PL1Q Vampire, the 3d printable quadcopter

by swepet, published

PL1Q Vampire, the 3d printable quadcopter by swepet Feb 14, 2012

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I have now uploaded a new version the PL2Q Hugin

Its a 3d printable quadcopter frame that i have designed, all parts is printable. See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLrN-lrLtUs


I have now uploaded a new version the PL2Q Hugin

Most parts should be backwards compatible with the PL1Q with some
modifications.. if you already printed a PL1Q and want to use the
stuff like the gopro camera mount etc..

Download, Print, Build, Fly!

But isn't a 3d printed arm to weak and will break in flight?
Answer here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwZ5aTlU0iY

new flight video:

---new 2012-02-29-----


I have added a optional 3cm taller canopy.
Also tried reducing bridging by 50%..

---new 2012-02-27-----


I have made a smaller canopy that should be printable on a makerbot,
i also changed the top a bit so there is no huge bridging any more.
Perhaps it is also printable upside down.. I also removed the screw
holes i think it will stick if you just push it on. If not, glue on small velcro strip on each side inside and fasten to the battery holding velcro..

Leave a comment if you have managed printing it on a makerbot or reprap

---older new----
I have now sliced it up to be able to print on makerbot or other
printers with smaller build area, i have not tried printing and
assembling the parts, please leave a comment if you have..
It is the files that have makerbot in their name...
Gluing would be required..and tape for the canopy..

If someone comes up with a better idea how to make the canopy on
a makerbot that would be great!

Presentation video:

I printed mine on a Ultimaker with PLA using skeinforge35. I used 100% infill on the motormounts and the arms. I used 40% on the rest. Use 100% on the landing gears if you intend to do hard landings..

Mine came out with the following weight:

motormount: 13.9g
Arm: 19.0g
Center: 42.3g
canopy: 25.7g
Landinggear: 32.0g

total 231.6g

I used a couple of drops CA (glue) to fasten the motormounts to the arms..
(not between the arms and the body, the canopy locks them in place there)

It might be a good idea to print it using a different color for the front arms etc, to be able to see the orientation of it when flying. I am going to fly mine mostly fpv..

What i think is a good cheap setup for it:
(i have not tested this setup myself, its just what i would have bought
if i didn't have parts laying around)

Motors: 4x A2208-17 1000KV

Esc: 4x TURNIGY Plush 12amp (2A BEC) BESC

Computer: MWC MultiWii Lite Lightweight Version 4-axis Flight Control Board QUADX

Propellers: GAUI 330X 8" Props G-210801

Prop adapter: 4x 3.175mm motor shaft 5mm prop hole

You will also need silicone wire for the motors, battery plugg, a receiver,a radio, a 3s lipo battery around 2200mAh (and a charger for it)..

I am working on fpv camera mounts for it, and gopro mount.. I post it when i am finished with them..

I also have several ideas for future revisions of the quad so stay tuned, esc placement, weight reduction and so on.. :-)

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Can I print it Whit a Anet A8?

What size PDB is on this copter

Wat is the crash durability??

How easy is it to fit components into this? Did you solder everything before putting it in or did you solder after putting everything in its place? This looks so cool, VERY well made!

How easy is it to fit components into this? Did you solder everything before putting it in or did you solder after putting everything in its place? This looks so cool, VERY well made!

I would just like to say that I am new to 3D printing and the quality of your designs is second to none. Thanks so much for making printing cool stuff so easy!

Good afternoon.
On the radio control, where an encounter for this model quadrotor ?

Hey, i'm gonna order the pieces to make a quadcopter and i'm looking to a chassis like this. I'm not sure if order a 1000kv motors or 1200kv... I read something on google about kv and how to calculate it but I don't know how this quadcopter will weigh at the end...can you give me some advice? Thank you and VERY NICE work!!

would you ever consider taking off those tabs on the body, my Printrbot Simple can print out all the parts except the body because of the tabs. it would be much appreciated!!!!!!
This is by FAR the nicest drone i have seen on thingiverse.

Comments deleted.

Hi, I was wondering how much it costed you to build this drone because I am pretty interested in making one thanks so much!!

Try out my arms for a change http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:724765 its a whole new beast!

Extended PLIQ Vampire arm
by ART00

Of course this design needs a mount for an engine. I am also looking for a mount that can hold a small camera. Any information about engines that fit onto a mount for this design. Do I need to check out later versions ?

Quadcopters do not have engines. They have 4 electric motors on each limb. Perhaps I misunderstood your question.

Where did you plaCe the esc's on this drone? And what are all the thigs you need besides the motors, esc, the board, and the battery? Do we need a receiver of some kind or does the board do that?

Hey, on the computer, you bought the computer at the same link provided in the description?
thank you

So I know the dome holds onto the arms, but how did you affix the motor
mounts inside the arms? Just friction? Mine slide out (they've been
sitting on a shelf for years) - don't want to have to glue them on since
I want to be able to disassemble it..

I like your quadcopter and your videos to mach, specially the Coca Cola hardness test

does the motor mount not heat up when in those cases?

hey i'm french and i am building a PLQ Vampire. But can ou say me wich motors i can use for it because the A2208-17 seems to be out of stock on http://goodluckbuy.comgoodluckbuy.com and i don't know wich motors can be mounted on the PL1Q. Thanks a lot.

hey, am i the only one that the motor holes doesn't fit with the motor mount holes, when i pass the wires trough the arm and i place the motor inside, the holes are not aligned, there is 2 holes with more space than 2 others. Because of the wires, it can only fit in one way. Any trick will fix this? or i need another design with the holes inverted. Btw i got the same motors in the instructions http://goodluckbuy.com/a2208-17-1000kv-outrunner-brushless-motor-for-rc-helicopter-multicopter-4-pack.htmlgoodluckbuy.com/a2208-17-1000k...


There seems to be a lot of 3D printed quadcopters about, has anyone tried or considered attaching a printer to a quadcopter?
It could be a great way to deliver prints on demand.

A few artists are already doing something similar at Burning man.


I was thinking about it the other day and if the quadcopter was precise enough it could be able to hover over the build area and fly a tiny bit higher for each layer, it would just have to drop down a heated build platform.

Does anyone know if this is just pure fantasy or is it a possible reality?

I havnt the know how, experience or printer to do it myself, it was just a daydream.

Would it require too much lift for just a quad copter, would it have to have 8 or 12 propellers instead?

I'm hoping to have a printer sometime early next year and a printed Arduino quadcopter was going to be one of my first projects.

Would anyone be interested in collaborating with me on this project if I attempted to stick all of or parts of a printer on to a quadcopter?

I mean, it's possible but completely improbable. With all of the factors involved in flight, and the limited battery life, it would be impractical to put a print bed on a quadcopter. With all of the precision in today's machines, and the small size of some of them, there is no need for a flying quadcopter 3d printer.

if the flight times to high the battery will die what would they do about that

Please contact me at [email protected] if you are able to print this for my project at school. This Quad is way better than the one the class is building I wanna blow their sox off!

thnx I dont mind paying for parts/labor/shipping


I watched the vids with the PL2Q in it. I can't wait for the new design and the gopro mounts to be published. Moving the ESCs out by the motors is really great.

I'm keen on having a crack at this. Do you have a suggested links for suitable propellers and prop adaptors from either hobbyking or goodluckbuy in order to minimize the number of separate orders needed?

Sorry i cant find any on hobbyking, and not on goodluckbuy either.. Also the last time i ordered from goodluckbuy they sent wrong items, 1200kv motors instead of 1000kv, but i think that will also work.. But so you know you need a bit of luck to get the parts you order from goodluckbuy ! but they are cheap ! he he

Saw the new motor mounts in the youtube vid.. That's an improvement.. As I am rebuilding and thus reprinting .. could you share the mounts?? I think this solves my problems with not enough room under the hood :-)

This looks like a great project! Any idea of the payload capacity with your recommended configuration?

I say stay below 400 grams of payload on this size quad (thats about a 2200mAh 3s battery and a gopro like camera). I think it can take the double but then it will not fly very good, and its not good for the electronics and motors to be pushed to the limit.

I have put a adapter plate for the HK board to set in X-Mode at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18251http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... ..

But the HK boards and the KK board have there yawn sensor as a stand..
This makes the cover to low.. I need more clearance in the cover ..

Any sketchup guru that can make it 5 cm higher ? (my esc's are too big to put in the space of the cross :-(

Thanks in advance..:-)

HK/KK Quadboard adapter ring for PL1Q
by mhensen

3cm higher should do fine BTW.. 5cm would be overkill!

Hi i can change the height if you want, is 5 cm necessarily or do i go with 3 cm ? But you don't need to change the KK orientation, if you have a radio with delta mixer, you can just turn your quad from + to x in the radio, no need to change the board ! Let me know if you still want a taller canopy and if so how high..

Thanks.. even without changing the orientation I can't fit it all under the current canopy .. so if 3cm is possible I would be grateful!!

Thanks in advance and thanks for all the support you bring to this project!

Hello, i have now made the canopy 3cm taller.


I also thought out a way to reduce bridging by 50% on the top, please let me know how it turns out. It is very nice that people like what i draw! Have a nice day !

Printed out great, and although I haven't fitted it yet, it should fit..

And the bridging reduction seems to be working ok.. not 100% but better then on the other one?

Thanks again!

Any update on the gopro mount? Thanks!

Nope, not yet sorry. I been working on more elementary designs first. I have made motormounts with esc intergration, that way the arms with esc will be easy removable, so it would be possible to use the same arms/motor/esc in different configurations, like this normal quad or when you want to fly with gopro, just move your arms to an other centerpiece that is a gopro mount :-) or in hexa cunfig etc,, There will be a gopro mount, because i want that to !! But i don't know when yet!

The motors in the four pack cost around $40, yet on the youtube video, you claim to have spent almost $150! Which one is the real value?

You will NOT be able to fly with motors alone! The other parts, propellers and speedcontrollers etc are requred to be able to fly. So total cost is more then just the motors! So you will spend at least about $150, more if you don't have radio etc, look at the other comments for more detailed info..

That's what I thought, I was just wondering if I had messed up before I ordered. Well done!

I did order the 1000kV motors from goodluckbuy, but they sent me 1200kV motors instead, goodluckbuy is cheap, but you will need to have luck to get the correct items :-) But 1200kV will also work i think i haven't tried yet. The motors i have in mine now are 1500kV and they do work, but it is to much i think.. Hope you be flying soon !

Hi there! Nice work. I love the concept. However I have a few questions since I couldn't find the information myself throughout the comments: Do you have a tutorial on how to build and configure this interesting device? What was, approximately, the total cost of the parts?

Thank you! And keep up the great work. :-D

No tutorials yet, but on how to connect and configure have a look att http://multiwii.commultiwii.com lots of nice info there.. And the cost, I say about $130 and that for motors ($40), esc ($40), and controller($50)... And then if you don't already have it you would also need a radio that's about $60 for a turnigy 9x (thats
 what i have, awesome radio because you can hack the firmware).. And you would need a lipo battery about $20, and a lipo charger + power supply, about $30.. Total about: $240

What receiver (4 channel?) and radio (transmitter) do you use? Sorry I'm new to quadcopter building and want to make sure I get the right parts :)

My favorite radio is Turnigy 9x, and it is also very cheap just $60 from hobbyking. The nice thing with that radio is that you are able to hack it with custom firmware (if you like, not requred). It also can take plugin modules (not requried, but i like the frsky system with telemetry), i have frsky modules on mine. You can get a combopack, frsky module + one receiver for about $55.. The nice thing with that receiver is you are able to change the firmware in it so that you only need one cable between the receiver and the flight controller. (normally you need one for every channel)..

Has anyone had luck finding that radio in stock? The only places I can seem to find one are at around $120 (with 4 week shipping added in). Alternatively would you suggest a different radio? I
’m not even really certain what I’ll need in an alternate.

My experience with hobbyking is that you have to put in an order even if the item is not in stock or you will never get one. Any radio with 4-chanel or more will work. If you are thinking of getting into the rc hobby, perhaps a dx6i is a good radio for you, because then you can get a lot of bind-n-fly planes and stuff that works with that radio. If you just want to fly the quad, hobbyking have a $23 radio that i think will be just fine, http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9042__Hobby_King_2_4Ghz_6Ch_Tx_Rx_V2_Mode_2_.htmlhttp://www.hobbyking.com/hobby...

You should get a mode2 radio i think, that's the most common used.. (it is what stick is trottle etc, google for more info)

Alright I think I
’m just convinced to hop on the waitlist for one of these. Ordinarily I’m skeptical of companies that want me to wait more than the dispute time on my credit card before shipping my stuff but if other people say they’re legit.

That’s one of the other things I wasn’t really clear on. I w
as doing some light reading on RC multicopters and was told the rule of thumb was (number of rotors +2) for required RC channels. I wasn’t really clear on why. Something about hover assist toggle and something else…? I’ve done plenty of robotics work but never anything using RC controls. Y
ou’re saying this will only need 4 though?

I think hobbyking is just fine. I have ordered more then 30 times from them, more then $1000 in total, only once i have received a broken part, a battery that had a dead cell. However, if something is broken, they require you to send it back for refund, but shipping (you will have to pay for it) back to china is almost more expensive then the item so not wort it. But for the prices they have i think it is worth the risk. But they are so popular now so they are not able to keep production up on some stuff i think so therefore you must put in a backorder to get some of the stuff..

4-channel is the minimum you need to fly a quad. However, more is better. If you have more then 4-channels you can turn autolevel on and off without needing to connect to a computer, camera stabilization on and off etc.. So you will only need 4-channel but more is better. Also if you ever thinking
of doing more rc stuff, i say go with a better radio from the begging. And personally my favorite radio is the turnigy 9x (even that i have used other expensive brandname radios).. Also make sure you get a mode2 radio,,,

Just printing now but have come across a problem with your edited arm, doesnt fit, there too big to slide together and with the body, I used your original but just took yours tabs off it and it now fits my print bed. Thanks for your design!!

You mean the two arm pieces doesn't fit together? It should only be 0,1mm extra so it might be very tight, have you tried sanding it down a bit? Perhaps this lying down arm is better if your build area supports it.. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17803http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Also you might need to carve some on the bottom layer, tends to float out a little bit.. Hope it helped !

PL1Q Vampire Arm

Thanks swepet, what I did was knocked the size down by .5mm. it fits now but is very tight even after giving it a sanding, also with the legs I pushed them in so their 125mm from corner to corner to fit on my print bed.

How are you going with your gopro mount? I just can get rid of the vibrations, got any ideas?

Great design, once i get proficient on the mendel, this is first on the list. Thanks


Looking to do some UAV research myself... This frame will looks very nice and will most likely use it for the body!

Have you looked at ardupilot ? They have released the APM 2, sensors, gps everything on a single small board for just $200, i am getting one to the summer :)

Just read about it now. It seems like a pretty good package, saves the sourcing of all the IMUs and everything. Most importantly fitting everything elegantly on one board!

I like the design, I thnink I can cheap out on the hardware a bit though and still have a useable copter. Gonna try it out and if I get good relults ill post

I think it might be possible to cheap out a bit more.. I have tried choosing the cheapest parts available.. One thing you can get cheaper is the control board, i think you can get a kk board for about $20 instead of the one i link to. But then you won't get the autolevel function, and if you are a beginner i do recommend that! Without autolevel is more like flying a normal rc heli, you will need to keep the balance yourself..

Great design. I'm going to use the center piece and modify it some, removing the legs (I've got the legs on my motor mounts, as they are usually the first thing to hit ;) ) and making the canopy more round and mounting a camera in it.

I'm also using carbon fiber tubes for the arms. I've got it printed out the way it is right now and i am hoping to have it flying next week

Nice ! Before i had an idea that i would print out a mold of a quad, top and bottom with arms attach to the center, and then make a quad entirely in carbon fiber. But then i would have to build a vacuum system and stuff first and there are not enough hours in a day.. Hope to follow your project !

Needs printable propellers...

And printable eye protection. There are huge forces in props in these size flying machines. But it would be cool for proof of concept, that might be something that needs to be put to the test.

true, small high kV props would spin themselves apart. But you might be able to print (or mill) a mold for them an vacuform them in petG. Or some kind of fiber laminate like carbon or carbon/kevlar... You would need a good way of cutting them out of the sheet though.

Printed everything out for this yesterday, hope to source parts soon.

I was thinking of making the legs taller to make room for mounting more hardware underneath the copter, and maybe add a leg design like http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4771http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... (although the current design seems fairly springy)


Nice ! Did the pieces fit together good for you ? You are right i think the legs might need a tweak if a larger payload should be attached. For standard flying i like to keep it simple. I am now working on a ccd cam mount for fpv but after that i will make a gopro mount, and for that the legs perhaps need to be a bit taller..

All the parts fit together well, although the canopy did not print well with the slicer settings used, so I'll try to reslice it with different settings.

I'm also looking at maybe using 10" props, which look like they would be nearing the limit of this current design.

If you printer have enough z height, it would be pretty simple to change the arms to custom length. Download the sketchup file, and open in sketchup (free) and just use the extrude tool on the top of the arm and also the same amount on the top slot of the arm.. And then export to stl, (i use this plugin http://brettbeauregard.com/blog/2011/06/sketchup-to-stl-plugin-with-no-dialogs/http://brettbeauregard.com/blo... ) I think even someone that have never used sketchup, would be able to do this in a couple of minutes after just some googling around for sketchup basics..

One other question: why a non-commercial license? This stops anyone from being able to print a set of parts and sell them to someone else that is interested in the design, but does not have a 3D printer. One of the things that has kept this hobby up for me is being able to sell random parts from time to time to buy more things for this hobby. I imagine quite a few others are doing the same.

I somewhat understand if you were planning on selling them yourself and didn't want others to push in and take up the demand you would get for your time. However, then it would seem best to have the design ready to sell when unleashing it on Thingiverse. This site is easily becoming a quickie mark
eting tool but the interest comes and goes pretty fast.

Just my $1.35 and wondering why many people select non-commercial for their uploads.

It do not stop people from printing out and selling, if they have permission from the author. In the license there is a text "Waiver
— Any of the above conditions can be waived if you get permission from the copyright holder.". And if people with printers contact me for permission to sell i be happy to give it to them, and perhaps say please consider a donation to my paypal if you make money of my design. And if a large company
contact me and want to mass produce i will say, sure but lets make a deal. That was my thought when i choose the license i did. Hope that answered your question, and showed my point of view on it.

Just so you are aware, the non-commercial part of the license does not do what you think. It ONLY prevents the selling/commercial display of the files. If so inclined, it can be mass produced by anyone and sold for profit.

The only real way to prevent people from selling the physical copies is if you had a patent.

I personally prefer just to do away with the non-commercial thing altogether and just request you ask permission if you plan on selling parts, since there is no real way of stopping it.

Then i see no point in changing it since it would make no difference anyway. I will try to prevent people from selling it as much is i will try to prevent water from being wet. I only hope for people to contact me before they do, that's all i ask. If you don't like that thingiverse have that license as a choice then take it up with them..

My last comment was a response to Guest

Surely they could not use his files to do so? Or? Please enlighten me.

They could make the design themselves. What about the files that are taken off here due to copyright infringement? (I'm just asking... though I understand the most solid protection is a design patent in the US or a registered design in other countries, though it would only protect you in the count
ries you have the patent.)

I think we accept the possibility for an NC-license if the designer wishes it, at least protecting the files themselves (though not the concept). I think Thingiverse probably should add some sort of micro-payment feature also, to make the truly great designers here be ab
le to get something back.

Think of it this way:

Design files are like how-to books. If the book is copyrighted, I can not copy the book outright, nor edit the book and create similar copies. However, I can still use the knowledge within the book to create whatever the subject was (model train, rocket, laser, whatever)

You can limit who is all
owed to copy and modify the files, but you have ZERO legal control over the "knowledge" contained within and what the user (or printer) does with that, unless you have the patent for the physical object.

The exceptions are for things like logos and designs that have no useful purpose and are consi
dered "art/expression" (penrose triangle, war gaming minis, etc)

wow this is awesome! I have never seen these before. I am strongly considering building one. perhaps you could put a instructable or tutorial together for people who know nothing about these to get started. Judging by the prices of these things in a google search this is an affordable way to get into the hobby.

I might do that when i get some more free time. It might actually be a very nice place to start with rc. You can fly in small places. With autolevel activated you do not need to keep the "balance" as you do with a normal rc heli. Parts are cheap, and the reason the motormounts looks like they do is to protect the motors incase of crashes..

I suspect you will have problems with your motors overheating based on the way you have them enclosed. Should be interesting to see how it holds up.

The reason i designed the mounts that way is to save them, on my other quad i have bent the shafts in a lot of expensive motors the times the gravity won. I did some calculations, my quad consumes about 120w while in a hover, that is 30 watt per motor, if the cheap motors are 80% efficient then there is 6watt of heat generated in each motor, and i hope there is enough airflow on the top of the motors to remove that heat. But i am not sure, for now i have just flown it in -10c.. The next quad i build might be different (and uglier), with the esc in the propwash etc

For the X shaped connecty bits, I've seen some people use metal arrow shafts. That may cut down on weight, but it'll definitely add strength.

:-( Really like the design .. But 14 Cm in Z is just a bit too high for me..

Can the arm be redesigned in 2 parts to click together?

I now have split them in two parts, let me know how it works if you try printing it...

Superb.. I will give it a go today!!!! Thanks a lot!

Please give a report on how it went !

I printed the makerbot version of the arms today on my prusa with only 100mm Z height. They printed nice and worked great except the first pair I tried to put together ended up cracking the external part of where they fit together. I was much more careful with the second arm and with little xacto knife and sandpaper was able to make them fit. So be forwarded!!! do not try to force them together fresh off the printer . Yo will need to sand and xacto cut in order to fit them together without breakage.



foxdewayne have made a lying down arm, that might be a better choice on a height limited printer, rather then having two connecting pieces...

PL1Q Vampire Arm

Awesome design!

I am determined to try this with an aeroquad mini board!

I wonder if it could be sized to print on a makerbot?

I have now sliced it down to makerbot size, let me know how it works if you try printing it..

Great work on the design. I look forward to seeing how this evolves. I have started printing the makerbot version and have found a problem with ...body_makerbot.stl. The overlaps on the outside square don't go together correctly. The need to be brought in about 5mm each.

Sorry about that, it should be fixed now... In the next quad i will try making it more makerbot friendly from the beginning, thinking of having the body in multiple parts, a top and bottom that is identical, and then have arm mounts sandwiched between them.. But for now, i also think the makerbot canopy would be difficult and need to be taped together, i have no good solution to that.. Hopefully someone figures it out.. (it can fly anyway, just the arms need to be glued/taped on)

Your new body now comes together perfectly. Thanks for the updates.

Now i also have put up a canopy that should be withing makerbot tom size..

Hi, great design!

I'm new to thingiverse.

I see a lot of designs here, like yours, that need motors or other ready-made parts.

Wouldn't it be neat to have a kind of catalog of mount plans, like you motor mounts, for most common ready-made components: motors, fans, cameras etc..
So it can be included in people designs.

I'm sure that with some lobbying we can even have them made by components sellers....

There are already a few motor mount on thingiverse. For more "standard" parts to build your own quad etc, there are already stores that sells that kind of stuff, mostly in aluminium. Search for multirotor on http://goodluckbuy.comgoodluckbuy.com for example.

This is awesome! I printed my own parts for a quadcopter that I've flown, but it doesn't look near as cool as that. I use square aluminum tubing, it ends up being excessivly strong and heavier than I'd like. It flies well though.

Sweet! I'm in the beginning stages of building my own quad with printed parts.

How have the arms dealt with crashes and bumps? I'm planning on using aluminum arms because I was worried printed ones would not be strong enough.

When i started the design i thought i would use fiberglass arms, but i didn't have any. So i started experimenting with printing arms. And this arm if printed correct you are not able to break by hand, and it do not bend or flex. And if you would crash hard and manage to break it, you don't need to order a new one, just go home and print one out.. :-D

The canopy is almost unprintable. It just makes a huge mess when it tries to print that huge overhand on top, spagetti central.

I alretered the canopy to be a tad thicker and added some support tubes in the middle so the flat top part has something to print on top of instead of aiur. Then you break off the rods when your done. I also have to add some semicircle flat parts on the bottom of each 4 bottom parts in order for t
he whole thing to stick during the entree print. otherwise one or two of the sides would come unstuck from the best before they get bridged together.

Here is the nbew model currently printing the canopy :


and here is a gallery of the rest of my parts so far


including the assembled arms and center:


and with a plastic dome instead of the canopy:


I also have a large surplus of ESC's motors and flight controllers including multiple s
tyle of multiwii platform, KK boards, a few open pilot boards, some DJI Naza boards and one DJI wooing M. If anyone want a complete set of electronics, motors, wiring and props for one of these copters get in touch with me and I'll hook you up for cost.

ezmobius @ gmail . come

Nice wor
k on this quad man, loving it. I've built about 25 quads of my own now including a few 3d printed nano quads and I have parts to build at least 50 more so if folks want some cheap p[arts to finish on of these copters let me know and I will hook you up for cost plus shipping.

How were you able to print this at 140mm on your reprap?

He (swepet) prints with an Ultimaker, can print in Z direction up to 220 mm

I scaled up my home made Mendel to 210x210x180mm (X,Y,Z) just to print some bigger things.


Yes i have an ultimaker with 21x21x21 buildsize. But imagine a future where size doesn't matter. Where we all can live in peace and harmony and fly away together in the sunset with our quads... That's the future i am working on.. :-)


I have put up a new canopy now that should be printable on a makerbot tom size build area..

The domeified one looks very sweet ! And you would be able to see the leds.. Nice work! For the next quad i draw, i will try making a better canopy with less extreme open spaces.. Perhaps something with a window.. I like that you post pictures, awesome !