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tibuck

cd rom stepper motor linear rail system

by tibuck Sep 11, 2016
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Great work, dude!! <3 This may solve my problems with a dual extruder head for my 3D printer. One fixed extruder and a moving one (like Ultimaker 3).

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Another possibility (than mouldable epoxy) for the lead 'nut' is to use low-temperature mouldable plastic copolymer. (one of my favourite DIY materials) Look at https://www.jaycar.com.au/polymorph-pellets/p/NP4260 Use some sort of precautions (oil, detergent, silicone-spray) to stop it sticking to the lead-screw as it hardens though. It goes hard fast, within tens of seconds, but if you don't like it, just melt it in boiled-water and try again! "It hardens at room temperature to form a tough plastic material similar in consistency and colour to Nylon" and it is quite slippery.
BTW, I haven't actually tried this, so maybe I speak too soon...

There is no bad idea, Whatever works and gets the job done. That Polymorph is a medium I have been wanting to try out for while for its usefulness in the shop. Good suggestion

No worries tibuck.
I did try the polymorph and it works well.

Looks Like a Nifty Design!!! I got several "unusable" CD/DVD drives lying around that I could do this with! Just a Quick Mention, I believe that when using the Mo(u)ldable Marine/Plumbing Epoxy that prior to contacting the screw shaft with the epoxy that you could spray the shaft with some mo(u)ld release such as a Silicone spray that dries to a slick finish! I know it's available because I used it on the top surface of my wood table saw! and mind you, I believe, just to clarify for the paperclip is to only act as a "keeper" so the screw guide doesn't bounce up off the shaft!...am I correct in stating this??? Something else that could be done might be to wrap the paperclip into the grooves of the shaft for the length of the holder and then affix the wrapped paper clip at either end to the guide housing....the clip shouldn't be tight on the shaft but should spring back just enough to allow it to travel in the groove...can then be lubricate with a silicone or a graphite grease if necessary. Just my 2 cents worth!!!

I'm going to share something that may be obvious to everyone else, but that I learned for myself.

DO NOT ALLOW THE LEAD SCREW TO TOUCH THE EPOXY PUTTY WHILE IT CURES!

I ignorantly assumed the smooth surface of the lead screw would keep it from bonding to the to the epoxy putty. I even installed the paper clip to maintain pressure between the lead screw and the epoxy putty. I bent the lead screw drying to get it to release form the putty. I have to assume everyone else just pressed it against the lead screw long enough to form the putty and then released it as it cured.

Also, the specifics of the epoxy were not provided so I will share what I used.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/J-B-Weld-2-oz-SteelStik-8267/300136541

Hey, can you explain in a little more detail what you're doing with the paper clip?I see a hole it could be inserted to, but not sure how it's supposed to push against the lead screw, though I understand it's supposed to act like a spring.

hi Wayne, the paper clip goes under the lead screw to help the grip for the epoxy lead if not for the paper clip the top part would just be skipping over the threads as the motor spins.

Hi tibuck, thanks for your quick response. Is it the paper clip itself or just a small 10-15 mm section of it? I may be brain dead but I don't see how to position it to put pressure against the screw.

Hi - this looks great - can you provide some insight on how you are controlling this stepper motor? Type of driver? Limits?

Thanks

I run them with both a uno with a cnc shield V3, and on Ramps 1.4 both using 4988 stepper drivers, they are normally 5V motors with a 18 degree step angle, you can use the prusa calculator to do the math for your projects. as for limits or end stops anything will work including two thin brass plate with a small space between them that make a connection when they are pushed together. just be mindful they are fast , you will need to use a slow feed rate. when I have time I will make a 2 Axis X,Y version.

Mounting holes for the screws a too big, I would make them a little smaller, you can always drill them bigger if needed.

Use, Cd rom slide body v3 2mm holes stl file. Let me know if that works better for you.

I an and I will this evening . Thank you

Cool, I was trying to work out how to connect one to an mgn12.

what a mgn 12 ? a linear railing ?

12mm linear rail bearing block.
Sorry, I often get confused with the codes for the rails and the blocks.

so would you need me to make a mount for it ? if you make a little hand drawing of how you like to connect it and how it would be use I could perhaps make something to help you out.

How do you prevent the piece on top from bouncing off the lead screw? Whats the tiny whole in the same part on the bottom for?

the tiny hole is so you can insert a cut piece of a paper clip to hold the lead screw.

Very cool. Excellent use of spare CDROMs

yes indeed , I have a few more coming soon for all the different size steppers that is found in old CD and DVD roms.

Nice. I will be watching for these.

For the epoxy, did you use something like surgu?

looks nice, but i have to ask: why didn't you print the counterpart to the screw, too?

what do you mean ? A way to attach it to something ? or a printed thread?

I mean the slider nut. you use epoxy for it. why not just printing it?

The lead screw threads are too small to properly print, I tried more then once. I event went as far as to heat the lead screw and try melting the threads on printed parts, A resin printer would be able to pull it off im sure, but most of us don't have one. This way works Finally loll, and another plus side to using the Epoxy putty, is that, not all lead screws found in recycled cd or dvd roms are exactly the same thread patterns. I took apart 15 or so cd roms and thus far have 4 sets of different threads, So the molding process makes it a one part fits all so to speak. hope that answers it for you , If you make something with them or need to have the nut modified to attach to something, feel free to ask. the nut slider is very basic and my goal was to keep same base and add to it for projects needs.

Hi! Do you happen have a model of the threads sitting around? I haven't been able to find pitch/diameter stats on those screws. I might be getting a resin printer soon.

Good evening, No i have, however it is a good idea, I might just have to Model that when i have some free time, I also print with resin but never thought about this thing. Thank you for the input, I ll let you know when i do get around to modeling it.