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EMR

Saitek X-55/56 Cyclic mod

by EMR Sep 13, 2016
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I can't seem to get my x56 stick to stay attached to the top adapter. The threads seem to engage, howeve I can just rock the stick off. I'm not sure the tolerences are correct for the x56. The bottom attaches perfectly which makes me think it isnt a thread issue but a gap or something in the mounting area that alows the wobble and disconnect to ocur.

Do you by chance have the blueprint for the normal coupler? Both the locking bezel and locking clamp? Mine unfortunately broke at the threads. :(

This would be my first time having something 3d printed and was hoping to get some advice. The sites I've been looking at highlight some issues with the support and wall thicknesses with FDM but seem much happier with SLS. Of the SLS options I'm leaning toward nylon 12 standard w/wo CF. Would this be acceptable to get decent wear/usage? The carbon filled nylon seems to exhibit much conductivity and imagine this is not ideal. I really appreciate any guidance you can give.

Hey,

I'm not familiar with the SLS process. But i'm sure it would be better. In regards to the conductivity I would try find some information on the conductivity of the material you'll be using. It doesn't seem to be included in the spec sheets for the products I looked up thou. It would also be dependant ot the percentage of carbon in the material. But as the signals are such a low voltage I don't see it will be a problem.

Another note, as this part was designed for FDM there might be tollerance issues (probably more on the loose side) with using SLS. YOu'd just have to test it.

Hi! I was looking for a project with files to extend my X56. The pins look the same and I hope that the thread will also be identical. I am a little confused about one thing, though: How often will I need to print the 3 main parts?

Hey,
I guess it would depend on what you print it in, how good your layer adhesion is and if the thread prints well. The thread was created from measurements of an x55. Not sure if the x56 is the same.

Thanks for the quick reply. I think worded my question in a confusing way: How often do I need to print the "Cyclic_shaftfittings-_Internal_Pin_Holder"-part? My guess is: 2 times. Correct?

And how would I take measurements of the thread on my X56? Could you give me some suggestions on how to do that easily and quickly?

Yes two are required.

There's two main ways, ruler/calipers and thread pitch gauge:
https://www.hunker.com/12311270/how-to-measure-bolt-thread-size

The tricky part is to then translate that into a thread in your CAD program (And ultimately the printed product). But there should be many youtube vids on how to do that :)

Wow! Thanks for the links and infos. That IS a rabbit hole! Quite interestimg, but I hope I'll not have to go in that deep... :-)

So I had the 4 parts printed and preliminary fitting shows that the upper connector seems to fit onto the X56 joystick. Yay! Will have to test more before I can definitely confirm it.

However the bottom part is problematic: I had the .STL printed and it came back as a solid block. I am scratching my head, trying to figure out how to make the "ring" mobile. Any suggestions on that? How did you solve that problem?

I can't remember the exact details but i had supports printed up in the threaded part and between the tightening ring and the body. I removed all that and held the body (I can't remember what with) and twisted the ring until it cracked free. You probably have nothing to lose in trying. Is there any evidence of support material being removed around the ring?

Not sure the support settings or tolerance of the printer they used. You could try edit the file so there is more space between the ring and where it's meant to spin in.

Hello again! I tried everything and it seems that the parts fit the X56 perfectly! IMHO you can change the project title to x55/x56. :-)

That's great feedback. Will do, cheers :)

nice work, when I get the time I am going to try and do a leftie conversion for the x55, and this will get me off to a good start, by the way it may be worth a try to fill the pipe with sand and seal the ends with tape before heating it up to bend it

Excellent work! I found that the inner diameter of each piece fits 3/4" PVC pipe perfectly.

I ended up destroying my first set - the male threads on the top have begun to separate and it looks more like a spring coil than a threaded shaft. Any tips on preventing the threads from self destructing? My first print was in PLA, now I've ordered a set in ABS.

For those who don't want to order and wait for the pins from Hong Kong, I was able to make these work on the bottom with copious amounts of glue on the backside:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q8JILQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And for the top, I used basic finishing nails from the hardware store. I enlarged each hole slightly so the nails would sink down and sit flush with the surface. Everything works 100% electrically.

Here is my mock-up. Ultimately I will add a couple of PVC 45 degree joints for proper placement. I'm also using RJ-45 connectors in the middle while I work out the lengths.

Nice :)

I haven't done any long term durability tests so it's interesting it's a failure point. Not ruling out the design is an issue but maybe you've got poor layer adhesion, z layers not close enough, temperature settings? But looking at the base of the threads it seems to be pretty solid..

The ones I've made were from PLA also. I was worried about voltage drop but doesn't seem to be an issue, it's just the matter of making solid contact.

Thanks for the feedback.

Thanks a lot for this, I was literally about to start this very project but I thought I 'd check here first.

Glad it could be of use to you. Let me know if you need the files in a diff format or whatever. Be good to see where you take it. I have since played with it a little to allow for smaller sized conduit but nothing major. Getting the pins to make a proper contact seemed to be the major challenge.

Please upload as a remix once your done so I can see your work :)

Great, thanks.

If you have all the parts in a CAD format like IGES, STEP or Parasolid that would help if I need to make some tweaks.

Managed to source very similar gold pins here in the UK, and some others that looked like the ones you were thinking of for the contact side.

PVC pipe is pretty limited here, I may end up using corner pieces rather than bending.

I'll share everything once I make some progress!

I have added STEP files exported from OnShape. They offer all those formats, not sure which is best.

Goodluck :)

the female thread its fixed to the core, what's the problem i have? or any tip for the build

Hey rafaymonchito,

I assume you mean the threaded ring that's meant to spin freely? It may be a tolerance issue. I had to pick away some of the support material above and also inside the threaded area before it would break free and spin.

i need to come back to this project and actually finish/refine it :)

ok thanks, yes its a tolerance problem

Hello
Hi

Nice project.

I found the male pin.

but for females what did you use?

regards

Sebastian

Hey Seb,
This initial design just used the same pin (in the description) for both ends as a proof of concept. I have since received another type but need to re-design the pin holder etc. I plan to use these pins "backwards" to utilise the flat surface as the contact: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/291614774789
I should get back into this project soon as I also have some smaller diameter pvc to test.

Filling the pipe with sand when bending might help with your deformation issues.

Hey, thanks for the tip. I might give it a go, but I suspect I will go down the path of modifying it to allow different PVC sizes anyway. I also only had a small torch to heat the area up, ending up in a lot of burning of the pvc. I suspect a proper heat gun would help.