Guy-Manuel de Homem-Christo Daft Punk Helmet with Programmable LED Lighting

by KingHelps, published

Guy-Manuel de Homem-Christo Daft Punk Helmet with Programmable LED Lighting by KingHelps Nov 4, 2013


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A Guy-Manuel Daft Punk helmet split into pieces printable on a Prusa i3. Adapted from a model from Ivan Spasic's blog.

Goes well with the gloves: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:177614

Assembly: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GpiyT2DBLSM

Ivan's Original Model: http://cad-unigraphics-projects.blogspot.co.uk/2011/08/daft-punk-helmet-design-tutorial.html


Original instructions: http://projecttimbo.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/daft-punk-helmet.html

Detailed instructions: http://www.instructables.com/id/Guy-Manuel-Daft-Punk-Helmet-with-Programmable-LED-/

Print one of each the following:


Join with M3 nuts and bolts and plenty of hot-melt glue. Add car body filler, sand extensively, paint gold.

To make the visor, either use VisorMould.stl and a CNC mill to cut a wooden mould, or if you don't have access to a CNC mill like me, use the sliced mould files to cut slices of 6 mm MDF, align with 6 mm dowel and glue together, then sand to make a smooth mould. Vacuum form some thin PETG over the mould, and tint the inside surface with VHT Niteshades.

If you want the helmet with lighting, print the diffusers with translucent filament.


You can use LEDBank.stl to mount LEDs and hot melt glue them to the diffusers.

I used an Arduino to control the lights (see FullControl.ino) and 8 AA batteries for power. If you're doing the same, you can use Case.stl and Caselid.stl to hold the electronics.

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is this model to scale

Hi yes it is to scale but my head is quite small!

The circumference of my head is 55 cm, and the helmet fits pretty snugly. You may have to resize it depending upon the size of your head.

The model is in mm.

Amazing, congratulations!

Is there anyway you can possible upload a file for the visor itself? I dont have enough time to get the petg molded. Please!!!

Hi, I have uploaded an .stl of the visor from my CAD model.


I need mine for Halloween... We have the same problem.

wow he asked the same thing ten minutes ago

Looks good. The visor is 2 mm thick in my base model, however I actually used 0.5 mm thick PETG in the real helmet. Let me know how printing the visor goes.

Is it possible for you to post a printable file of the visor? I would like to print it in clear PLA and paint it black. If you cant, how much would a clear vacuum formed visor cost?

Hi, I have uploaded an .stl of the visor from my CAD model.


Hi all, detailed instructions for the Guy-Manuel Daft Punk Helmet are now available in the form of an Instructable here: http://www.instructables.com/id/Guy-Manuel-Daft-Punk-Helmet-with-Programmable-LED-/

I've also entered it into the Instructables 3D Printing Contest and I'd love it if you'd vote for me here: http://www.instructables.com/contest/3dprintingcontestxxl/

Would It be too much of me to ask for a purchase guide for the LED parts? I really want to make this but im new to arduino and its wiring. Pretty good with electronics, just need somewhere to start.....

Hi, you can find detailed instructions and circuit diagrams on the blog post which is linked to in the instructions. You'll need an Arduino Uno, an 8 AA battery pack, 6 2N2222 transistors and 6 of each colour 5 mm LED you want to use (36 LEDs total). I got most of the parts from eBay.

FYI I still have a mold for this I have no idea what to do with. I was going to make some castings and sell them to offset its cost but I don't have the equipment for that anymore.

Yeah I held onto my mould for a while but now have either chucked it or put it into storage... If anyone is making a helmet and lives in PA, perhaps they could use your mold? Spread the word.

You designed this in Sketchup? God bless you.

Hahaha, yeah it was a bit fiddly! Thankfully I had a very good starting point: a great model from Ivan Spasic's blog (details on the info page).

I've made a mold and did a successful pull for the visor (after some advice, I ended up going with a ABS print of a negative of the visor).

Though, i think i may have ruined it with the tinting spray. Its very blotchy and inconsistent. Did you do anything special to get that nice even look that you have in your pictures?

Oh nice one, I had to make mine out of wood. Well firstly have you treated the ABS negative to make it super smooth so the visor is super smooth? I believe you can use acetone to smooth ABS parts (though I haven't any experience with this myself).

Regarding the tinting, I used VHT Niteshades on the inside of the visor. Make sure you do the tinting in a well ventilated and dust free area so dust doesn't get stuck to the wet paint. You'll want to spray from as far away as possible so that the spray is a very fine mist and do very thin layers, applying a new layer after the old one dries. I believe I did about three layers over the course of an hour or so, did mine in the garden. It is slightly blotchy on the inside when wearing it but doesn't get in the way of seeing out.

Ah interesting. Yea i did the recommended 10 inches away with the VHT Niteshades, and it was definitely blotchy. Also did only one pass (was worried about making it too hard to see through at night).

The mold came out pretty well. I did do some acetone smoothing for the grunt work (though it was too large to fit in my vapor bath), and a ton of sanding. There weren't any small level bumps mm sized bumps, but there were some larger cm sized subtle discontinuities (the two halves didn't quite line up, and sanding didn't quite take care of it). I have to do another pull anyway (i botched the removal of the unnecessary areas), and it should be a little cleaner this time. I'll include some pictures when im done with everything.

One last question (or two). How did you adhear the the visor to the helmet (was going to use hot glue, but though it might look bad and be weak) and how did you keep the whole thing positioned properly on your head?

Yeah I think it's going to tricky to see at night anyway, mine is. Regarding the sanding, I'd take the time to sand and smooth the mould as much as possible, it'll be nicer in the long run.

I attached the visor with hot melt yeah, you should be able to put hot melt on the inside of the lip and attach the visor without the hot melt being visible. It's certainly strong enough since the visor's not under any stress. I added some sticky foam to the inside of the helmet so it fitted snugly on my head (search for "Self-Adhesive Foam Roll").

Well i know what im doing for Halloween. Good work.

The Print and the LEDs are well within my powers (need to check the sizing on those parts in my build area though)... however i dont have easy access to a cnc, lasercutter (which was a clever workaround btw) or vacuum former. I dont suppose you've, in hindsight, have come up with an easier solution for the visor?

Haha thanks :)

Hmm, I suppose you could try using the laser cutter DXF to printer paper templates and cutting them out of 6 mm MDF with a hand saw? As an alternative to a vacuum former you might have some success with a hot air gun on very thin PETG but I had trouble using this method - the PETG got creases in it very easily. Let me know if you come up with something.

Alternatively there may be some a shared communal workshop or hackspace near where you live with access to the required machines.

Good luck!

yeah theres a techshop here in sf, with a nice 24" vacuum former. However you have to take a class to get certified first (which is full this month), plus pay a beef membership fee...

Still, i think ill do it. Just so i dont have to take another class for the cnc machine, i was thinking of printing out a shelled version of the vacuum mold for the visor (in 2 peices, glued together), though its unclear to me how strong it has to be to survive vacuum forming.

Hmm that's a lot to ask I guess.

I actually tried that, I printed a hollow shell, filled it with expanding foam and then coated it in car body filler for strength. Unfortunately the heat and pressure inside the vacuum former cracked the thin card body filler layer and it didn't work. I'd recommend making a wooden mould, it needs to be pretty strong.

Dang. Ok, last idea before I break down and do the CnC. I 3d print a mold negative, fill with cheap clay, harden, then use that as the mold for vacuum forming. Does that seem like madness?

I cut the mold in half and printed it out. Glued it together, put a light coat of bondo to smoothed it out and sanded it down. So far it looks good. Will see how it comes out when I vacuform it.

like the full mold or the mold-for-the-mold? I've printed a thin shelled mold to put clay in, and it took about 20 hours. Ill start smoothing and clay-ing soon

I cut the visormould.stl in half with netfabb. To big to print all at once.

Haha doesn't sound like madness at all! Worth a shot, I'd say give it a go if it'll save you a bunch of cash.

for the life of me i cant get the helmets boots to print out correctly, posted pics here http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.php?5404-weird-print-issue-need-some-help

did you print with support? having a weird issue with the bottom left part. on the back bottom corner it keeps extruding to much filament causing to look clumped up. i have changed the orientation and it still does it. everything else is fine. Any ideas? thanks

Hey, I didn't use support but I did use a brim to help with adhesion. I had a look at your pics and I'm stumped I'm afraid. Try opening the .stl in an editor and repairing/re-saving it and see if it slices correctly. Have you checked the output g-code after slicing?

its was the firmware. it came with an 8" version and i have the 10". so when it tried to print past 8" it would cut it off. updated it and its printing just fine

Glad to hear you've got it fixed, I suppose since it was firmware the g-code looked legit and then it just wouldn't move the extruder past the maximum position on the bed. Result = big clump of filament ;-)

Good luck with the rest of the helmet, feel free to get in touch if you run into any more problems.


dose this need to be re sized? or is it ready to go. did you print the visor mold out to?

Hi, the circumference of my head is 55 cm, and the helmet fits pretty snugly. You may have to resize it depending upon the size of your head.

The visor mould was formed with vacuum formed PETG. You'll need to make a mould. There's an stl file VisorMould which you can use if you have a CNC router (although I don't know what file type they take). I didn't have access to a CNC router so I used a laser cutter and the two dxf files to cut 6 mm mdf into slices of the mould, then glued them together and sanded for smoothness (check the video). The tint is done using VHT Niteshades sprayed in light coats on the inside of the visor.

How much filament did it take to print?

Hi, I don't recall exactly, I made a lot of mistakes during various stages of printing and had to reprint parts. I'm pretty sure I didn't use up a whole reel of Faberdashery 3 mm so less than 0.3 m^3.

You can put all the parts into your printer software and slice them and you will find an estimate of print material.


How did you make and tint the visor, I was going to vacu-form it, but was wondering what your method was

Hey yeah I did indeed vacuum form it. For the mould, there's an stl file VisorMould which you can use if you have a CNC router (although I don't know what file type they take). I didn't have access to a CNC rotuer so I used a laser cutter and the two dxf files to cut 6 mm mdf into slices of the mould, then glued them together and sanded for smoothness (check the video).
Tint is done using VHT Niteshades sprayed in light coats on the inside of the visor.

Hi Kinghelps,
im about to build and print the helmet..thanks for all the info and the files!
i still didnt get how you created the mold without CNC machine? would be great to know (couldnt see it on the video)

Hi Offir.

I used a laser cutter, which takes DXF files and cuts shapes out of thin materials. The two DXF files included in the thing files section need cutting out of 6 mm MDF (if you don't have access to a laser cutter, you could maybe print off the shapes you need to cut out on paper and cut with a hacksaw out of 6 mm MDF but it might be tough). Then, you glue them all together and do A LOT of sanding. Then you vacuum form thin PETG over the mould.


Hi, The 3D models are sized for a normal human ? or it was too big, and i must retouch it ?, thank for your job :-)

It fits my head pretty well. Circumference of my head is about 55 cm, so I guess measure your own and scale accordingly :)

:o , my circumference is 54cm, so it's was perfect :o i'll add some foam if i need. Thank you a lot !

You've got a couple of bugs in your arduino code. Here's a fixed version: http://pastebin.com/pjJmd72Zhttp://pastebin.com/pjJmd72Z

Nice one, thanks. Which bits did you change?

Here's the diff: http://www.diffchecker.com/iwp6fsywhttp://www.diffchecker.com/iwp...

Though that's to my current code, one of my lights wasn't blinking so I changed the pin to troubleshoot. But everything else seems to be due to transposing numbers.

Cheers, uploaded a fixed version.

Think you could make a Thomas Baltanger one?

It's on the list of things to do, but this one was a pretty big effort! I'll get round to it some time in the distant future. Not likely this year though :)

Cool! now people will stop asking me a to make a full size wearable version. :)

Best part of the video was ironing the plaid shirt. Only a true robot would iron plaid!

Wow, I love this helmet! Great work!

Dude, that is awesome!

Sweet construction and demonstration video!