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Meermeneer

Z Endstop Fine Adjustment Prusa i3 - Anet A8

by Meermeneer Sep 17, 2016
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I don't use my Anet A8 since I received my MK3. This is by far just as you say; "This is like asprin to a headache!" Thank you for the simple brilliant design. I have one question. Well, 2 actually. Is there a reason the parts are orientated the way they are? Is it better structurally if kept in the imported orientation and use supports, or can I achieve the same results if I rotate them to lie flat on the bed? Thank you.

Hi MatthewB4

Print orientation really isn't that critical in this case. You can lie them down flat and it should turn out fine.

Really a nice design, and makes Z axis height adjustments so easy.
Thank you!

Shophttps://www.fastenere.com/search?type=product&q=m2*

i made one for my A6 and it sadly didn't work: the bottom portion wants to be installed facing forward (not to the left as in Meermeneer's pictures), but the top part has nothing to screw to, and due to the stock design of the Z axis stepper bracket, overhangs too far to hit the bottom piece. The description didn't say it would work on an A6, so i'm not complaining. i like this design so i might just have to learn tinkercad (or similar) to get it working with the A6... stay tuned!

Hi Meermeneer,

Are you OK for me to modify the design of the leg a little and upload the result to Thingiverse?

Thanks

JTB

Hi JTB

I don't mind at all, please do.

Kind regards

Meermeneer

Is there a recommended orientation for printing the two frame parts?

If you have an Anet A8, make this first! This is like asprin to a headache! Everytime I use it, I thank whoever designed it. Game changer and has worked well for over a year now. I dont use the small foot for the adjustable screw... it never prints or trims 100% level. I just use a long screw placed upside down so the head come in contact with the endstop... works a charm!

This. It's definitely a little off to the left of the switch but it touches enough of it. The foot is hard to put on anyways. I might remix it to move the hole a little to the right to line it up better, or just move the foot a little further in to the right.

Can someone send me a link to where you got this screws the long m3 used in this model I can't find them anywhere

Nice thing!
I designed those thumb wheels so that it can be adjusted by hand, without an screwdriver!

Narrow thumb screw for M3 bolt
by asak

You can add that you need longer screws to mount it to X carriage

True , X Carriage got modified and has 4 screws instead of 3.

Are supports or rafts needed when printing?

Find angles and no supports would be necessary

No, you shouldn't need any.

If the M3x30 screws that are attached to the X-carriage are too long, you can place a nut and a washer next to the head of the screw to fill the gap and being able to tighten the screws into the X-motor.

BTW thanks for the design, saves me a lot of trouble!!

Printed it as it was neat and a clean design... fitted it (what a pain to get the adjustment screw in). Removed it then binned it... There was not enough vertical space/adjustment for it to work.

Awesome remix! With this version I can use my E3D V6 without having to loosen the bed screws completely as it allows for the nozzle to get lower.
Plus, on the original one I couldn't find good screws to mount the actual switch:
1) Making it a horizontal gap was unnecessary and you perfectly changed it to just 2 holes
2) That gap was too wide and too big for the original screws or other small screws. With your version, we can just use the screws that came with the printer.
Perfect, thanks!

Thanks man, appreciate it.

you're welcome :)

Does anyone know if this still can be used with a x-axis cable chain?

Hard to explain but this z-endstop part sticks out from the x motor. The x-axis cable chain also connects to the same screw holding the x motor. I will give it a try when I print out the parts. Basically, both the these things I want to print connect to the same place, on the x motor.

Oh yes now I got that. I'd recommend to put the cable chain under this and modify the bottom part to have the switch still perfectly under the cap

Made this up and was well pleased. I did have to use some different screws to hold the parts to the stepper motors. reamed out the adjustment hole and bearing plate with a 7/64" drill.

Has good alignment and saves trouble when I need to make fine adjustments on the base plate height.

Note to anyone who is a fabricator. Get your self some hardware and a set of drills. Will pay off many times over. I get over night shipping from mcmaster.com.
Thanks

If you have a hard time trying to thread a 3M screw into the leg, run the leg under hot water for a couple of minutes. Makes it easier to drive the screw down.

I used a lighter and got it really hot... made a perfect thread! Also, burnt myself.

What type of screw did you use to attach to the X carriage? I can't find any M3 for the life of me at Home Depot or any other hardware store and I'm not ordering 1000 off amazon.

ace hardware has em

Hi, i simply used the screws that secure the stepper motor to the x carraige that came with the printer.
You take them out of the stepper slide the leg over the holes and screw them back in, just like in the photograph.

I have tried the bolts that came with the printer, they are too short and will not grab the motor thread. I think I need at least a M3x25mm, either that or I have to modify the model somehow to make the head recess further in. I have the newer A8 with the carriage that covers the complete x-motor.

Don't use the foot and go from the bottom up, using the screw head as the foot, and you don't have to go through the body of the mount giving you extra length.

Maybe on the new one, the thickness is wider :/ But that would mean that they ship too short screws as they don't go all the way in even without this part! Bad job Gearbest / Aliexpress

Aah, the newer X-carraige is most likely the problem then. Don't you have any extra left over screws from the printer kit that could work? If not I'm sure you'd be able to get some longer ones at almost any hardwarde store. I would try that first rather her than ordering a 1000 online.
Good luck man

Thanks so much works great

fits and works very well. Thank you!

I wided the hole with a 3mm drill. Too big for a 3mm screw to grip but two pieces of extruded filament and some drops of acetone made the screw hold until the acetone was evaporated. Then the hole was ok-ish tabbed for the screw. I guess the same could be done with a 2.5mm drill and acetone to soften the walls of the hole and not to break the whole piece with the 3mm screw.

hope that helps someone.

Thank you for that, works very well.
As my printer is still not setup properly the holes for screws were not very well calibrated. I just warm up the screws (metal) a little on gaz coocker (mind your fingers !) to start threading and then apply a solderer against the screw to reheat, then screw etc... as necessary until it pass through the over side. Unscrew and cut the material pushed by the screw with a cutter
Total time 5 minutes top
thanks again

"I used a thread tap to cut straight into the plastic, i'm sure a normal screw would cut its own thread in there easy enough if you apply enough force."

Just wanted to note that this took me about 3 hours of screwing and unscrewing and filing (I don't have a thread tap nor a fitting drill at hand), so if anyone wants to build this, consider increasing the hole diameter.

An easy way to cut threads into plastic is to make a tap out of a screw. Simply file a flat spot on the side of the screw until you get down to the shank (the un-threaded portion of the metal). Do this on one side from the tip up to the thickness you will be going into. For a 3mm screw a 2.5 mm drill should work to clear the hole for threads. Now screw the modified screw into the hole and it will cut the threads just like a tap does.

I'm sorry, but it took you 3 hours to screw a screw into a hole? Even if you didn't have a drill, you didn't have any screws that were closer in size? And even if you didn't have any screws closer in size, you didn't have anything, like maybe a screwdriver that was close in size to the screws you did have, you could have heated it up on the stove and melted a larger hole and then cleaned it up with a file.

But yeah, you should print this with holes that match the screws you have.