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Klotzmando

Open Cable chain set for HICTOP 3DP-11

by Klotzmando Sep 19, 2016
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I just printed the v2 version of the bottom of the case and after it was done I realized there was no slot for the SD card. No biggie, I just cut a hole, but it would be great to add a version with this feature.

I'm not sure what you are asking for. The case is for the HICTOP 3DP controller board and there is no SD card on the controller boards I have used. Normally, the SD card is on the LCD panel. Could you supply a link to the controller you are using?

Here is the case that came with my 3DP-12 that I just bought and a picture of the controller that goes in the case. There is an SD card slot on the back side of the controller. The cabling also routes a bit different.

Do you have the raw CAD files you used to make these parts?

I have not seen that one before.
Hence, I was not aware of the need. If I can find a dimensional drawing of the board or even a board itself, I will add the slot.
However, MeshMixer ( a free tool) does have the ability to modify STL files, so you should be able to add the slot without cutting a slot in the physical print.
Unfortunately, I am willing to share my STL files but like many of the providers on this site, I do not wish to freely share my design files on this forum.

I am struggling finding the dimensional drawings for the control board, but here is a link to the board on Amazon and you can see the SD slot. I will also try and use meshmixer to see if I can modify the part myself.

https://www.amazon.com/HICTOP-Printer-Control-RepRap-Arduino-compatible/dp/B015W7PWRG?tag=wwwwarriorsof-20

Can you post the open chain in 2 separate stl ? i want to print it in different colors ....and i need one of each and don't want to print two complete set......

By the way.....i realy like you model thanks!!

I am rather busy right now, but if you use Cura or Simplify3d I think you will find that you separate them yourself.
Check the FAQ for the slicer you're are using, the answer should be there.
When I finish my current set of projects, I will see about releasing the links as individual stls.

Thank's for your reply......I found how to separate the pieces in the .stl with Simplify 3d......

As I said I had thought Makers Muse had indicated that it was a feature. Thanks for verifying it.

Do you have models for those little decor blocks you put in your frame beams? :)

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:819642
The hole in the back of the mount is just the right size for the M5 screw used for mounting stuff on the 2020 frame.

woodscrew ziptie mount

YES! You are the coolest! Thank you for taking the time to find that :)

So i downloaded this, modified the mounts on X carriage and X motor to fit my needs and am testing it currently. Working ok.

Have you had any issues with the cable chain hanging horizontally? Now that i see it working, i am wondering if the weight of the cables, and hrs and hrs of use will introduce any issues such as extra friction to the carriage moving since the weight of cables its against chain links. ( so far so good tho)

absolutely. They are printed plastic and will wear over time, even if they were routed such that the links flexed vertically instead of horizontally. The print is designed to fit together without sanding so there are rough surfaces that rub together and abrade. Over time the links will wear through to the point where they are no longer providing support.
As you have pointed out the X carriage will wear more quickly then the ones that go to the electronics box.
I saw this as normal and made sure to print extra links for the day when the would wear out. Fortunately since these are open, it will be possible to replace the badly worn links without remove the entire chain.

!!! WARNING: !!!!
DO NOT ROUTE THE SENSOR WIRE OVER THE TOP OF THE X-CARRIAGE AS SHOWN IN THE PICTURE!!!!
If you route your SN04 sensor wire over the top as I have here there is a potential for pinch damage to the sensor wire.
This happens if you use the move axis command from the LCD and raise the Z above 170 mm. The cable will be pinched between the sharp edge of the pillow bearings and the 20-20 horizontal support on the top of the printer.
If the cable from the SN04 is pinched enough the sensor signal will be degraded and the controller board will not properly detect the plate. This in turn will result in damage to the print bed.
The good news is that these things are relatively cheap so I have spares on hand and will be able to repair my machine. Here is a link to the amazon item https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004V6PTKA You may be able to get it for less at e-bay or else where.

I am currently attempting to develop a permanent solution to this problem and will be updating this soon. If you find a solution please post it here for everyone.
Thanks,

Simple solution is place a max-Z stop in your setup or compile Marlin with the correct maximum z-height . The Hictop should have at least one additional switch in the kit if you go the switch route.

It is unfortunate that Marlin, at least the version used for the official HICTOP build, does not use the Max z height when moving the axis via the LCD menu. I certainly could and possibly will implement the Max-Z stop. Like many other things I keep thinking I should but just haven't gotten around to do it.
Now that I know that the pinching of the inductive sensor wire does not cause any damage, it isn't a priority.
My next change will be to update the firmware to the latest Marlin source once I sort out the changes to configuration.h. Unfortunately HICTOP did not use the latest release and did not identify which version their code was created from so DIffing it is quite a challenge.

Pinching at the same point will eventually cause a problem. I can provide you with my config.h file for the latest Marlin version if you want. You'll just have to tweak it to your machine (I have dual heads, stronger x and y motors).

Before developing a fix, I thought I should find out what broke. The only missing part for my analysis was a way of testing the sensors.
I built a test system from an Arduino Mega 2650 and some spare parts.
Imagine my shock when I found that the sensor worked perfectly!
Anyone have a suggestion of what I ahould look at next?
Description of the fault:
The printer goes through the Auto Home sequence perfectly. But while doing the 9-point leveling step, it just races through the 9 points without probing. Then when it starts to print it cuts into the print-bed. This was a new behavior after I accidentally raised the Z-Axis to 178 mm. The printer reached the top bar, it appeared as if the sensor wire was caught between the pillow bearings and the top cross bar, and then the stepper motors started to skip. So I powered the printer off and disconnected the USB cable to power off the controller board.
From that point on the printer did not seem to be able to properly do the 9-point and I now have several nasty gouges on my print bed.

Well thought out design and good execution. Replacing the hoard of cable-chains parts and pieces with this design (including the case - Never much liked the one I printed out). This becomes even more critical when you add dual extruders to the i3. Thank you for taking the time to share.

Hi,
What fill density % do you recommend?
im new to printing and the cable mess is... well a mess!

Honestly I just use the default setting in Mattercontrol. I think it is 15%

ok, thanks.

Im gonna try 10 for the chain as im low on filament.