T4bee Microcopters smallest possible 2", 2.5", 3", 4" multirotors for 20x20mm FC & CCDs, Swift Mini, Micro Swift, CMOS etc.

by t4b_ Sep 29, 2016
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment


is it possible to add 16x16 mounts for smaller flight controllers / aio boards?

I'm planning to make the Tankystretch 130 with a BetaFPV 2-3s stack and either Caddx Turtle v2 or other HD camera, would the BetaFPV 1105 600kv motors be suitable or should I go for higher kv motors? Would like to keep the quad agile but not have laughable flight times either.

Edit: Actually it looks like I'll be doing either the Tanky 110 for 110x motors or the Toothrip 110 for 110x motors. Printing both in Polycarbonate and will see which looks better flex and weight wise.

Printed both the Tanky 110 for 110x motors and the Toothrip 110 for 110x motors, the Toothrip is about 4g lighter when printed in Polycarbonate and has about the same amount of flex as the Tanky so I think I'll go with this one. Would 6000kv or 7500kv motors be better for compatibility with both 2s and 3s batteries?

I am thinking about making one of these, but am confused about the frame models and how to get them. I want the frame that appears in the first picture when you open this page, but don't know what model that is or whether I would print it out of PLA or order in in carbon. PLA seems like it would be a little bit brittle for this application, but I don't know where I would order the frame either. Tbh I'm not even sure if it's a 2.5 or a 2 inch. Thanks!

The first picture is the original tanky 110 version with a micro swift pod medium. And it's a 3". The smallest possible 3" to be precise. I would advice against printing in PLA. The only material which could hold up to the stress would be various Nylon filaments, but CF is certainly the best option.

You can order everything here: https://armattanproductions.com/pages/shop_product_grid/985

Ah, sweet. I'll probably order it off armatten then, would the mini mamba power tower stack fit in it? And what motors/props would you recommend. Thanks for the fast reply!

EDIT: Looking at this here https://armattanproductions.com/pages/product_details/4555 is this the entire frame or just the bottom plate? If it's just the bottom plate, what else do I need?

A little heat and TPU is definitely key for the canopy. Maybe i missed it, but no tanky 110 for 110x motors? Some really great designs. Thanks!

there's totally tanky 110 for 110X motors, but I didn't put my version up on thingiverse because Cbonics did it before I made mine. it's here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2017681

GreenBee Micro110mm for 1104/1105 motors
by Cboniks

Swift micro is in! Quick tips - make sure the print in TPU is smooth where it needs to be. I used the shank end of a hot 1/4" drill bit to touch up a few areas. Then warmed up the canopy a fair bit over heat until it was quite pliable but not "hot." Pushed in with some force and finagling but was cleanly in after about 15 seconds of work.

looks good! Great work! The Microswift canopy is indeed a bit of a tight squeeze, haha, but it does work. Would love to see your final build!!!

So far I have an 87mm, the 3.5" prop version, and am about to order the a couple of stretch 130s for 3 in props. I have a set of F20 motors which are an 1408 size. Am I reasonable to try and recycle these motors or should I be targeting a 1106/1107 option.

The F20s should be great and super fast on the 130. Just make sure you also order the crossbeams. powerful motors like the F20s can produce quite some vibrations (esp. with dinged up props etc.), and the crossbeams provide a lot more rigidity .. Also serve as nice planned breaking points, so I'd definitely recommend using them.

Perfect... putting together an order...
Has the TPU For the Swift Micro been "loosened" up for fit a little easier?

Love the products and lack of hype marketing

thanks, haha. The Micro Swift canopy hasn't changed. But there's plenty of people who have successfully printed and fitted their cam without much issues, so I think it works as it is. May just have to print at tiny bit higher scale or spend some time fiddling the cam in.

ok... great to know... I will order from an outfit...

Attached is a pic of the newly assembled toothrip with swift micro, 2.5 props, vtx03, Piko F4 and ESC, with 1105 motors

that looks like a fantastic little beast! Not too many people have build 2.5" versions. Would love to see some more pics and feature it on my pages / instagram etc. if you're cool with that (with proper attribution of course).

Will do.. gateway back to 3" which was too much. It will be a bit until real flying as we have 2" of snow on the ground and it is cold!

First, thank you for your work !

The camera micro swift can't get into the micro swift canopy :/

Yea, I know it's pretty impossible to fit if you print it in abs or some other hard material without taking off the lens.
If you print it in TPU or some other softer material, however, you should be able to squeeze it in ..

Even without lens it's pretty impossible in PLA, I can't rotate the cam inside.
I will try to do it in TPU then, thank you :) I will feed back

yea PLA won't work I'm afraid... But TPU (or some other semi-flex material) should be the better material anyway.. Please do report how it works out and share some pictures if possible :D Thanks!

(Sorry for my english :D)
I have my canopy in TPU. And it need to be cut to be able to put the micro swift inside and at the right position for the screw... I was affraid i was breaking my runcam to force it inside. But after 2 hours the cam is inside x)
This canopy should be a little bigger, because even in TPU, it doesn't really flexible enough and the micro swift isn't protected enough to be able to force it proprely inside (microchip on the edge).
Thank you for sharing :) I will use it in my new racer (will put more picture when I will finish it).

thanks for the feedback! Looks awesome actually now that you got it in :D
Did you try printing the canopy at a slightly bigger scale? maybe 1.1 ? Maybe that could help. Also could you highlight where you had to make a cut to make it fit? that would help me make improvements to the design.

I don't have printer so i paid someone to do it.
I cut the bottom (picture canopy20) and inside at the front because i couldn't put the screw. But now i have to put it out again, my cam isn't focus anymore, near but not great... EDIT : I hot clue the lens, the focus is okay now :)

Here the final result, i have not flight with it though for the moment, too bad weather.
Polycarbonate 3mm.

That is an incredibly beautiful build. Very very well done! Love it!

Ty :) I put wires for led, but the one I bought can't be use in this. I see you did a led support, what led should I use with it ?

the led support was intended for 4x 3mm leds. As long as you have 3.3V or 5V + resistor you can basically use any color or combination you want to. However, nowadays I juse use one vertical strip of RGB leds on the back-facing standoff. Works well and looks cool :D I'll take a pic of it later.

I really love those designs and im trying to make one of this bad boy.
Can you give info and photos about your toothrip 184 stretch setup please.

Thank you for that good job

that's the 4" stretch with thin arms.. I haven't actually build one of those myself. What kind of info are you looking for? I could give you a list of hardware I think would work out well for example ..

Yes of course. I've sent you a Private message

Is there anyway that we could get an AIO camera mounting system? I've tried designing one but I'm no good.

shit, yea, I've been promising that for a while--will deliver something soon. In the meantime, in the remixes you'll find some approaches which may be of help. If you cut a bit out of the cmos canopy, for example, you should be able to fit CM275 type aios...


made an initial version of the 25deg canopy. Will probably do a CF-millable pod later ..

Cool frame, was flying it alot this weekend - designed some stuff for it if you care :)

I marked them as remix so they would show up easier for others to find, hope that's fine
Stack cover: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2515441
Lipo/Bottom plate: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2515483
Lipo/Strap protector: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2515491

T4bee Stack Cover/Shield
T4bee Lipo protector
T4bee Bottomframe/Lipo plate

Wow, cool, awesome stuff! Thanks!

DId you print the feet/booties in tpu or abs? I noticed they have no screw holes so I am wondering how well they will stick to the feet that way.

They're clip-on, meaning you'll need to use at least semi-rigid filament such as PLA, ABS, Nylon or Taulman Alloy. I personally prefer to print a bunch of bio-degradable shoes which may selft-destruct on impact and can be replaced within seconds than having to unscrew my motors whenever one of the shoes gets bashed up a bit.

That said, you can always use glue to make TPU or whatever stick :D

I see - thx a bunch for clarification! Also awesome frame, only did a quick hover test but gonna give it a fly soon. My cleanest build yet :D

Please do consider uploading a picture of your build! always happy to see final products!

T4bee Microcopters smallest possible 2", 2.5", 3", 4" multirotors for 20x20mm FC & CCDs, Swift Mini, Micro Swift, CMOS etc.

Will surely do!

Had a look at the Frame by Novex and am concerned with the mounting hole smack bang in the middle of the arm creating a weak point for failure. My Tinkercad skills are not up to scratch yet but have done a remix of your excellent design by adding some more material at the corner as it only requires half a hole more to fit a std FC.

Will work on it this weekend and post it next week.

After a few attempts at printing the 110 frame, eventually got one completed. I realise the mounting holes are for a 20x20 but would have been great to have the outer holes at 30.5mm instead of 28 to make it compatible for the larger FC's.

The whole thing was conceptualised to be the smallest possible for 20x20 hardware and 3" propellers. Accordingly I chose the standoff distances also to be the smallest possible. 30.5mm distance would have resulted in a bigger frame and/or props cutting above the main body cf.

That said, you should be able to fit a 30.5mm in there if you absolutely insist. Just need to drill some holes. Or, I believe someone has already made a remix for such a version.

Edit: Indeed there's a version that fits regular FCs: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1903597

But really, with the current wealth of 20x20 hardware, I really see no need for regular sized FCs in here..
The only reason I can see would be if you wanted to fit a KISS fc.. but that one would perfectly fit in the solution by Novex

Micro 110mm FPV Quadcopter
by Novex

We need to find a way to get a Runcam Split in there.

i'm sure there will be a 20x20 split soon

There is one now - 2 pcbs tho, might be ok if you are not using a 4in1 :)

I'm in the process of building one... Just waiting for my split mini to arrive.. Should fit the micro swift pod nicely :D

Anybody running this as a 2s set up? Is it possible? I want to fly it indoors and don't want to destroy a wall or someone's face with 4s.

the lowest I would go with a setup here would be 1104 motors on the 2" frame, but that already is way too powerful to fly indoors. For indoor i'd recommend one of these guys instead:


T4bee 16x16mm FC size smallest possible frames for 0703, 0705 and 0806 motors and various prop sizes with simple cam holder or cam pod
by t4b_

where is this 2" ive been looking for a 2" or 2.5" version

It's on armattan already. Will try to update the thingiverse page with 2", 2.5", and 3.5" next week I hope..

Ahh just found them. I was thinking they would be 110X motors :( for multi GP.

the 2" is for 110X motors .. and there's also 110X versions of all the other frames online.. 110, 130, 150 etc.

Could I bother you for a link.
Only thing I'm finding is strechbee on thingsverse and on Armattan all I find is 3" and 0806 motors w/ 16x16

110X 2" 106 hexa: https://armattanproductions.com/pages/product_details/8152
110X 2" 95 stretch quad: https://armattanproductions.com/pages/product_details/8151
110X 2" 87 true-X quad: https://armattanproductions.com/pages/product_details/8150

If you don't see the newer stuff in the shop you may have to empty your browser cookies or try a different browser. Common Armattan problem.

Thanks! I hate the setup they have. So hard to navigate..and with no way to filter anything below 3" don't make it any easier

Any chance of a canopy with no camera tilt?

with the cmos I suggested you get 150° view or so, which means you already see the ground before you pretty well with the 15° tilt it has. If you make that zero you basically look at 50% ground + lots of motor and arms all the time.. Don't see why you would want that?

my friend had me mixed up on what angle he was referring to, is it possible to tweak the canopy to use the same mounting posts as the FC?

theoretically yes, but that would would be contrary to the whole philosophy behind this setup. for anything above 110x motors I cannot stand designs where the canopy / topplate etc. share the same mounting screws as the FC stack. One hard crash and you can kiss your stack goodbye. That's why this design has independent standoffs. They will take the impact force and protect your stack.

possible to get the STL files from the 1104 frames?
I can only download the 1306 frames :(

for the 1104 frame you need to go to cbonics remix page on thingiverse.

GreenBee Micro110mm for 1104/1105 motors
by Cboniks

Is there also a Version from the toolthrip Frame?

Any plans for a pod that would fit aio cameras such as tx01-03? Also, a pod with more camera angle would be interesting! I just finished my build (with cf plate from armattan). Maiden as soon as the weather gets better :)

Very soon there will be two full sized ccd (minimalistic and protection-maximising) as well as a swift mini pod available.

Cool! But nothing for those all in one cam/vtx cameras? I was thinking something similar to the pod on the Air arsenal squirt. It would be very easy to just stick an aio-camera in there :) Maybe I'll have to work on my designing skills and draw something up myself :)

Hmmm, I was working on an aio vtx+cam pod for another brushless tinywhoop project ... might as well adapt it for the 110 I guess :)

BTW: I made something today... :) Aio pod ftw! https://ibb.co/eGrziv

Do you still have the stl files for that pod?

Is there a way to get the 1104 motor version in 3mm plates on Armattan?

No option to add to cart. Only to download DXF.

edit: only can add from storefront https://armattanproductions.com/pages/shop_product_grid/985 , but can't add from individual product pages. Got one on the way for that piko BLX that's been setting in the drawer.

This is the reply from armattan:
"I just tried to purchase it myself and I didn't have any problems. However, I will speak to the website team to be sure. In the meantime, I suggest that both you and your customer logout, clear your browser cache, then restart your browsers and try again. Let me know if that doesn't solve the problem."

Strange. It must have worked before as someone else has successfully ordered it before. I'll ask armattan productions about it. Thanks for the notice.

not at the moment, but I should be able to put that up within a few days if requested.

Thanks for sharing, I don't know when I'll be able to get around to making it but it looks just awesome.

Correct me if I am wrong, but I think a just ran into a snag running any motors smaller than 1306 on this 110 configuration. The 1306 motors keep the props elevated in your pictures however if the props were lower they would come into contact slightly (or maybe just barely not depending on the props/standoff) with the 20x20 stack. In my case it is a 4 in 1 esc that I don't want props near.

I am finding this on 1304 motors, so anything smaller I assume won't work with 3" props...
So I have made my BlackBee 115mm in the meantime to give extra clearance. Also 115mm may be able to fit HQ's 3.18" prop...

So there may need to be a GreenBee115mm for smaller motors...

It all depends on the specific properties of your stack as well as your propellers I guess. The piko should fit regardless of it's elevation with most 3" propellers I think. They should pass it very very closely but not touch.

Regarding AIO ESC stacks, personally I never use them, because I don't like the risk of burning all of the interior electronics if one of the escs fails, so I did not design this quad for those. If you were to use 4 standard issue 12 amp escs on the arms there'd be no problem, even with much smaller motors.

One of the main ideas behind this quad was to make it the smallest possible, so not sure how much I like the idea to make a 115 version. I'll think about it.

If you look at the build by flitejunkie330 on rcgroups, it seems he successfully flies a 3 board stack with 1104s: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2798066-Green-Bee-%28110mm%29-Smallest-Possible-3-Piko-BLX-Frame-3D-Printable%21/page2

Well look at there... I will look at mine again. I agree about the size. My concern is in a wreck, if you print with a material that has any sort of flex; the blades will first impact the electronic stack. Pick your poison. It seem though the risk of that is mitigated with 1306 motors...

I also would love to have this frame printed with motor hole placement for 1104/1105 motors. This frame is lighter than CF, and its form factor could benefit from this motor option. Instead of 12mm distance for 1306, could you render out another frame option with 9mm distance? I think many would greatly appreciate it!

alright, alright, I'll get on it..

Awesome! While you're at it, can you slim down the arm width to make it slightly more aerodynamic? This would mean less drag overall for the lightweight motors. We can then add z depth to strengthen the arms back up. What do you think?

GreenBee Micro110mm for 1104/1105 motors
by Cboniks

Oh wow, I love this! What's the possibility you could make an oversized canopy to fit in an HS1177? It would be amazing.

I'm thinking of making this build with 1407 Motors, and use a piko blx/innova vtx stack.

Hmmm.. A couple of things: First of all, be careful with the Furious Pico BLX. A whole bunch of people (including me) have had issues with the boards. For example ,the beeper doesn't work, also the "heavy duty" BEC does not even deliver 1A, which means no chance to connect osd + cam + vtx on that. Which is also a problem a lot of people have had with the innova. It will work on 25mw, but at 200mw it blacks out. There are, however, clones of the BLX on banggood which seem to have much better BECs, so it may be worth getting one of those instead (I know, it's weird, but in this case the clones actually seem to beat the originals).

Secondly regarding the oversized canopy and 1407 motors: While in principle possible, I really really dislike the idea. This entire copter was conceptualised to be as small as possible, as low profile as possible and to have the ideal weight / power ratio while being virtually indestructible. All of which is achieved in exactly the configuration I posted. Everything is very very tightly packed. HS1177 would be enormous on this frame and would stick out massively on top, increasing mass, profile and drag and drastically reduce crash resilience . The canopy would not be nearly as tough and durable if you build it tall enough to encompass a hs1177. Regarding the motors: the 1407's should fit on there as is, but again I am sceptical about the advantages. They may make sense on a bigger 130 or 140 3" frame, but on this one I don't see how it would. If you build it the way I suggest (with the small cam etc.) you end up with only a little above 200g take-off weight. For that sort of weight the 1306 are the ideal choice. 1407s would not make it go faster, it would just make it heavier and more sluggish and drain your batteries faster.. (you may even have to switch to bigger batteries).

That said, for reasons that completely escape me, I have 2 friends who are working on canopies for the 110 to hold a 1177 mini, as well as a runcam owl plus. Which they have promised to hand me once they're done so I can upload them--which I intend to do despite my reservations. So you will probably be able to do your 1407 hs1177 combo, regardless of my lamentations.

is the 1177mini canopies done?

My friend, skynetcom has uploaded a remix for 1177 type cameras. Check it out here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2055073

green bee 110 canopy tower of sauron for hs1177 cam

First of all, thanks for your thorough response! I'll reread it again in a moment. As it so happens, I just wrote a hype post for your frame, as it's not anywhere else! Feel free to drop in a post in here if you'd like :)

Could you print this at .3mm for extra strength?

Any chance you could slot the motor screw holes to accommodate 1104/5 motors?

although I have a general aversion against stepping down in power I shall consider ;) what's the measurements for those then?

thank you :D Indeed I would like to think it is, hehe..

I just posted my first designs to Armattan (first drafts were in acrylic). It's actually how I cam across this post - About to embark upon what will basically be my first 3d project for some of the designs. Reallllllllly hoping I can make something as polished as you have here. Gotta make some ducts and a pod like yours.

It's a bit tamer - designed for 1103/5 motors ... or perhaps 1304. But I'm getting tired of gluing acrylic together :)

I'll try and post back with progress! Any videos of this beast? Did you post this to RCGroups?

Thanks man! Haven't gotten round to post videos or to RCGroups yet, but yea, "beast" is a pretty good descriptions. Or maybe an extremely angry killer bee :D

Hey, nice little thing.
Do you have some more technical data?
What's the wieght?
What battery do you use, and what's the flight time with that setup.
What's the maximum payload (will it carry a GoPro)?

Depending on your setup you'll probably end up somewhere between 120g and 140g weight. I don't have scales with me right now, but I think it was something like 125g or so including props etc.

I'm using dinogy 4s 600mah or 850mah.

Flight time will depend on your battery size and how you fly, but since this little guy is meant to rip hard you probably won't get more than 4 minutes out of it.

Well in theory I guess you certainly get more than enough lift to carry a GoPro, but a) it's really not designed for that purpose and b) I don't see how you would mount it on there..