Folgertech FT-5 Cable Chain Link

by lilmikey, published

Folgertech FT-5 Cable Chain Link by lilmikey Sep 26, 2016
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Update 11/13/2016 - The topless versions require a new 'female' base. Added female and male bases. I've now installed the open-face chain and printed a couple test prints. If you want a complete, open-face chain I would suggest printing the entire chain as the 'clip-able' links and using zip-ties to secure the wiring. The clips hold ok but it doesn't take much force and one will drop on your part. If you just need more links for the stock chain then the standard link works great. You can also use the 'topless' bases with standard links if you happened to break or lose one.

In addition, when you are using the zip-ties, the safest place for the coupler is directly over the wiring. Otherwise you run the risk of snagging the carriage or melamine plates.

Update 11/11/2016 - Topless versions have been added. You can secure the cabling using small cable ties in either topless version. The 'clippable' version has a printable clip that snaps on to secure the cabling. I've printed enough of these things that I'm pretty sure they'll work well however I don't actually have them installed yet.

I thought I had misplaced the 2nd half of the cable chain during my FT-5 build so I designed a replacement. I ended up not needing to use it however these links attach to the stock ones appropriately and appear to have the same range of motion.

Print Settings


Folger Prusa i3






The non-topless versions had to print with supports so each link requires some cleanup. Besides that it prints easily, no special settings. The topless print fine without supports on my FT5 and i3.

White link is PLA printed on the Folder i3 2020 and the blue and yellow are PETG printed on the Folger FT-5.

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printed some parts, 0.15 mm layer height, with PLA, looked fine, but couldn't connect them with eachother without breaking them...

Hmm... I'm using a mix of PLAs (Hatchbox, MakerGeeks) and PETGs (Inland, MakerGeeks) on my current chain. The PLA is more difficult as the material is brittle and tends to break instead of bend. The open-faced chain has deeper holes and divots to make up for less structural support exacerbating that problem.

If you're breaking along layers then I would suggest thicker layers. Higher layer height is generally better adhesion (these are .2) and these little guys don't need that much accuracy. Otherwise you might be better off with PETG or even ABS, something with a little more give than PLA.