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Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

Mini Iambic Magnetic Morse Paddle

by ok1cdj, published

Mini Iambic Magnetic Morse Paddle by ok1cdj Sep 29, 2016

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Thing Statistics

3574Views 613Downloads Found in Electronics

Summary

Mini Iambic Magnetic Morse Paddle is designed for portable or SOTA operation. The original design was made by Vojta OK1IAK. I made some changes and description how to make it. There is OpenScad source available, you modify files if you like.

Material needed:

  • Bearing 604-2Z or 604-Z 4x12x4 mm 2 pcs
  • Neodym magnets 5x2mm 2pcs
  • Headless M3x5 screw 2pcs
  • M4x15 mm screew 1pc
  • M4 washer 2pcs
  • 2 mm bullet connector 1pc
  • 5 pin connector
  • 2 small pcs from brass sheet for contacts (0.1-0.2mm thick)
  • some thin wires

Use super glue for fixing parts.

5.2.2016 Added magnetic base - uses 1pc 5x2 magnet and 2pcs of 8x3 magnets
Added cable fixing

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

RepRap

Printer:

Prusa MK2

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

0.2

Infill:

50-100%


Notes:

For base use 50% infill.
For paddles 100% infill.

Post-Printing

Drill holes for M3 thread with 2.4 mm drill for M4 with 3.5 mm drill.
Make threads in plastic carefully!

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In your parts callout, you have 2 M4 washers. Where do they go? I assume they are used with the bearings but I don't see with your pictures where they go.

Thanks,
Jeff (NT1K)

How do you avoid of getting unwanted did-dah combinations, when you use very tiny gaps between the contacts and then push against one side. I tried your design and even made a small modification, but I find the center contact is to easy to bend just slightly and that will be enough to close the opposite contact too. I like to have very tiny gaps between the contacts, so that I just need to touch the paddle slightly to get contact, but that leads to that problem.
I ended up to move the contacts to the back of the paddle and to both sides near the outer wall. So every single lever is pushing against it's own contact and no chance to move the common contact to the other lever. I am stil not happy with my design though.

My original design used an M3 brass screw for the center contact, screwed through the bottom of the base up, with the tip filed to a smooth rod. Ondra's modification is certainly easier to put together, but my original design was maybe sturdier. For the model see the source, from which Ondra remixed the design.
Vojtech OK1IAK

I just uploaded my simple design paddle. Would much appreciate any comments on that.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1916796

I made some one and it works really nice.

Portable Paddle
by helste

Yes, it's easier to put together. That's right. That's the reason I tried it, but as I like a tiny gap, it does not work very well for me. So I made a totally different, but that was hard to built and did not work as I like it too. So I try another one. One of my early designs where I do not use any bearings or bolts. Will try to redesign that a bit and if it works, I can load it up.

Hello, I have some questions...
Where do I need to put the washers? The bottom paddle cannot move freely because it scratches the base conical M4x15 mm screw holder. (my bearing is 3x10x4, I have changed in params the berring settings, how do I need to change the base to accommodate?)
The base has 4 holes in a row, the fist one is for the bullet connector and the last one is for the M4x15 mm screw, what for are the other 2?

Hi, please send some pictures, from description i don't help you. I thing you need change the base. The washer on the top of M4 screw. The 2 holes on the bottom are for mounting to the base...

At this moment i making one. Thanks from R2FAG.

Hi, waiting for you result... GL.

thanks for share
73 de TA1DR

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