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IsmaelPR1

Anet A8 Prusa I3 E3d V6 Upgrade Direct Drive Mount with Print and Hot End Fan Ducts

by IsmaelPR1 Sep 30, 2016
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Sorry, can you explain how the motor is fixed please ?

Bonjour comment tient le moteur de l'extrudeur? svp

is there a cable chain that will work with this upgrade?

I uploaded an adapter to use this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2105040 on my profile if you are still searching!

ANET A8 | X-Axis Cable Chain
by TNS

The fan duct doesn't fit for me, its jammed against the heater block. has anyone found one that fits?

Can you add a bltouch smart mount?

I no longer have the printer nor a BLTouch but honestly I wouldn't have the time to either way.

holes are 25mm apart (height, z-direction), stock anet a8 sc8uu bearings have the holes 24mm apart.
in the x-direction everything fits perfectly.

I know the creator of this no longer has the printer. Does anyone have any experience printing flexibles with this setup? Has it gone well?

What did you do for the belt mount?

So does this work with the E3d V6 thats technically setup for Bowden? Then you just put the ptfe tube snug up to the direct drive gears? Thinking about using this setup as I really dont want to go Bowden nor do I want to spend a arm and a leg on the full E3D and Titan setup. Thanks!

Hi

So the V6 comes with a shorter custom heat break that goes into the aluminium heatsink. So how the heck did you attach it to the motor mount then? I can see in the picture you have some sort of tube. where do I get this tube from?

It is the stock heat break from the A8 (the threaded thing going into block). Mine was blocked up by broken PLA so I had to buy a few new ones, I bet you'll have to do the same

Does anyone have this setup remixed with an 18mm auto level sensor attached?

One negative I have found with this design is that the heat sink mount tends to delaminate(at the sharp slope change) when screwing in the lock collar. I reprinted at a higher temp and didn't have that issue the second time, but I thought I would let you know.

This all depends on the and that you use. Good filament will bond very well and not separate. I have never had this issue as in tend to stick the same brands that I know work well. Glad you got it sorted though, higher temps usually help. Another too for strong parts is using more than 2 outer perimeters as well.

How does the extruder stepper attach on the top?

It attaches with the heat break and nut similar to the original setup.

is this upgrade worth it?

I wish I could give you more information but after upgrading it I sold it. But the person who bought it really loved the quality.

bonjour
comment tenait la courroie svp

please can anybody help? ismaelpr1 i used your setup and its awesome btw thank you. but now nothing is centered on the bed.. im using the anet orig firmware and i cant figure out how to fix the 20mm or so offset difference to get the nozzle centered again.. i dont know g code so can anybody help get my nozzle centered again ?

which software u're using? and what's your heat bed size? I'm using Cura with Prusa i3 (modified clone), 22x22cm. For Cura, replace in the Custom FDM printer settings Start and End gcodes.
Start:
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 X17 Y-10 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F9000 ;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...

and End code:
M104 S0 ;extruder heater off
M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F9000 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way and bed moves to front.
G90 ;absolute positioning
G1 Y190 F9000 ;use this line if you want the bed to move to the front. delete if not.
M84 ;steppers off

Basically it's all in the Start code, the line with X and Y values: "G92 X17 Y-10 E0 ;zero the extruded length again" You can change those X17 and Y-10 numbers accordingly to your preference.

What did you use for the belt clamp? My previous one doesn't leave enough clearance for the other side of the belt.

I don't have the printer I sold it months ago. Man I wish I remembered. But it wasn't anything different from stock setup.

The stock setup is just the belt wrapped around a screw. I wish I knew how to model better, I'd make one

Hey there, I'm using this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1666094 It's great and gives then let the stability it needs.

Prusa i3 x axis belt holder

I had that one and the mounting holes didn't match up.

Turns out I needed to recalibrate my e-steps

Can i print this in pla??!

I printed in PLA the first go around and that was a bad idea. It has warped with trying to print PETG. I'm now re-printing in PETG.

I printed it in pla, it warped during my first PETG print.

PLA will distort with the heat. Not ideal.

so ABS its better right?

Thanks for sharing, i added a 18mm sensor bracket

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2093698

Anet A8 E3D direct drive remixed
by Bakchos

Could this, or would this work with the flexion hotend kit by diabase? https://flexionextruder.com/shop/extruder-for-e3d-hotend/

No, unless it can work without the mounting block.

I see that the location of the nozzle will change with this upgrade. Maybe i'm not getting it but how does the printer / software know that it moved??

You mean your z height? By adjusting the z end stop height.

Use Repetier-Host and go to "Config > Firmware EEPROM Config" and change the values in "Home Offset" to match what you now have and then save.

Great thanks!

I believe you can set the xy offset in your slicer settings

is it possible to add auto level sencor in these setup???

I was thinking the same and also found there is rear mounts (of which you have to print off a pair) which may work http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1883473

Anet A8 bed level holder (18mm capacitive sensor)
by LucaCap

I don't think so but you could customize the mount.

Anything is possible you'd have to modify the STL. I no longer have the printer so I can't say how.

Hi, i am relatively new to 3D printing, and i am wondering, why this is an upgrade from the default mount?
Is it related to cooling or?

Hi, i am relatively new to 3D printing, and i am wondering, why this is an upgrade from the default mount?
Is it related to cooling or?

This is for a e3d v6 hotend to attach to which is a good upgrade.

can you convert this to bowden as well?

is there anything i have to do to the hotend to make it work with the printer board?

How do you edit this. I want to put a few holes in it and make it a bit larger for my mkv. Thanks.!

That would be entirely up to you to edit it. You can download it and use Tinkercad to edit it I'm sure. Or you can remix it. Not really sure of how you'd like to do it.

Would printing this in pla temporary cause trouble?

Printing it in PLA is asking for trouble. In fact, I know from experience. When I started printing with PETG it caused the extension the heat break mounts to, to sag and warp. If you ONLY print in PLA then a PLA mount should be sufficient, but if you can, use ABS or PETG.

I wouldn't use PLA it has a much lower glass transition point and might soften.

Thank you for your response! Also was wondering, I recently switched to an auto leveling probe. What mount would work best?

I didn't install the auto level and I sold the printer shortly after updating parts on it so I don't know at this point. But the rear of this mount looks like the oem mount so the oem auto level mount should work, technically it is from Anet.

How does it hold up to heat? What parts are 15% and what parts are 100% infil?

I used 15% infill on all parts without issues.

Seems to hold up fine. Most 3d printers use abs in their structure as well. I have two other printers that have abs extruder carriages and I print 24/7 just about.

I cant really see how you mount the extruder :S

If you're familiar with how these things mount you'll be able to figure it out. But let me try to explain it. The threaded rod goes through the printed piece and you'll need to screw it into the extruder stepper but as soon as the threaded rod comes out the other side of the printed piece you'll want to get the nut in place. While you have the hot end sitting in the groove. Then you turn the rod until it presses against the hot end at that point you tighten the nut.

Sounds confusing I'm sure. But I no longer have the printer I built it for someone. Or I would take more photos.

How is the Extruder mounted? Only with the threaded screw?

Yes with the threaded screw. It holds on tight and doesn't move at all.

pla or abs?¿

thanks

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