A remixed MINI SNES style case for the Raspberry Pi Zero based on the original "Mini SNES - Raspberry Pi 2/3 Case" by AndrewBougie (-Thanks for coming up with this great concept)! A current WIP, I tried to accommodate the available outputs on the Pi Zero, yet this case will require a USB Hub & some modifications to your Pi Zero. I have expanded the SNES case design by allowing for a standard 3mm LED (red die with white diffused lens), Front side USB Ports (via internal hub), & functional POWER / RESET buttons. The POWER button on the case is wired to the Pi's GPIO port and used as a shutdown button. There are easy to find tutorials for writing the Python script for your shutdown button. The RESET button on the case is wired to the Pi's "RUN" PCB vias. This "hard resets" the Pi. Optionally, the reset button could also be wired to GPIO to provide a button that can be mapped to your emmulator's game specific reset function. The buttons I used are standard 7mm DPDT "non-locking" PCB puchbutton switches. You will also need 2 USB type "A" female sockets, and a prototype PCB perfboard. My goal with this project is to create a Pi based game station for as inexpensively as possible by using the Pi Zero as a base computer.
Build instructables link coming soon, still a WIP.
Please, I would love to hear your comments if you have any printing tips or suggestions!
I used the "Light Stone Gray" and "Dark Stone Gray" PLA 1.75mm $5 filament spools from Protoparadigm. I discovered for strong layer adhesion, use a temperature of 215°C. For the buttons, I used generic PLA "sample packs" from eBay. It took some research and messaging sellers to find a “Dark Purple” that closely matches the original SNES color. The first samples I received were a magenta hue, so don’t rely on seller pictures alone.
The Buttons are fairly simple to print. I used a solid fill with a low layer thickness (HiRes) to achieve the smooth convex shape of the button top surface. I also experimented with retracting after Z hops to avoid the printer dripping loose filament on the top/final layer surfaces.
The Case top is tricky to print due to the amount of supports needed. The settings can vary depending on your printer and the time you have available to print them. I used a shared printer, so I adjusted my settings to print them in about 2.5-3 hours. I used a Printrbot Simple Metal with a 0.6mm volcano nozzle for speed. The slicer software I used was Cura 15.04.6 with the following settings:
Layer Height= 0.3, Shell Thickness= 1.2, Enable Retraction [Y], Minimum Travel= 1.5, Enable Combing= [ALL], Minimum Extrusion= 0.02, Z hop when retracting= 0.0, Bottom/Top Thickness= 1.2, Fill Density= 25%, Solid Infill Top [Y], Solid Infill Bottom [Y] (I did some without for speed, doesn’t seem to affect quality. Without makes removing support structure easier), Overlap= 15, Speed= 50(55), Temperature= 215°C, Brim [Y], Supports [Y], Structure Type [LINES], Overhang= 2°, Support Fill amount= 15%, Distance X/Y= 1.5, Distance Z= 0.35, Brim Line Amount= 10, Nozzle Size= 0.6mm, Minimum Travel= 1.5, Skirt Line Count= 1
The case bottom is fairly simple to print. You can print these in higher resolution and still get a reasonable speed. I averaged about 2 hours with these settings:
Layer Height= 0.18, Shell= 1.2, Top/Bottom Thickness= 0.6, Fill%= 15%