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Tri Fidget Spinner Toy

by 2ROBOTGUY, published

Tri Fidget Spinner Toy by 2ROBOTGUY Oct 1, 2016

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Summary

UPDATE-

2/17/17: Check out my Esty Store http://etsy.com/shop/MrFidgetByMark
2/17/17: Finger Pad V2 Twisted Pins Added
2/16/17: Free contest to Win these Fidget Spinners https://youtu.be/kn49MOOfuHg

12/15/2016: By request 2D drawings have been added
11/112015 Version 2 released : Smoother edges
10/20/2016 Added a ready to print stl with all 3 parts.

Do you like this design and want more great projects? Donate a dollar or two to help order future supplies :-) http://bit.ly/2kbP40C

Want to mail me something? It may show up in a future unboxing video (include note)
Mark Fuller - PMB 163
463 Pooler Parkway
Pooler, Ga 31322

Video :https://youtu.be/NOGPQmb8KG8

All tolerances are exact and ball bearings need to be press fit in with a vise or equivalent device. If plastic cracks, increase stl model by 1-2 percent and print again. Standard 608ZZ Shielded 8x22x7 Miniature Ball Bearings used in this model. The center Bearing can be switched for a 608ZZ/C Ceramic Ball Bearing for increase spin time.

Spin on!

Print Settings

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

0.15mm

Infill:

100%


Notes:

For great results print this model at 0.15mm layers, 6 shells and 100% infill

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Nice design. Thank you!
I use my old skateboard bearings. I use toothpaste in the bearing to get rid of the grease and polish the bearing, then I just rinse with water. Get around 2 minutes of spintime. Not bad with ABEC 1 that are 20+ years old =)

I would love to do the stuff with magnets as seen in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNQCFBEHxms but would want to be a bit more permanent with the magnets.

Any idea how I could alter the design to allow me to slot in some magnets?

Also, where did you get them?

What kind of bearings did you use?

looks like a really cool thing to print!

If I make some, can I sell them to friends and other people?

Printed mine with TPU, no need for a vice. The bearings press in by hand easily. ;-)

I printed the twisted caps, but they broke when I tried to slot them inside the bearing. Should I use the flat caps instead?

Voilà le problème au niveau des trous qui font 20mm au lieu de 22mm

Même problème...il faut agrandir de combien de pourcent pour que les roulements rentre ?

Any advice getting clean fillet overhangs? This is a beautiful profile, but the overhang on my i3 is just a bit too much to give a clean curved edge. I can get an "almost" clean edge if I use a brim - but even then the underside is more like a line than a curve.

I've tried some parametric designs with a chamfer rather than a fillet and those print soooo much better.

I'd love to know if you have a secret slicer setting that makes this work for you!

I want to be a fidget spinner!

Comments deleted.

there is anybody who can help me? when im doing the project (horizontal) there is a moment that the printer goes fast and move the project and i lose it, how can i fix it? ty

what size should I print it at to fit the bearings?

I print this model at 100% and use a hammer to get the bearings into place. I also sometimes use a soldering iron to heat up the bearings if I cant get them in with just the hammer alone. The solder iron heats them up which heats up the plastic just a bit and allows you to get the bearings to fit. Check out my youtube video tutorial here: https://youtu.be/XF7dBDgrGAY.

Update: After posting this video I took the center bearing out and replaced it with a full ceramic bearing, and it has increased the spin time from ~30sec to over 2.5 minutes. Link: http://amzn.to/2sbQIV4

Let me know if you have any questions.

Comments deleted.

Thanks it works!

Great! Glad it worked well for you!

28mm ish I think

you should try 102% that is what most people do. i also had to do it at 102%

thank you

i just do 100%, I just use a hammer to get the bearings in, but it works

Yeah i have to hammer them in too even at 102%

Hey one back I fixed the prob but I got another. The bearing keeps wobbleing. I noticed it was the bearing cage. Would you mind making a better one

Hey. I made one of your spinners and when I put the bearings in it cracked. What should I do to fix it.

Print another one at 2% scaled up.

thanks for the help

Comments deleted.

Any possibility you could make a batman spinner? I got an order for one and any spinner design that isn't yours ends up no good.

How do you design the finger pads with the twisted pins?

I model them in SOLIDWORKS. Are you looking for more details?

May 16, 2017 - Modified May 16, 2017

Great design! I made one and fitted standart 608z ball bearings. I also degreased the center one and applied some oil. However mine only spins for about 10 seconds. What could be the reason? I should also note that I printed it with 102% scale since my first one broke while trying to fit bearings.

I was also getting the same issue where I wasn't getting a lot of spin time. I replaced the center bearing with a full ceramic bearing, and it has increased the spin time from ~30sec to over 2.5 minutes. Link: http://amzn.to/2sbQIV4 Let me know if you have any questions.

Degrease again and apply NO Oil. Run the bearings completely dry, that works best.

It may spin faster but it will wear the bearings out quickly. A couple drops of Speed Cream will help out a lot

I realized that my spinner is wobbling. Maybe 102% too big?

Just keep spinning, just keep spinning... It'll loosen up over time.

Probably your bearings, and maybe the oil.

Comments deleted.

Great design. I made 2 with my Ultimaker original on 102%. with 100% the bearing (608zz) didn't fit.
PLA
layer: 0,15mm
temperature: 220C
infill: 90%
travelspeed: 60mm/sec

Can you make a file for the Finger Pad V2 Twisted Pins where the pins are 2-3mm shorter. Now I grinded them shorter
so the space between the finger pads and the twister is smaller.

May 12, 2017 - Modified May 12, 2017

This is a great design! My issue with my print is that my top and bottom aren't smooth like printed products in the pictures. Mine resembles the last picture in the series above. I'm getting lines, and very visible triangles between the outer holes and the center hole. I've made sure my settings match those recommended here. Any ideas what I could adjust? If it matters, I'm using an Anet A8 with Simplify3D.
Thanks for any help!

Like BOOZWAHILI said try tightening your belts. I also use the Anet A8 and after I started applying some glue to the heatbed before my prints I noticed major improvements. I also increased the flow rate by 3% (103) and it seemed to help my case.

My settings for my filament (PLA):
Layer Height- 0.15 (for this print)
Shell Thickness- 0.4
Bottom/ Top thickness- 0.4
Fill density- 100
Print Speed- 30
Print Temp- 205
Bed Temp- 60
I also added a little brim to make sure it stayed on the bed since i wasn't in the same room the whole time.

Try tightening your X and Y axis belts (if you style printer has that), i found that was what was making my prints have visible lines. Hope it works!

how do i make three color frame

Ready to print and play spinner, no bearings needed and just one print!!! http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2300199

Ready to Print and play Spinner Fidget Toy + Caps + Integrated bearings

So i printed this and my bearings did not fir all the way on, but they still fit. One hole makes by bearing wabble but i did space the holes out a little. Over all i would print this if i was getting started with 3d printers, but i would give this a 7/10. The design is nice and small and spins perfect in my hand. Other than those things, i love the design.

I have a problem with this spinners. After a couple of hours after I assemble them they broke in the outer ring. I've tried increasing the size of the body up to 101.7% and the center bearing is almost loose but it keeps breaking even if I let them rest at a table.
I print them with 100% infill.

I printed this bro suh dude! It's really good. The tolerences are great.

May 8, 2017 - Modified May 13, 2017

Great design. I had to add 2% to fit my center bearing (the outside are a little loose but now my center one can fit). The thumb screws worked great at the default size. I also have problems with one side lifting off the table (not heated, PLA). I think there is just so little edge on that side that the 100% fill pulls it up.

The twisted center pins snapped off once when dropped. My kids wanted a slight dip in the center like the commercial ones. They say it is easier to balance then. I will see what I can do with the model.

Anyways, working great, thanks for the design.

Printed it on Anet A8, nice file, however the mesh definition could be increased a little bit, nor the H7 bearing fit well in it after a tiny sanding.

wow thats genuine

Thank you for this design. Of all the things I've printed, THIS is the one that gets my kids excited. They love it.

Comments deleted.
May 5, 2017 - Modified May 5, 2017

I'll have a group o kids coming to library to do these :) Couple of question: So does 6 shells in Cura mean "wall line count" 6? What about top leyers/bottom leyers? Also 6? Or zero, because infill is 100%? Any other great tips? What is the best oil after degreasing?

According to what I read the "number of shells" is dependent on your nozzle width, mine is 0.4 so to get "6 shells" I would multiply 0.4 * 6 = 2.4. That 2.4 then goes into Cura under "Shell" -> "Wall Thickness" -> "2.4". You can also make Cura show you "Wall Line Count" but if you change the number it will complain it's a calculated number so it's better to do the math yourself and change the wall thickness. You should see that "Wall line Count" has now updated to 6.

I printed a few of these with Cura 2.5.0, my settings are below and the spinner came out perfect on my Robo3D R1+.
Layer height: 0.15mm
Wall thickness: 2.4mm
Infill density: 100%
No support

All other settings were default for my printer type and the standard material settings for PLA in Cura.

What is the best oil after degreasing?

I would recorment some Lube Its better on Amazon you can find it but if you Will use oil use wd-40

Fantastic, 2 of my grandsons (7 and 6) asked for fidget spinners so i printed this one to test. Just got the bearings, THANK YOU. I'll be printing these for our kids.

My caps are constantly being broken, the twist pins are too weak, there's any configuration for strengthen it? :(

I actually found that with a .4mm nozzle, having more than one outer shell prevents any infill, even at 75% (may just be the Simplify3D slicer), makes the twist pins too WEAK! I recommend printing the finger pads at 100% infill with only one outer shell (i.e outer shell =0.4mm). That way it has more in-fill and is a bit stronger.

More shells/perimeters and use ABS, or even better, PETG. Don't force them and make sure to not over extrude so they assemble easily.

Please help! I printed the model, but it wouldn't print properly. One of the outer loops bunches up when I try to print the spinner, and when I finished the print, the bearing wouldn't fit in that thinner loop, even with more force than I used to put in the other bearings. It's frustrating! I've been making numerous copies to make sure it wasn't just that one spinner, and once again, as it prints that one loop slowly rises up and ends up not resting on the build plate. I have leveled the build place more than once, as well. Any ideas?

Note: I followed all the infill, shell, and layer suggestions, and still haven't gotten it to print properly.

i got exactly the same problem must have checked my bed about 10 times lol

So, did you find any effective solution?

Same problem. Apparently my bed is not 100% flat (spec of the table... I would have to buy a different table for it). I moved it around and found a spot where everything worked. Maybe consider a less than 100% fill too, I seem to remember hearing that the 100% fill could pull a little more on the extremities of a model.

I actually tried printing it either a raft, and minus the struggles to remove the raft from the spinner, it worked!

Which finger pad is better? The one with the twisted pin or solid pin? And why? Thanks!

The twisted ones will stay in more firmly but are also much harder to remove without breaking them.

Thx I had the same question

Thank you very much for sharing this cool design. I am getting a consistent issue with the center hole being too large. The outer 3 are just right. Use a small vice to pop them in. However the center hole is loose enough I can push the bearing right through with little resistance. Any reason why center would be loose and outer 3 just right?

Trying slowing down the speed and print somewhere else on the bed, Of course make sure the bed is leveled. There maybe some extra motion in that spot.

Hi people I printed one and found it hard to get the bearings in, but if you warm with a hot air gun (gently) the PLA softens slip your bearing in it hardens equals nice snug fit hope this helps

I used a similar technique @Skywoody! I used a soldering iron to heat up the plastic so that the bearings slide in easier. Check out my youtube video tutorial here: https://youtu.be/XF7dBDgrGAY. Also, I highly recommend these bearings for the center bearing http://amzn.to/2sbQIV4 as I now get over 2.5 minutes of spin time since the are full ceramic bearings. A tab bit expensive but well worth it.

Try a caliper to check the diameter. I needed to increase the model 2%.

Thanks Bud

Thanks, helped alot.

what diameter bearings

Comments deleted.

Maybe the build plate isn't level.

I leveled the build plate, and tried to make the print a couple more times, still to no avail.

What type of bearings should i use?

May 8, 2017 - Modified May 8, 2017
shawngiese - in reply to cbro9318

I hear that you can clean the steel ones to get the grease out, as long as you can remove the shield. Unfortunately I have a bunch of steel ones where the shield cannot come off (SG9 bearing). Apparently they are crimped on and are known to be "not serviceable". I'll use those as weights then. I've ordered some ceramic too but they are a bit pricey.

If you puncture the steel shield with a small knife along the inner ring you can pry the metal shields off in a few seconds. There is no putting them back on...but you can get them off to clean the grease out and lube with something better.

Ceramic Bearing would work great! I haven't tried it yet but i have one ordered. Much better quality than stainless steel bearings.

yes but if slight warping occurs, the bearings might not fit properly

How would I go about degreasing a set of bearings I have?

Remove the shields then drench with WD-40. Blow out the grease with an air compressor then put it in your spinner. Get your spinner up to like 20,000 rpm with the compressor and that will fling all the grease out. Put your caps on and your done!

I love the design, one thing that I would change on the caps is to have indents in them. I think that it would be a lot easier to grip with you fingers. I have printed over three now and my friends love them. Thanks for the design!

Hi, I really like your design and the twisted pins work great. Can you create a complete print with the twisted pin caps?

I put 4 608zzn but spinner don't turn , I have abec7

Take covers of degrease them then put some fine oil on them also make sure the thumb cap is not touching both the inner and outer ring of the bearing hope this helps

Use abec 11 with best reviews related to fidget spinners

Which cap do we use for the spinner?? The twisted one on both sides or something else

Both will work. The twisted caps are for more advanced 3D printers that are dialed in.

hi, great design. I had a few questions on your printer settings, what are the print settings you use? (layer hight, infill, number of shells, and temp)

thanks

For great results print this model at 0.15mm layers, 6 shells and 100% infill. Temp is all based of your filament used. My PLA prints well at 210C and bed at 55C

My student, Parker, made this and here are his comments:

The spinner turned out fabulous! it spins well but getting the bearings in was tricky due to how tight the bearing holes are. Overall its a great spinner and I recommend it for anyone. Thanks for the design.

Thanks Parker I'm very Happy you enjoy my designs. It brings a smile to my face when people leave positive messages.

Spin on, Mark

With a .4 nozzle/100 Infil/Cura Slicer/.15 layer height/6 walls, I'm seeing a few small gaps on the top layer in the center sections where the rings come together? Any suggestions to improve that? I'm assuming it's because the .4 width is just barely off based on the # of line settings and geometry.

Either .4 is too thin or your nozzle is too far from the bed. What size is your nozzle? Even a .35 should use .42 but can achieve less if things are really dialed in.

Does 6 walls mean 6 top/bottom layers in Cura? Or something else?

in cura it would be shell thickness or number of shells

So "wall line count" 6? What about top leyers/bottom leyers? Also 6? Or zero, because infill is 100%?

I did 4top and bottom layers.

You might be able to increase your flow rate by 10% to fill the small gaps.

I had the same problem.
Just use 3 perimeters and you will be ok.

seems to work, thanks!

Comments deleted.

Check out this great Tri Fidget Spinner HOLDER that I created specifically to hold these spinner!

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2260274

Tri Fidget Spinner Holder

Now I don't have to worry about ordering one

Can someone please confirm that the outer diameter of the bearings are 19mm? Thanks

Outside of the bearings are 22mm

I'm so glad I. Don't need to spend money on this stuff

The standard endcaps don't fit (too small) in the middle bearing for some reason. The twist ones work great, but I've had a maybe 40-50% break rate with the twist caps for some reason. I tried 20% infill and 100% infill and they still break about half the time. Any thoughts?

Not sure if this is the correct way but I super glued my caps together and they have been working great.

I love you and the spinner :)

i love you more

printed perfectly with no adjustments on my Robo 3D in ABS. Thanks!

Printed these for my kids, but they all cracked when trying to put in the standard bearings. :( Some are still usable, others just fell apart. Neat idea though!

I printed the base model at 102% model size, and left the thumb screws at 100%. Now my center bearing fits great but the putside ones need glue as they are just a little too big.

Apr 16, 2017 - Modified Apr 16, 2017

i have remixed this to hold 6 uk pound coins and a center bearing .. file will be in the remix section shortly.. works a treat with more weight

So cool, love the packers #mrfidgety

I got problems with my 0.4 mm nozzle but you don't need to change your nozzle.
Set in the software the nozzle diameter to 0.2 mm and the extrusion width to 0.24 mm and it works fine with the 0.4 Nozzle.

Just printed this Tri Fidget Spinner model on my Monoprice Maker Ultimate!

The bearings I used are Annic JU 608ZZ Ball Bearings, 8mm x22mm x7mm and they work great!
http://amzn.to/2nNujyO

Check out my video tutorial on how to make it: https://youtu.be/XF7dBDgrGAY

Thanks for a great model 2ROBOTGUY!

what is a good cheap bearing that is good for this design?

Hey hlambert9, see my comment above!

Does having the other 3 bearings on the outside make it spin longer than if it didn't have them?

ya it is called momentum

Just printed, very impressed. Thanks!

Details:
File- Ready to Print
Printer- Davinci 1.0
Filament- PLA
Infill Density- 50%

My student, Josue, printed this and here are his comments:

the spinner was good but i cracked when i put the middle bearing but i forgot to sand it so that's why it broke besides that its a good hand spinner

I like the design and it prints well. I wonder though the twisted pin caps. They are flat. Would you be able to make them contoured?. I do not know how to remix that file nor convert it to a scad file.

Apr 12, 2017 - Modified Apr 12, 2017

Great design , printed perfectly. I specially like the twisted caps design , works great. Had some chinese 608ZZ bearings and I had to increase the print for the centre caps to 103% to make them fit snuggly. I also wonder what spin times every one gets with steel or ceramic bearings.
I get on avg. 58 - 62 seconds.

@Mr Fidget Where did you buy the ceramic bearings for so cheap?

Fun stuff really

This thingy is great as a minimalistic spool holder. Just saying :)

Apr 9, 2017 - Modified Apr 9, 2017

Excellent design and printed nicely. . Disappointing 10sec spins. I put all cheap bearings I got off Amazon (30pk) because no way i'm spending almost $7 for a single bearing (for the middle) when you can buy $5 molded spinners that last over a minute off Etsy and Amazon. I cleaned the first one out with WD-40. Second one with Alcohol. 3rd I tried both of those. 4th one I went to the store and bought Lubricant from the auto section. Found some orange degreaser in the garage and tried that one another one, which made it noisy and seaze up after 6 seconds so I lubricated it and got around 13sec. I've tried a combination of all those to no better luck. Oh well, I'm over it- these aren't even that entertaining to me.

EDIT: couple hours later I tried the spinner again and it is at 35 seconds in spin. After degrease + alchohol bath then lubricant and wait

Use acetone to remove the grease, soak for an hour and keep moving it around. You will have better results.

Did you get the idea from Amazon?

How did you do it?

That's so cool!

Did you add metal to it?

Printer great and worked without a problem.
I did clean out the bearings with WD 40 and use an air compressor
nozzle to work in the bearings.
One student broke it by drop another used a hammer to press in
the bearings (not smart) smiles.
Lots of fun and learning here.
Thanks

if the bearing cavity is to tight will it cause it to spin less or damage the bearing?

I find it does bind the bearings a little bit. I scale them up to 101% and the bearing fit perfect and are easier to put in there.

What bearings are used? Do they have a description or a size or something?

skateboard bearings. Interesting history too

Annic JU 608ZZ Ball Bearings, 8mm x22mm x7mm http://amzn.to/2nNujyO

I believe the size is 608ZZ Ball Bearing 8mm x 22mm x 7mm

They are called bearings number 608

hey just want to make sure this prints on makerbot software and the machine as well

It works perfectly!

this is awesome design but could you plz make a version of the twisty cap that is the same thickness as the first one (and the first one needs to the the tiniest bit longer to prevent it from rubbing but other then that i have loved this and been using it for weeks

how did you get your spin so fast? what bearing did you use? my 608zz seem doggy does not spin like yours :p

remove the grease from the middle bearing and put oil on it instead

like olive oil

or transition flied but yar olive oil should be fine

awesome, when to youtube saw same thing was suggested, decreased and it spin!

Do you have the end cap dimensions? For some reason Inventor has all the numbers messed up. I was trying to recreate the model but add some small things.

whenever i download the file it wont let me print to my printer. it only lets me print to an online printing service. what do i do

Just open the STL in your slicer?! It's not different from every other part here on thingiverse.

Are you suppose to use the twisty cap or the regular one?

For me the regular caps where way easier to put in and maintenance.

Thanks for the great model! After I printed this out several of my friends asked me to make one for them. May I have your permission to sell them to my friends? Not online or in stores.

how do you put it together???Please help me.

Check out my video tutorial on how to put it together: https://youtu.be/XF7dBDgrGAY

Annic JU 608ZZ Ball Bearings, 8mm x22mm x7mm http://amzn.to/2nNujyO

You need to use a vice or large C clamp to force the bearings into the holes. They are a VERY tight fit, but if everything is the right dimensions it will slide in without cracking.

Hello, yesterday I made one of your fidget spinners and when I put the ball bearings in the middle one is a little loose. I was wondering what type of glue I should use or what should I do to fix it.

Superglue or 5 minute epoxy works well. Just understand once you glue them in it is hard to near impossible to remove them.

Are all of the bearings (including the center) the same weight?

They are all 608 bearings. People usually use a ceramic bearing for the center bearing that is typically lighter than the steel weight bearings. For a good long spin I suggest to balance the three weight bearings.

Would you mind if I sold some to my friends ?

I cant get the thumb twisty pieces to go together inside the bearing, just outside is there a trick?

You may need to file down the edge of the twist

I had to file it down. I connected them together and then used a dremel to shave off some of the outside of the pin.

hi, i know this could be a stupid question..but what kind of support do you use? (if you used any)

No support is required, side wall angles are less than 60 degree at the bottom

in one of your youtube videos you said that the outer weight bearings are worth 25 cents. where did you find this deal at ?

If you buy in bulk, 1000+ unit they cost ~$0.25. Smaller orders you can buy them for $0.40-0.35 each.

Thank you... this is a simple design yet incredibly good.
But i have a question. Is it ok with you, for me to sell these to freinds at school for money?

Go right ahead, post some pictures of your final products

Comments deleted.

What type of file is this? Like is it a .STL, or is it something else?

when you put in the bearings is it suppose to be hard to put in

Yes, but there are instructions on what to do if you can't make them fit. I used a rubber mallet to VERY GENTLY coax the bearings in.

Yes you are. Because you don't glue them they have to fit very precisely and you have to push it in hard

don't know but ive been getting the same problem

What sort of infil % is best for this?

My fidget spinner seems to be unbalanced. It shakes like crazy. All the bearings are the same and are level. One of the arms seems to be a tiny bit shorter (.5mm). I am not sure how to resolve the issue. Thanks.

Mar 28, 2017 - Modified Mar 28, 2017
Dammit - in reply to BradenDaGrom

Print it with 100% otherwise it will keep shaking

How much filament did it use

No more than 10 g

What weight did you use?

Is it ok for me to sell thes to my friend for money

i used skateboard bearings and had to scale it up to 110 and then had to hot glue the bearings in

Mar 22, 2017 - Modified Mar 22, 2017

Anybody had issues with the center bearing hole being just a little bit too big and not holding the bearing tight while the outer bearings are tight but still allow the bearings to go in? My temp is 195C and bed at 50C for PLA. Its at 100% scale as well.

Nope, bearings fit very well. All 4 were a solid press fit.

I am having issues with print overhang. Since the frame goes up and out my frame is not smooth on the outside. It is only smooth when the spinner isn't printing out but instead printing in. I know there is something up with the print settings I just don't know what.

My temperature for PLA is set to 200. Some filaments turn out better than others so it may be temperature. Would lowering the temp to 195 work better for improving overhang?

Fixed it by lowering temperature from 200C to 195C and bed from 60C to 50C

How do you screw the twist caps into the bearing?

Check out my video tutorial on how to put it together: https://youtu.be/XF7dBDgrGAY

Annic JU 608ZZ Ball Bearings, 8mm x22mm x7mm http://amzn.to/2nNujyO

They are friction fit. The design is really neat. If you print 2 they slide in together and sort of thread together but it's not really a thread. Print it and try it!

I just press them in with my fingers. Once they are in they are challenging to get out without breaking the caps.

Any chance you make it so that when it falls it doesn't break. Also can you make like star wars, Halo , other version fidget spinners.

it breaking is your filament

What is breaking? The frame or the caps?

Ive had caps break on mine. Not a big deal but the frame is pretty good so far.

what size ball baring is needed?

What are best setting with Cura for the print? I already printed one but it spin for a max of 5/6 seconds :'(

Best thing to do for this is remove the center bearing, remove the shields from it, and dunk and swish it around in some nail polise remover for about 1 minute. l blot it dry, let it complete drying, then give it a whirl. Do NOT remove the little silicon/rubbery washer-thing on one of the sides of the bearing. You can discard the shields, since they will be destroyed from being pried out of the bearing. My spinner went from about 6 seconds to just over a minute!

sounds like a bearing problem. From my experience they are a little tricky to degrease. Try using citrus based cleaners like goo gone

mine were sticking too. i just played with the bearings a bit to loosen them up

the main thing and I suggest the twisted finger pads

hey i was just wondering, what files do i need to print?

if you wanna do a complete one print this file TRI_SPINNERV2-_Ready_to_Print the others are more just incase something breaks you can print a one off

I really like the design but when I put the caps into the bearing they were a little hard to put in but then I got new bearings so I tried to take the caps out but it was hard and one of them broke any ideas on how to fix this and make it easier?

I just wanna stop and say that your new thumbpad design is brilliant. Simple, elegant and more functional that I expected just by looking at it.

Which are the required pieces for the design? There are very many? Is it only spinner, finger thing, and bearing cap?

TRI_SPINNERV2-_Ready_to_Print that would be the one if you wanted a complete, the other files are for one offs if something breaks

Is it hard to fit the bearings in? Also, do the ones you can buy on Amazon for $7 work?

I got the same bearings as @nbookworm and they work great without any degreasing, although now that I've seen that comment I'm tempted to go do the same thing to mine. I had to use a hammer to seat the bearings in the spinner, but one solid strike was all it took for each one and there was no problem.

Mar 28, 2017 - Modified Mar 28, 2017
nbookworm - in reply to RappmanD

I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BBD6X4/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

They say there are 30 in the package (for $9.98), but I got 32 in 4 flimsy tubes of 8. So I have a boatload of them left, but I'm planning to make more spinners as gifts, and am giving away 4 bearings to a friend.

If you get these, you should remove the shields on either side of the center bearing, and swish it around in nail polish remover to degrease it. Degreasing WILL make it spinn about 8 times faster.

They are supposed to be a tight fit and I would suggest yellow jacket bearings on amazon for the middle bearing and the cheap 7 dollar bearings for the outside ones

I used skateboard bearings. I had to scale up 1. did anyone else have this problem?

Anyone having issues putting the bearings in place? Read many of the comments. Using This 608ZZ bearing is a double shielded miniature ball bearing measuring 8x22x7. any tricks? Suggestions.

I occasionally sand the center bearing hole. Don't sand too much or the bearing will come out of place if dropped which will happen at some point in time.

use a vice, it makes it incredibly easy

agree with burtmacklin509 - the vice is a snap

What size are the bearings?

8 x 22 x 7, the normal size for skateboard or roller skate bearings.

What are he weights?

Mar 11, 2017 - Modified Mar 11, 2017

Where can I get the ceramic ball bearings?

Ebay has cheap hybrids.

Hi,

Do I need to do something with the center bearing. I bought a china one, and it just spins for about 5 secs then stop.

He clearly outlines the quality differences in the bearings. If you don't get a quality bearing, it will have poor spin for this application. I've been able to make the cheap 608zz's spin up to 60 seconds by degreasing long, as he suggests, but they still aren't as good as the Red's brand regular or Ceramic. You have to remove the outer shields of the cheap all metal ones with a small screw driver or pocket knife and soak in the degreaser for 30 minutes minimum (you can get engine degreaser from any auto shop or home depot - get the strong stuff). For a quicker fix, just spray some WD-40 into the bearing (again, you need to remove at least 1 shield/cover), but it won't be nearly as good as a full degrease.

I used nail polish remover for about 60 seconds with the same result. Hit up your moms, sisters, girlfriends (or yourself, if you are female, as am I). I don't know if straight acetone would be too strong or not.

Thank you, i saw the guy in this video (https://youtu.be/Uj1wNjH2Ytc?t=6m16s) using some kind of chemical (which you told me WD-40) for cheap bearings. Yeah I will try either degreasing or WD-40. I will post the result after finished.

Mar 10, 2017 - Modified Mar 10, 2017

So all you do is print the "parts" and provide your own bearings to insert? simple!

can someone please leave a link on good ceramic bearings

He points everyone to his video for that info but I dug it out: http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-10Pcs-608RS-Good-Roller-Skates-Ceramic-Ball-Inline-Skate-Bearings-Drift-Plate-/112178949409?var=&hash=item1a1e62ed21:m:mi2VrjjWIEdZyvYWdXXGoqw
Hope he doesn't mind me posting the link. That's what he used, but he basically just got the cheapest ceramic bearings he could find at the time.

Made one of these with a slight modification to use British 1 penny pieces instead of bearings around the outside - 4 fit in each slot.

This has made it slightly more weighty and damn does it spin!!

Mar 9, 2017 - Modified Mar 9, 2017

Is it ok to print some of these to sell to friends lol not on like eBay or something because I'm assuming these are illegal to sell, anyway would it be illegal to sell them on like eBay or something?

If you remix it, you could probably sell it.

Why would it be illegal? He says feel free to sell your own versions from his.

Oh ok I am thinking of setting up a Facebook page selling them and I can like put my own logo

Read the most recent license update. He modified it from earlier so that you must credit him for his design, but I don't think there is any other major restriction. Just consider that you will be well late to that party of selling these on fb or etsy, but there's probably still a buck or two to be made. Amazon has certainly been flooded.

If anyone is asking, if the holes are too big then you can stick an exacto knife in them to shave out a little of the plastic. Also one question, what oil should I use to put on the edges of the holes?

Do you mean if the holes are too small? And why would you need to oil the edges? I just press firmly and they pop in. Sometimes I use a pair of pliers and press the bearings in if the holes are a bit tight. Depends a lot on your printer and material.

Mar 14, 2017 - Modified Mar 14, 2017
jugboy - in reply to mastahype

Yea it is if they're too small and oiling the edges could help

I would use sandpaper to try and get the edges to be uniformly reduced.

Mar 9, 2017 - Modified Mar 9, 2017

2ROBOTGUY,
After reading just about all the comments I must commend you for your efforts, support, and design. Your spinner design meets its function with simplicity. Sounds like some promotional add I know but achieving both in a printable design is something that has always been impressive to me.

I was considering making a batch of these spinners to hand out to guests at my work. More of a (Hay look at this neat thing I made on my printer.) . I wanted to check with your first before doing so if that would be alright.

Keep up the good work
GenCab

Thanks for the kind words. I try my best to respond to and help everybody. You absolutely can print some for work. Please take some pictures and post them

I'd second the above and pass along thanks. I just happened across this while browsing thingiverse and decided to make for my kids. They were shocked I made something that has now become popular (but still niche) in their schools. Most kids have injection molded ones and none of them spin as fast as ours, thanks to your advice. I can get over 2 minute spins now.

Comments deleted.

Hey, I was wondering what program you used to model these. They are very well done and I want to attempt making weird designs. Thanks!

I model mostly in SOLIDWORKS. This model could have been done in any other solid modeling software such as Autodesk NX, Catia, or pro-e. The only hard part was designing the partial fillets around the edges. I accomplished this by doing a full face fillet and cutting the frame with two planes. I would suggest to learn SOLIDWORKS first. Many great tutorials online for free.

Isn't NX made by Siemens not Autodesk?

does anyone know what type of bearing you put in the middle

Standard 608ZZ Shielded 8x22x7 Miniature Ball Bearings used in this model. The center Bearing can be switched for a 608ZZ/C Ceramic Ball Bearing for increase spin time. (says in details)

Any tips on how to put the twisted caps in i just cant seem to get them to work but it works fine outside of the bearing

Wondering if you might have some suggestions. I am a noob to 3d printing and having a small issue printing this design. I am getting small gaps in the 3 areas around the center bearing. I am printing on a Creative Pro using replicatorG. I have made several adjustments to speed ect. trying to get them to fill in but nothing seems to be working. Any idea what this could be? Great design

few things in groups. They are grouped because they are like "stages"

~try redownloading file. It might be messed up.
~Print by SD card. If you already print by SD, redo it, or use the cable
~Put infill to 100% For me I only need 30%, but I hacked my extruder and it works magical.
~print at a really slow speed. Try 30mm/sec
~use the other nozzle. I looked up your printer and it has 2, so try the other

~post some pictures and stuff on a forum. The community is great. try the reprap forums: http://forums.reprap.org/list.php?262
~check your nozzle for jams
~look through all the settings in "replicatorg"
~Pull the filament out of the tube, inspect it, cut off the end,and put it back in
~print a print that has gone well in the past; it it works, it is the settings on the model. if not, the printer needs fixing

~LEVEL YOUR BED!!!!!!!! Check in "replicatorg" to see if it has it, if not, hand level it. try this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFvY4jjCsYI
~Are you using the right material? Start with PLA, then you can do the other stuff

~last of all--- find someone in your area who has more knowledge, and see if you can get their help. yeah.

If you want more, or it went well, leave another comment here or email me: [email protected]

Thanks! Didn't think about redownloading the file...will try your suggestions. Hopefully something will work.

What is your print settings? Layer height, number of shells, infill percent, print speed?

Thanks for the quick response! I have done 80%-100% infill, I did 8 shells(I saw you recommend that in a post), Layer height .15mm and tried .20mm. Last go I did feedrate of 30 and travel feedrate of 80 (i have tried a few variations of this). print temp of 220 and the bed at 50.

Please post a link to pictures of your prints and I might be able to help. All your settings seem good.

Comments deleted.

This problem occurs when your filament diameter is smaller than 1.75mm or your nozzle diameter is not set right. If you have digital calipers measure the filament, I beat it is 1.65-1.70mm. Bump up your flow rate to %105 and reprint.

could you make me one please

Hey, really cool design, I was just wondering how big the holes are for what size bearings I should get, thanks.

they are 608 bearings, AKA skateboard bearings, outside diameter 22mm

Great design, thanks for sharing! Any tips on pressing the bearings in place? I'm getting a lot of scuff marks on the plastic.

Did you try sanding it down?

I did but with the bearings in, didn't want to get dust in them. Wondering if there was a tool that can help avoid the clamps from touching the piece.

Rlly love this design. What infill setting did u use?

80-100% with 3+ shells

I degreased the bearings with alcohol, orange cleaner, soap water, etc and then quickly used a hair dryer to dry it. It was working great for a few days but now my bearing is starting to squeak. Any ideas?

After degreasing bearing you should add some oil to prevent corrosion and reduce noise. I use Blue Juice Valve Oil ( http://amzn.to/2mUunZi ) or Singer Machine Oil, 4-Fluid Ounce ( http://amzn.to/2mtgNPg )

I use bicycle gear oil

how do i degrease the bearings? need help with that

I do a lot of downhill and we always use acetone or mineral spirits

with Goo Gone and compressed air

Comments deleted.

im having trouble with the first layer. It's all a mess. i need help!

I'm printing them with a Monoprice 3D printer

I've printed them on that printer, what is the issue this model is giving you?

i figured it out. just level the bed

Robert, I'm printing on the Monoprice maker select v2. My prints are coming out very nice once I checked my bed level. The first layer was good an the layers after that were a mess. If I had to guess, either your too tight to the print bed or you're having extrusion problems. Shortly after I got my printer I started having first layer issues. Turned out that the set screw on the extruder gear was loose so it wasn't pushing the filament through. I am no expert in 3d world just a beginner but wanted to share my experience just in case it could help.

thanks my man! the issue was the bed level. I'm having good prints so far.

this better not fale because of how it's shaped

Did you mean fail? If so, no it will not. Print at 0.15mm layers

Just noticed that there is now a non-commercial restriction on this license. Not cool to switch after telling everyone differently. Fortunately, I downloaded this file before the change. But just a heads up for anyone who is subsequently downloading this.

I switched the licence to hopefully try to make people uses these files correctly. Looking online I see many people selling this model (That is ok with me), but not providing attributions and using my pictures. Almost a bait and switch if you ask me. Please tell me a better way to make people play by the rules of creative commons? If there a better license to choose?

I am interested in printing and selling these locally (if that is okay with you) with the understanding this not my design, but am just printing them. Is there a good way to give you a kickback if I make any money on it. Paypal perhaps?

You absolutely can sell them locally. Take some pictures and post them on this page. Above in the comments I have my PayPal linked to donate

Okay that makes sense, but with with this license in place it as it is, suddenly everyone is a criminal and pretty confusing.. if you're letting people sell the item then it can't have that license..

I think a better way would be to put a feint watermark across the pictures, in the top of the description make a note that any listing must be clearly marked with your name and contact the sellers advising them of this.

After what happened with Aria the dragon everything needs to be clearly labeled to avoid confusion. The symbols on thingiverse aren't enough as many people would be unfamiliar with them and their meanings :) -Katie

Comments deleted.

Are the 3 outside bearings functional, or there simply for weight?

They are functional, but I would recommend getting very cheap bearings for the outside. This is because no one really uses them. Thier main purpose is for weights.
BTW - You don't need the outside bearings but it spins much better with them in

my friend prints everything for me do you think is should get the Prusa I3 MK2 you have or should i wait as is there a hyped up printer thank you.

The Prusa I3 MK2 is the best printer I have ever owned. I highly recommend the machine.

I love my Prusa i3 Mk2, I myself design my own spinners, and they come out great everytime.

I made over 30 of them to sell to my friends i will post pictures soon they look super great

how do i get the baring grease off?

Do you mind if i make and sell these? Using your model.

Is it possible to put this into 2d design and use a laser cuter instead of a 3 printer

Yes, download the DXF file.

do you mind if i sell these models to people around my neighborhood? because I dont have the money to give these away for free with bearings in them to friends.

No go ahead and sell them to your friends. Please post some pictures of your products

What settings do you recommend for ABS printing? I've printed several with PLA and they turned out great (220 for extruder and 110 for bed). I tried ABS (230 for extruder and 110 for bed) but it doesn't print out as smooth. Any suggestions? I tried increasing the temperature to 240 and it did the same thing.

Comments deleted.

Why isn't MakerBot printing holes on spinner?

Is all the equipment needed printed or do you need to buy some things seperatly ?

No, you will need to buy 4 bearings and press them in place. Try to find cheaper 608 bearings for the three outside ones and a premium center bearing. Ceramic bearings or bones red bearings are good center bearings. http://amzn.to/2lNWo7m

Do the cheaper 608ZZ bearings work well for the center? Can't find the 608ZZ/C bearings. Any advice? Thanks!

Yes the cheap 608zz bearing will work for the center but they are crunchy at times. I have played with the bones red bearing and like them as an alternative to ceramic. http://amzn.to/2lNWo7m

Comments deleted.

Why ban them though. If they are the same what's the difference?

Why would you post this here? This is the most popular Fidget Spinner model online.

Where is a cheap place to get bearings? They seem a little expensive for what they are.

Comments deleted.

Never had worse tolerances on a print before.

Are you having trouble printing this model? Somebody made a remix of my model at 103% if your machine is printing fat. My Prusa I3 MK2 prints this model perfectly.

Considering my machine prints everything else to proper scale and I've printed others fidget spinners perfectly fine. I would either blame your stl with my slicer or just the stl in general. What are the tolerances that you designed into the model?

I did not model in tolerance into this model. All holes are 22mm. I have printed over 200 frames now with no problems. What slicer and 3D printer are you using?

Ok at this point slicer and printer doesn't even matter because you have not modeled any tolerance into the model. I am using a Robo 3D R1 with MatterControl. 3D printer modeling basics They don't print exact, give tolerances.

Try this model 103 larger. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2071403

Tri Spinner V2 Scaled

Nah I printed the other models with the proper tolerance instead.

Can I sell for a fundraiser?

Ya sure. Post some pictures of your products. And if you feel compelled, you can donate a couple of dollars to me for the model

Curious.....I've printed a few...tried different center bearings (Red's, the ceramic you recommended, couple of others) and I can't get it to spin for more than 15ish seconds on a flat surface. Would you have any insight on what adjustments might be needed?

Degrease and remove the center bearings shields. You should see your spin times at least tripple

I soaked my bearings in acetone for 24 hours first to remove the grease. I get about 35 seconds or more on a good spin on a flat surface. also press the bearings in place with a vise. beating the bearings into submission only dents the metal the bearings spins on.

Make sure your fidget spinners are balanced. If one bearing is slightly higher than the others it can throw the who spin out of balance. With stock red my spinners go for 30-45 seconds.

Do you remove lubricant also?

I degrease my center bearing but usually add sewing machine oil.

This is awesome, thanks so much!

What z-resolution should it be, and how long does it take to print at that resolution?

I have a Prusa i3 MK2, and am planning on making them party favors

The frame will take about an hour to print. I also print on a Prusa I3 MK2. 0.15mm layer, 8 shells 90-100% infill stock 40mm print speed. Use glue on the bed. The twisted caps print at the same setting, they take 20 min each to print

is that horizontal shells, or vertical shells? I have not had my printer for very long, and i do not know the difference...

I printed the caps and frame in 10 minutes with .2mm and 20% infill and aquanet on a heated bed at 70c. also i printed with PLA at 200 degrees celcius and a flow rate of 90 so the smaller prints (the caps) don't get all melty and globby :)

Should I print the twisted caps, or normal caps?

The normal cap is easier to print, the twisted cap is alittle harder but will not fall out. Try them both

When I printed this, I could not get my bearings to fit inside. Any idea on a solution?
I printed at 100% scale with .15mm and 15% infill

Use a vise to slowly press the pieces together. use cloth on the vise so you don't scar the spinner and bearing.

Scale up the model to 103% and print again

Good idea on the new caps, but you can't put 2 of them together. They are too long.

I'm having the same issue on a printrbot at 0.1mm resolution.

They work perfectly on my Prusa I3 MK2.what machine are you printing on and at what z resolution?

Flashforge creator pro. .20mm

what size ball barring do i need

608zz skateboard ball bearings. 22mm diameter x 7mm tall

how many finger caps do you need to buy to have it on both sides??

Two finger pads to have them on both sides

Feb 18, 2017 - Modified Feb 18, 2017
Robbie_flash - in reply to 2ROBOTGUY

thanks :)
for replying
ow and one more thing what version should i buy of the spinner
and what are those pins on v2 of the spinner for

How do i make the wholes bigger for my bearings i tired hot water it won't work. Instead it made it smaller what should i do.

When will the new center piece be updated like the one you showed in the new video? Thanks

When do you expect to post the new models? Im very excited but I'd like to know an estimate. Hours, days, weeks? I thank you and the community thanks you.

New finger pad design has been added

Any update on the caps fitting better? I just printed this and the caps are very loose in the bearing hole. They just fall out. They do not press fit to the center of the bearing at all.

I just added a new finger cap design.

I'm going to post new models soon. Have you tried scaling the model up some to make them fit better?

I will give scaling it up a try. Guess start at 1% increase and see how that does.
Awesome design by the way.

How tall is the frame? Thanks!

what resolution do you recommend? Does it matter?

Do I have to print the finger pad separate or does ot automatcally print on the spinner

You must print all 3 parts (Frame and 2 finger pads), install bearings, and the the finger pads

How big are the bearing inserts?

Do I have to print the finger pads separate or do they print onto the fidget

i use print studio to convert my files for my idea maker 3d40 and it always distorts the size, so help pls

How do?

what are the thing in the 3 outside holes that act like wights

Nickels also fit well.

608 standard skateboard ball bearing

How do these work?

It's a tool to fidget with. Similar to clicking a pen when you are bored. Check out this video https://youtu.be/NOGPQmb8KG8

Feb 13, 2017 - Modified Feb 13, 2017

How much filament does it need to print? In feet or in grams without the bearings and counterweights

The frame weights 7 grams of PLA filament @ 100% infill.

Ok thanks man! Would you mind if I sold some of these to some of my friends?

No go head and sell them to your friends. Take some pictures and post them here. If you do make some money and want to donate a couple of bucks for future projects, my PayPal donation link is http://bit.ly/2kbP40C

How much does it weigh in ounces

52g or 1.83oz

Can anyone remix this to use something like a 1/2" nut instead of the 3 outside bearings?

Send me the specs on the 1/2 nut and I'll work on it this weekend.

Feb 11, 2017 - Modified Feb 11, 2017
kferg55 - in reply to 2ROBOTGUY

I was thinking just a simple 1/2" one like this
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/36110?r=~|categoryl1:%22600000%20Fasteners%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%22600072%20Nuts%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%22608621%20Hex%20Nuts%22|~

and i did find this one, but i saw one before with a larger hex nut and i think it would work better
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2078940

Thanks!

M8,M10,M12 Hexnut Fidget Spinner
by RoPa

the cap for the bearing does not work, it presses down on the bearing slowing it down, I love everything else though, please fix the cap

Try taking the seals/shields off

What fill would you recommend?

I always print mine at 100% infill. To make the part really strong set the shells to 20 for a conical infill.

ummm i need some help printing these can u send my the speeds and stuff/infill/everthing ???

Do I have to separately print the caps for the center bearing? If so, what are the dimensions and how many do I need?

The center bearing is a purchase item, can't print them yet

Love it! Any tips for degreasing the bearings?

Orange degreaser and then clean with 70+ rubbing alcohol. I would suggest to add some sewing machine oil into the bearing after cleaning. Rust = bad

How do you apply the degreaser to the bearing races? How do you remove the seals?

What size did you make it in? Would the bearing fit without resizing?

how to u make the bearing hole bigger i am using tinker card

what program did u use to create this???

Hi which printer do you use to print this, and PLA gives best results?
Thanks!

Hey just wondering what PLA you use to make these

Standard run of the mill PLA. Try to find a reputable brand with tight filament diameter tolerance of +/-0.05mm or better. Good Plastic in = Good product out

Question about the bearings - for the 608ZZ counterweight bearings - Does it matter what ABEC number those are if the middle one is ceramic? I'm trying to save on cost and maximize on spin time here. Thanks!

No it does not matter. Buy the lowest cost bearings for the counter weights. Buy a decent middle bearing. Happy spinning

Can you get these bearings from skateboards?

Yes, 608 bearing are the standard bearing used in skateboards.

Do you mind if i start selling these at a local skate shop and maybe later on at a learning express? I love the desin, and it's simple so there isn't much that could change, and a local skate shop owner wants to partner with me and sell them!

Feb 5, 2017 - Modified Feb 5, 2017
2ROBOTGUY - in reply to renefloresvlogs

No go head and sell them locally. Take some pictures once you have them displayed in the shop. If you do make some money and feel compelled, my PayPal donation link is http://bit.ly/2kbP40C

THANKS!!! sounds good. They would be up in a few weeks. And yeah once i make some bucks i'll donate :)

A little bit confused about one part of the drawing - What is the dimension of the cap with the pin? How high above the surface of the cage does it go on both sides? Does the cap go inside each hole where the bearing is? Thanks - sorry for the newbie question - just trying to 3d print it.

The pins on the finger pads "caps" go in the center ball bearing. They have a slight taper and should fit snuggle in the bearings. Once the finger pads are pressed in there should be a 0.25mm gap on both sides of the bearing. I'm working on a new finger pad design right now that should be released this week.

Thanks 2RobotGuy! A few follow up questions to your response:

  • The 0.25mm gap on both sides of the bearing - I'm trying to figure out where the gap is that your referring to - is this between the finger pad that is put one side and the other?
  • Do you have dimensions of the finger pad like the cage? I'm trying to calculate the mm for the pin and the cap so that it fits snugly into the bearing.
Feb 3, 2017 - Modified Feb 3, 2017
2ROBOTGUY - in reply to Mykeyz

Q :The 0.25mm gap on both sides of the bearing - I'm trying to figure out where the gap is that your referring to - is this between the finger pad that is put one side and the other?
A : The pins were designed longer than the bearing to add a natural 0.25mm gap between the finger pad and the out side of the bearing.

Q : Do you have dimensions of the finger pad like the cage? I'm trying to calculate the mm for the pin and the cap so that it fits snugly into the bearing.
A: No I do not have a drawing of the finger pad at this time. Here are the dimentions. The pin is 8mm dia at the base with a 1 degree taper and 3.55 mm long. The finger pad are 19 dia and 1.5mm thick

Thanks 2RobotGuy - that's very helpful!

  1. My fingerpad keeps going above the surface of the cage - the height and diameter seems to be my problem but I'm not sure what the dimensions are

  2. Also - I saw a video where you light the bearings - is this necessary? What is the effect this has?

Q: My fingerpad keeps going above the surface of the cage - the height and diameter seems to be my problem but I'm not sure what the dimensions are
A: See above

Q: I saw a video where you light the bearings - is this necessary? What is the effect this has?
A: I would suggest not the heat up your bearing. It is not necessary if you have a good print / 3d printer. Some people heat parts up to make it easier to press them into place. Good printer = Good parts = happy user = less frustration = better results

Are the middle-bearing-covers supposed to just slide off? I tried hot-gluing them, but the hot glue wears off kind of quickly. Anyone try bumping up the resolution on the covers to make it a snap-fit?

Feb 3, 2017 - Modified Feb 3, 2017
2ROBOTGUY - in reply to NarWhat

No they should be a snug fit. I have been working on an optimized bearing covers I will post soon.

Hm, interesting. I did the all-in-one print with both covers and the skeleton, and they slipped right off. Gonna try reprinting with slightly higher res tonight and see how it goes.

hey if i want to make my own what size are the holes foe the bearings

608zz bearings are 22mm OD, 8mm ID, and 7mm tall

Is there anything else I can use to replace those outer bearings

Check out my penny Tri spinner. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2067044

PENNY TRI SPINNER - Fidget Toy

I'm sorry I'm new to 3D printing how do I actually print it ? Also what is put in the middle like the plastic this is it just another bearings?

Do you own a 3D printer? Yes a bearing goes in the center of the spinner also.

It looks like the "ready to print" model is tilted ever so slightly off flat (<1degree). Take a look at a sliced model without raft, you'll see what I mean. If you use a program with a "lay flat" option, use it before slicing.

I printed the spinner and ordered the specific bearings. But I noticed that the center hole is a bit smaller than the others. Is that normal? I can't increase size of stl file

All holes are 22mm diameter. It might be something with your printer?

I haven't measured it but the outer holes look larger.

I forgot to mention, will these caps work on any fidget and do they fit into each other or snap on?

Also, do you have to put a cap over the middle bearing or no?

Hey 2RobotGuy, what program did you use for this fidget. Also, is there a way to make my teacher not know this is a file? Please message me back here or at [email protected]

Jan 24, 2017 - Modified Jan 24, 2017

Really good toy!!!

what size of bearing do you need

22mm OD, 8mm ID, 7mm tall. Standard skate bearings (608zz)

Jan 23, 2017 - Modified Jan 23, 2017

Where do you get the bearings and what type do you need for this print?

Search for 608zz bearing online. There are alot of vendors. For the outside bearing weights I use 608zz from vxb.com. For the center bearing I use a ceramic bearing from eBay. They spin longer and smoother. Check out thid video for more information. https://youtu.be/vLL-T4Z_TNo

Can I get these bearings in stores rather than online?

Yes, skate or sporting store should have them. 608ZZ bearings are the most standard bearing used in inline skates and skateboard.

So If my barrings aren't going in with a lot of force I need to increase the size?

Yes, increase the size of the STL to increase the hole size. Your flow rate is set too high causing excess filament to be deposited on your part. I call this printing fat or rich.

And the only problem was the middle bc after it snapped i tried doing one of the ends and it went in fine with the help of a vise

Hmm that is wierd, all of the holes were modeled at 22mm dia . If one hole is too small they all should be. Make sure you are pressing the bearings in from the top of the print. Sometimes bottom layers are more compressed causing smaller holes.

Yeah after it snapped I just saw if it would work and it dissolved I'm not too sure. So do you just recommend increasing 1-2%?

Increase the model by 2% and see how the bearings fit. 2% would increase the bearing holes by 0.44mm

Comments deleted.
Jan 13, 2017 - Modified Jan 13, 2017

I tried to print it with 20% infill with the honeycomb and it seemed unbalanced, tried agin with 100% infill and it was perfect, bearings fit perfect aswell

I would suggest to print 3+ shells and 75% infill. I have experienced unbalanced issue due to the outside bearing weight not being one a level plane causing a moment force on the main bearing. Worth a look.

100% worked perfect for me! thanks anyways i appreciate it!

Does it print the buttons too Or do I have to print them separate?

Yes you can print the finger pads (buttons) with or without the Cage. There is a model called ready to print with all 3 parts or you are able to download them individually..

What are is the size of your bearing in CM?

Cm = computer model? The bearings are standard skateboard 608zz. 22mm in diameter and 7mm tall.

ah. Thanks :)

ah. Thanks :)

Where do you buy the bearings? I bought some bearings online, and no matter what I do, I can't get enough of the grease out so that they spin freely.

Thanks!

Dec 4, 2016 - Modified Dec 4, 2016
danoliver - in reply to rickseiden

I think you were probably using steel bearings. If you buy ceramic, a little more expensive, you'll see a huge improvement in spin time. Oh, and you can get them on Amazon. Search for 'ceramic bearings' (you can use the steel bearings you have—ABEC-1, probably—to add weight to the arms, so you haven't wasted any money).

Do the Ceramic bearings come greased? I know that cuts down on spin time. And it was a pain to try and decrease the steel bearings I had.

Before I found this model, I've been using a 608zz bearing as my fidget toy by itself, and now it spins very freely :-) Keeps you busy while the printer runs too!

No. I think a small amount of oil is added, but these things have so little friction that they go, and go, and go, and go, and go ... well, you get the idea.

Really like the rounded edges on this one. Gonna get plenty of miles out of it, thank you!

Glad your enjoying it

Nice little print. Took 30 minutes. Had to increase the scale 1 percent so the bearings would fit but it is manifold and does print well.

Comments deleted.

Worked great; printed straight from file with no alterations and worked perfectly with standard 22mm skateboard bearings. Had to use vice to press bearings into print but once in they were stuck firm with no glue needed, and plastic didn't crack or bend anywhere. Would recommend using 100% fill for extra strength. Total print time was around 1hr30mins on ultimaker 2.

Is there a video of one being used?

Could you send me a free one for an experiment? If you agree, please send it to Argentina, Escuela La Salle Secundaria. If you don' t agree, no problem, nice work. Thanks

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