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Anet v1.0 & v1.1 Mainboard Cover with 40/50mm Fan

by Leo_N, published

Anet v1.0 & v1.1 Mainboard Cover with 40/50mm Fan by Leo_N Oct 2, 2016

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Summary

This is my first contribution to the Anet printer community.

It is well known that the Anet mainboard needs cooling for safer usage.

I designed this cover and fitted a 40mm fan to cool the mainboard, specifically for the components with heat sinks.
All wiring and connectors are accessible without having to remove the cover.

To mount the fan to the cover use 4 x M3x18 screws, 4 x M3 nuts and 8 washers.

You can use the same 4 screws holding the mainboard to the frame to mount the cover if you have an Anet A8 printer.
I would recommend test fitting the screws before mounting the cover to the frame. Be careful not to break the pegs.
The holes for the screws are printed in 3 mm diameter. You might need to use a 3mm drill bit if the screws fit too tight. This depends on the tolerances of your printer.

I recommend using a Scythe Mini Kaze Case FAN 3500rpm fan.
It is hooked up to the 12V input "Power Supply" on the mainboard.

Please view the pictures for more details.

I hope this cover is useful to others.

If you made one please also post a picture of your setup with the cover.

Thanks.

Leo

Update 14.01.2016:
I've included a version for a 50mm fan which is mounted on the outside. You will need M4 screws. This thing is still work in progress.

Update 20.01.2016:
I've included two new files (40mm and 50mm) to fit the newer Anet mainboard v1.1.

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

RepRap

Printer:

Anet A8

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

0.2

Infill:

25%


Notes:

0.8 shell thinkness

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How do I connect the cover to the mother board?

Please read the "Summary" and take a look at picture #5 in particular.

IS the fan meant to be pushing air in or pulling it out?

The fan must push the air on the mainboard.

I may of intalled teh fan the wrong way round, can I invert the polarities?

No because the fan is designed to work one way only. You will have to remount the fan.

how you press the reset button?

Mar 17, 2017 - Modified Mar 17, 2017
Leo_N - in reply to Piero87

Maybe you can find a cover under "remixes".

I use a power switch for emergencies.

where do i plug the fan into? straight to the p/s?

I hooked it up to the 12V input terminals on the main board that is coming from the power supply.

Can I suggest making the filet diameter at the base of the legs larger? I know there isn't a lot of room, and it definitely isn't 100% necessary, but I'm usually a very careful person and I ended up snapping a leg off without very much force.

Either way, thank you so much for this, and thanks for the 50mm version.

You're welcome.

You probably didn't pre-thread the legs first. By doing so you can hold into them more securely. Afterwards the screws go in much more easily.

Oh, I meant before any of that. I broke a leg off by grabbing it wrong. Though, now that I think about it, I might have set the infill too low so it wasn't secured enough to the base.

Hey Leo,

would it be possible, to also publish a version for the new mainboard?

As you can see, the POWER IN connectors are much further to the edge than the first mainboard version
New: https://www.china-gadgets.de/app/uploads/2017/01/Mainboard-Germany-736x491.jpg
Old: http://www.anet3d.com/uploads/allimg/160705/1-160F50ZP1192.JPG

I didn't realize the "new" mainboard isn't compatible. I don't have the new board but I will try to get the dimensions (plug locations) using the pictures. I should have a updated version online tomorrow.

thank you!

Files uploaded. Please print, test, make a picture for me as feedback if everything fits.

Hey Leo,

edited version is fine, regarding the new position for Power. But 2 things changed from first version:

  • First layer is not hollow at the holes for the Fan
  • The text is also written on the first layer. First of all, that doesnt look good because to small, and secondly its mirrored.

Oh boy, I goofed :-( Sorry about the text. I corrected it and uploaded it again.

The first layer on the holes is done on purpose. This is to make the first layer print in one stroke thus giving it a clean top finish.
Because the layer is very thin you should easily be able to pock the screw threw it. Or maybe just take a pointy object to accomplish the same.

Im gonna print it, but maybe not this week anymore. But thank you!

Any chance of a 50mm fan version? I seem to have more of those hiding in spare parts bins than I do 40mm fans.

I'll take a look. It will have to be mounted on the outside though. Stay tuned....

I took at stab at it, currently printing this: https://tinkercad.com/things/aWQNySoEhhf

I think the holes are placed such that I can play with the geometry placing it under the cover, but I don't know what I'll run into having never seen the clearance of yours in person. If indeed the fan needs to go on the outside, the mounting could be closer to the shroud. Thanks for all your designs, great work!

Nice. I'll be making one for 50mm as well....

The current placement of the fan prevents the user from being able to press the reset button on the main board. I would suggest, and will do it myself once I get a chance, is to raise the fan higher, angle it down at a 45 degree angle, so it blows downward and across the board. This would allow a hole to be placed in the center of the cover, just above the reset button, big enough for a finger. I guess an extension rod could be printed and protrude thru a small hole and sit atop the reset button too. Just a suggestion. I use the reset button as the quickest way to stop my Anet A8 if things go awry. I really need to have access to it.

It wasn't particularly easy, but I soldered a couple wires onto the onboard reset button and drilled through this fan cover to install my own momentary reset push button. There's an area in the bottom right of the mainboard that doesn't have any components so there's plenty of clearance for the back of the new switch. Works great and I can find it easier, all while keeping my fingers off the mainboard. I wouldn't necessary recommend this unless you have some soldering experience with tiny components. Try this at your own risk.

Thanks for the suggestion. Where there is a will there is a way.

The design was created for optimal airflow and thus sacrifices the reset button. I have actually never needed the reset button. My recommendation would be to install a switch on the power supply side. Only that way will you have the safest method of stopping a print instantly.

However, I will take another look at an option to make the reset button accessible. Right now I'm on vacation :-)

Jan 20, 2017 - Modified Jan 20, 2017
CeroXtreme - in reply to Leo_N

+1 for reset model

Anet V1.0 Motherboard cover with 40/50 mm fan adapter and reset button.
by smat06
Comments deleted.

I went ahead and did a remix http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1805668

Anet V1 Mainboard Cover with 40mm Fan with helper discs
Oct 3, 2016 - Modified Oct 3, 2016

Awesome...great design!

On the little arms that poke out...I suggest some soft of built in bed adhesion pads (I guess called helper discs...from makerbot...but you could easily put something similar in your design manually http://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2013/04/19/keep-corners-flat-with-makerwares-helper-discs )...I just printed and even on my A8, with ABS juice 95% of all my prints stick like glue...but these the long big flat parts pulled up on the edges

Cool..guy has different sizes already made
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:217725

and/or recommend people print with a healthy brim to prevent curling

Helper Disc Supports Rafting Decrease Warping Corners

IMO if you have your printer setup correctly then the steps you mentioned should not be necessary at all.

Adhesion should be the same on any area of the heat bed. Check your heat bed to make sure it is flat and not in in way warped. The slightest warp could cause your issues. Also check your bed temperature to prevent curling.

In my case the part stuck to the heat bed very well and I had to give it some force to pry it off.

Anyway, the part is working great for me. All the components with heat sinks are now cold.

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