Ikea Lack raiser and window holder

by Latzenpratz Oct 8, 2016
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What is the thickness of the glass?

It fits 3mm acryl, for the 5mm you have to file down the pin...

Your *_2loch.stl files are a bit broken it seems. Importing them into slic3r (Prusa Edition) slicer results in the sliced version to have a small gap just below the 2 holes for one of the files. The other one even builds a 1 layer bridge right in the corner. For it it was fixed by simply importing your STL into tinkercad and exporting them again to a STL file. No further changes needed. That also resulted in much smaller STL files...

Amazing set ! Thanks a lot @Latzenpratz !
Printed flawlessly with Anet A8
Very decent print on 0.4mm with 10% infill.
Time needed for the 4 biggest parts : 2:45 x 4
Time needed for the 4 others parts : 40 x 4
Total project printing time : 13 hours and 40 minutes

Wow, that is damn fast! Which speeds and which material did you use? Which infill pattern? I'm currently printing that stuff, tweaking my settings all the time and trying to achieve some faster printing times... still, not even close to the times you got oO and I have the Anet A2 which should be even able to go a bit faster than the A8, because it has a bowden extruder. Because looking at the photo, it looks very clean and good, not even like you did the speed vs. quality tradeoff...

EDIT: Ok, I did not exactly print this 10cm version, but the 15cm remix from here (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2476756) because the Anet A2 is a bit higher than the A8. But e.g. the 4 other parts are the same size, took me about 1h and 10minutes now, for just 1 of them... and the quality suffered a bit so I'm lowering speeds a little bit for the next print again.

IKEA LACK raiser with window holder (remix)

I used white PLA from Geetech with standard infill grid pattern and 60mm/sec for the print speed.
Oh, and I used Cura.
The time needed informations I provided came from the slicer.
I didn't paid attention to the real time, but it's slightly higher.
Shame I didn't kept an eye on my watch... it tooks maybe 50mn for one of the 4 smaller parts.

Thanks for your answer! Ahh ok, just found out where the huge difference comes from. It's not the slicer, but your layer height of 0.4mm... So you changed your nozzle size (to which size?)? Or do you still print with the standard 0.4mm nozzle? Is extruder clicking a thing for you? I sometimes get this when I'm trying to print faster, also when I try to increase the layer height too much (max ist 0.3mm I can print with my 0.4mm nozzle before that happens). Wondering if a bigger nozzle would help with that...

i work in a glass factory any reason i couldn't use tempered glass?

could be too heavy... the original lack enclosure has kindy weak hinges. If I would build it again, I would Change that. Second, with plastic glass you can lift the whole enclosure without Problems, don't know if it would be possible with real glass. If you get your glass for free or very very cheap, pls try and report :) If not, I wouldn't bother.

What are the best hinges to use with this?

I am faced wth a problem. a while back i added a tensioner


sadly this makes the unit far too wide, does anyone know of a tensioner that will not make the unit too wide to fit the lack enclosure


Anet A8 X-belt Toothed Idler Tensioner
by butchja

Good idea but poor execution - there's are no moving hinges for opening front door and if you screw it down, there's no way to access the printer by lifting the table. And if you don't screw it down, the glass will just fall out thought the holder if the top table is lifted.

Also the riser models have a gap and shifted layer about 2/3 height, this needs to be fixed before printing.

Hallo! Habe gerade den ersten Satz gedruckt. Ging alles sehr gut und wird morgen verbaut. Danke für Deine Arbeit! Habe mal 5$ auf die Reise geschickt. Das reicht für nen Kaffee, damit Du weiter schöne Sachen designen kannst.

Vielen Dank! Wird in Hopfentee investiert!


Thanks for this, I just have one question. I have 3 of the raisers printed and will print the 4th tomorrow. I was wondering what you do for the countersunk screws? The cork or whatever it is that the legs screw into doesn't extend past the leg so the screws just go into the thin top layer? I feel like that would rip off eventually? I was thinking of making an outline of the bottom of the raisers and printing 5mm or so with a hole or two where the legs are located so that I can use it as a bracket that screws into the cork and then gives me something solid to screw the raisers into. Any thoughts? Does it just work fine as is? Am I missing something? :P

Hi! These paper tables are sturdier than i thought... i built mine about 2 years ago, no problems till now...

Ahh ok thanks for the reply. Last night I printed a bracket I designed to go with your raisers that screw into the cork type stuff the legs screw into and allow you to slide the top table over it and hold it in place. I don't plan on creating an actual enclosure any time soon, just using the tables for storage so I would rather have it easily removable. I did add some holes for heat set screw inserts that go under your mounting holes so that I can screw it down into something more solid and avoid drilling the table again when I do add the plexiglass in the future. Came out pretty well. Thanks again for your design, works great.

Can you please share your design ? I also plan to have my table removable. Thank you !

Let me know what you think!


Lack Lift-Off Bracket

Its great !!! Already made it. Thank you.

What are the dimensions for the plexi/acrylic for each window to fit? Maybe I'm just not seeing it in the readme or here in the comments.

Thank you muchly!

For those not wanting to do the conversions
44.5 x 50cm turns into
17.51 x 19.6 inch

Hello Latzenpratz.

This is a great design thanks.

I just have one request...can you make this compatible with 3mm acrylic? 5mm is kinda an overkill.

Looking forward to hear back from you.

It fits 3mm acryl, for the 5mm you have to file down the pin...

Great stuff, thanks for coming back to me.

ok what am i doing wrong my slicr prog not putting in the big holes making it all solid

Hi! I love this design! Would it be possible to make it also for2.5mm acrylic ?

Hallo, könntest du bitte die gespiegelten vorderen Teile noch hochladen. Ich hab so ein doofes abgespecktes 3D-Druckprogramm das
nur ein verschieben und drehen aber kein spiegeln ermöglicht. Das wäre echt super wenn du das machen könntest.

Comments deleted.

Könntest du mir verraten wie ich die Teile so bearbeiten kann dass dünnere Scheiben reinpassen? Ich hab keinen blassen Schimmer von 3D-Design, hab mir zwar in Tinkercad 2, 3 Sachen entworfen, aber alles nur ganz einfache Teile :-/

Hi! Ich berabeite einfache files mit 123Design (jetzt TinkerCAD). da kannst du einfach die Aufnahmein einer Dimension nach innen erweitern und so schmaler machen.

lol.. Thanks

Took the easiest to assemble piece of IKEA furniture and made it just as complex as everything else they sell. Kudos. That's an accomplishment

ist es möglich den mittleren Teil (~65mm) in der Höhe zu strecken/erweitern auf sagen wir mal auf 115mm?
Eine zusätzliche Variante mit einem Innenteil von 165mm wäre auch super. Für alle anderen Dimensionen wäre es dann vermutlich einfacher zwei LACK direkt mit den Beinen zu verbinden.

Bei mir liegt unter dem Anet A8 eine Fallschutzmatte (~25mm) und zusätzlich steht das Gerät auf Vibrationsdämpfern (~25mm).
Die einzige Möglichkeit die ich mit meinem (noch) nicht vorhandenen Wissen habe wäre in TinkerCAD das gesamte Objekt zu strecken, aber das möchte ich eigentlich nicht, weil sich dann der Fußteil und der obere Teil zur Befestigung proportional mit ändert.

PS: Hat sich (hoffe ich) erledigt. Noch nicht gedruckt, aber ich denke es sollte so klappen.


IKEA LACK raiser with window holder (remix)

Hello, anyone mounted these and then placed the electronics outside of the box? If so, could you share the way you did it so I can get some ideas?

Would love to have a bracket to go into that hole from the bottom.
That way you would be able to lift the table of the printer if needed to access the sides :)

when you say mirror the pieces, mirror them on the X or Y axis?

X & Y axis mirror work, don't mirror the z-axis :-)

Hi Latzenpratz,

Erstmal danke für das Design. Ich habe mir die Teile auch gedruckt. In den lack_oben Dateien sind die nach oben gerichteten Löcher leicht unterschiedlich. Könntest du das bei Gelegenheit noch anpassen?

First I want to thank you for the design. I printed those parts for me. The top directed holes in the lack_oben files are slightly different from each other. Could you edit this sometime?


Hallo, ich würde dieses Projekt auch gerne angehen. Bin nur noch etwas neu im Business.
Könntest du bitte noch ein paar mehr Druckeinstellungen bereitstellen?
z.B. Wanddicke, Füllmuster, hast du verschiedene Druckgeschwindigkeiten für Füllungen, Wänden, Bewegungsgeschwindigkeit


Wanddicke hatte ich glaub 1.2mm, Cura standard Füllmuster, 60mm Geschwindigkeit, 0,3mm Schichtdicke

Can you please tell me the dimensions of the sheet that fits with these raisers? Waiting for filament to print these with and want to get my panels ordered. Love this design.

Thanks ! Could you put that piece of information in the description ? Thanks in advance ! =)

Ich habe noch 3mm Scheiben, wäre es möglich die Dateien anzupassen oder mir die rohdateien zukommen zu lassen?

Danke, mfg

Du kannst die STL problemlos in jedem Editor öffnen und bearbeiten.

mit freecad funktioniert es nicht oder ich bin zu doof? Welchen editor benutzt du?

Comments deleted.

Ich habe 4 Acrylglasscheiben mit den angegeben Maßen anfertigen lassen (kosten ein Vermögen). Leider passen sie nicht in die Halterungen, da der kleine Block stört. Kannst du evtl. eine Version ohne die Blöcke zur Verfügung stelle?. Oder die Quelldateien. Ich würde es dann selber anpassen.
Ansonsten gute Arbeit! :-)


Ich habe bei mir 4mm Plexi verbaut, die kleinen Nasenwerden einfach mit einer Feile soweit runtergefeilt
dass die Scheiben reinpassen aber trotzdem "fest" halten und durch die Schwingungen des Druckers
nicht klappern.

Wie sind die Abmaße der Plexiglasscheiben?

Ich habe 5mm dicke Scheiben verwendet (es gehen auch dünnere in den Aufnahmen ist ein kleiner Block der angepasst werden kann), die restlichen Maße ergeben sich aus den Lack Abmessungen bzw. der Höhe der Erhöhungen.
Wenn du die files unveränderst druckst sinds 44,5 x 50cm

Hast du Plexiglas genommen oder eine Alternative? Das Zeug ist ja im 4-5mm Bereich ziemlich teuer.
Hast du da eventuell eine "günstige" Lösung?

Ich habe für 4 Scheiben 500 x 500 x 4 mm bei ebay 28,48€ + 6€ Versand bezahlt.
Verkäufer war "alt-intech"

Kannst du villeicht einen Link posten ? Ich komme mit Versand nicht unter 40€

Nimmst du die Scheiben nur zur Geräusch Dämmung oder auch um Wärme drinnen zu halten?

Wie beheizt du denn deine Kabine und was für Temperaturen kannst du innen erreichen?

beheizen gar nicht, aber wenn alle Seiten zu ist gibts keine Probleme durch Zugluft (nur bei ABS relevant)...

What thickness of glass/plastic were the brackets designed to use? Excellent design, will be printing sson.

Could you provide the both "oben" parts with additional holes? I would like to use them on a third table above the one where the printer stands.
They would be used at the top as well as on the bottom (instead of the the raiser parts) and should take a screw to fix the third table.

___ oben
___ Lack raiser

I just added a second version with additional holes

Thank you.
Ich danke dir.

Any hints on door attachments?

I'm interested too.
Tested those (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1227270) without luck...

Lack Table Enclosure Parts

I'm still on the search for the perfect hinges for my front door. I guess i'll have to design them myself...
But right now i don't have the time... maybe after x-mas

I'm a bit on hurry because I can't stand anymore the noise of the printer when I'm working at home, and I want to move it into the garage ;-)

I tried to design quickly a hinge, but there is some room for improvements, any input is welcome:

Door / Window Hinge

Nice design, it would be even nicer if it were incorporated into the riser and the top bracket so no holes were needed on the enclosure. I am still printing the pieces, but I like the removable option.

Thanks rcabor,

Thats a great idea, I will think about it for the next revision.

Comments deleted.

Hallo, ich hab zwei Fragen: 1. Was für Schaniere hast du benutzt und sind sie 3D gedruckt? 2. Wie hast du die 3D gedruckten Teile am Tisch befestigt, einfach mit Schrauben?

Die Frontscheibe (und damit die Scharniere) fehlt bei mir noch...
Die Scheiben werden nur in die Halterung gesteckt. Die Halterungen habe ich mit Spax in den Tisch geschraubt.

Kannst du mir vielleicht die genauen Schrauben maße sagen wenn da snicht zuviel arbeit ist? Und danke für die schnelle Antwort!

Ich habe 4x25 Edelstahl Spax genommen.

Comments deleted.

welche Maße müssen die Plexiglasscheiben dann haben ?

Ich habe 5mm dicke Scheiben verwendet (es gehen auch dünnere in den Aufnahmen ist ein kleiner Block der angepasst werden kann), die restlichen Maße ergeben sich aus den Lack Abmessungen bzw. der Höhe der Erhöhungen.
Wenn du die files unveränderst druckst sinds 44,5 x 50cm

This uses 0.5kg of filament... Holy shit...

Noooooooooo, i just used 20% infill, thats enough (or 15% don't remeber...)


Which settings did You use? Cura says a leg costs 118g of filament with shell/top/bottom thickness of 1.6mm and fill density of 15%, so 4 leg with upper parts would be more than 0.5kg of filament :(

And what kind of filament did You use, PLA or ABS?

Best regards,


I used PLA, 1.2mm bottom and shell, 0.3mm layer, 20% fill, 60mm/s speed.
CURA says 37.87m, 94g, 6'37h
I used a cheep PLA (15€/kg)

6 hours for all 4?

I want to print these legs but cant get my prints to take a shorter amount of time.

it takes me 16hours for 1 leg using these parameters in CURA :
layer_height = 0.15
wall_thickness = 1.2
fill_density = 25
print_speed = 40

7hours using 0.3mm layer, 20% fill, and 60mm/s speed

Why using 0.15mm layer height?
This doesn't contain any detail so 0.3mm (with 0.4mm nozzle) works just fine.
In theory this should cut print time in half.
And 20% infill is plenty much, I use 10% and still think its too much. If you use thick walls, the perimeters of the big hole in the middle should be able to support more weight than needed.

7 hours are ok but by me it shows 20 hours. i cant find the wall thikness layer hight and print speed in Simlify3D

help please

I don't use Simplify3D.
Just google it. I heard there is a "Beginners Mode" in Simplify3D that hides many "advanced" options.
I wouldnt recommend tweaking print speeds if you're beginner (which I assume, given that you are not that familiar with your slicer).

hm ok but can it possible that are the 4 lack raisers only need 181645,7 mm ?

how many filament rolls are that ? 3 ? 4 ? xD