Print-In-Place Iris Box (remix)

by LoboCNC Oct 10, 2016
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

A plastic collar stay can be helpful for running between layers and finding where a problem is.

Printed on Anet A6, all goes perfect, just a little push after removing bottom locks and it works great! Awesome model!

OK working fine ! printed it on my DIY machine at 0.2.

thank you !

Excellent print!! Printed 100% @ .2 layer height and 20% infill on my Tevo Tornado and it works perfectly on my first one!

For those having problems with the print not rotating, make sure as you delicately work it, you inspect the tabs at the bottom.

I initially thought my first attempt was a bust. I cut the tabs, worked a flat head around the perimeter and it just wouldn't budge. I delicately squeezed around the top and saw that the outer perimeter was free, but it just wouldn't rotate. I started trying to work an x-acto blade around the top between the inner rings, thinking it had fused, but iI was making no progress. That's when I flipped it over and watched each of the tabs at the bottom carefully. I noticed that 3 of the 4 were moving slightly, but the 4th wasn't, I carefully slid the blade in, heard a slight pop and it immediately started working perfectly!!!

Finally managed to print a successful one. I'm using Prusa i3 MK3S, and slicing with PrusaSlicer. I could print a working one at 120% scale, but I still wanted to get one at 100% scale, but it kept fusing together and what finally worked for me was enabling Detect thin walls under print settings/layers and perimeters/quality (slower slicing), but make sure you have Advanced (yellow mode enabled).

Worked great on my Anycubic Mega-S at 100% scale and 0.2 layer height.

This is great! I printed two at 100% scale and one at 150% scale. The 100% scales were perfect, but the scaled up one seems to have too much space and the leaves have a tendency to open once you close them when it's put down. Anyone have any ideas to fix this?

Printed off a load of these because they're so cool. It appeared to scale up (100% in on the right, I did 150% and 200% also) plus using Microsoft 3D builder I could take the design and emboss my name on it also. ( I did one for my son called "Rhys' pieces" - he didn't get the joke... kids eh?)

Also getting better at freeing up the leaf's - it's an art form, but you need to cut the leaf's free from underneath and then put a screwdriver in between the base and body very carefully to get it going.

I made this on my Monoprice Select Mini pro and I am excited. Not only did it fit on the build plate and work really well, the finished build is the perfect size for a set of dice!

Printed on the first try on Ender2. 0.24mm layer height. Separating the parts was more or less as usual with print in place things. I may be in the minority asking for smaller clearances? The bosses/pivots on the inner ball are too short and the leaves are prone to slip off, resilting in hard to fix jamming. So once the thing is broken in, it's too losey-goosey.

Otherwise a fantastic design, thanks for sharing!

You might try printing with a 0.20mm layer height (exactly) as the internal gaps around all the moving parts are designed for this specific layer height.

Thanks! I tried, but alas, same result. Probably a bit worse, because this time it was more difficult to break in ~ which is probably just luck. The gaps that I think are problematic are not vertical, where the layers would make the difference, they are between the walls that are almost vertical. The leaves are too thin, they are literally falling out out of their sockets. Maybe it has to do with properties of my specific PLA. If I could, I'd enthicken the leaves and walls.

You may be under extruding. In most peoples prints, the leafs stay in place pretty well.

Ummmm... I posted a comment on my print but now it’s flagged? Okay, anyway, the meat of my post was that I, 1. Love this design, 2. Printed with no visible flaws and 3. Had a problem with separating the top and bottom as the bottom completely broke, ish, but if you could give me tips I would greatly appreciate it and I love your work!
Okay, so I found one other person you talked with about “beefing up” the bottom, It was one of the first comments, I will also try to superglue it, but thank you for the amazing design!

It does take a little bit of prying to get the outer ring broken free. (Although first preview your g-code to make sure there is one blank layer between the outer ring and the base - otherwise it'll be hopelessly fused together.) See the video link in kaliz's comment below for how to break the ring free. If your print is breaking, you may not have sufficiently fused layers and may need to print a little hotter or a little slower.

I just took the 130% off the printer and it came apart flawlessly! I recommend to anyone with a lower quality printer to scale this up just a little bit! Even some of the higher end ones might benefit from this! I stuck a flat-head screwdriver into the cracks about 6 times all the way around, cut the tabs, and voila! IT WORKS! I suspect that my first one did not have an empty layer. THANK YOU FOR THIS AMAZING DESIGN!!!

Hmm, I’ll have to look at my slicer. I printed another one at 130% overnight, I will go check that one now and see if it has fused together also. I just looked at my slicer and the 130% has a layer but I cannot be sure of the 100% one. Thank you for your help I will go watch that video and hope it works!

Hello LoboCNC!
I love this as I was weary of printing emmet’s. I know he is a wonderful designer but sometimes his prints are big and bad, meaning that they take a long time to print and typically have a lower success rate. I printed this design with Cura 4.0.0 at 45mm/s and .2 mm layer height. I printed Inland PLA (because it’s pretty cheap) at 200c for the nozzle and 60 for the bed. The print itself came out beautiful and had no stringing or defects, I had a small bump on the bottom due to a gash in my print bed, but other than that it was good. I used a Creality Ender 3 Pro and have had 4 months to play with it, so while I am not the most versed in 3D Printing I have some tricks. Anyway, I cut the tabs on the bottom and followed the instructions thoroughly and read about 1/3 of the comments for help, but no one seemed to have my problem. My problem was with releasing the bottom from the top joint. I pried with a small screwdriver (bigger than the one that comes with the ender 3 pro) and it didn’t come loose until I broke the bottom. I have a video that shows this. Could you tell me why this happened? I thank you for your time in advance and if you don’t get to this I understand that you have thousands of other things to attend to. Anyway, thank you and I love this print! *Other than the broken base :P

i dont know why but ive printed this model 5 times at different sizes and every time it layer shifts on me, ive never had a model layer shift on me ever but i cant get it to print without layer shifting.

The layers shift when one of your stepper motors loses steps. It's actually pretty easy to create a pathologically jerky path that will cause this to happen in printers that otherwise seem properly tuned, so it is not too surprising that you'll occasionally run across a model that fails this way. Try lowering your printer's X and Y "jerk" values.

Thanks for the info. i have lowered my jerk settings to 10 with initial layer travel at 20 and default x y jerk at also 10 . Ill give it a try, I though this print was cursed as so many things were going wrong when I tried to print it. Printing at 250% size, the first the print would not stick to the bed, then when it did stick it came off 4 hours later and when I woke up I had spaghetti all over the table and the 4 hour print was being dragged around, then i attempted to print it super slow at 30mms and for some reason the the outer shell was printing in mid air 6 hours in, then after 6 hours off the next print it got caught on my petsfang cooling fan and dragged the print around the bed, the next one was almost perfect except for the layer shifting , then then next one layer shifted just a bit but 22 hours in the power went out and i was printing from octoprint so no resume. after that the other prints just kept shifting. Hopefully its not cursed as ill try and print it again after this one is done. I printed it at 70mms feed rate at .2 layer height with .3 height initial layer at 230C first layer and 210C for the rest. 120% line width and 140 flow for the initial height and 110 for the rest. no issues with it sticking together but i have a custom parts cooler fan with 2 huge fans on top of each other (from a server rack) running 12v in series on a 24v line. works great running at 80%. i hope this works , 6 hours left on this print then I try again in a new color with less jerk.

I was having the same issues as everyone else until I had seen the suggestion to scale the model. I printed it at 115%, 20% infill, and 0.2 layer height. I freed all the tabs on the bottom, worked the top free from the base, and also found that the leaf joints were stuck a bit and popped them as well from the top. Then it worked really well. It is so smooth that it will actually open up on its own if you set it on the table abruptly.

Nope I can't get it to work either; Sliced and checked it in Sli3erPE 1.41.3 printed on Prusa Mk3 in PLA and after cutting the parts free as per instructions all the moving parts are fused to the bottom of the inner cup, had to cut it apart to find the issue, two of the leaf's are completely fused at bottom for about 20mm so no chance of moving at all.

The bottoms of the leafs actually rest on the build table, so I'm not sure what you mean when you say they are fused at the bottom. Are the leafs fused laterally to the inner shell or to the outer ring?

Yes the inner faces of the leafs are fused to the inner dome for the first 30% of the build, I tried to build it again slowing the first layer to 50% then the remainder for 75% and pausing the print every 5% and freeing the leafs with a scalpel and and it still failed.

I had the same problem when I tried to print the adjustable wrench so I'll just have to put it down to cheap filament.

Update: after posting on Facebook I scaled up to 110% and tried a different filament and finally got it to work, there were still some issues and it took some time to getting it to work freely

For all of those having problems to get the mechanism to work, I made a short video explaining how to do it: https://youtu.be/oLlPiXsoVfY
The important part starts at 2:26.

Perfect, Thats exactly what I needed, Thank you!

Thank you for sharing! I wasn't sure where it was getting held up. Works great now.

Thanks for the great video! This should help people out a lot.

Took a little bit to get it to work, but it turned out pretty nice.

Printed on Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mk2 with Chad Hurd's Advi3++ firmware in PLA - carefully cut the gaps as instructed - Bit sticky so used graphite powder to lubricate - worked a little too well - the iris needs a little bit of friction to stay shut - used a bit of the wife's wool in the base gap to hold it closed - Nice Print Thank you

I'm determined this thing doesn't actually work. I've printed it twice now, I have great tolerances. I got everything los the second time after adjust settings, it still will not work.

Are you previewing the g-code to verify that your slicer is producing a 1 layer gap between the rotating outer ring and the base?

I will double check this, where is this layer gap supposed to be at (first layer etc?)? I will check and try again one last time...

Yes, if you start looking at layers about 2 or 3mm up from the bottom, you should be able to identify the outer ring in the cross section. As you then move down layer by layer, at some point, the outer ring will disappear, and then in the next layer, you'll start seeing the cross section of the base beneath the ring. If the gap is there, you may be printing a little too hot or too slowly such that the outer ring still completely fuses to the base, even with the gap.

I know you don't have to help me, but I don't see the gap that you are referring to. I took a screen video of my slicer going layer by layer up and down, would you take a look?


screencast.com seems to need adobe flash installed, which I don't have. But if you don't see a gap, it could be that your layer height is too thick. What layer resolution are you using? I recommend using 0.2mm as that should guarantee that your slicer produces a gap.

About how long of a print has this taken most people?

I've been printing this twice, working on that for more than an hour and it still stuck and wont turn.
Tried to push stuff into the leaves and it all goes in smoothly, tried to separate the outer ting from the base ring but it looks like it is already separated, nothing seems to help... :\
Why not make a print of this in parts? this is a horrible print...

Original prusa mk3s, 0.2mm PLA.

Thank you for this very nice model.
I'm completely new to 3D printing and this was actually the first model I slized myself. The first print wasn't ideal as it had a lot of stringing inside the box, but the mechanism was working just fine. I did some research and tweaked the settings a bit. The second print came out near perfect. So I wanted to share my settings for everyone:
Slizer: Cura 3.6.0
Printer: Creality CR-10S
Material: PLA
Layer Hight: 0.2 mm
Top/Bottom Pattern: Concentric
Bottom Pattern Initial Layer: Concentric
Optimize Wall Printing Order: On
Infill Density 20 %
Infill Pattern: Triangle
Printing Temp: 210°C
Build Plate Temp: 50°C
Enable Retraction: On
Retraction Distance: 6 mm
Retraction Speed: 60 mm/s
Print Speed: 50 mm/s
Travel Speed: 60 mm/s
Combing Mode: Not in Skin
Avoid Printed Parts When Traveling: Off
Z Hop When Retracted: Off
Build Plate Adhesion Type: Skirt
Skirt Line Count: 4
Actual Print Time: 4 hours

Video how to unlock the mechanism: https://youtu.be/oLlPiXsoVfY

Thank you SO much for posting this settings, I just got a printer too, and really want to have this box. Still calibrating my Ender 3 and stuff, Cheers!

You're welcome. I think the setting that had the most influence on the good print was the "Optimize Wall Printing Order".

I've tried printing this three times, I'm very new to 3d printing though. Each time, I used my Monoprice Voxel (which i believe is a FF Adventurer) using Polar3D cloud to print.

The first time i printed at 100%, using the default settings -- which had a slicing of .3mm layers I believe (DRAFT setting). The print turned out okay, but I believe bc of the speed it printed at (total time of 3 hours), the leaves were fused to the layers where the filament blobbed. Also I shoved a business card in between the leaves and the spheres to make sure it was separated and it eventually got stuck in there, and ripped clean when i tried to remove it.

The second time i printed at 100%, using med settings -- which had a slicing of .2mm layers, leaving everything default (first layer .23mm) - this one printed out great, but i was unable to free the outer sphere to rotate it. I was able to separate the leaves. I tried jamming a screw driver in as suggested, and noted that the entire gap between the outer sphere and the base ring is clean. I applied pressure everywhere, eventually so much that it snapped off a small piece of the side of the base. It seems like it fused from below. The total print time was around 5 hours.

The third time i printed at 122%, using custom med settings - i changed everything to .2mm, including first layer. This one printed out great as well, but again I am unable to free the outer sphere to rotate it. Every fin is separate and I can hear them rattling around in there. I just cannot get the outer sphere to rotate. The entire rim is clear, i shoved a screw driver in there. Can anyone help?

printed at 200% on my heavily modded CR-10 with a .8mm nozzle at .44mm layers. Although everything separated, it absolutely would not start moving. I printed it a little too fast, and I forgot to correct my retraction and coast settings from a previous print, resulting in a lot of blobbing and a tiny bit of stringing. (not bad for petg though)

So keep in mind if you have serious blobbing, or you aren't printing with really good quality you may struggle to free this print.

Printed totally fine by fixing just that one setting! Super neat little thing. I'm going to print a 450% one now :)

if i use a raft will it not work i find that when i take it off the bed the bottom is slightly damaged so i just wanted to use a raft

Hello. I printed this on my Ender 3 using PLA and sliced with Cura. It printed great and i had no problem freeing up the parts to get it to work. However, for some reason, the leaves printed brittle and after a few times opening and closing they began to spilt and break. Any advice on what the problem could be? What am i doing wrong or not doing? Any help would be much appreciated.

Hello im new to 3d printing and have the same printer what settings and pla did you use?

Try printing at a hotter temperature or printing more slowly to improve the layer adhesion.

I think it is important to mention that the outer wall/ring , when printed, is attached to the bottom and you have to literally break ,what was intentionally printed together, apart. I had printed this twice and followed the directions but I didn't use enough force with the screw driver because I didn't want to break anything. Maybe if the hole where the bottom of the petals show was wide enough to go under the outer wall/ring this would make it less connected to the bottom and give another pry point for a screw driver

There is actually a 0.2mm gap between the outer ring and the base, which is similar to the gap used when printing supports. The two parts do fuse together, but only weakly. However, if you print at other than the recommended 0.2mm layer height, your slicer might not recognize this gap properly, and it can be very difficult to break free.

Newb here. what wall thickness and top/bottom thickness should I use? Using cura to slice.

I usually use 3 solid bottom layers and 4 solid top layers, but given how everything is pretty much a thin wall, it is almost completely printed as perimeter lines.

Got it out nicely on an Ender 3 using Simplify 3D slicer. Had to massage the bottom a bit by pressing on the base to free the rotation. After that worked nicely.

Awesome print! I managed to get mine working first try, but it took a bit of work to free it up.

Definitely works! Although takes some effort to get it working first time.


It works nicely, 100% on my Ender 3. Took me some times (and reading) on how to free it, but it's done, and it's so beautiful.

Thanks a lot for sharing.

totalement nul, impossible de faire tourner quoi que ce soit,grosse perte de temps pour rien, c'est zéro

You do need a well calibrated printer to print this successfully. Also, if you read through the other comments, you will find tips in breaking everything free.

Printed fine.
Wouldn’t turn. Very hard job trying to cut off tthise bits of plastic as advise. Will try another.

Been checking out things here for a while but finally joined up to say thanks for adding this one, totally blown away by it! Worked out first time at 66% on a bog-stock $100 A8 at 40m/s. Really wasn't expecting it to work out at the smaller size, it was intended as a quick test run but 10 minutes careful prodding with a feeler gauge and it was free! Printing again at 100% later, thanks again.

printed nicely on my tarantula, tabs were a pain, but only because I didnt read the instructions properly, so i ground away the entire bottom section ;) RTFM.. works very well, unsure if that bottom bit was meant to be a snap lock or something, may reprint on the cr10s pro tomorrow and do it right.

Printed perfectly on MakerGear M3-ID. After printing, it was difficult to separate the turning ring. Instructions show using a small screwdriver to pry parts apart. I tried that and it didn't work. However what did work was using a flexible guitar pick. Within seconds that parts separated. Very cool design. Thank you!!

If you read the instructions, you will see the leaf was only added after for someone who broke one.

for this box do you print everything or just the eyeball stl, beacause i see the leaf stl

Mine printed without the things the arrows are pointing at in the image to cut, and it does not work. What now?

Sounds like you've set your first layer height too thick and your slicer isn't recognizing the tabs on the first layer. Try making sure your first layer height is exactly 0.2mm.

Just finished printing one at 200%, 21 hours! Works like a charm, but it's actually made more difficult to open/close due to it's large size, as it's difficult to hold.

Printed in 100% but totally unable to break things apart.
Nothing moves and after trying it with a screwdriver it completely broke.
Pretty bad print, wouldn't recommend.

Yes, this model can be kind of challenging to print. If you read through the comments on some of the other makes, you can get some tips on printing and on how best to break it free. Good luck!

This is actually the 3rd try I've done. Even with my E3Dv6 and almost perfect settings I can't get this thing to properly print.
Gotta be the hardest to print model lol

I had to do a fair amount of work to dial in my printer when I first designed this. I dissected each failed print very carefully to figure out where I was having problems, whether it was the rotating ring fusing too solidly to the fixed base or blobs at the end of the outer perimeter lines. Once, I got it dialed in, though, my other prints improved as well.

I've broken apart the latest model and saw that my walls had thicker layers randomly all over them. Any idea what could cause that?

Hmm, maybe something isn't quite working right in your Z axis and you are getting uneven layer height. This can happen if there is a lot of friction in the Z axis and you are getting some stick-slip action as you move up. If it is just noticeable on the inside leafs, htough, they may be moving around as you print. Maybe your acceleration or "jerk" setting are too high?

Thanks for your answer, after further inspection I've found out that these lines are everywhere on the print. I've made a quick photo: https://i.imgur.com/xALe3WD.jpg
So you think that's because Z axis obstruction? Interesting because the Z-Axis-Rods are the first thing I've switched out for high quality ones... I also have 2 Z-Motors so I can't think of anything that would cause this honestly.

Even with high quality smooth rods, misalignment can require some force to lift the carriage. Also, does your printer have the threaded rods supported by the motor bearings through helical couplings? This is a very common but horrible design because the flexible couplings act like springs in the Z direction. Any binding in the Z axis will cause the couplers to compress (or stretch) giving you an uneven Z height.

printed it out and worked great! thank you!

printed it out and worked great! Thank you!

Just got it printed great print

I am trying to make one slightly different myself for a project. can you tell me how you calculated the radius to cut off for the leaves?

Once you know where your pivot points are, you can use the fact that all the leafs meet in the center at the top. Therefore, the radius will be the distance from your pivot point to the point at the center of the top. Make sense?

Hi! Is there any chance to upload a file of a single leaf? Mine broke off I would like to try printing just one to fix it :D

I added an STL of just the leaf (leaf4.stl). You'll need to print it with a brim to keep it standing up. Also, I'm not sure how easy it'll be to get it assembled into place if printed separately.

Might be easier and faster to print another box - then you would have spares.


Thanks again LoboCnc for this great file, and especially for generous tolerances to allow for scaling. Here is a short video of my recent print that I was finally able to get right.

Thanks @LoboCNC! Super design! This printed fine on my Creality 10S at 100% size, all default settings in Cura, printed with a brim (which saved the print, it had some startup non-stick issues). Iris works great. Inside was a bit stringy, but might be due to a loose bowden tube, giving it not enough retraction. But hey, this was just my 6th print. I'm a new starter. Will fix the tube.

I'm not that strong, so I can't break the seal(s).

Dude! This was perfect! I printed it at 175% on my CR-10 with and it turned out more than perfect! after cutting the 16 tabs I didn't even have to un-snap it as you were saying in your instructions it was working right off the build plate! FANTASTIC!!! I am going to print a tun of these to put gift certificates, cash and cards for Christmas gifts! Ill get pics up later today.

Is it possible to add a cryptex or some other snazzy thing to act as a lock so it doesn't open by accident?

Very nice, printed it for the misses and now she wants a 200mm version,.. I doubt scaling up will be enough for success.

I got my 1st 3D printer (Ender 3) about 4 days ago, and this was the first "long" print I attempted. I used red RepRapper PLA and printed at 100%. Other than a lot of stringing on the inside it printed great, and after cutting the bottom tabs and wiggling the base around a little it broke free on it's own. I didn't need to prod around the base or anything, so I'm assuming I finally have the Ender 3 dialed in to try more intricate prints. Thanks for making this, it is a fun print at just around 3 1/2 hours.

Comments deleted.

First try. Cut all i have to cut. But i can not turn it.

I print it bigger right now. it look cleaner. I think the problem is the nozzle. Post some pictures later

Comments deleted.

would of worked great if the 3d printer/slicer didn't repair the model

which printer / slicer?

Incredible design, blown away that this works so well! A+

Very nice design. Printed the first one at 100% on Genuine Prusa MK3. After cutting the bottom tabs and using a small screwdriver to break the rim free it still wouldn't turn. Finally read a lot of these comments and found that I needed to free up the two "bumps" on each leaf - that wasn't as easy as it sounds even with automotive feeler gauges - lots of time and flddleing. But it did work.

Then I printed a second one at 125%. Perfect. Cut the tabs, A few seconds with a screwdriver around the rim and it works.

Hello, I'm a beginner, but I have had some success. Using an MK3 running Slic3rPE. I found a cheap set of feeler gauges work well to free up the leaves by sliding the gauge between the leaves and the inner and outer shells.

These may help:



So there is one upper pin on the inner shell that seats in a hole in the upper right corner of each leaf, about which the leaves rotate; and the other pin for each leaf is located on the outer shell about half way down and sits in a groove in the leaf, and it controls the leaf's travel. See the upper pin and hole, and the groove for the outer pin in the pic above.

Here is recent video showing my progress .https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5LfGx223YGU&t=21s

I hope this helps, and I would be happy to help if anyone has any questions - EASY ones because a real NEWB here.

Lastly, to anyone who hasn't yet had the experience, just keep at it - the joy one feels at the moment the leaves break free for the first time makes it worth the effort.

Luck to all.


Hi again! First I must apologize to Lobo for not immediately recognizing the amazing work he did so this print could be shared with and enjoyed by so many of us. I was remiss in not doing so.

Also, I wanted to share a few pics of this file print next to a remix of a larger 5 leaf version of a file created by Emmett here on thingiverse. I printed the blue 5 leaf scaled to 50% of the same file that I printed in the above video scaled to 150%. These pics REALLY show how tight the tolerances become when scaling down. Although, I must confess that while the blue print functions very smoothly, I cheated to make it so. The print completed, and everything looked great right off the bed, but one of the leaves fused, irretrievably, to the inner shell; so, after cleaning up remnants, I was able to borrow a good leaf from another earlier failure, and carefully insert it into the final product.




I just can't get enough of these little creations - sometimes I finds myself in the house fidgeting with one in my hands, open/close/open/close, with no idea how it got there.

Anyway, I'm glad there are others who also find them interesting and challenging.


Printed at 150% , much easier to break free. 11 1\2hr print time @ 60mm\sec. A bit of stringing in between leaves so opening isn't totally smooth.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Tried to make two more with a different filament (all were with PLA) but had the same problem on both of the new ones: one of the four leaves broke inside. Any ideas why?

OK, made it and made the bottom cuts. Inserted a thin blade between the bottom ring and around the outer shell, but not able to get things moving. The leaves seem to be loosely wiggling around. Not sure if I should be more aggressive around the lower ring, or where inside the ring to attempt breaking something loose. Anyone have successful approaches? Thanks.


Works also on 0.25 CR10 PLA!

Comments deleted.

When I try to print this it seems to "shift" about a mm or 2 just above the upper ring.I am using Cura 3.4.1. I enlarged it to 130%. Any ideas? It happened 2 times and I can't see anything wrong with the file.

Printed at 100% on cr-10s with ABS, Works well.

Printed at 100% on CR-10. Hard to break free but got it loose. Then hit it with a bunch of Teflon lube. Smooth now.

I think i'm dumb...i did the cuts but it cant turn...
Nobody did a vid of the start up ?

Finally it's ok, two sides was stuck at the bottom, it needed some help.

prints great at 100% (3 hrs) and at 160% (almost 9 hrs) on a kossel delta, bigger version is much easier to remove tabs and release outer ring. TFTB

I printed this at 100% on my cr-10 and the bottom of it is too smooth so I can't get the tabs off. What should I do??

That sounds like your nozzle is too close to the bed then, and the filament is getting squished too much. I would raise your nozzle a little bit and then reprint the first couple of mm of this print to compare the differences.

I just got done printing this at 100% on a kossel delta printer. My 2nd ever attempt at a print other than my benchy as my first. Took some turning but it works.

Printed successfully at 100% on JG Aurora A3. Nice design! A bit of stringing inside but nothing I can't clean up easily. What is the largest anyone has printed this? I feel compelled to fill the bed w/ this.

Printed successfully at 150% on a CR10 (didn't try smaller, following the comments here). Took a bit of effort to get the leaves to move - it's worth trimming as much as you can from the tabs, but now it opens and closes reliably. Not exactly smooth, but still damn impressive for a one-piece print. Thanks!

I had a lot of trouble getting all of the leaves free (printed at 100% size), but I found that probing the inside with a stiff zip tie helped me find where they were stuck, then I was able to specifically attack those areas with a narrow bladed knife to break the adhesion.

I really liked this and I made a video about it, check it out :D

Printed at 100% but couldn't get the parts separated. Bumped it up to 122% and had no problems.

It is really cool xD

Great model! Printed perfectly on my Tevo Tornado. Thanks for the great toy!

This is neat. It took a bit more prying then I thought to get things loose. Overall it is very cool.

This blew my mind! Thanks for the design, it's so awesome to be able to print a mechanically moving part straight up without assembly.

The print succeeded and it worked pretty well just if I held it in a certain spot it would jam up so I tried to fix it and I ended up breaking it. I will be printing it again tomorrow. But this time I will break it free and leave it at that

I’m about to print this on a monoprice select mini v2. Scaled to 155%. Cura says it should take 11 hours. Wish me luck

How did it turn out? I'm thinking of printing a scaled-up version too.

It printed just fine. it did take a little while to free up but now it works great

It is taking longer than expected I could stop it now but I want it to look complete

And I’m going to be checking on it halfway through.

Or maybe not I’ll probably be asleep

It's about 60mm in diameter and about 40mm tall.

I printed this on Original Prusa i3 MK3 with default Slic3r PE 0.2mm profile on Prusa silver PLA at 100% scale. It took about 3h 20min to print. I was able to crack it and it works, but it took me about 20-30min to crack with a small screwdriver and small knife etc. It works pretty good but not perfect. The leaves aren't very smooth (I think I have a little bit too much vibration on the printer).

I will probably try printing this again (later) scaled up a little bit (maybe something like 120%) and/or printing it a bit slower and with 0.15 or 0.1 mm layer height to try and make it smoother/prettier and a bit better functioning.

Really nice model otherwise!

4 failed prints but I will not give up! GOTTA KEEP TRYING

Edit: Done, I gave up. Good luck brothers on getting this to work.

UPDATE: IT FINALLY WORKED!!! Scale up to 150% and try printing it. I used FlashForge Finder. Another thing I did was pause halfway and made sure the leaves aren't fused with the wall or anything.

Excellent thing to print, thank you!!

After calibrating my new printer to within 0.1mm of calibration prints I figured it was time to try something harder. I always like Iris boxes so I figured I would give this a go. I was wrong. The inside fused together in several spots because of stringing. And, it magically printed with the pins on the wrong side internally some how. However, I will not be discouraged. I am calibrating for stringing and will give it another try. I will not surrender!

Very nice design, printed as a gift.
The 4 thin tabs attaching each leaf bottom to the outer ring, referenced in the instructions did not print on mine.
There was no need to separate the outer sphere from the base ring with a small screwdriver, there is plenty of room, in fact a little too much as one of the leafs keeps jamming and turing inside the sphere, I have to keep pressure on the sphere for it to work properly.
Print time was 13:17:22 at 150%.
Thank you

well, i've now joined the brotherhood of blood donors to this project.
However, I WILL NOT BE DEFEATED !!! Just started another print of this at 210 % on my printrbot simple metal.

Loved this box, printed like a champ. I used the FlashForge Finder. one suggestion, it would be nice if you could incorporate lugs at each end to make it stay open or shut. not critical, but it would be cool. Thanks for the build

That's a good idea. Emmett had designed in a feature in the leaf slots to hold the box closed, but it would have been difficult to print in my version. A little nub on the outer sphere with detents in the base ring would be fairly easy to implement, though.

This design has the inner and outer shells both fused to the base. You can see this in the preview of the sliced object. Your cross section image shows the outer shell magically floating above the base, but in reality it is fused. The screwdriver separation trick does not work for me without destroying the lower grip. If you instead modeled many tiny weak support struts for the outer shell it might break free by twisting. As it is, this design (and the one it's remixed from) do not work with by printer due to how firmly the outer shell is fused to the base.

Are you slicing with a layer thicness of exactly 0,2mm? If you use a thicker layers, the gap between the inner and outer spheres may disappear after slicing.

The gaps between the inner/outer shells and the leaves are ample. I can easily slide my thin spatula all the way in with no resistance. Changing the layer thickness (Z thickness) does not change the XY thickness and tolerances, so does not affect the gaps between the leaves in anyway as the slicing tool considers the nozzle thickness when deciding how close to the wall edge it should plot. My problem is how solid the outer shell is fused to the base. When looking at the slice output, the outer wall is attached to the base by a solid double extrusion. No wonder it wont budge. I suspect that if the outer wall was instead attached to the base by a number of tiny mounts, it would break free with a firm twist. I love this ingenious design by the way, except for this one issue.

If you look at the cross section of the model (7th image), you will see that there is a 0.2mm gap between the base and the outer sphere. If you slice with a 0.2mm layer thickness, you should find that in the preview of your sliced output, there will be exactly one layer where the outer sphere is not attached to the base ring. In reality, the outer sphere will end up weakly fusing to the base ring, but can easily be broken free by prying inward with a screwdriver. (Note that I am talking about the vertical gap between the outer sphere and the base ring, not the horizontal gaps.)

However, if you slice with,say, a 0.3mm layer thickness, the slicer may not detect the small gap and will fuse everything solid.

On closer inspection you are totally correct LoboCNC. Thank you!

How large are the tolereances, my printer tends to add 0.3mm along Y & Z axis, would it still be able to print this model?

The gaps are 0.6mm.

I’m impatient so made one scaled down to 60% in size, 0.15 layer height on my CR-10S and took little over an hour to print.

I used a Kodama Trinus printer:

My first one was a solid lump of plastic.

My second one was printed at 150%. It took about 30 minutes with a feeler gauge to break the pieces apart, but it WORKED!

I try to print it on flashforge printer and I dont can move it

im gonna print this at 145% scale on my renkforce rf100 with .2 layer height and 1.2 shell thickness, lets hope all goes well! itll take about 12 hours

I made one and it worked on the first try but took 11 hours. I printed on the CR-10 at 40mm/s .2 layer height and 125% Flo for top and bottom layers and 100% for the rest. Also scaled it up 150%

I'm attempting to print this on the Ultimaker 3 Extended with 20% infill and .2 layer height we will see what happens.

Print quality is good but everything fused together like a rock doubt I will have much luck getting it to move

I like it. i printed it in PLA on the Anycubic I3 Mega, it was EXTREMELEY HARD to seperate. it took me over 6HOURS just to seperate it. it works ok now.

yeah, i found that you have to break the little connector bits underneath it so the "petals" can move

I'm goingto try this on my CR10 at 150%. I'm using Simplify3D. What should I set for my perimeter, top & bottom layer settings?

Did the print work?

Yes, it worked fine at 100% using Tinymachines green and Tinymachines yellow. But it failed using Tinymachines turquoise.
Thank you so very much for this model! It's a great project.

Almost everything in this model is a thin wall, so if you specify 3 perimeters with a 0.4mm line width, 3 top & bottom layers, everything should print OK. You should look at the print preview and make sure all of the thin sections are filled in. If not, adjust the line width a little one way or the other. (The newest version of S3D will automatically adjust the line width to get full infill on thin walls.)

made it in bright green PETG original scale. thanks!!!

Fabulous. Tried the original iris box twice, with varying degrees of semi success including two hands cut to shreds and one feeler gauge ruined.

So, I tried this one twice. First at the original size, and as usual broke one of the internal guide rails so one segment doesn't open properly, but the second time, zoomed to 150%, worked first time, every time. And I'd learned some lessons on the other three, and avoided making the same mistakes. This fourth one didn't even require any feeler gauges. Just cut the tabs and freed the outer shell from the base, and it just worked.


It took a bit of work to get my PLA print working; adding a bit of silicone spray helped. Then I printed one at 150% and that started up like a charm.

Worked perfectly, do you think it will still work correctly if I scale it up to 80mm or 100mm

If you look at the makes, a number of people have successfully printed this scaled up pretty well.

Working blisters into my hands trying to get it to fully close, but I think I'll get there. This is awesome btw :-)

Ive printed this many times but it always is stuck together and it breaks when trying to separate. Using a cr-10 on Simlify3d. Can some one shed some light on my errors? Would love to make this and have it work

i did it! I got a set of feeler gauges from harbor freight and they were perfect for sliding between layers to free them. Whooohooooo!!

If you haven't watched this video (https://youtu.be/L5bD2DMX8BE) yet, it shows how to get the pieces freed up. However, if you end up with any blobs between the leafs and outer or inner shells, you'll still have lots of problems. In Simplify3D you may want to turn on the "coast" option as this tends to reduce stringing and blobbing. You may also need to increase your retraction. If you only have minor blobs or stringing inside, you can sometimes use a feeler gauge or thin shim to snake between the surfaces and free them up.

Ha! Wish I would have read this earlier. But somehow your genius energy lead me to the feeler gauges. Thank you for designing these things!!!

I've attempted this twice and it is 95% successful. I'm able to free up all the parts and everything just fine but for some reason I have 1 door that has multiple layers right in the middle that don't print correctly and the door comes apart in multiple pieces. Just one single door on both attempts - though I'm not sure if it's the same door but it's in exactly the same spot on the door. Any thoughts?

I'm having the identical issue.

Sounds like it could be a slicing issue or maybe an under extrusion issue that really only manifests in one place. Sometimes you can work around these problems by rotating the part on the build table by 45 deg. and then slice again.

I figured it could be a pathing issue somehow, but I was going to try rotating it to see what happens. Thanks for the input!

Is there a hole in the bottom?? The one I printed has no hole in the bottom. I got the leafs to break free easily but the bottom will not rotate

This version of the iris box does not have a hole in the bottom, although the version I did for my blinking goggles does have a hole. The best demonstration of how everything breaks free is this video by NetherBot: https://youtu.be/L5bD2DMX8BE

I tried it and it didn't work for me. It printed really nicely from the outside but all the internal parts were stuck together. I tried to separate them but it was impossible. I ended up breaking it to find out what's going on and the inner leafs were attached to the base so strongly that it was clear that I had no chance to make it work. Too bad :-)

Did you cut the tabs connected to the leafs on the bottom of the iris box?

Yes, I did, but the inner parts were stuck together and it was impossible to separate them. I will try rdominelli idea to scale it up 25%.

Best Iris box ever! Took a little wobbling with a box cutter but that was it works great thank you so much for this design!

Success! Finally managed to get a functional print on my CR-10. I scaled the model up by 25%. Under that size the sliding cover bits which comprise the top are so thin that I kept cracking them when freeing up the parts.

Definitely the coolest thing I have printed to date, Thanks for a great model.

No go for me. Printed and looked great, cut the tabs, popped the top all the way around and still frozen. So I try to pry the top a bit firmer and the whole bottom popped off. Going to dissect it and see where the inner doors are fused.

Tore it apart. All 4 of the inner doors had small sections fused with the inside part. I may try again with different filament or drop the temp. Or just skip this model. Who knows.

These early circumcision tools were brutal.

hi, how large are your internal clearances?

imho that design has a big issue... the external sphere, which needs to be "free to turn", is firmly stuck to the bottom layers, with no brittle parts. If you print hard solid, you will never be able to unstuck it, and this will result either to a "non working thing" or a "broken thing".
This design needs to have holes and bridges to make the external sphere "easy to unstuck"...
the other parts are wonderfull

If you slice with exactly 0.2mm layers as indicated, there should be a skipped layer between the external sphere and the base. Essentially, bottom layers act as a raft for the outer sphere, which you can then break free using a screw driver as shown in the photos. Also, if you read through the other comments, you'll find additional tips on getting the parts freed up.

there is:
on slice 5 the externals and internal rings start up to build
then on slice 6, (so skipping 1 slice of 0.2 as slice 5) the moving ring starts

gravity makes his work, and the 6th slice of it falls on the 4th slice, and sticks it as if there was no gap. The result is that it is as solid as if there was no skip, ans it is solid enough to resist any attempt to release it. The external ring crushes as the base slices are torn.
i really need to make a small raft and bridges to make that connection "fragile" to achieve this.


Leaving a single layer gap is how rafts are normally done. You do get some adhesion between the 4th and 6th layers, but is should be weak enough that it can be broken free pretty easily. (There's not that much surface area on the bottom of the outer sphere.) If it is really firmly stuck, you may be over extruding or printing at too hot a temperature or printing too slowly.

ok, but i'll try to have a 2 layers gap instead of one as Emmet does at layers 35 and 36 on the original
(and maybe some rafting here and here :)

thank you for the solidworks model !!!! that'll make it easier :D

(you can see my speeds in the video up, and i'm 200° PLA)

This box is really cool, i absolutely love it. I decided to print a large one, i printed it at 140mm diameter (which is 220% of original size) and it has printed really nice and looks fantastic. But sadly it won't stay closed :-( the mechanism has printed and works perfectly, but im guessing due to the weight of the iris leaves is enough to pull down and untwist the box :-(

Here is a little video of it - https://www.dropbox.com/s/fzod8jhfyyy202y/20170715_195505.mp4?dl=0

Can you think of anything i can do to add some resistance to the twist mechanism to help prevent it from opening on its own? Many thanks, i still love the box it is so cool!

Nice print! You could always just jam a wad of folded up paper into the gap between the base ring and the outer sphere. Or if you wanted to drill holes in the tips of the leafs, you could stick in small, thin magnets that would hold it closed.

Note that emmett's original design has a little flat section in the leaf's internal slot that helps hold his open. My design was too small to incorporate that feature.

Thanks for your response :-) i have now fixed the box so it works perfectly. The problem i think was because i scaled the box up to make it much larger, this obviously made all the tolerance gaps larger as well making the rotating outside shell a slack fit with no friction to hold in place it could easily turn due to gravity pulling the leaves down.

To fix this i printed some tiny little clips that sit around the perimeter of the base putting friction between the base and rotating outside shell so it can't rotate without a deliberate twist :-) the clips are simply stuck in place with a tiny dab of superglue.

Here is a little video show the clips and how well they work compared to the same iris box in my link in the comment above. https://www.dropbox.com/s/zy4ymwdvfzu028u/20170716_013324.mp4?dl=0

Fantastic solution! Would you mind sharing the file for this please? I'm having a similar problem on mine :/

Certainly, i have just added the clip as a remix (although i know it's not really a remix). Which you can find here - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2439820

Also, what scale did you print your iris box at? I need a bigger printer, because i really want an even bigger iris box now!! haha!!

Base Clip needed for Print-in-place Iris Box when printing it large

Very tidy solution. You should publish it as a remix.

Hi, I have as you suggested added a remix with this clip (i know its not a remix, but it makes sense as it keeps the iris box link it's designed for with it then).

Cheers :-)

Printed nicely, but i have the problem, that the box opens itself by the slightest touch or even the table vibrating

Printed at 100%, 0,2mm layer.

Her is a short video of the box opening https://www.dropbox.com/s/csle8365t7uhpbx/VID_20170701_164536%5B1%5D.3gp?dl=0

Hiya, i had the same issue with you when i printed this iris box (mine was printed at 220% size) i designed these clips which completely fix the issue of the box opening by itself, and they print in only 5 minutes :-) Thought they could be useful for you.


Do bear in mind that these are designed for the iris box when printed at 220% size, so if your iris box size is a different scale, then these would need to be scaled accordingly.

Base Clip needed for Print-in-place Iris Box when printing it large

I cannot get this to print. When I go to print it loads the layers and then it starts to load the insets and gets to 148 out of 373 it freezes for a second then says ready to print and then I have to restart it.

So unfortunately i appear to be ones with problems printing this. I cut in Cura 2.5 with .2 layer height on an Anet A8 through Octoprint, but after running a screwdriver around the base and cutting the connections on the bottom it doesn't even budge a little. Am i supposed to cut "OUT" something or just disconnect the tab from the base?

I guess i'll try cutting with slic3r next. would .1 layer height make any difference? which way is it (the base) supposed to turn anyway?

I have the correct nozzle setting, adjusted the esteps, and i'm not sure what the extruder multiplier is? I don't see any movement of the bottom tabs at all while trying to twist.

It's not quite as simple as running a screwdriver around the base. You need to stick the screwdriver in as shown and pry upward slightly to free the outer sphere from the base ring. You need to do this as multiple points all the way around the base. If it is still stuck, then it might be that you are over-extruding or don't have your retraction setting properly tuned.

Yeah i ran the screwdriver around aggressively. I tried a little harder after your post and the bottom came off. Breaking at the tab points. I've been trying to see where it is hanging up and still can't turn it after running the screwdriver around each of the leaves. I must have a problem in the print of the leaves sections even though when i tore it apart i don't see anything there either. I'll increase the retraction, it is currently set at 4.5 mm.

It took quite some effort to make it move, but eventually I succeeded. I had to apply quite a bit of force while prying loose the base. The, by wiggling it, it became clear that one of the doors was stuck: the others were moving a little but one wasn't. Careful insertion of an exacto knife (careful!) between the doors and the inner and outer shell, and finally a thin screwdriver along the troublesome door rim solved the issue with a satisfying "snap" sound.

Printed in 0.15 mm layer height, the gaps are too wide and the iris flaps are sometimes falling off joints. Does the layer height affect this? I also used the "detect thin walls" setting in Slic3r, so this may be the thing to blame.

ARGH... frustrating to print for 6-1/2 hours and have them not work.

The print looks good from the base and the top, I can only suspect that somewhere in between one or more of the 'leaves' is welded to the inner wall; which makes it useless... :(

I can pass a .004 feeler gauge between the leaves and the outer wall.

Make sure you haven't forgotten to cut the tabs on the bottom and also have broken the outer sphere free from the base ring (see photo inserting screwdriver into gap). If you are poking around with a feeler gauge, you should be able to slide into the gaps except for where there are pivot pins and actuator pins (see transparent photo).

Yeah, first thing I did was the tabs on the base and prying with small screwdriver. I just 'dissected' it and I was correct; a couple of the leaves were 'welded' to the inner-shell in some spots. One was almost monolithic, which tells me that in order to get a successful print of this iris I would/will have to play with settings... possibly A LOT.

Granted even using a different slicer could make the difference. It's almost too daunting when something doesn't work because in troubleshooting mode there are so many variables that the combination could be endless.

first thing you can start with is making sure the filament diameter is correct in the slicer, then esteps, then the extrusion multiplier. Most problems with print-in-place objects start with the incorrect extrusion multiplier; if the parts are stuck together your ex multiplier might be to high. Your right though it can be daunting to figure out the exact variables to why your prints aren't coming out like they should but you can rule out a lot of them buy just observing your printer print. The parts are fusing together; you're extruding too much filament; what settings control the amount of filament being extruded?Filament diameter, esteps, and extrusion multiplier(there are some more but these are the main ones). That doesnt work what else can it be? Maybe there's big blobs at the end of my loop causing layers to fuse so i need to increase the retraction. My point being is depending on the situation you can rule out 85% those variables leaving you with 15% of guess work.

Hmmm... tried this twice now on my MP Select Mini, and both times it stuck. I'm going to try a different slicer, as I've heard that Cura has some issues with this print, but has anyone successfully printed this with a mini?

I use a MP Select Mini, and mine worked just fine after popping a sticky flap. I'm using Simplify3d to slice.

Yeah, fifth try, no dice. I can print a 20mm cube to within .1mm, but can't get this to print right. I usually have no stringing or anything, but regardless of settings, sclier or filament, I can't get this to work at 100% scale.

What quality profile / layer height did you use? Would you share your factory file? I used Simplify3d with my MP Select Mini as well and the result was awkward :(

Hell thewill.
I used medium quality (2 mm) Here is the link to download my sliced file. Hopefully you wont have to pop the stuck flap. https://www.dropbox.com/s/lkumkpl117rwiiy/MP%20Select%20Mini%20Iris%20Box.gcode?dl=0

Let me know how it turns out!

Hey Travistx,

thanks for the file! It looked good, except for the bottom (it really should look like this, should it?). I cut the taps and broke the outer sphere, separated the inner one from the leaves, but I still can't rotate the thing. It just stucks. I tried to poke around with a scalpel between the leaves, but could get it to work :(

Picture of top and bottom: http://imgur.com/0r51YrY

Printed great. Prusa i3 Mk2. Prusa PLA. .2 res, standard Slic3r settings. Printed @ 120% after reading some of the comments. Will probably print again at normal scale because it is little loose. Mechanics work great. Broke free with a little exacto help. Free up the tabs (16) underneath. Run the exacto down all the interior gaps then between the rotating ring and the base. Easy peasy.

Thanks LoboCNC for the great thing.

This is my favorite print, thanks so much for designing it, I've make 6 so far and EVERYOne loves them.

This is awesome, mine came out great first shot. The only thing is that it keeps "catching" when I close the 'doors'. Any suggestions to loosen it up so it rotates more freely?

Rotating the outer sphere back & forth a bunch of times with a little downward pressure will help grind away the little burrs inside.

I assume one turns the top clockwise to close? I can't get it freed despite following the directions.

Correct - the outer sphere turns clockwise to close. If after you've cut the tabs on the bottom the whole unit seems rock solid, that means that the outer sphere has not been broken free from the base ring. This is where you stick a flat-blade screwdriver into the gap between them and pry gently upwards. If there is some movement of the outer sphere, but it still won't close, then the leafs are stuck. You may be able to shove a thin shim into the gaps to try and free them. Studying the semi-transparent CAD image will help you see what is going on.

Printed at 160% with Makerbot Replicator 5th gen. with Tough PLA filament.
There was no binding at all. If anything, was too loose as the lids aren't completely lined up when closed.
Just had to cut the tabs on the bottom and was all good.
Probably 140 or 150% would have been better, but this works.

Printed at 155% scale with xyzprinting DaVinci 1.0 and ABS filament and came out great. Printed as solid with no supports.

Earlier attempts at 100 and 110% failed. Almost worked, but the lids were too fragile and cracked while setting free.

Think I decided that the trick is to read the instructions and cut the little tabs on the bottom with a knife. Then, while trying to turn, look at the bottom of the 4 lid pieces and see which wiggle and which don't. Free the ones that don't wiggle...

Also, the other trick is to print at a larger scale...

Used a file folder plastic tab thing to slide down in and free up some binding...

Comments deleted.

Prints great! This is honestly one of the most amazing things that I've ever printed. Kudos to the designer!

That'd be emmett:)

Yeah, I'll still give you credit for improving the design :) Currently printing at 150% scale, and it seems reliable and easy to 'cut and pop'. Maybe this year's Christmas gift of choice?

Print looks great, seems like it really wants to move, but I can't get any actual rotation... cut the bottom pieces, ran a knife around the outter edge.. how deep do I need to run it to loosen the outter sphere? It printed well, can't really see any snags anywhere... Anyone have any secret advice that hasn't already been posted? :D

You free the outer sphere not by running a knife around the groove, but by sticking a small screwdriver blade in the gap and then prying inward gently. Do this around the whole perimeter. Check out the video posted by NeatherBot: https://youtu.be/L5bD2DMX8BE -- it shows really nicely how to get it freed up.

Yeha I did that with a knife. I found my problem after ripping it apart haha but some of the 'hinges' fuzed to the inner sphere so the leaves weren't truly free... amongst other things... gonna have another go at it tonight methinks.. gonna slow the print down a little bit too, and maybe poke my retract settings a tiny bit more.

Thanks for the cool design :D

Wooofff. Thanks to all of the incredible work by all in the design chain. Prints very well on Rostock V2 max with dual E3d extruders using BondTek filament drivers. Printing on BuildTak. Viki 2 running an Azteeg V3 pro board. Matter Control slicer. 0.4 mm nozzle.

205 degree C Polymax PLA. 5 mm retraction on move and tool change. Retract speed 45 mm/sec. Z lift 0.5mm. Extra length on restart 0.1 mm. Minimum move requiring retraction 1 mm. Minimum extrusion requiring retraction 0.5 mm. No Layer cooling. Layer height 0.2 mm. First layer height 0.3 mm. 3 perimeters. 3 top and bottom layers. 30% infill, triangles. Infill overlap 0.1 mm.
Cleanup tip. After cutting off the leaf tabs the leaves can be freed up if they are sticking by running the thin end of a 6 inch nylon tie between the leaves and the inner and outer shells.

Plug. Polmax PLA is by far the best PLA I have ever used. It is not only strong but is also tough and self lubricating to a tremendous degree.

Would you recommend printing this in PLA only or do you think that an ABS Print is doable? Has anyone made a working ABS Print?

I just made one out of ABS on a printrbot simple metal with heated bed at 1.6:1 scale. Worked Great

ABS should work OK if your printer is well calibrated.

A great and absolutely stunning model as this can not be built using "conventional" manufacturing techniques. Thank you!
Sliced with Skeinforce (50) it took about 5h to print and worked perfectly.
Unfortunately I was unable to produce another good print of the model using other slicers. I was trying MakerBot Dekstop v.3.10, Slic3r v1.2.9 and CarftWare v1.14beta with the same settings as far as possible. All G-Codes generated by the other slicers would either fuse the fins together with the inner shell at the edges or at the hinges. The problem seems to be different combinations of oozing, amount of extrusion for infills, traversing points and build-order of the individual layers by the different algorithms.

I would appreciate if some of you, who have successfully printed this thing, could share which slicer software you use.

Try KISSlicer :)
I printed mine in ABS on my Prusa i3 and it came out great.

Attempt one after work didn't work out in my favor... It literally exploded after I tried to unjam it for about an hour. On the plus side, I got to see the beautiful-in-it's-simplicity internal function and figure out why it jammed (The narrow trailing edge of one leaf (ONE) fused to the inner wall. I suspect I was running my PLA too warm. Still dialing this specific filament in in terms of temp...). Just curious; would you personally consider this compatible with a 0.5mm nozzle, or should I put my 0.4mm on just to be safe?

It's going to be easier with a 0.4mm nozzle. Everything will be a little sharper, and it shlould also ooze a little less. Good luck on your next try!

Decided to give it one last shot with the 0.5. Dialed in my temp and retraction settings and it came out lovely (After a 2 hour, 24 minute and 17 second print). Part of the base (Where the leaf supports were) did break off, but the function is clean in SeeMeCNC's translucent blue PLA. Which gives the added benefit of showing the internals if you hold it up to a light.

Awesome, I'll "Made it" later, thank you for this..

I wonder how well this scales. I printed two at 100% and they're perfect.

I would think this could be scaled up to 150% with no trouble. Beyond that, there are some overhangs on the internal pins that might start getting droopy. You might be able to scale it down to maybe 80%, but the clearances will get pretty tight and the walls will get a little thin for standard 0.4mm nozzles.

Printed this last night, cool design, did not work for me because most of the moving parts fused together. This is a good print to see how well calibrated your machine is. I will be re-calibrating my machine tonight. :)

I've cut the tabs at the bottom, but I cannot get this thing to open!

In addition to cutting the tabs, you also have to free up the outer sphere which rotates relative to the base. The easiest way do do this is to stick a very small flat bladed screw driver into the gap between the outer sphere and the studded base ring and pry back gently, working your way around the ring. You should hear the parts breaking loose as you work your way around. I'll post a photo of this shortly.

Yea, I ran my X-acto knife in that groove all the way around several times. I never really heard anything breaking loose. It won't even budge when trying to turn it. I just don't know. I did print at .15, with a .04 nozzle. Perhaps that made a difference. I printed on an Ultimaker 2+ which I get very precise prints. Oh well.

Running a knife in the groove won't free the sphere because the blade is at the wrong angle. You need to use a small flat bladed screwdriver and pry the outer edge of the sphere inward towards the center. Then you should hear it crack loose. I've uploaded a cross section photo so you can see what's going on better.

Brilliant! Perfect print on my first attempt.
I loaded the SLDPRT file into Onshape and created an animated assembly.

So i scaled mine up and now i'm having a problem breaking the leaves apart. Any suggestions? The studded ring is supposed to be turning CCW to close the iris yes?

Yes, to close, the studded ring goes CCW, although the way I think of it is the outer sphere turns CW:)

problem resolved, i broke the tabs on the bottom manually.

I just printed this and it worked fairly well... except for one thing. When I was breaking it apart, I managed to break the bottom ring (the one with the half sphere studs) apart from the center in three of the four connection points. I superglued it back together and it functions just fine. With a little graphite or some sort of lubrication, I think it would work pretty smoothly.

So, there probably need to be some reinforcement of the area where the bottom ring attaches to the center. I printed it with 3 bottom/top layers and 2 shells.

Good suggestion. I'll see about beefing up the bottom.

I had this problem too!

Seemed to print fine. It closed once with 3 of the 4 leaves. Then all four just fell out.

I've fixed the problem by adding some internal spacers to the outer sphere that keep it from shifting around when the box is closed. I haven't seen any more jamming in my test print.

Yeah, I noticed with mine that if it jams at all, the leafs can become dislodged. I'm going to add a little feature to make the outer sphere more stable which should help. Stay tuned.

Cool...! Trying it right now on another machine while my 3rd attempt with Emmetts is on another.

Comments deleted.