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KR2

Toothed Linear Bearing

by KR2 Feb 27, 2012
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The library is not available anymore. 404. Would be great to make it customizable in the customizer app.

there is a lot of play in my bearing and i found out is is because mt steel rod i got with my pursa i3 is not 8mm but 7.92 mm, so i plan to print these to see if i can eliminate the play

Do they work? This is brilliant!

Hi, been looking over your openScad files, and I'm struggling a bit. any chance you can give me some hints to changing the inner diameter of the baring?

thanks

ignore me. I finally found it at the end of the code :) Thanks :)

Im still rather new to printing so any tips to how setup slic3r to print these?

I rendered this and the cylinder perimeter and inner side is faceted. Not good.
I changed the code as below and now I get a smooth cylinder - both inside and outside. Much better.

@ line 83 & 84:
// $fn = n, gives a smooth perimeter where n = 80 or greater
cylinder($fn = 80, r=TLB_outerD/2, h=TLB_h, center=true);
cylinder($fn = 80, r=middR, h=TLB_h+2*OS, center=true);

Line 91:
cylinder($fn = 80, r=TLB_innerD/2 + stringWidth, h=TLB_h, center=true);

Line 99:
cylinder($fn = 80,r=TLB_innerD/2, h=TLB_h+2*OS, center=true);

Very cool! Linear bearings are far more expensive than PLA, though they might last longer. Definitely going to print some of these up for backups. I would suggest making square bearings (on the outside diameter) for easier mounting.

Linear bearings wear out and score the rods but these don't.

Hi there!
Nice design! The materials for the 3D printing technology has improved nowadays... I was thinking - will it be better if you print them with POM? This material has great success in linear sleeves design.

Great concept. I'm really hoping that I can get these to work, but I'm running into a very small snag (literally). I've printed some up, using Slic3r (my usual Cura made the tooth walls too thick), and filed them out until they slide effortlessly on my X axis rails. I'm using a silicone lubricant with PTFE (similar to super lube) on the rails. They tolerate fast motion beautifully (no signs of vibration or indication that they're binding), but with slow motion I run into a weird snag or lagging effect on my extruder head. It can most often be seen when printing circles, where the left and rightmost edges are sort of "squashed" or squared off. This seems to happen at the point where the X axis is moving slowest while drawing the circle.

One thing I considered was that the bearings might need to be "broken in" for a while, so I wrote some gcode that wiggles the head on the X axis in a ratcheting pattern along the rail. I think I ran that for about an hour or so, but I still get those squashed perimeters.

Any ideas?

Can you post the gcode?

Are you sure that you wouldn't have such an effect using a real set or bearings? This is a very common problem caused by too high (or even too low) Jerk value in EEPROM or firmware.

Hello. I'm not very familiar with openskad, could you make a model for the shaft diameter of 13 mm?

download openscad, its easy, open the file with openscad, change the variables needed, built from menu and export to STL

So.. all this talk back and forth can somebody please tell me the life of a bushing made of ABS from the printer to the rod without lubrication or oil or voodoo.

To be honest, I'd use PLA. Technically, ABS has more tensile strength and in the engineering world is considered the stronger material. However, this is not what you want in this case, You want a material that is harder/more rigid (PLA). These will work on even the worse quality rods. Whatever you use to hold this bearing, make sure it's adjustable. You can use this adjustment to collapse the printed bearing to accommodate slightly different diameter in rods. Print it in ABS or PLA, you'll be fine. Bottom line- the ABS might have more flex in it but will last longer: (14+ months plus).

this is a great idea, because traditional bearings can wear out the actual shafts, because it involves metal-metal contact. The shafts on my solidoodle have scratches all over them from the bearings.

With these bearings, the only part to wear would be the bearing, so your shafts should last almost forever.

My question is, is there a design for 16mm shaft version of these?

Would ABS be sufficient? I understand it will need to be replaced
every week or so due to the oils? What if I were to use gun grease?
Please respond im freaking out this is amazing!

A inner diameter of 9.9 and outer diameter of 15.89 make great SW6G(3/8") replacements

I use only this one bearings... Work perfect... silent.... and work whit all bars!

Very cool concept!

I am going to try building a printer using just these bearings.

Looking for white lithium grease, I stumbled upon some in spray form with PTFE added. How would that do? Would it still be safe? Would it work better or be overkill?

Super lube? It has PTFE and I use it, works great just spray it outside. The fumes will knock you out

Been using these for about 6 months now, no problems

I notice that the interior points of the bearing are not all the same. Some have multiple facets. Perhaps upping the facet count to be divisible by the number of fingers would help.

"OpenSCAD requires this lib http://github.com/kr2/MCADgithub.com/kr2/MCAD to work with this I use http://github.com/kr2/OpenSCAD-build-scriptgithub.com/kr2/OpenSCAD-build-..."

or add this to the scad file

OS = 0.01;
Z = [0,0,1];

or I added an file called toothedLinearBearing_noDependency.scad

Trying to render this but all I get are two Warnings of unknown variable 'OS' and 'Z' what am I doing wrong?

I think an drop of oil can't hurt.

What do you think about 3-in-1 Oil? It's a bit stinky, but has low viscosity. I'm curious whether it would soften PLA or corrode stainless steel.

Thinking about it, I would the rods would need to be greased?

white lithium grease works great and doesn't distort the plastic

I was going to look at buying some new LM6UU bearings to fix up my huxley, but may give this a go first :)