Omkar Yantra LED wall light

by papergeek, published

Omkar Yantra LED wall light by papergeek Nov 12, 2013
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This wall light consists of two pieces that are glued together with an LED lighting module inserted in between (see instructions for details). It hangs on a standard picture hanger. The sacred syllable 'OM" is in raised lettering in Devanagari script. In the example, I've inserted a filament change (M600 if the firmware supports it - it's an experimental feature in Marlin) at 1.7mm on the top piece to print the OM in gold filament.

The LED lighting modules consume very little power and need a 12 volt DC power source. You'll need cyanoacrylate (superglue) to glue the pieces together, or a hot-melt glue gun.

Blender sources are included at an early stage (before the font object is converted to a mesh) as well as in the final stage.

Credit for the Omkar glyph from the Sanskrit 2003 font goes to the Omkarananda Ashram.


Materials needed:

One 12V LED module - I used this one: http://www.frys.com/product/7728128?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
Alternative products that should work equally well: http://www.frys.com/product/7250343?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ZM-4047-CW/289-1199-2-ND/3727413 http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/Z-G4-WW/289-1196-ND/3727426
Note that LED modules have the required resistor built in and are polarity sensitive (positive needs to go to positive supply).

One 12V power supply capable of supplying 200mA (a larger one will work but will waste a little more power)

Cyanoacrylate adhesive, aka superglue, or a hot-melt glue gun

Soldering iron, solder, heatshrink tubing, hair dryer or heat shrink gun

  1. Print both top and bottom pieces using 0.2mm layer height. If you want the OM in a different color, insert a filament change (M600 for Marlin firmware - MakerBot has its own support for filament change) at the start of the 1.7mm layer. Optionally, also print 3 of the triangle pieces also at the 0.2mm layer height.

Note that the top and bottom pieces will need to be printed without a skirt if you have a 6 inch print bed. You will also need to scale all pieces to 77 percent when slicing (unless you have a larger print area).

  1. Connect the power supply wiring to the LED module. Strip both ends, twist, solder lightly, cover with heatshrink tubing, heat the heatshrink with a hair dryer on high heat or with a heatshrink heat gun. If using the optional triangle piece to cover the wiring, make sure it will fit before gluing in step 4.

  2. Adhere the LED module to the top of the bottom piece (in between 2 of the legs) using the self-adhesive backing, or use a hot-melt glue gun

  3. (optional) Glue the triangle pieces so that they align with the corresponding corners on the bottom piece. Make sure there's enough space for the top piece, and make sure the wiring fits in the channel beneath the triangle on the bottom.

You may also want to do this after steps 5 and 6, or try to do them all together.

  1. Put a single drop of cyanoacrylate adhesive on top of the six posts

  2. Carefully align the top piece and put it on the posts. Cyanoacrylate is a bit unforgiving when it comes to grabbing - you may not get to fine-tune your positioning, so make sure it looks good from above.

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The super-bright LEDs actually send quite a lot of light through the material. I was thinking this was going to be something like a night light or a mood light (I actually designed it for our baby's nursery) but it casts enough light that I couldn't get a good picture of it illuminated. Using white material instead of the glow-in-the-dark yellow would probably admit even more light through with not too much diffusion.