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Snappy RepRap - Snap Together Printable 3D Printer

by Revar, published

Snappy RepRap - Snap Together Printable 3D Printer by Revar Oct 14, 2016
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OpenSCAD

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Summary

The world's most printable 3d printer! (At least at the time I write this.)
A cheap, snap-together, nearly screw-less 3D printer (reprap) design that minimizes use of non-printed parts. Current parts cost: under $300, including the cost of plastic used to print the parts!

The two photos of parts shown above? Those were printed by my own snappy.

You can get the OpenSCAD sources at:
https://github.com/revarbat/snappy-reprap

Print Settings

Printer:

Prusa i3

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

0.25

Infill:

20%


Notes:

Designed to be printed in PLA. You can probably use ABS or other materials, but the snap joiners may need glue or acetone to hold the parts together better if the finish is too slippery.


Post-Printing

Assembly Tools

You will need the following tools to assemble this printer.

Qty Description
1 Multimeter for checking wiring.
1 Soldering iron.
1 Small rubber mallet to help convince some parts to join.
1 Mineral oil for lubrication.
1 Fine grit sandpaper to clean up the rails.
1 Optional cyanoacrylate glue. (super-glue)

Electronic Parts

You'll need controller electronics to drive the Snappy. Here's what I recommend. Prices given are based on what I found on Amazon with a cursory search. All

Qty Description Total Cost Where Found
1 Power Supply, 120W. (300W w/ Heated Bed) ~$20 Amazon.com
1 Controller electronics. (RAMPS1.4+2560+Pololus) ~$45 Amazon.com
3 Mechanical microswitch end-stops and wiring. ~$ 5 Amazon.com
5 NEMA17 Stepper Motors, 40mm length, 1m cable ~$65 Amazon.com
1 J-Head Extruder hot end w/heater, thermistor. ~$32 Amazon.com
2 40mm 12v 2-pin cooling fan, 10mm thick. ~$ 4 Amazon.com
1m Wire, dual conductor, 22 gauge, stranded ~$ 1 Amazon.com
1 Heated Build Platform. (optional) ~$ 9 Amazon.com

Non-Printable Hardware

You'll need the following Hardware to build the cartesian frame:

Qty Description Total Cost Where Found
2.4Kg Plastic Filament. (@ $30/Kg) ~$72 MatterHackers.com
2 ACME threaded rod, 3/8"-8 x 12" ~$18 McMaster.com
1 Extruder Drive Gear ~$ 4 Amazon.com
1 686 bearing. ~$ 1 Amazon.com
1 Borosilicate glass build platform. (213x200mm) ~$22 Amazon.com
4 Mini binder clips. ~$ 3 Amazon.com

Printed Parts

All parts should be printable inside a 150mm x 135mm x 110mm build volume.
The sled end-cap part, which is longer than 150mm, can be printed diagonally.

You will need to print out the following parts:

Qty Name
2 Rail X-Y Motor Segments (download)
1 Drive Gears (download)
4 Motor Mount Plates (download)
10 Rail Segments (download)
4 X-Y Slider Sleds (download)
2 X-Y Joiners (download)
2 Sled Endcaps (download)
1 Platform Supports Set (download)
2 Rail Y Endcaps (download)
2 Y-Z Bottom Joiners (download)
4 Support Legs (download)
2 Rail Z Motor Segments (download)
2 Lifter Rod Couplers (download)
2 Lifter Lock Nuts (download)
2 Z Slider Sleds (download)
1 J-Head Extruder Platform (download)
1 Extruder Motor Clip (download)
1 Extruder Idler & Latch (download)
1 Extruder Fan Shroud (download)
1 Extruder Fan Clip (download)
1 Cooling Fan Shroud (download)
1 Rail Z Endcap (download)
1 Spool Holder (download)
2 Cable Chain Link Sets (download)
1 Cable-Chain Mounts Set (download)

And one of the following motherboard mounts, depending on which electronics you use:

Qty Name
1 RAMPS MotherBoard Mount (download)
1 RAMBo MotherBoard Mount (download)

So, overall, about 160+ hours of printing.


Parts Assembly

Instructions for assembling the parts into the finished cartesian frame can be found at:
https://github.com/revarbat/snappy-reprap/wiki/Assembly


Connecting the Electronics

Refer to the wiring info given with the controller board of your choice.


Firmware Settings

I recommend Marlin firmware.
Whatever firmware you choose, though, here's the important parameters you're going to have to configure:

  • Steps/mm for X and Y axes: 80
  • Steps/mm for Z axis: 1007.875 for ACME 3/8"-8 threaded rod.
  • Steps/mm for extruder: About 96 (Will need calibration)
  • X & Y axes homes towards the minimum (negative) direction.
  • Z axis homes towards up/max/positive direction.
  • The X/Y position when homed is 0, 0
  • The Z position when homed is around 160, and you will need to calibrate this for your printer and extruder.

For Marlin firmware, edit these values in configuration.h:

#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFF
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
#define INVERT_X_DIR false
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR false
#define Z_HOME_DIR 1
#define X_MAX_POS 190
#define Y_MAX_POS 190
#define Z_MAX_POS 160
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 160
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {80, 80, 1007.875, 96.0}

For Marlin firmware, edit these additional values in configuration_adv.h:

#define CONTROLLERFAN_PIN 10
#define CONTROLLERFAN_SECS 300
#define EXTRUDER_0_AUTO_FAN_PIN 10

How I Designed This

This is basically the result of trying out a bunch of ideas I had about how to replace non-printed parts in various reprap designs with printed parts. Since I'm a programmer, I wrote it all up in OpenSCAD.

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I made the printer, but I am having trouble making it move. I have the correct code but the parts themselves won't move. How can the be fixed?

Thanks

Can I use 34mm Nema 17 stepper motors?

Comments deleted.

How much filament did this take?

Around 2.5 Kilograms of filament.

Great design! How do I send the printing file to the printer?

You can buy an lcd from printed solid if you use a ramps with marlin it just plugs in no need to configure firmware for it

You use a USB cable to control the printer from a PC, using a program like MatterControl.

This is such an awesome project! The print quality is surprisingly good and the printer is super quiet.

I made a video on the whole build: https://youtu.be/AMR9Lrf9uPM

Thanks Revar! You are the man.

Can you please give instructions as to how to install the software on the finished product? I'm not particularly experienced in making printers or electronics, so I need a bit of help.

Also, are any of the parts listed on the non-printable parts list optional except the heated bed?

That is common for all boards, not specific to this printer. Refer to the board manual.

What else should be optional? The steppers? xD

I finally have it printing. Latest Marlin Software, Ramps 1.4. Using a modified Extruder mount that I made, it can be found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2127016. This solved the slipping and clogging issues that I was constantly getting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDyg2TKLcCA

Thanks again for this printer design.

The slipping issues should be fixed in the v1.5 printer, as it uses a screw knob for an idler tensioner.

What tweaks did you make to the marlin software - can u post it somewhere for me to download please

My current printer is 220x220x240mm, and I was wondering if it'd be possible to make this printer that big (or around that size). I have the Anet A8. I'd probably use a power supply rated for that size, and stepper motors for that too, but I'm wondering what the names of the parts are that you'd say to print extra of...like can I print multiples of the thing that the heated bed slides on and snap them together as I would snap together the other parts?
I guess I'd need to find the names of all of the parts that I need to print extras of...so

What's the name of the Light orange parts that go Up and down
and the orange parts at the top of the printer that goes from side to side
and the orange ones at the bottom,
and the part where the heated bed is sliding from back to front?

If I used a bigger heat bed, say 214x214, would I have to scale up that blue part that's holding the bed? And if so, by how much? I'm still reasonably new to 3D printing. Only had my A8 for a month. Now I'm getting so many requests to make things for my family, I can't seem to get a chance to make things for myself.

wiring how would you do it if you dont know how to solder?

By learning how to solder. It's truly no rocket science.

Awesome idea :D for someone who doesn't have Parkinson so it's not matter of how difficult it is to learn but soldering is a problem for some who has Parkinson and hands that are constantly shaking

You wrote you don't know how to solder, not that you have Parkinson. But even with Parkinson it's not impossible. I've seen many people in our local workshop doing much more complex things having parkinson.

Get crimp lugs.. Or Google how to solder and watch a YouTube video. Its not hard and once you learn your unstoppable.

Any way to make this compatible with a BLTouch?

I had to google BLTouch. It should be doable, but will probably need modifications to the extruder platform.

Comments deleted.

Oh wow, kudos sir! This is incredible! Awesome contribution to the community, colour me impressed 0_o

  • Will

Nothing short of genius. This is a game changer. Im going to start a print of one of these shortly. This truly is RepRap personified.

Where have you wired the cooling fans on the ramps circuit board

Comments deleted.

I am makeing one
will be done in a week or so

DID YOU MAKE IT? HOW DID IT GO?

Hey, I'd like to include an LCD Screen. Can I still use Marlin Firmware?

Yes, but you need to edit Configuration.h to enable it for your specific LCD kit.

Comments deleted.

dont know if i missed it, but whats the minimum print area required to print this? i have a small M3D

HAVE YOU MADE THIS? I WANT TO TRY WITH MY MICRO M3D SOON

That would be SO AWESOME. If you build this with the Micro, you have to post pictures here in the "Made" section :)

HAVE YOU MADE THIS? I WANT TO TRY WITH MY MICRI M3D SOON

All parts should be printable inside a 150mm x 135mm x 110mm build volume. The sled end-cap part, which is longer than 150mm, can be printed diagonally.

Any ideas on revisions for a MP Mini? I would love to build one of these but my current build volume is 120mm x 120mm x 120mm

Just a heads up - you can buy a modification for the mp mini to take it to roughly a 125x250x120 build size -- which would make all but two of the models printable -- unfortunately one of those two is one that you need 10x of. =/

4th dimension modificaitons on facebook.

Some parts are a bit of a pain to modify to print much smaller, due to things like motor size and build platform width. I originally designed for a 200mm x 160mm printer, but I already reworked it to print on a 150mm x 150mm printer. Getting it down to 120 x 120 would require redesign of several parts like the sled end-caps.

I completely understand. I appreciate you responding.

Can you provide more details here? -- With only two lead screws, and no belts, how is the platform moved in the X and Y direction? -- Also, is it possible to print more of the segmented parts in order to increase the size of the frame (and thus the build area)?

The stepper motors directly move the sliders via a herringbone rack-and-pinion gear setup under the platform sliders.

It is possible to print more slider and rail parts to increase build volume, but you will need to account for that change with a bigger build plate and possibly longer lifter rods..

What kind of 300w power supply do you recommend? The only kinds I find at 300w+ are for computers. I'm not sure if those have the right connectors (i don't know much about electronics)

Here is a 360 watt at a reasonable price
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just make sure you order it from AVAWO on the right hand side of the page. I have an 8"x8"x8" and a 10"x10"x10" printer using this supply and haven't had an issue with either .... On the smaller printer the fan hardly ever kicks into high. Look around on this site and you can find a couple of covers with power switches you can print for it

Thank you, I have made a 3D Printer Parts List on Amazon for myself but it is public so people can find all the parts. It has all 12 Amazon parts listed on there including the 360 watt psu you linked me rather than the lower psu. You just need to order the non-amazon parts separately.
https://amzn.com/w/3B7F88SW6ELE1

I am not sure if these items disappear if I order them. This list is updated as the controller Revar linked are sold out and don't have Amazon prime.

Hey! Great desing! What is the difference between the Heated Build Platform and Borosilicate glass build platform? Thanks!

Having a heated build platform under your glass lets you print in ABS with less warp.

Thanks so much for posting this, i was having trouble with the .stls in GIthub.

sorry to bother but is there a soldering guide that I may use - its just I would not know how to wire it myself.

No problem all sorted now

Beautiful design. I really love your work. What are your thoughts on using a printed rack and pinion design for z-axis movement of the carriage to do away with the ACME screw?

Snappy v1.5 (Released soon) changes the Z axis movement to using a printed worm gear, completely eliminating the ACME threaded lifter rods.

That's great to hear; I'm looking forward to whatever you release!

I tried that first, but it seems I'd need to gear down the Z motors to lift the extruder bridge. Also, the Bridge had the nasty habit of quickly dropping the pointy metal extruder at the glass build platform when turned off.

"Yo dawg!..." Can't help myself: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/d8/41/47/d8414700a232431a1b610f52f9bfadda.jpg

Seriously though, this is pretty impressive. Nice work, and keep it up!

If only it were that simple.

well done! I like it a lot!

What is its build volume?

Roughly 190mm x 190mm x 160mm. Possibly more in X and Y depending on the endstop switch.

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