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1bigpig

Zero Offset E3D holder for Maker Select Mini

by 1bigpig Oct 18, 2016
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Has anyone tried this with genuine E3D V6? Also can you supply both parts as separate STL files please? :)

Thanks!
Xavier

I have not tried an E3D V6, as I only have a clone. You can separate the parts in a slicer program or MeshMixer.

I can confirm that this fits beautifully with a genuine E3D. Like to perfection, sits in there so snugly. I look forward to performing the install, will post a make when I can.

Just finished upgrading mine but now my hotend reads 350 when I turn it on. Can anyone please give me suggestions on what this could be and how to fix it? I would really appreciate it.

its you thermistor wire, you can buy them off aliexpress or places like this for around $0.50 you just need to solder it on

Just printed one and love it. Can you provide a link to the fan shroud you used?

Took me 8 attempts over 2 weeks with PETG but I finally got a usable print. My main problem was too much heat. 230c seems to be the sweet spot with Inland Natural PETG.

I've printed this mount but the M3 nuts on the front hit the heatsink and keep it from sitting flush in the holder.

I don't know if they (Monoprice/Malyan) are using longer screws or you are using a different hot-end vendor. I use a clone I purchased from Amazon and the screws do not touch the heat-sink. But I have also heard there is a lot of variability in heat-sinks between different vendors. I did include the 123D Design file that allows you to change the design. You might also try some small washers on the head of the 3mm bolts.

It wasn't the screw that was interfering with the heat sink, it was the M3 nut on the front. I filed the corner of the nuts down and it fits perfectly now. Here are some pictures.

http://imgur.com/a/1k0cQ

On the main part at the one end where it has the "legs" that come down (the end near the second small piece in the pic). Are you using a raft to help get this part to stick until it meets up with the rest of the part? This area has such a small contact area with the bed it keeps coming off the bed.

No, I am not using a raft. I printed mine in ABS using glue stick on glass. I usually level my print bed before a big print or any time I have to "wrench" a print off the build plate. So, my build plate is usually pretty level and I am able to get a good consistent first layer.

Hope this help!

Thanks. I am using a PEI sheet on glass and usually ABS stick great. Using a minimal single layer raft and so far so good.
I am assuming you print it in the same orientation as the pic?

Yes. Print as is. I did use supports but it was really designed not to need them. Still, I printed with them for "insurance" purposes, but I had no problem getting it to stick to the bed. There is plenty of surface area against the build plate for good adhesion. I cannot speak to PEI because I don't have a printer with a PEI build surface yet.

Is it required to use the tensioner in the back of the print or can we stick with using the spring tensioner?

Well, I used a tensioner that I 3d printed instead of the spring, but yea, you still need a tensioner for the belt.

This is the best adapter I've printed yet. All the others I've had to adjust or had some other minor issue with. Thank you very much.

Thanks! I hope it works out really well for you! Mine is still going strong!

Hackaday released the .stl back in october http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1848402

Monoprice Select Mini E3Dv6 Zero Offset Mount

Yea, I saw the article but never the STL file. So I created this one and released it mid October. Plus this one has the 123D Design file.

Wish I saw this before I mounted my V6, as the model I used offset the nozzle upwards and had to raise the bed more than I was comfortable with. Ah well.

You can always reprint a this new mount and give it a go. I have had very good luck with it--perfect fit and all--but I am using an E3D clone from Amazon. It is a quick print so you have nothing to loose but a few pennies worth of plastic. Note, use ABS or PETG. I would not trust PLA to hold this in place long term.

Mine is a clone as well, which is why it was too high. I just don't feel like screwing with the belt tensioner to get the nuts off, too lazy for that, but I will definitely try to remember to print this off before the next time I have it broke down. It's not a problem anymore, as I just picked up a borosilicate plate which made up the difference.

The problem with PLA is it is difficult to get it to clamp hard enough without breaking while still preventing the heatsink from spinning, but otherwise, PLA holds up as long as its quality.

Comments deleted.

Yes, the channel and the grooves are necessary because this is a zero offset mount. If you follow the link to the Hackaday article, in the second photo you will see why the mount is shaped the way it is. There are many other mounts on Thingiverse for the Mini and E3D, but they all push the extruder about 10mm towards the edge of the build table.

If you are worried about airflow, the 123d Design file is included, are you free to make changes. With that said, I have already printed quite a few things with my mount and have had ZERO problems with the heat break getting hot (or even warm).

I hope this helps.

Hi,

I haven't disassembled my hot end yet, and the e3d v6 clone is on its way. What I am curious about is why did you put a groove on the back side of your design? Is it necessary? I didn't see it on others designs and now I am not sure about its purpose?
Also is the cavity (? not sure if this is the right word) at the bottom necessary?
I have a few ideas about a channel for the air flow from the fan, and right now as it looks the groove is cutting my idea in half :(

coz this one goes inside whole way and top space is for upper wall of the black mount (on rails) and the space on back is for where belt clip on black mount