Greg's Wade reloaded - Guidler, Tilt Screws, Fishbone Gears

by jonaskuehling Mar 1, 2012
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I have No idea which of these files I need to print.

Haha the comments are still going strong on this extruder!
Thank you for adding the scad file. I created a version with a larger filament hole so I can try a 1/4" teflon tube (instead of drilling it out) for flexible filament extrusion.

its working with nema 14 ?

please clean up your versions. also make one with no support cause it's really hard to remove that premade support.

I have to point out that this is a really big big big big horribly messy creation.
So many files, so many versions..
How can a user select the right STL to download and print? its all a big mess !
I personally will appreciate if someone will write down for each file small description - what it is and and who need to print it.
Thank you..


Do you know if it could fit with a hyena hobbed bolt?

Thanks a lot

Can somebody post diameter of hotend mounting. I have an E3d clone and need to know if it fits.


I'm trying to fit an E3D V6 in the jhead version of this extruder. It does not looks like its goin to work. Can someone help me? What do I have to do to fit the E3D?

One of the files is to suit the e3d. Maybe clones don't fit? I have an original in one

Hi Jonas,

I tried to replace my standard prusa i2 wade with this one but it doesnt seem to fit my X-carriage. Flipping the extruder one way makes the motor hit the belt... the other way the larger hearingbone wheel get stuck on the belt clamps. Any advice on a better X-carriage for this model?

Thanks in advance!


have not for 1,75mm filament?

Comments deleted.

Has anyone used this as a direct drive extruder with an E3D? I'm trying to fit some teflon tubing in there to help guide the filament into the hot end.

I have an E3D V6 fit directly to the bottom of this (with the locking collar plate of course). I notice some wiggle, and I think I'm going to make a 1/32 or 1/16 spacer to fit between the V6 heat exchanger top and tighten it up. But on the whole, this extruder works very well and I've been very happy with the reliability and ease of use. Only with the mount holes were sideways for my setup, but that's no big deal.

Related to you, maybe- In my experience, the Teflon tubing isn't necessary. I DID have an issue with the V6 itself- The tapped hole of the V6 heat exchanger was not aligned to the untapped hole and it caused filament to turn at a sharp angle when feeding through and would prevent it from doing so.

At first I was leaving the hot end unthreaded a few turns, but that's sloppy and causes it's own problems, obviously. Recently, I disassembled and cleared it all out and threaded the steel barrel into the heat exchanger and used it as a guide with a 1/8" drill bit reamed the aluminum exchanger hole to align to the barrel. No feed problems after that. Check those two hole alignments if you're having an issue with the V6.

edit: I used a 1/8" drill bit because I have a 3mm extruder.

Where i can find the gears project in order to me customize?


Hi, thanks for the project.

What about support to the capacitive sensor in order to enable auto-level the 3d printer? anyone have the sensor mount project plus this extruder project?


What could be the possible causes that make the extruder moving while printing? Seems that the hole where you fit the extruder starts widing after a while. Partially solved using strips in the upper part avoiding them to melt. Any suggestions?

Does this work with e3d v6 j head , and when printing the main body do you print laying down with supports? And a parts list some where on the Internet's anyone know?

jhead version is the correct version for the V6. I didn't use any supports. There is one support piece already built into the model that you just break off. I think the hardware list is below if that is what you are looking for.

Hi, is there a required parts list for this? Nuts and bolts etc? Thanks

I bought a hobbed bold that has a hex head that is too big to fit in the big gear. I am trying to edit the scad, but can not find the big gear scad file or find it in one of the included files. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

I cannot seem to find an x carriage that will hold this. So I printed without checking and now I have no way to mount it. Any ideas? Prusa i3

Does anyone have a parts list of things i will need to provide other than the printed parts? Does any of the original hardware from the prusa i3 from hictec work? Which hobbed bolt do i buy? Thanks

Does it works with and hexagon hotend

What steps are you guys using for your extruder

What size filament does this take

1.75mm I believe. The picture looks like 3mm though...

Can someone please write a step by step on how to modify this with openscad? I've never used it and need to make this for my airwolf hdx. I have done much searching and no one really covers that. Thank you!

I'm afraid mate, you should really understand the script language of openscad, before tinkering with complex files like these. Is there something specific you want to achieve? I may help you there. One thing you also may consider is, using a design application to manipulate the resulting STL files. I can suggest to use Designspark mechanical as it imports STL files nicely und has got strong mesh manipulation tools.
Good luck anyway!

I'm looking to replace the extruder for my airwolf hdx with the jrx hot end. I'm not sure how much modifying that would take.

sorry for the stupid question but what is this for

I am printing my 5th one of them now. They print well with ABS, Nylon and PLA. Also the resulting STL files are easy to manipulate and the extruders are very durable and easy to apply. Thank you very much for this design!

My Apologies if this has been asked already:

I have a Velleman k8200 modified with the E3D v6 hot end. When I looked at the stl files, i noticed 2 files that are groovemount, one marked as SAE groovemount. My question is which groovemount file should I be using ? The SAE looks a little bit larger where the hot end meets the extruder plate. I'm in the process of printing both but wanted to see if there was a general consensus on it. Thank you.

So which one was better?

Hi Nilz, I ended up printing the groovemount originally. It fit however on the k8200, the motor was pressing against the railing that the extruder mounted to. I ended going with this instead: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:961630

Ultimate Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder - 30mm version

Can I use it with mk7 and m5 nuts?

Can anyone mirror this model so that the motor would be on the right? I use a mendel90 and it is the only way I could use it.

In jonaskuehling_gregs-wade-v3.scad add the mirror() function prior to the wade and idler function calls around line number 45 and the export stl. This worked for my Mendel90 Sturdy.


wade(hotend_mount=groovemount , legacy_mount=false);

//wade(hotend_mount=reprapfaborg_mount, legacy_mount=false);

//wade(hotend_mount=jhead_mount, legacy_mount=false);

//wade(hotend_mount=arcol_mount, legacy_mount=false);

//wade(hotend_mount=grrf_peek_mount, legacy_mount=false);



translate([78+extra_gear_separation,-10,16.20]) // POSITIONING




An SAE version of the J-head mount would be great as well...

You big gear is not straight. It warped when printed, try to print it with a brim!?

How does this mount to the x carriage? Is there an adapter plate?

How can I tell if this one will fit on a Printrbot LC carriage? If it can, which of these downloads?

Just printed my 4th one of them. I really like the well documented SCAD files of yours, as well as your small design, compared to the first gregs/wade, which came with my Prusa i3 parts.
Beside i took the chance to have a look at your industrial reprap printer and suddenly fell in love with the ideas, applied to it. Unfortunatly i can't effort one myself but the bedlevel tool, aswell as the tensioner inspire me to design stuff for my own one. Thanks alot for your contributions to open source communities.

What kind of bearing goes in the idler? 608ZZ seems to be too big, but maybe I just need to sand it down a bit or reprint.

Hi JonasKuehling!
I make some little changes for idler (parametric filament diameter and some others) maybe I send this for you for upgrade this Thing?
Petr Mironkin.

Could you send/post the scad files for the fishbone gears ? want to derive it a little bit for myself

The roots of the gears should be these by Greg:


Parametric Involute Bevel and Spur Gears

Hi JonasKuehling,

Yes, I have seen the gears library.
But I am rather interested in the exact parameters of the biggear, how to use the "Involute Bevel Gear".
Supposedly you need the call the code twice to get both halves of the fishbone gear.
The Offered openscad code has normal gears only.

Thank you


I'm sorry, just took the readily available gears from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5268 and those didn't come with actual sources, just guess that they were made with Greg's gear library..

Wade goes Fishing

Idler is not made for 1.75mm filament diameter even though the correct value is put in filament_feed_hole_d. It is hardcoded to 3.5 causing the idler to be way too loose for 1.75mm filament.

Can you upload a small gear for a 4mm shaft?

I was hoping to use this extruder with a Nema 23-style motor that I have. It's going to be a Bowden-style extruder, so I'm not concerned about it sitting flat on the X carriage.
Would it be worth the trouble to modify? I suppose I'd modify "nema17_hole_spacing" in some way and adjust the diameter of the mount holes? Is there a great deal that has to be done to allow for this?

Question: Does this design have the same tourque requirements for the motor as the original Wade Extruder? I am trying to build a very cheap reprap and found quite a big price difference between motors with 3200 in tourque and those with 4000 (recommended for the original Wade extreuder)

Question: Which X-Carriage should I use with this design? It doesn't appear to be comparable with the stock Prusa i3, and I was wondering if there was any specific carriage that I should use

Can I change the slot of the idler for 1.75 filament?
I changed extruder itself into 1.75mm version, but the slot of the idler remains for 3mm.

Is there a source for all those variables? For example jhead_mount=256. What does this mean? Some reference would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

When using a j-head hotend is there any advantage of using the jhead version over a groovemount?

This extruder seems great!. I just printed one out, disassembled my printer and realized it does not fit on my prusa i3! =(.. I've searched the web for this reloaded one now for some time but can't find one. Anyone here that has done the mods for prusa i3? Would appreciate a lot. Thanx anyways for the design, just bad I could not use it.

I want to use a prusa Nozzle which stls should i take ?


Slic3r still appears to have trouble with the STLs output by this model. Non-manifold, holes near edges, etc. I suspect it has to do with the idler fulcrum, since it looks hollow if you look at it in OpenSCAD, but I have no experience to back that up.

I like this extruder and have been trying to print various variants for about the last week. Hit the same issue as Thav described where it is not slicing properly in Slic3r.

So, anyway, Nettfab was able to fix it, but better than that it also shows where the issue is so the SCAD file can be fixed too. It appears that the problem is some intersecting corners inside the screw holes. At this bit of code:

// screw holes 30°

Found that it could easily be fixed by replacing that section as follows:

// screw holes 30°

Okay, I have designed this one in OpenSCAD to be compatible with the Budaschnozzle, very exciting how it prints! :)

All I did was remove the extruder hole, really curious if it works.

Oh, and ofcourse I set the layer print height to 0.325 (what I'm printing it with).

Just ran fresh out of my good filament, so now printing it with some mediocre filament I bought with the printer that the vendor ripped me off with... Wish me luck!

Tomorrow I'm receiving my Budaschnozzle, going to fit it on my Reprap Air, also reprinted the X-carriage, but I'm not sure if I'm using the best one for my printer.

Thanks for this nice Extruder!

Slic3r tell me that there is an hole and also that some face are overlapped.... any help?

Ran it through netfabb and it cleaned it up for Slic3r. No problems slicing, although it did do something odd where it would cover some of the holes with a single layer infill around the middle. This was easy enough to cut out afterwards with a knife.

This is normal and actually done on purpose. It gives the nut-traps something to sit on during the print so they are not floating in the air around the hole. It should only happen for the holes that print vertically and have the nut-trap on the bottom. DO NOT remove them from the file or you will have a mess trying to get the nuts to seat. Like you said they cut out quite easily after the print.

I get that all the time, I just make it a habit to looking at the gcode in pronterface to check that it is already.(It usually is)

I place my J-head into the holder, but even though it is flush, the screw hole mounts are partially blocked (maybe 30%). Is this normal?

Anyone who can tell me where the printed ring has to go?

Currently printing the herringbone wheels, after I will start the body. I have bought a new hotend which has a less-wide piece of PTFE insulator so I guess I have to print the 'Groovemount' version instead of the one with the screws that go in from the side to lock the hotend.

The ring goes in the bottom (as printed) bearing pocket. I assume because this pocket is created with bridging and the bearing seat would need to be flat and smooth. That's how I installed mine anyway. Even so, I had to do a lot of hand trimming in the pocket to make the bearing seat flush and perpendicular to the filament path. YMMV...

Thanks for the info, actually my repetier crashed and the whole print failed just a few minutes before finishing. The hotend ruined the part by melting it when it stopped moving in the middle of the part...


Will print again soon!

Some of the stl files have holes (jonaskuehling_gregs-wade-v3_groovemount, jonaskuehling_gregs-wade-v3_jhead, jonaskuehling_gregs-wade-v3_reprapfaborg).

So, i tried to regenerate STL exports, opening scad file with Openscad 2013-01. Exported file contain holes and slincing with slic3r did not render proprely.

So i tried with openscad 2013-03, or an older 2011-12. Results were the same....

Any idea on what is the problem? What version of openscad did you use to render good files :

  • jonaskuehling_gregs-wade-v3_jhead
  • jonaskuehling_gregs-wade-v3_jhead-BODY-ONLY
  • jonaskuehling_gregs-wade-v3_SAE_groovemount

PS: Render have been done on mac...

Where are the SCAD files for the gears? I tried to compile the gregs-wadebits.scad with the needed inc/parametric_involute_gear_v5.0.scad and just got the standard gear.
Great derivative of the extruder. Nicely done.

Yeah, looking for these now. The Wade Goes Fishing thing this is marked as derived from may be it, but it's missing some includes.

I know this is old, but, I found the include at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3575http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Parametric Involute Bevel and Spur Gears

Is there anyway of buying a full kit of this? plastics, screws, spring etc.


Any way of getting a detailed BOM?

Can I get lengths, types of springs, etc

Answered elsewhere:
3 x 608zz bearings
1 x Hobbed Bolt
2 x Springs
2 x M4 rods
1 x M8 (small) smooth rod
2 x M8 Blocking Nuts

Anyway of getting a detailed BOM list? Rod length and what not. Thanks in advance.


I noticed a few small things I wanted to add in. Does anyone have this in a solidworks file they could possibly send to me including the herringbone gears large and small. thab2knoe@yahoo.com. Thank you!

Hi! Thanks for the work on this extruder!
I was wondering if you can upload a fully-assembled extruder (all the components here presented) as .stl because in the software I'm using I'm not able to align the independent components and I don't want to shift to scad. Thanks!

where can i find the scad file to generate the herringbone gears for this exturder?

I am having issues every time i print the small gear mod hole dia 4 2 stl the end with the teeth are open. you can look down in to the gear asee that they are not connected but at the bottom. the hole that runs through is all the way up everything seems nice and straight and free of error. but i dont' think the end is supposed to be open.. any help?

anyone who has the specs of the bearings that have to be used?
Looking for some kind of BoM of this nice extruder!

3 x 608zz bearings
1 x Hobbed Bolt
2 x Springs
2 x M4 rods
1 x M8 (small) smooth rod
2 x M8 Blocking Nuts

Hi, I'm working on my first Prusa and I'd like to use this extruder in my build.  I have purchased a 1.75mm 0.35mm nozzle MakerGear hotend kit.  To make that work with this extruder all I have to do is set the hotend mount to be groovemount, set the filament feed hole to around 2.25, set filament diameter to 1.75, and I should be good to go correct?

I've put some assembly instructions with phots up on this page:


It's a wiki, so feel free to edit.

Hi. I got my extruder parts today, and they include two gears, two main parts, and a plastic washer (approx 22mm x 15.5mm x 1mm). Where should it go? I guess it's for one bearing or the other, but not sure. Also, there seems to be some space behind the semi-open bearing holder. Kinda looks like it's for a metal washer. Is it? I know it's simple, but some instructions would be good. Couldn't find them anywhere! :(

Thanks in advance.

Hi, the printed washer goes on the gear side behind the bearing it performs the same job as the gap you mentioned on the other side, stops the inner part of the bearing from rubbing as the hobbed bolt rotates. No need for a metal washer there.

Thanks for an awesome design but I think I'm doing something wrong. I have a J-head MK-IVB with an acrylic groovemount piece. My old original greg's (i think) had a much shallower hole at the bottom and fit perfectly but with the deeper hole in this design my j-head moves every time it extrudes.

What am I doing wrong?

Seriously struggling....

As i have no j-head laying around, could you please give me the measurements of the upper part of the j-head insulator? If you tell me the distance between the center of the groove and the top of the insulator I will have a look into the code to verify the values.

Otherwise you could try one or more washers inside the hotend-insulator-countersink to fill the gap?

Any chance you have had a look at making it more j-head compatible? I have looked through the scad file and deduced I am not capable. Really want to print out another as I had warping which is now sorted.

That would be awesome. Mine measures 4.96mm. I will be including this and your x ends in my kits, really good stuff. For now I will use this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26355http://www.thingiverse.com/thi....

J Head Mounting Plate

Is there anyway that I could get the parts in Solidworks format or step file format or iges file format? Or just get the dimensions so I can draw it up myself? I would like to model the whole thing up in Solidworks assembly before I try to build it. Thanks.


unfortunately this model is just coded directly in OpenSCAD and therefor only available in .scad format or exported as STL.
You cand find alle dimensions in the OpenSCAD code of course. Or maybe you could use some tool like netfabb basic (http://www.netfabb.comwww.netfabb.com) - which is free for personal use - to meas
ure all necessary dimensions directly on the STL to recreate the model in SolidWorks.

But if it's just to test the assembly i am quite sure you can import an STL into SolidWorks as well!

I would suggest the following 3 changes to the design .. if you would like me to make some changes to the SCAD i can try and send them to you. Please advise :

  1. The suport of the idler Hinge has a small base that just goes up and connects fully to the hinge -- I had great trouble printing that in ABS -- there is no need to make it that small .. it should have a wider base at go up conically to attach to the hinge.

  2. The top of the main extruder ha
    s nearly ZERO thickness for the screw holes the top is almost one layer at the apex of the hole -- top could be made another 1mm taller at that point so that screw/bolt doesn't fly out the hole ..

  3. The idler holder has "rounded" top-sides - that seems cosmetic only but it's making the top thi
    n/weak .. one could just make a clean square part.


thanks a lot for your feedback. Currently we're working hard on a new RepRap prototype as well as more projects, so spare time is rather limited.. If you got the skill, please feel free to publish a derivative of this extruder containing your mentioned modifications as I see only little chance to
have a take on your request soon.

Thanks in advance,

Awesome mods! One quick question:

Has anyone had any luck printing a 1.75mm version? When I change filament_feed_hole_d and filament_diameter, it seems to mess up the idler (or at least move it off z=0).


I was about to post the same problem, that it is common with Greg's too. I guess we'll have to find out our way :-)

It seems that you only need to change filament_feed_hole_d=2.2; and Bob's your uncle.

I ended up just printing generating the extruder and the idler separately and them plating them up so that the z offset didn't matter.  It works like a champ.

Hi! This looks quite awesome! But I just have a few questions:

How much Z-axis space would I lose if I go with the groove mount or the J-head mount? I'm using a J-Head MK-IV B and I'm barely at the 100mm Z-height and I'd like to keep that (actually, it'd be really cool to improve that, but I think I'd need to redesign a few things :) )

The other question is
this: what infill % would you recommend and material? I read that for the heringbones it's best to use about 80-90% infill and PLA due to the hardness. What do you think?

Thank you and thank you very much for the design and files :)

As to z-axis space the prusa design is quite limited. Using a http://reprap-fab.orgreprap-fab.org-hotend* along with this extruder will lead to 80-90mm possible print height, depending on the design of your printbed.

*) which is of a comparable length as a J-Head I think, about 65-70mm.

Let me quickly fill in for jonas since he is quite busy an the moment - at least for the infill and material-questions.

We usually print our extruders at 25% rectilinear infill, 3 solid layers and 3 perimeters with slic3r - which gives a nice sturdy part. Our standard layer height is 0.25mm with a 0.35mm nozzle.

You really want to print the extruder body in ABS due to the thermal load that conducts through the ins
ulator and the thermal radiation from a heated bed.
You MAY have luck with a PLA extruder if you only print PLA without a heated bed - depending on the hot end and insulator-ventilation of course.

The Herringbones do also fine with the slicing settings mentioned above - PLA is in fact really hard a
nd well-suited for the gears, but ABS works great as well if you add some silicone-lubrication-spray every now and then. My oldest ABS wade gear did more than 1000 hours of printing to date without noticeable wear.

Hey, could you upload the gregs-wadebits.scad for the modified gears? I want to make sure amount of teeth are correct, so my calibration will be correct... :)

I'm using this one as it was the one Iliked the most of all other Wade ones...

Hi, actually I only modified the STLs from Stoffel15's Extruder which I linked this to be a derivative of. There's a thing here in the thingiverse, called something like "parametric herringbone gears" or similar what I suppose to be the initial source for Stoffel15's gears.

Looks like this one may have been the one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3575http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Parametric Involute Bevel and Spur Gears

This extruder looks great.

Am using openscad+slic3r 0.7.1.

I'd love to print it but slic3r is filling in the bottom half of the hot end mount hole. It also omits the bottom hole for the long tilt screws.

Not sure why the problems as I have the layer height set correctly and have tried different slic3r perimeters, fill an
gles etc. but still can't seem to slice it correctly. Can you share your slic3r config?

Did you try fixing the generated STL via http://cloud.netfabb.comhttp://cloud.netfabb.com before slicing?

Thanks Jonas

I was previously using the desktop netfabb studio basic software but maybe I wasn't doing the repairing correctly.

Anyway your tip to use the cloud netfabb service worked.


Thanks for you feedback, good to hear that you got it working :-)

I cant align those herringbone. can you help with some assembly instruction.

I will upload a photo of the assembled extruder this week.

I attached two photos of the assembled extruder at one of our printer prototypes. The quality could be better, but it's the only idle printer at the moment since all the rest of our printers are busy day and night.

I hope you can guess how it all goes together. There need to be washers between the big gear and the extruder body which quantity depend on the position of the hobbing along the hobbed bolt, to align the hobbing with the filament feed. The position of the small gear needs to be adjusted to fit the
big gear...

I want to use this with parcans mk2 hotend, which has a groovemount fitting. However, the groovemount stl does not appear to have anything to hold the groove :s am I missing something?

Groovemount usually uses additional wooden or metallic mount sheets that are fastened together with the extruder body when mounted onto the x-carriage like the parts you see at the attached photo from the Makergear website. The top of the insulator is pushed into the extruder body while the groove stays right beneath the body so that some kind of mount piece can slide into the groove to hold the insulator in place.

If you prefer to fix the insulator directly inside the extruder body you should try a hotend mount option like "jhead". Can't promise that it will fit your insulator dimensions, you should check that before.

Hey, I guess you commented out the translate() call (around line 460 if I get it right) where the legacy_mount option applies. I guess that you probably want to make the legacy_mount option default to "false" for wade() and reenable this line. It lets us Mendel users print great your great coldend :)

Good point, done :-)

Please could you upload a 0.35mm layer height version?

Sure, which hotend-mount do you need?

J-Head (16mm) please :-)

Allright - I can't promise to upload it this weekend, but next week will probably work.

I've uploaded your desired J-Head 0.35mm layer height STL.


Would it be possible to get an stl of the jhead without the idler on there? Just the body with the J head mount? I'm printing it on a modified Huxley and I'm not able to fit the entire stl on my build plate. Thanks!

Sure - can't promise to upload it this evening, but as soon as I get back to my desk I will.

Which layer height do you prefer?

A jhead-body-only-STL has been uploaded a few seconds ago - made it for 0.25mm layer height for now.

Hi Jonas. Great work on this. Forgive the potentially silly question, but ...

I assume that - if I just print the body for the extruder (i.e. without the idler, gear, etc.) - it would be compatible with my old Greg's Wade extruder?

(I would be printing it for a J Head nozzle.)

Nice photos - what kind of camera/lens do you use?

Thanks, it's a Canon PowerShot G10 as well as iPhone 4.

I've tried using Slic3r 0.7.1 with stls (both 'fixed' by netfabb and direct from openscad) of 0.25, 0.3 and 0.4mm layer height, (for an Arcol - which shouldn't be a factor) and in all instances, the bridging from 'island' to support the lower face of the hinge is non-existent (as shown in the screen capture of the 0.25mm layer ht gcode). FYI, I also measured the height from build base to bottom of bridge (in the 0.4mm layer height model): 7.75 mm / 0.4 mm layer ht = 19.375. Is this fraction of a missing layer (19.375 vs 19 or 20) causing slic3r omit the bridge? As you can see, all other bridging appears to be OK. I did try printing - it failed . :'(

Is it possible you could share a slic3r config file that worked with this part please?

Send me an email, I'll see if I can help


Thanks for your offer. I found by changing the angle of the infill (from 45deg to 60deg), slic3r creates a bridge for the hinge by stringing it 'north-south' - not 'east-west' as sfact does.

I love this version expecially for those that like to change the filament alot. However I think there is a small design flaw with the idler for this fitting? With the angle that the idler sits at when it is tight enough to hold the filament in place, the top is closer in than the bottom, so this 'encorages' the tiltable screws to want to shift up as you tighten and I fear they may pop off the idler. If the back of the idler got thicker towads the top, then this could encorage the spung tilable screws to move down when tightened and lock into place rather than up. I hope I explained that clearly. :-E

OK well I printed mine with a modified Idler and for me with spring loaded tiltable screws it hangs on much better now without the screws wanting ti slide off the top. I change the angle of the back of the ider by 10 degres so it was thicker at the top. That wa th bacl does not slopw in such a way they the springs want to pop off. Another solution is to pack the holes inside the idler where the bearing is held to bring it forward a bit. then the idler does not lean forward so far.

It might be a difference in your hobbed bolt where the hobbed filament groove is slightly deeper than usual..? This would lead to a shifted filament position and therefor to an angled idler..

I've printed and assembled dozens of this extruder so far and they all fitted well. Nonetheless it wouldn't hurt to have a parameter to adjust the position of the idler hinge for individual adjustment according to the used bolt. I will have a look at the code to check that.

I have posted a modified rear guidler stl file http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19997http://www.thingiverse.com/thi.... Not sure why min was different. Might be the sise of the bearing I have in the back but its the same as all of the others

Bill D

Modified Guidler for Greg's Wade reloaded/tiltable

Alright, your modified guidler should solve the problem for most people having simmilar issues. I will upload an updated version of the main SCAD though, with an additional parameter to adjust the guidler-bolt-distance in a range of about 1-2 mm if anyone else needs to. Will note that in the thing-description as soon as the new version is uploaded.

Is this compatible with a makergear hotend? Im not sure how hotend is supposed to mount. Making my first reprap right now. Im making a sae reprap but i wanna just make the extruder metric. Are metric parts easy to source in Hawaii? Any suggestions as to what to choose.

The Makergear hotend makes use of the groovemount option, so yes, it should be compatible with the groovemount version of this wade extruder.

Thank you!!!

but saddly i just printed the jhead version. Are their adaptors or do i need to reprint it?

could you please upload just the center frame thing (for groovemount) by itself. Thank you

There are great similarities between jhead and groovemount - both use insulators of 16mm diameter. The main differences are in the depth of the insulator-hole (groovemount is 5mm deep, jhead 10mm) and the way the hotends are fixed to the extruder. Groovemount hotends usually are just put into the hotend-mount-hole of the extruder but fixed via an additional mountplate that slides into the supplied groove of the insulator underneath the extruder. This mountplate is then tightened together with the two extruder-mount-screws onto the x carriage. The jhead style mounts don't need extra mountplates but are fixed via two screws that go right through the extruder body, passing the insulator-groove that is pushed inside the deeper mounting hole so that the insulator is hold inside.

I don't know the exact measurements of the makergear hotend, but there might be good chances that it is compatible with the jhead hotend mount option. Maybe anyone else could please confirm this?

Otherwise there even better chance to quickly sketch a little adaptor that shouldn't be much more tha
n a 16mm dia cylinder of 5mm height with a about 3.5mm center hole for the filament. This should transform your jhead mount into groovemount, I think.

Also any suggestions on the hobbled bolt?

There's a chance this could get merged into the main Prusa repository. However, Joaz has some good points about the licensing and the fishbone gears: https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/issues/56https://github.com/prusajr/Pru...

Hi Pawl, please contact me via email if I can help somehow:


It might be worth asking Greg to clarify his licensing terms - or ask why he changed from GPLv3 to "Creative Commons - GNU GPL license" - is that one licence or two, I don't know - I haven't spent long enough reading to understand the subtleties of CC-SA vs GNU GPLv3 - but they do appear to clash:


Below is the source code from the Prusa github repo. It shows Greg's Wade Extruder licensed under GNU GPLv3.

// Greg's Wade Extruder

// PRUSA Mendel
// GNU GPL v3
// Josef Průša
// josefprusa@me.com
// http://prusadjs.czprusadjs.cz
// http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendelhttp://www.reprap.org/wiki/Pru...
// http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMehttp://github.com/prusajr/Prus...

And this is from the Greg's Wade scad file:

// Greg's Wade Extruder.
// It is licensed under the Creative Commons - GNU GPL license.
// © 2010 by GregFrost
// Extruder based on prusa git repo.
// http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6713http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

This is the issue which needs clarifying with - and p
robably sorting out by Greg.

Accessible Wade's Extruder

Is there source for big gear? I need to move hobbed bolt 2mm deeper...

Not a real source file as you would expect, I just hacked Stoffel15's STL files via import(); in OpenSCAD. If you conatct me via email I will send you a modified version.


Nevermind, I edited it with blender. Thanks for offering.

Btw your big gear model has issue - on level approximately where it starts to print bolt head it tries to bridge all space. At least Slic3r does.

Also openscad crashes on it.

It's working all fine for me, even with slic3r 0.6.0, 0.7.0 and 0.7.1.

Did you try netfabb before slicing? http://cloud.netfabb.comhttp://cloud.netfabb.com

Awesome, I've printed it already.

It would be nice to have nut-traps for the bolts in the GRRF hotend version to get more clearance for the gear.

I just uploaded a new version of the main SCAD file containing the modifications you requested. There are nut-traps in the GRRF hotend mount at the gear-side now. Please note that there's a support layer that needs to be drilled between nut-traps and screw holes for printability. My default layer-height is set to 0.25mm, so you might want to adjust the "layer_thickness" parameter in code for your own needs.

Great thank you!

flattred you ;)

My second flattr ever hehe, yeah!


Could you Make a .STL of the Small Fish gear with certer bore of 4.2mm? I have tried, but the code keeps crashing on me.

Thanks a Bunch!

Done 8-)


Awesome, Thanks a bunch!

Great job! 8-)

This is 3mm filament version, isn't it? Is code configurable to make 1.75mm version?


This is configured to be a 3mm version, right. But sure it's configurable since the whole extruder is totally based on Greg's code.

You might be interested in lines 178/179:


So changing these values to 2.25 and 1.75 should work, I think.

Unfortunately it does not work. First of all idler movez from Z=0 coordinate, and extruder itself I think is incorrect.

I saw the same issue. It seems that filament_diameter changes the position of the idler holder relative to the extruder. In this version, changes away from 3mm also put a z offset on the idler. Changing either parameters also don't change the size of the filament guide on the idler, which remains at 3mm.

I was going to just print them separately to get over the offset error and accept that the idler would have 3 mm guide but I came across this version. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20413 .

DougC has parameterized it. All you have to do is change the filament diameter and everything else adjusts as needed. He also changes the diameter of the grove on the idler.

Greg's Wade reloaded - Guidler, Tilt Screws, Fishbone Gears, Parametric Filament

Did you get this figured out rglory? I would like to print a 1.75mm version too. Thanks.

I think you may have forgot to upload the following inc/parametric_involute_gear_v5.0.scad ;)

The gears are derived vom Stoffel15's "Wade goes Fishing" http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5268http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

I modified the STLs via STL-import with OpenSCAD for better fit of the nut slot etc.. Didn't notice how the gears were made or where they were derived from. So thanks for the hint anyway :-)

Wade goes Fishing

I'm getting too much shrinkage in the area of the idler screw slots, and would like to print the idler by itself. How big a chore is it to separate the idler from the body? I guess it just needs to be removed from the .scad file. Which file has the jhead body in it? Great job! You cleaned up a bunch of irritating issues.

The main file containing both, the wade body and the idler, is the first you find in the list on the left, it's called "jonaskuehling_gregs-wade-v3.scad". Somewhere in the first quarter of the code you find a few lines that call the different modules like "wadeidler()" and "bearing_washer()" and arrange them horizontally for printing. the wade body is called somewhat earlier, I marked the lines with "/////// RENDER EXTRUDER ///////" so I'm sure you can't miss them :-) Just uncomment the "wade(hotend_mount=XXX);" line of your choice for your favored hotend mount like jhead for example.

I you only need the idler, uncomment all "wade(..);"-lines within "///RENDER...///" as well as the mentioned "bearing_washer();" few lines beneath and you will have the pure idler.

Otherwise you could also just wait a few more minutes until i've uploaded a seperate STL for the idler 8-)

Thanks soo much Jonas. I was able to comment out the washer but am not having much luck in commenting out the idler resulting in just the body. Would you help me out once more? Also, would you kindly post the idler scad file so I can compare before and after? Sorry to be such a nuisance.

There's no seperate SCAD file for the idler - it's all the same file. The idler is generated via module wadeidler() in the main wade SCAD file.

To compile and render the extruder body only, you need comment out the following lines: 128, 129, 142.
With that done, you can choose the needed hotend mount for the body by uncommenting one of lines 42-45 (it's the "//// RENDER EXTRUDER ///"-section)

Now the extruder body should be left, without
washer and idler.

For comparison of the idler code take a look at lines 562-669 where you can find the module "wadeidler()".

I had earlier made the changes you recommended above, but upon recompiling I kept getting a parsing error that I did not know how to handle. I thought I was editing incorrectly, so I asked for your help. The error was;

Parsing design (AST generation)...
Parser error in line 301: syntax error

ERROR: Compilation failed! (Parser error in line 150)

Could you send me your modified files via email? I will have a look at them tomorrow, should be easier than via comments in here..

You will receive a direct message via thingiverse containing my email adress in a second.

Note: The layer_thickness (not layer_height) parameter is on line 177. (OpenScad has no search feature.)

Thanks for the hint, modified the instructions!

The hot end from http://reprap-fab.orgreprap-fab.org sounds interesting. Unfortunately, my German is very poor (nonexistant). Is there any English language info available on it?

I have bought two of them. They work well.

I cannot read German, but I use google-chrome that translates the content on the fly for me.

Sadly I don't know of english information about the hotend. But I would recommend contacting Wolfgang a.k.a. Stoffel15 (the guy behind http://reprap-fab.orgreprap-fab.org) via email, I'm sure he will help you with any question. Made all good experiences with him.

Otherwise don't hesitate to contact me, I will try to help as good as possible.

My scad knowledge isn
’t good enough to see how parametric this really is. If I switch the m8 and m4 sizes in the metric.scad to be 5/16in and #6 screws would that effectively cobble together a SAE version? What size did you hard code in for the m4 nut (SAE#6 screws would need ~8mm)? My SAE prusa still uses m3 inste
ad of SAE#4 so I’m not concerned about those.

Well, I wasn't sure if I changed every value for screws and nuts in the entire code, so i uploaded the metric.scad in case any dependencies were left..

If you tell me your needed screw/nut sizes in detail, i will make modified version for you, just let me know. Like idler-screws, idler-screw-nuts, base mount nut traps (for mount on x carriage), idler-hinge, nema17 mount holes, hobbed bolt, hotend mount...

Well that would be super nice of you. I just had to do a rebuild of my hot end and noted how much wear there was on my extruder. All problems from my original kit were with the extruder to so I'm just going to replace it. That being said, I'm not that concerned about keeping everything the size it currently is over being able to source parts at the hardware store. I have a makergear hot end that goes with a 'standard wade' mounting plate. I did a bunch of mix and match with that and it all seemed to go together fine so I've been assuming it's standard.

Like most people I've talked to with SAE repraps we use some odd combination of parts. Usually the metric ones fit fine as the rod diameter is about the same and #4's fit through m3 holes. The only problems I've really had were the nut traps for the idler on my extruder and the nut trap in the l
arger wade gear. It seems like most of us use actual m3's for the nema mounts, substitute some #4's for the other m3s but keep some m3s, use #6's for the m4's and 5/16 for for the 8mm stuff.

Measured Sizes from SAE machine Screws

4 - dia 2.75, nut dia – 6.3, nut thickness – 2.33 (commonly ava

ilable up to 1-1/4 in)

6 – dia 3.35, nut dia – 7.75, nut thickness – 2.75 (up to 2in or 2.5in are common up to 4 or so aren't hard to find)

8 – dia 4.17, nut dia – 8.75, nut thickness – 6.35 (if it needs to be really long)

5/16 rod – dia 8mm, nut dia – 12.7, nut thickness – 6.9

all nuts are wrench measured (flat to flat)


Finally, I quickly modified extruder and big gear so they should work for your measured nut sizes. I changed the hobbed bolt hex head wrench size to fit your 12.7mm (big-gear-mod_SAE.stl) and changed M3/M4 nuts at the extruder body to your values for #4 and #6 (jonaskuehling_gregs-wade-v3_SAE_groovemount.stl). Affected nut traps are:

  • Extruder body on x carriage mounting holes (#6)

  • Idler screw nut slots (#6)

  • Ilder fulcrum nut trap (#4)

Please give a short feedback if this works well for you!

I printed the gears out last night. I
’ll get the rest done sometime over the next few days.
It looks great so far. The center hub of the big gear, which always looks worryingly close to stripping with gears for m8 nuts, fits perfectly with this.

Thanks a lot.

All of the adjusted screw and nut holes look great. Something weird happened in the slice that made the most ridiculous infill pattern I
’ve had yet. It took almost 7 hours to print the main piece. When I looked back at it the gcode was almost 40 mb. There is some slight misalignment with the hole pattern on the bottom and the one on my hot end insulator block. I think this is due to some warping in the print over my strangely
long print time. It’s something I can fix with an x-acto and a heat gun though.

Overall it came out good though. The only problems seem to be on my end so it’s all good here.

That's good news, thanks for your feedback!

I must apologize for the delay, didn't find the time yet - your request is not forgotten but may take a few more days since I'm quite buisy at the moment :-)

Nice job! :-D

I too was looking all over for the different mods, just to have this exact one

Thank you


Great timing. I was just pulling down the other files to print one of these, nice to have all these improvements in one place.

Also those are great photo's. They look like product placement photos for a magazine. How do you take those shots?

Thanks - actually I forgot to upload the extruder STLs, fixed that a second ago!

For good photos it's all about light - it can hardly be too dark for a nice shot :-) I use about 50W full spectrum daylight neon tube on top in combination with several 3W cold white LED spots..