Scaffolding in the fantasy cityscape is a classic in the video game medium, and now you can do it on tabletop for your chase scenes and city fights.
Also great for structures in caverns, wilderness, dungeons and warehouses. The parts in here could even be used to throw together a guard tower if you like.
This thing is really a ton of parts, so it will take a little modeling skill to put together the pieces you want to build. More then any thing I've released, I can't wait to see the makes for this one, as I think it has a real great range of creative possibilities.
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This model is composed of a bunch of little parts, so you can make a wide variety of scaffolding.
The very basic idea is to take 2 of the same sized scaffolding squares, 4 of the scaffolding cross beams, and some planks. Planks are designed to sit on the cross beams, so planks should be the same length as the scaffolding square used. The scaffolding cross beams should be printed with supports. They have a rectangular backing that properly spaces the squares apart. Glue the cross beams onto the squares, so that the rectangular portion faces inside. For the planks to properly fit, you need to glue the cross beams inside the outer poles on the right and left side of the square.
I prefer to paint the planks separately from the scaffolding. Then I wrap (see below) and finally glue the planks on.
You can add a variety of other features to the scaffolding to make it look better. The cross supports give you the X, and should be glued down on the 4 points where the corners meet on the squares.
You can also use the cross beams as guard rails. Glue them on the outside, with the rectangle facing in.
The various heights (1h, 2h, 3h) help you build more rigid structures of various heights.
After you have painted, but before you glue on the planks, you can make these look substantially better by taking some twine and wrapping all the joints. I used a waxed twine, because they tend to hold their shape better, so it makes it easier to attach and glue then using a purely thread based twine.
After gluing the beams, but before wrapping or gluing the planks, I spray paint all the parts with a black primer. I presently use Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch 2x Flat Black, which bonds really well with plastic. I've had great experiences with Krylon with Fusion Camouflage Flat Black which is fantastic, but about twice as expensive (However, it's so good, that I use it in place of the primers you can get from Citadel/Army Painter/etc, and I feel it gives a better result at half the price compared to those....)
From there, I paint using Americana paint:
- Burnt Umber - Covering nearly everything except the deepest crevices
- Chocolate - Side brushed to get all of the raised surfaces
- Honey Brown - Dry brushed to get the very tops of raised surfaces
- 2/7/2017 - Fixed 1x2 planks