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Ikea Lack Printer Enclosure

by LKM, published

Ikea Lack Printer Enclosure by LKM Oct 22, 2016
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Contents

Design Tools

OpenSCAD

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Summary

What you need:

  • At least two Ikea Lack tables
  • Reasonably strong magnets (I've used 6mm magnets on the parts that connect the tables, and 8mm magnets on the glass, but you can change the OpenSCAD files to adapt the printed parts to the size of magnets you want)
  • 500x500 mm plexiglass panels for each side. I used 1.6mm panels.
  • Optional: a fan, venting hose, and sealing strip

Assembly

  • When assembling the tables, make sure that the legs are attached really tightly to the tabletop. I screwed them all the way in, and then, when I thought they were properly attached, turned them another quarter or half turn, for a really tight fit. This will help stabilize the whole assembly
  • Print out all of the parts (four times lack_foot_top for the top table, four times lack_foot for every other table)
  • Glue the magnets into the indents on the printed parts (make sure they're all oriented the same way)
  • Stack the tables using the printed parts; everything should just slot together
  • Print four attachment brackets for every plexiglass pane
  • Mark where on the plexiglass the magnets go, and cut out a small indent where each magnet goes
  • Use the attachment brackets to glue the magnets to the plexiglass panes (note the magnet orientation)
  • Print cable guides. Cut square holes into all tables except for the top table (use the cable guide for size reference), and route the cables through the hole using the cable guide

Optional

  • Use sealing strip to seal the crack between plexiglass and tables
  • Print out the fan holder. Use the flat round part to draw a circle on all tables except for the top table, and cut it out
  • Attach the venting hose and fan to the fan holder, and slot them into the hole in the bottom table

Parts Sourcing

Note: I haven't verified any of these sources. These are from the comments section, and I'm collecting them here for your convenience.

Panels

Magnets

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Just wondering what I need to edit in the SCAD file to increase the height of the foot?
Thanks!

This Ebay link is for the exact size sheet of acrylic (1.6x500x500) for this project.
At $7.68 a sheet + shipping.
I think that's a pretty good deal. :)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Acrylic-Sheet-1-60mm-x-500mm-x-500mm-1-16-x-19-68-x-19-68-For-3Dprinter/273021486931?hash=item3f91594753:g:gbAAAOSwbFhZb7Z0

Yikes, $60 shipping for 8 pieces.

Ill try and source them locally.

It was only 19.80 for shipping. I try to source them near me and it was going to cost a lot more than the 50$ total I spent with them on eBay.

That’s awesome I bought these two days ago from this guy and told him to make a permanent listing so I could post it on this site. He just made the listing yesterday and it already found it’s way here. That’s awesome you guys found it with in hours of it being posted. Mine should be here Monday and I will let you guys know how well they fit.

Hi ive got to the part of adding the magnets.
Firstly I took one stack ( the 6mm ones ) and used a red ( the colour really doesnt matter) permanent marker to the upper face of the magnet at the top of the stack, take this marked magnet off and put it at the bottom of the stack. Keep on doing this, untill all are done.

Then get the 8mm ones (stacked) and make they are oriented so they attract to the 6mm ones when stacked. Now do the same, mark the top magnet ( i did mine in black, doesnt matter the colour) and move the marked magnets to the bottom untill all are marked.

Next I found that the 6mm holes are very tight and cannot be pushed in by using fingers and dont need glue. So I got 2 6mm magnets, stacked them and then with marked face up placed it near the corner of a putty knife so i was able to align the magnet with the hole, firstly pushing the flat of putty knife then gently tapping the back of the putty knife with a hammer utill magnet is flush, removing the putty knife with one of the magnets leaving the other flush in the hole.
Do this for all the 6mm holes and magnets making sure that the top magnet is marked side up on the putty knife. Then when you have finished all magents in the holes the tops will show unmarked..

Hope this helps

CLICK PRINT - WAIT A WEEK:
I'm currently printing 4 of the LACK foot in PLA at a speed of 60mm/s with 0.1 mm layer height with 25% fill density, and support material for
areas touching the baseplate. It has taken over 4 days of continuous printing to get to 65%. I wanted to put this out there as a warning that printing these parts should be considered a marathon print. Great model, but had I known this I might've ordered them printed to save time and money (it's highly likely that running a printer for 5 days likely costs more in electric, filament, and wear and tear on the printer than ordering 4 of them printed.)

You do not need to print these at .1 layer height. Go with the highest layer height you can, .25 or .3. Also, the infill does not need to be 25%, something like 10-20% should be good enough. Printing one of the pieces shouldn't take more than a few hours.

Take a look at your slicer's print time predictions before printing the parts, and change your settings if the print time is too long.

How large can the Printer be to fit inside the Enclosure ?

The space inside the enclose is 55×55×47cm, but then you have a 5×5 leg in each corner.

How do you get filament to the bottom printer?

I have two direct drive extrusion printers, and I'd prefer to keep the spools outside the enclosure for easy swapping, so if anyone has any tips, let me know.

Thanks

Is it possible just to use one entire Lack table and then just the top of the second one? I really don't want a double-decker. I just need something I can place on a table.

Yes, that should work.

Is there like a ¼" gap all around between the plexiglass and the wooden frame? It looks like it's not air tight?

It's not airtight. That's what the sealing strip is for.

Better yet, anyone able to assist me in getting a set of pieces for 3mm panels please?

Which parts are affected if I want to use 3mm panels instead of 1.6?

ThankS!

So, I managed to source reasonably-priced magnets and plexi panels in the US from eBay, surprisingly:

Magnets

  1. 50pcs. 6x1.5mm N35 - $7.59
  2. 50pcs. 8x3.0mm N35 - $7.59

Plexiglass Panels:

For the panels, I contacted this seller with my custom dimensions (500x500x1.60mm), for a panel cost of $6.80/ea (plus shipping, of course).

Best of all, all of the above parts fits "as-is" in the .STLs provided and required no modifications.

I have tried to load the fan holder. The fan holder and circle is to big for the bed and I cannot separate them. In cura there is the option to ungroup items but that is greyed out. What can I do?
Update: I have found that legacy Cura ie 14.07 can split objects into parts but the latest doesnt.

You can also split objects in Meshmixer, which is free.

The legs of the Lack table are 40 cm in height. How many centimeters are added to leg height with these couplings/brackets?

They add about 7cm, but you can change that by modifying the OpenSCAD files.

Hi, Ive made one of these. Thank you for for sharing. I ve just purchased my panels and they are 2mm thick as i cannot find 1.6mm in UK ( that was a reasonable price) . Ive noticed comments from others regarding 2mm thich panels. Could you possibly add attachment brackets suitable for 2mm thick panel, please?

**No need. Didnt realise how easy it would be to modify the scad file**
.
Im really please to show my freinds and family this enclosure. Youve done a great job. Thank you.

Ive now got to decide how to attach my extraction system. The printer is in my lounge and I will not print ABS till ive got the sides on the enclosure.

Once again THANK YOU.!!!

Feel free to publish your modified files as a remix!

I'm worried that having the printer completely enclosed while printing large ABS parts may be hard on the electronics, especially if the power supply was upgraded to a 12V 30A supply, as well as a raspberry pi in the enclosure. Has anyone had any issues with this, or should I work to create some ventilation for the electronics?

The insides of your box are probably not going to be hot enough for electronics overheating to become a problem just from printing. If you intend to heat the enclosure, or are printing in a place that's already hot, you might want to consider moving the electronics outside the box; moving the Pi in particular shouldn't be an issue, since it only needs a USB connection to the printer.

No. If you put in a fan, you can create lower pressure inside the enclosure, though.

Comments deleted.

Thickness of magnet you used? Thank you....

I was wondering this also. Someone further down said they used 2mm thick magnets and it worked. But there are also references to 6x1.6mm and 8x2.9mm (which I'm guessing would actually be 1.5mm and 3mm). It would be nice if this info was included on the "Thing Detail" page.

6x1.5mm here:
https://www.guysmagnets.com/neodymium-magnets-c11/6-mm-x-1-5-mm-neodymium-disk-p64

8x3mm here:
https://www.guysmagnets.com/neodymium-magnets-c11/8-mm-x-3-mm-neodymium-disk-p74

Thank you for those links thethirdstrike! Those are the magnets i ordered and now I'm wondering what kind of glue people are using?

How did you change that?

Make an account for tinkercad : Very easy program to use :-)

https://www.tinkercad.com

Open the stl file. Take a hollow cilinder and set dimensions to size you want. Move it in place to the magnet hole on the shape.

Group the 2 shapes and all done. Export the stl and its ready to print.

Tinkercad is really easy to change little things in people designs.

I created a remix of the feet that is quite a bit shorter. I have a Prusa i3 Mk2, and it still fits quite well, with the smaller foot, and the print time is reduced to ~4.5 hours, at 150% speed, 0.2mm layer heights, and 10% infill. Plenty strong, to boot.

Would anyone like me to upload it?

Yeah, please upload your remix!

Ikea Lack Printer Enclosure - Short Feet

Any tips on where to find 1.6x500x500 plexiglass (or something else that works) in the US? I've looked around quite a bit and can't find the right dimensions for less than $30/sheet. I could buy slightly larger and get it cut down, but then I'm paying for extra material and the price is >$100 for 8 sheets...

Edit: Nevermind, I found this local place which gets me under the $100 price point https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/acrylic_sheets_clear/508

I'm trying to build this enclosure, I only got 2mm Plexiglass plates, not 1.6mm. But hey, they're pre-cut 50x50cm! Do you think, the weight will be alright or will they be too heavy for the magnets? (Versuch macht klug).

Speaking of the magnets, I only can find 6mmx2mm and 8mmx3mm, unless you give me a hint, where, here in Germany, I can find the 6x1.6mm and 8x2.9mm. Will the 2mm/3mm height magnets work? Would I have to modify the Openscad files for that?

There is an Austrian vendor called supermagnete. In the neodym section you should find, what you need.
They are shipping to Germany.

heres the link:
https://www.supermagnete.at/

Comments deleted.

Do you think, the weight will be alright or will they be too heavy for the magnets?

Probably. The panels rest on little nubs that stick out of the connector pieces, they're not just held in place by magnets, so I think you should be fine.

Will the 2mm/3mm height magnets work?

I'm sure they can be made to work, but probably not with the provided STLs.

Thank you, I will try and provide Feedback. :)

Really want to give this a print but for 8 bottom foot brackets its a KG worth of filament D:

Has anyone else had trouble printing the attachment brackets? I have a Wanhao Duplicator i3 plus and it is struggling to print something so small at a decent quality. I've tried both ABS and PLA and I've tried lying the brackets down as well as standing them up. The ABS prints ended up very brittle and falling apart. The PLA print ended up very messy. Does anyone have any suggestions? These are the smallest prints I've tried since getting my printer and I'm not sure how to get it to a decent quality.

I printed them on their side to minimize the supports needed and had no problems. Printed at .2 mm layers in PLA.

Thank you for the suggestion. I had to play around with the settings until I finally ended up with something that printed clean with easy to remove supports.
For anyone else having trouble printing the brackets, I ended up printing them at .1 mm with PLA, reduced support density to 10%, changed support pattern to lines, and reduced printing speed to 30 mm/s. I don't know why I had such a problem but I finally have them printed :)

Hi

I have a similar design at the works and with the printer dampening stuff i got it down from 75db to 20-30 db range.

However i miss sealing strip. What kind did you use ? How big is the diameter ? Is it sealing strip for a purpose like kitchen or something ?

Can i pick this up at the local hardware store ?

Thanks!

Normal window sealing strip. You can get it in different sizes at a hardware store.

maybe im missing something, but did you screw those? or is it holding just as a snap on?
if with screws, where are the screws? under the magnets?

Gravity holds everything in place. I guess you could screw them in under the magnets, but I didn't find it necessary.

Nice but holy crap this uses a ton of filament.

In the process of printing foot #3. At 9 hours a foot...

Ok made a hollow version that uses less. 54m of filament vs 100-140+

Still takes a long time to print, On my 4th foot. Remix posted tomorrow

This looks pretty great.
You''ve got a fan sucking air out combined with sealing strips. How do you get air in, to prevent underpresure in the chamber?
Do you have an intake somewhere? Is it not necessary?

The seal is not tight enough for underpressure to be any issue in my case. So no intake.

Cool, thanks for the reply :)

Can anyone tell me the model number of the table? I don't want to get the wrong one.

Article number for the Table is: 200.114.13 (LACK side table 55cmx55cm)

Great design! I just picked up the tables, but I was wondering if you could explain the difference in use between the regular and wide brackets? Also, when you say cut an indentation in the plexiglass, is this still necessary if you use the brackets? Thanks.

The "wide" brackets are intended for additional magnets alongside the edges of the plexiglass. For the magnets near the corners, it's better to use the normal brackets.

For the normal brackets, yes, you need to cut an indentation. For the wide brackets, the magnets are outside of the plexiglass, so no indentation is needed.

Thanks! I just finished assembling the tables and am about to start printing the parts!

Don't use for Tronxy X3, the leg extensions are not long enough.

You can change the length of the extensions in the OpenSCAD file.

did you print these with supports or on its side? the overhangs are giving me trouble.

With supports.

what size (depth) sealing strip is that?

About 6.5mm.

Thanks for the great design. I modified the foot so that the rectangular bump has a slot in it that the plastic can slide into a rest on (the slot faces up). I think I'll only need two magnets per sheet as a result since I won't need magnets on the bottom part.

Is there any alternative to putting a bunch of supports under the brackets? It seems to me that no matter how you position it, supports will be needed in the hollow cavity of in the open sided end.

Thanks again.

The little magnet brackets can be printed without supports if you stand them up sideways. You need good bed adhesion and filament cooling though.

Post your modified foot as a remix, I think that's a smart idea!

When I said brackets, I meant feet. Sorry. I currently use Craftware and its supports don't work all that well (too many, lots of print time, and difficult to remove) Can anyone suggest a free slicer that generates easy to remove supports?

You could probably redesign the bumps so they don't need support. I used Slic3r, the supports came off easily.

What's the verdict on how long this takes to print and recommended settings?

Comments deleted.

everything nice and printed. i just clued in that i need 32 total magnets per table

Looks really cool, about halfway done constructing this thing! I like its completely modular and there are no screws needed! Good job!

In terms of reducing noise and vibrations, has anyone tried putting a paving stone under the printer in this enclosure? I checked the max weight for the Ikea Lack table and I believe it should allow for a slab under the printer to lower vibrations.

Have a paving stone in now and under that a EVA foam mat. Removed a LOT of noise! Its down to a felt 20 %. Don't hear it in the next room anymore with the door closed.

Have you tried it? Still printing but I will put a slab in there.

I get air temperatures up to 50° C in the enclosure, printing ABS. Do you guys think this is a problem for the electronics (Ramps 1.4 + 2 fans) and powersupply (no fan) ?

Did this enclosure improve your printing quality?

holy crap YES. it has helped out a ton with warping.

No. I guess it might have a tiny positive effect if you're printing ABS, but I rarely do that.

Is it possible to add a hinge for the front panel instead of taking it off like that everytime?

Still thinking about which enclosre design to go for on thingyverse and yours just seem the most appealing, but the lack of a hinge is kinda scaring me off.

And images of the building process (or a video) where everything goes would have been helpful, including your positioning of the fan.

Is it possible to add a hinge for the front panel instead of taking it off like that everytime?

In theory, yes, but it's not designed to work that way, so if you want a hinge, it's probably better to go with somebody else's design.

Im interested in doing this for two printers, but am concerned about how much this is going to shake! How rigid is the enclosure when built and will the screws work their way out due to vibration?

I also want to use opaque side panels and add sound insulting foam. Is this possible or is there not enough space?

I haven't had any problems with vibration. I just made sure that the table legs were screwed in very tightly.

I don't know how much space you'd need for adding foam. I guess it should be possible.

I notice you talk about a ventilation system, Whats it for and how important is it? Im printing PLA only.

It's for moving plastic fumes from your room to the outside. As for how important it is, ask again in 20 years when we have long-term studies of the health effects of 3D printing at home :-)

I am very interested in how you mounted the ventilation system, can you explain how did you mounted the ventilation hose and fans?, I am worried about the fumes and nano particles, and I want to reduce them (and also not printing ABS), thanks!

Basically:

  • Drill or saw a hole in the table that fits the fan holder
  • Put the fan holder into the hole
  • Pull the ventilation hose through the hole
  • Put a fan on top of it so it holds the hose in place

You'll probably have to adapt the fan holder to fit your fan, and make sure that you get a hose that matches the fan size.

thanks, I though you placed a HEPA or any filter, thanks!

If you vent the air outside, you don't need filters :-)

Where were you able to find the acrylic glass we need? I am having the hardest time looking online, and locally.Thanks!

Ignore the above question. I see your answer below.

Hey so I'm in the midst of printing all the parts, but how do you attach the top portions? Is all you can do snap them in once they are assembled? I'm worried that I'm going to break the print doing so

Yes, snap them in. I used PLA, and they didn't break, but you might have to adjust your print settings to make the part flexible enough.

Thank you for sharing that! I've been trying to find somewhere to get magnets to get my enclosure built!

If you order these magnets, can you let me know how well they fit?

They've just arrived and to be honest on my test leg they look good to me. http://i66.tinypic.com/2ihsbyr.jpg

On the leg, you should put the smaller magnet into the smaller hole inside the larger hole. The larger hole is for the bracket, so the glass lines up with the printed part.

Ah, I see, there's only one size... I guess this would work, too...

I guess that makes sense, What size is the smaller hole?

6mm diameter.

thanks, I've just ordered some now.. Got my first foot printing (In the colour i want anyway!) :)

I've had to make bigger attachment clips because the acrylic i've got is 4mm, it wasn't intended for this project but I'm going to try it and see if it works.. It may be too heavy for the magnets but I guess i'll see when it's all together! haha

I've also seen how your magnets sit inside the clip but these don't, they do however sit on the very top section so I'm going to try it and see how it works.

I've ordered some, I'll let you know

Hello, excellent design! What fan did you use for the extraction (I want a good fitment).

I used a cheap USB fan and just unscrewed the metal stand. Sorry, can't give you a part number or anything like that, I bought it as a local store, but if you just search "usb fan" on Amazon, you'll find plenty of fans that seem to be about the right size.

Argh, okay... I'm sure they don't have the static pressure rating to actually service this purpose, I'll look around for a solution.

I guess that depends. In my case, the panels close tightly enough that even a cheap USB fan creates enough negative pressure that I can't smell the printers anymore, even when they're printing smelly stuff like ABS. That's entirely subjective, of course, and I'm sure it's not a perfect solution, but if smell is what concerns you, then it seems to work well enough.

Did you drill the glass at all in any of the steps? Also, what are the dimensions of each of the glass sheets?

I used a dremel to cut indents into the panels for the magnet brackets. The plexiglass panels are 500x500x1.6mm.

Check out the Thing Details tab for all of the information :-)

Hi LMK, what specific magnet did you buy and from where. I do not want to change the scad file

I bought Mauro magnets from Coop Bau & Hobby in Switzerland. I'm pretty sure that won't help you much, though. If you read the comments, other have found magnets online that fit the STLs.

Am I blind or isn't the magnet size listed in the description? And people name different sizes here ... could you just update the description for unchanged prints? It's a bit hard to understand if the magnets should fit in thr small holes or the bigger holes over the small holes ... you say 6mm but my smaller holes are a lot smaller than 6 I think.

I've used 6mm magnets on the parts that connect the tables, and 8mm magnets on the glass. 6mm magnets should fit into the small holes.

I have to ask again, how THICK are the magnets please? You only told the diameter.

How thick are the magnets?

Can you show a up close photo of the attachment clips and acrylic sheet?

I've uploaded a picture showing the bracket attached to the glass panel.

That's really nice. Great Job!

its 480x480 mm plexiglass panels tom small?

You might be able to make it work, if you print custom magnet holders that extend outside of the plexiglass panel.

what printer settings did you used? did you also used support?

Thanks LKM, I printed witout support and with 15% infill and they came out very Nice. What thickness did you use for the plexiglas?

I used 1.6mm plexiglass.

Comments deleted.

Yes, I used support for the protruding nubs. As for the other printer settings, I used a relatively large layer height, and enough shells and infill to make the whole thing pretty sturdy. I don't remember the exact settings, but you probably know best what settings your printer requires to produce a solid print.

did you buy frosted glass or did you just hit it with some spray paint that makes it look frosted. Also can you link good magnets.

I'm currently making this thing (thanks for the really awesome design!), and I ended up buying various magnets on AliExpress.
I have 5x2mm magnets in the feet/spacers, and 8x2mm in the glass brackets. This seems to hold fairly tight. I did try with some 8x1mm for the glass, and while it stays on, it only takes a slight breeze to knock them down.
I have 1.6mm acrylic, and tried with 8x3mm magnets as well, which makes it really hard to fit.

I'm currently printing the last few parts (from another design), and will post a make once I'm done :-)

Edit: I ended up with these for 1.6mm acrylic
50pcs 8x2mm magnet 8x2 N35 super strong rare earth magnet D8x2mm, 82 small fridge magnets D82mm, 8mmx2mm magnet
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/32694237769/32694237769.html

And these for the feet
50Pcs 5mmx2mm Super Strong Round Disc Magnets Rare Earth Neodymium Magnet N50 Free Shipping
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/32737788048/32737788048.html

Thank you for posting this! Did these magnets fit into the default inserts, or did you have to change the size?

The 5x2mm fit just fine. I adjusted the braces to fit the 8x2mm, though i've glued them onto the brace and acrylic. I didn't bother cutting into the acrylic. This means the magnet sticks out about 1mm from the brace, but it's not visible, and holds really well.

It's frosted glass.

Sorry, not sure about the magnets, just picked some up at my local hardware store.

K&J Magnetics has some very strong 5/16" x 1/16" disc magnets that should fit the holders nicely and they are strong! I haven't printed the holders yet so I don't know for sure if any adjustments are needed, but the magnets arrived today and, if I haven't mentioned it - they are strong!

I ended up ordering these from K&J Magnetics. For everyone else that sees this the diameter of the magnets were a little big for my PLA prints of the actual risers. Will be adjusting the scad file to fit them and will likely have to sand down the extra mm's

edit: nvm, I believe my stepper calibrations must be off because the magnets have a diameter of 8mm

I really like this idea, very creative and attractive. I've decided to build this, but goofed up on ordering plexiglass. I only paid attention to the published size of the table and ordered two pieces of 24"x36", thinking that 18" would cover the vertical. I hadn't realized that you added thickness to the foot to open up the space. I have a Prusa I3 Mk2, if I shrink the foot about 24mm, it seems as if I would have enough clearance for this printer. What do you think?

Again, great job!
Tom

Thanks!

Yes, you can take up to ~3 inches off the height, and the MK2 should still fit (without the spool holder).

which value is to manipulate if i dont need the height of the foots? I only want 2-3 mm between the tables - what have i to edit on the scad?

There's no simple variable to achieve this. In the middle of the file, there are two sections that each begin with:

translate([0,0,...]) minkowski() {

There, you can edit the third parameter in the translate([0,0,...]) section to change how much padding between the two tables exists in the model.

thank you - i'll give it a try

Comments deleted.

Do you know what model LACK this is? There are multiple size options on their website.

It's 550mm×550mm. I can only see one size on the Ikea website, 21 5/8×21 5/8", which sounds like it's the correct size.

It looks great, and I've ordered some tables from IKEA.

I'm a bit worried about the stability of the whole thing when both printers are running. I plan on housing a Wanhao i3 Plus and a Prusa i3 Mk2.

How much "wobble" is there if both are printing ?

If you screw the legs in tightly, there's some vibration from the running printers, but no real wobble.

Thanks for the design been looking for a enclosure for a while and the tables at ikea are cheap no problem making them very easy

What infill are people printing these at???

Cheers

I think I printed mine at around 25% infill, with four or five walls.

What resolution did you print them at ?
Currently printing mine at 0.2mm/60mm/sec, and it roughly takes 12 hours for one of them :) Takes a while to get to 8 :D

I printed them at 0.3mm layer height. IIRC, it took me about seven hours a piece.

Thanks for the design. Mine turned out very well!

Could you go into a little more detail or maybe post a picture about how the magnet holders attach to the plexiglass? In the details you said cut an indent. So in this case, did you just cut an indent that was 12mm x 12mm (approximate size of printed magnet holder) and slide them in? They're not glued in place or anything?

Cut an indent that's the size of the magnet, not the whole magnet holder. I think if you just push the magnet into the holder before making any holes into the plexiglass, you'll see how it fits together. Alternatively, push the magnet holder onto the plexiglass without the magnet inside; that should also help you figure out where and how big the hole should be to accommodate the magnet.

In the end, magnet, holder, and plexiglass are glued together.

I might upload some pictures of this eventually, but probably not before Christmas :-)

Ah, I think I see what you're saying. The magnet holder has a 5/16" hole for the magnet. So after I stack the tables and the printed pieces are in place. I could place the clear acrylic over the rectangular hole and trace where the magnet is from the other side? Then I could use that circle trace as a reference and aim as close to the middle as I can approximate and drill the 5/16" hole through the acrylic for the magnet? Or am I making it too complicated?

When you say "cut an indent" that makes me think you just cut a rectangular notch where each magnet goes so maybe I am over thinking it? The acrylic is expensive ($15 for a 24" x 24" sheet here in the US) so I just want to make sure I get it right on the first try.

No, I think you're describing it perfectly. If you can drill the hole right through, I think that's the best way to do it. That didn't work for me (the hole was too close to the edge of the glass), so what I ended up doing was to start from the side with a dremel, and cut out a rounded notch that was large enough to fit the magnet.

I also find it curious that you didn't put any retention pieces on lack_foot like you did lack_top that kinda help it "snap" in place. lack_foot is mostly just supposed to be held in place by weight or?

Yes, the feet are held in place by the weight of the table above. In hindsight, the retention pieces might have been useful to have on the feet as well, but it makes printing the pieces harder, so it's a bit of a trade-off. If you want them in there, you can probably just copy them over from the top piece's OpenSCAD file.

Did you apply any glue or similar ?
It looks like it would topple if a child or a dog ran into it, especially considering that the only thing holding it "together" is gravity. The Lack table isn't exactly heavy weight :)

I'm about halfway printing mine (12 hour print times for the retention pieces/spacers yay...)

No glue. I don't have any children or pets to experiment with right now, but I think you'd have to have pretty big kids for them to topple the thing. It's quite stable.

A 7 year old, a 2 year old, and a 42 Kg German shepherd. :-)
I'll try to get a couple of wood screws through the parts touching the legs. They're not going to hold weight as such, just preventing the thing from sliding sideways.

How thick should the acrylic/plexi be? Should it be able to slide into the magnet holder without the magnet? I think mine might be too thick, I purchased the thinnest stuff they had and it was .093".

The plexiglass I used is 1.6mm (0.06"). So what you need to do is change the OpenSCAD file for the magnet holder to fit your glass. Let me know if you need any help with that.

I was only able to find 0.1" thick plexi. I downloaded openscad and played around with the file to adjust for the different thickness but wasn't able to figure out. Could you please assist?

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I think I am going to have to end up doing this. I haven't been able to locate 1/16" plexiglass around me anywhere. I may have found some .093" but might have to even go a little above that. I have zero modeling experience and just got my printer last week. I could probably figure it out but if you have any beginner pro-tips to adjusting the magnet holder to accomodate a larger piece of plexi it would be appreciated :).

If you re-download the attachment bracket OpenSCAD file and take a look at the top of the file, there are now two variables:

magnet_diameter = 8;
glass_thickness = 1.7;

Change the glass_thickness variable to the thickness of your plexi in mm. You can also change the magnet_diameter to fit the magnets you have perfectly.

Hi,

i downloaded the scad files and wanted to adapt the magnet diameters when i realized the little cubes which support the glass aren't in the scad files. Are they up to date?

Indeed, you are right. I have no idea how that happened, but I've uploaded the correct file now, hopefully. Thanks for pointing this out, and sorry!

I saw you're other comment on how big the magnets are, but how thick are they? I am guessing 2mm.

The small ones are 1.6mm, the large ones 2.9mm.

Thank you

In the search for a place for the printer I have seen some Ikea tables hacks, but I like them best.
The design is simple and beautiful, great.
With the others I noticed that the power supply was always placed outside, also FoinB did that.
This is not visible in your photos. Is it mandatory necessary to put the power supply on the outside?

Thank you!

You don't have to put the power supply on the outside. However, I think there are a few things to consider.

Some printers don't have external, detachable power supplies, so there, you don't have a choice; it's inside the enclosure by default.

Lots of people with printers with external power supplies like to hide them, so sticking them to the bottom of the table, or somewhere else outside of the enclosure, can make the whole thing a bit more tidy.

One other aspect: having a 3D printer in an enclosed space will increase the temperature in that space. This tends to be a good thing, since it makes prints less likely to warp, but on the other hand, electronics tend to prefer lower temperatures. Now, it's unlikely for this to be a problem with the kind of enclosure I've built, since the temperature in there is not likely to be that much higher than room temperature. But if you are concerned about it, then moving some of the electronics to the outside of the enclosure might be something to consider.

In short, unless you're really concerned about temperature, just put the power supply where you think it looks best.

Thank you for the reference with the temperature I will have to keep in mind when using the heating bed.
Unfortunately, it still takes some time until the printer is delivered, Prusa is probably drowning in Orders.

How effective is the noise reduction in the box? I have no extra room.
And ABS should also smell quite badly and that I would not have in the whole room.

The MK2 is a relatively loud printer to begin with. The enclosure reduces the noise noticeably, but it's still nowhere close to silent.

Unless you add a fan and venting hose, and actually vent the air in the enclosure to the outside, it won't du much to reduce smell. In fact, I would probably avoid printing ABS anywhere close to where you're living or working.

Great design! Looks very clean!

How did you attach the venting hose? Did you add a fan to it? If so, how do you control and power it?

in which oriention did you printed the lack_foot and did you use Support material`?

I printed it upside-down, standing on the side into which you push the table leg. I used some hairspray to get it to stick reliably, since there's not a lot of surface area.

I did turn on automatic support material in Slic3r, and it put a bit of material under the section that protrudes and holds the plexiglass in place.

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How much does this sway back and forth during printing? I am waiting to finish printing the connecting leg risers but without them it seams like it isn't very stable so far.

Is there anything you are doing to stiffen it up?

I haven't had any issues with swaying. There's some vibration, but that's unavoidable. I think the trick is to turn the legs all the way into the table, and then, when you think they're all the way in, turn them another quarter or half turn, so that they are really tightly attached to the tabletop.

can you add the links from the Shops where you bought the Magnets and the glass ? :)

Sorry, bought them in a hardware store, not online. Most hardware stores should be able to cut plexiglass for your. For the magnets, you have to get reasonably strong ones, so the cheapest ones won't work.

Congratulation,
Your design is clean and well done. Thanks for sharing !

Thank you!

Hey, Nice Project!

How thick is the glass? How big are the magnets?

Thanks!

The plexiglass is 1.6mm, but you could use any thickness, you'll just have to adapt the attachment bracket OpenSCAD file. I've used two magnet sizes. I've used 6mm magnets on the parts that connect the tables, and 8mm magnets on the glass. But again, this is something that you can change quite easily in the OpenSCAD files. I mainly used two different sizes because my local hardware store ran out of 6mm magnets :-)

This looks really cool, so you have any more pictures?

Thank you!

I've added two more detail shots. What else would you like to see?

I think you've covered it well for now. Thanks again!

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