I have received written permission from The Residents to upload this as an entry to the 2016 Thingiverse Halloween Challenge
I've long been a fan of The Residents. And like every fan I've always wanted to have an eyeball helmet of my very own. The ultimate Halloween costume. Just add a tailcoat tuxedo and go!
This is an involved project. Though it's far from impossible. Some of my parts differ slightly than the current STLs. The STLs present are refined versions, and I what I would use if I were to make another.
There’s also files for a complete top hat, as well as an eyeball if you would like to make a scale model as shown in the pics above.
Non 3D-Printed Parts List:
12" Acrylic Lamp Globe
Hard Hat Harness
Transparent filament in your choice of eye color
Spray paint: Black and in same color as transparent filament
Screws (I used what I had on hand, only three are necessary)
3D Print smoothing compound (epoxy/bondo/etc)
Black See-Through Fabric
2" Black Ribbon
Black Walking Stick
White Costume Gloves
Print the hat with as low of an infill and as thin of walls as possible. The lighter the hat is, the better for your neck and back, as well as assembly.
The iris was done using ~3% infill. The more transparent the iris is the better, I used transparent green Hatchbox filament. The pupil for the cane topper was done in black ABS, but only because it was the only black filament I had on hand. The rest of the parts were made using 25% infill and 4 shells with white PLA from Fargo3D Printing.
When painting the iris, cut out a circle of paper slightly larger than the pupil hole and place it over the iris, paint the outer perimeter while remaining perpendicular to the paper. When the perimeter is darkened to your liking, remove the paper and spray indirectly to blend. I used my own eye as a template, so I ran some black sharpie on the reverse side edge, so it just barely shows. I also drew some radial lines on the back to emulate a true eye, this is why it is important to use a transparent filament.
To assemble the hat, print four brim pieces and two top pieces and 10 hat biscuits. Superglue the pieces together. If you have a "3D Printing pen," this is a good time to use it on the back to reinforce the joints. Coat in smoother, sand, repeat. Paint, sand, repeat. Once dry and appears to one's liking, apply the ribbon with permanent double sided cellophane tape. Overlapping as little as possible. The joint between the top and bottom sections is intentionally placed so that the ribbon covers it.
Mask off the sections to be cut out on the globe with masking tape, and draw the desired hole in sharpie. The hole sizes for the hat and pupil are inconsequential as long as they are not bigger than hat and iris. Expanding the head hole will depend on your own head. The holes in the globe were cut using a rotary tool and a cutoff wheel. Take it slow, it will melt, wear a respirator, the fumes are harsh. The globe is also brittle and not consistent in thickness, so be careful. I dropped my first one and it broke. Always store it in the box it came in when not handling it.
To install the pupil, heat up a nail with a torch, and poke about 20 holes around the perimeter of the pupil, about a quarter inch away. Do not drill these holes. The globe will crack. Lay 2-4 layers of ironed out black fabric over the hole, and sew through the fabric into the holes. As you begin to approach the opposite side from where you started, pull the fabric tight, and continue sewing, ensuring the fabric is as flat as possible over the hole. Trim the excess
Hot glue the iris over the pupil. The eye section is done.
Deciding where to mount the harness mounts will depend on your own head. I suggest screwing the back harness mounts to the harness, inserting the harness, followed by your head, and play around where you think it's best. Mark the locations with masking tape. Remove the harness, and hot glue the blocks in place. Once cooled, reinstall the harness.
The front harness mount gets hot glued about where the forehead meets a widow's peak. The forehead stop is screwed into this block and is used to rest the harness on. It's not permanently attached to the harness as the harness needs to rotate as the head is inserted.
The hat mounts need to be manipulated slightly depending on where the hole for the hat was cut. Use a lighter to soften the plastic and squeeze them shut to pinch on the globe rim. The number of mounts is up to you. I used 4 short ones and 2 long ones. Ensure the hat has a nice fit over these mounts.
Hot glue over the mounts, and slide the hat over as quickly and cleanly as possible. This is the most difficult part of this project to do well. If you succeed, give yourself a pat on the back, because you're done.
The cane topper assembly just snaps together. Some sanding may be required.