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Monoprice Select Mini E3Dv6 Zero Offset Mount

by USWaterRockets, published

Monoprice Select Mini E3Dv6 Zero Offset Mount by USWaterRockets Oct 26, 2016

Design Tools

Alibre 2011

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Summary

This collection of things combines to form a E3Dv6 Hotend mount for the Monoprice Select Mini (Malyan M200) 3D Printer.

These parts were created as part of our ongoing project to maximize the performance of the Monoprice Select Mini Printer. You can read about our other mods on our Hackaday.io page located here: https://hackaday.io/project/14823-monoprice-select-mini-maximum-3d-printer-mods

The differences between this mounting adapter and others you may have seen are:

1) The nozzle XY position is almost exactly the same as the stock nozzle, so you don't lose any of the useful print area of the hated bed.
2) The nozzle Z height is almost exactly the same (depending on how you adjust the heat break) as the stock nozzle, so you don't lose adjustment range of the bed leveling screws.
3) The mounting bracket has an integrated belt tensioner feature, which eliminates the stock spring clips.
4) The hot end cooling fan airflow is dedicated to cooling the hot end only, and is isolated from the printed part. This reduces warping and layer separation of ABS and exotic filaments like Polycarbonate.
5) A removable (with no tools) clip on part cooling fan can be installed for PLA and other filaments which require rapid cooling for overhangs and bridges.
6) Dual LED lights are integrated into the part cooling fan, to illuminate the printed part.

Print Settings

Printer:

Monoprice Select Mini

Rafts:

No

Supports:

Doesn't Matter

Resolution:

0.1mm Layers

Infill:

1mm walls, 30% infill.


Notes:

Note: I printed this in ABS and in PETG and ultimately printed in Carbon Fiber filled ABS because it closely resembled the glass filled nylon parts of the stock printer. PLA will probably not work for this application because it will be close to hot parts.

All parts are designed to be printed as oriented in the STL files with no support needed. In some cases, you can enable support if the overhangs are too steep for your printer to print to your satisfaction. It's up to you.

Post-Printing

Insall two M3 nuts in the bracket.

Inserting the clamping nuts

You will need to insert M3 nuts into the hexagonal channels in the rear of the bracket. They should snap into the bottom of the channels when the screws are tightened and should not fall out.

Remove the factory hot-end and bracket.

Preparing the printer

To install the adapter, you will need to remove the factory hot-end. To do this you must remove the metal shroud that covers the gantry. Screws on each end hold this in place, Next, you should remove the clips holding the fan to the hot end and then remove the two screws holding the heatsink to the carriage. Save the screws and nuts as they are used on the new bracket.

The belt tensioning feature

Using the belt tensioning feature

Before inserting the bracket in the carriage, you must connect the belt to the belt tension feature on the back of the bracket. To do this, you need to loosen the belt by removing the screw from the end of the gantry that holds the pulley in the end. You should also remove any belt tensioners on the belt. Then you can loop the belt over the bracket and slide the bracket into the carriage.

Reassemble the gantry

Reassembling the printer.

You can now reassemble the printer in the reverse order in which you took it apart. Put the pulley back into the end of the gantry and screw it back into place. Do not over tighten the screw, it strips easily. Note: there is no guide to align the pulley so you need to make sure that it is parallel to the other pulley and rotate it until it is aligned. Fasten the bracket to the carriage using the screws and nuts from the stock hot end. You can also put the metal shroud back over the gantry, or leave it off if you like (it can make the printer noisy because it rattles).

Installinmg the E3Dv6

Install the E3Dv6 hot end

The cooling fan mount for cooling the hot end doubles as the mounting clamp for the groove mount. Slide the hot end through the hole in the base of the clamp and then attach it to the bracket on the carriage using M3 cap screws. I believe 13mm screws will work best here. Any longer and they will probably bottom out against the carriage.

For my printer, I transplanted the heater cartridge and the thermistor from the factory stock hot end to the E3Dv6, so I would not have compatibility issues with the firmware.

Install the hot end cooling fan

Installing the Hot End cooling fan.

The stock hot end cooling fan was transplanted to the new bracket. The hot end cooling fan should run while the hot end is hot, to prevent jams from forming above the heat break. The best way to insure this is to have the fan enabled all the time by the control board. Unfortunately, the Mini does not have a separate fan output for the hot end, so connecting the fan to 12V so it runs when the printer is on is the only option.

The optional part cooling fan really needs to be speed controlled for the best prints, so the single fan output on the Mini will be connected to the part cooling fan.

Hot end LEDs

Lighting the Hot End with LEDs

A pair of 3mm white LEDs are used in the optional part cooling fan bracket. I used some white LEDs I had laying around and put 1K resistors in series with each for current limiting. These will connect to the 12V in parallel to the hot end heatsink fan. When the hot end fan is on, the LEDs will be on. I insulted the leads and the resistors with some heat shrink tubing.

LEDs installed in fan bracket.

Install the LEDs in the part cooling fan bracket.

The part cooling fan has holes where the 3mm LEDs will mount. They snap in place and a dab of hot glue holds them from backing out. The slot in the right edge of the bracket under where the fan mounts is provided so the LED wires have a way to escape and connect to power.

Part Fan installation shown here.

Installing the fan in the part cooling fan bracket.

The part cooling fan mounts to the bracket covering the LEDs. I used a 4 position JST type connector so that I can remove the part cooling fan bracket when not needed. I wired this to the connector on the controller board which was formerly the single fan output on the board. This was because the firmware has control of this fan, and the speed of this fan can be configured by a slicer so it is only on when needed and off when part cooling is undesirable.

The Zero Offset E3Dv6 Mount installed and wired.

The part cooling fan installed.

Install the Part Cooling Fan on the Hot End

The last thing to do is clip the part cooling onto the E3Dv6 mount. There are two tabs on the sides of the hot end mount that mate with the slots on either side of the part cooling fan bracket. The JST connector is then used to provide the power to the part cooling fan and the LEDs.

If you're using ABS or don't otherwise need the part cooling fan, you can remove it completely by sliding it off and setting it aside. This is also useful for cleaning the nozzle or doing maintenance on the hot and. When you want to use the part cooling fan again, you can snap it back on.

Here's a short video clip of the Zero Offset E3Dv6 Hot End Mount in action

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Hi, I have a question regarding the fan wiring. It seems that I cannot control the fan speed on the stock hotend/heatsink, since it is always needed to be turned on. Where should I connect the layer fan since the stock fan cannot be controlled anyway?

We just printed these parts (in 3D Solutech Clear PETG) in anticipation of getting a new hotend, and when the hotend came in, we put all the parts together, and found that the heat sink has some 'wiggle' to it, allowing the entire unit to rotate in the adapter. We're hesitant to plug this in until we know how to fix the problem. Do you know if there's an adhesive that can be added to arrest the excess motion?

Hi
While doing these mods I accidentally cut the extruder fan whilst the power was on. Now the fan does not run when the extruder heats up. The fan still works when 12v applied to the plug at the board. I cannot see any exploded components on the board near the fan power socket. I guess I blew the tiny SMT transistor when the wires shorted. Can anyone confirm that this is the likely and only point of damage.
Thanks

I'm thinking about printing these pieces in PETG, since PLA is not advised for it. However I'm slightly worried about bridging with petg, should I print these with supports or will cooling during bridge sections be enough?

Nice design, will this fit the V2... I have one coming!

Thanks! The V2 has a totally different setup with a E3D clone on it. This will only fit the V1. A version that works on both printers is in testing now and should be released soon.

Any updates you can share here? Itching for the V2 models. I've all but given up on having pretty prints due to issues with overhang cooling.

Looking forward to one that fits V2. I'm ready to swap. Thanks!

Nice design and it fits well, but why the air on the nozzle? Mine jams at where the throat and the heat block meet as it heats up so much that the filament gets too soft to push into the nozzle. I'm redesigning the second fan part to point at the base of the throat. Also, how did you get a filament guide end that screws into the top of the heat sink covering the throat? Mine has threads but the heatsink doesn't so I screwed it into some wood and ziptied it to the top of the heatsink.

The air is not on the nozzle, it's on the plastic coming out of the nozzle. Plastics like PLA in particular need to cool rapidly, so they do not form strings. By directing and concentrating the air on the plastic as it emerges from the nozzle, it results in better prints.

Apr 22, 2017 - Modified Apr 22, 2017

My e3d clone sits in the bracket a little loose. How tight a fit should there be and does it matter if some rotation is possible? I did a benchy test print in abs and it looks pretty good except near the tops of the windows where things got messy.

Is the slack variable depending on the clone or should I print the remixed version because I have the newer mini? My current bracket seems to fit snug and plumb, but my nozzle is offset almost touching the screws in the home position.

Thank you for this. It is a nice design that works well.

Great design and excellent directions!

Can I print this in carbon fiber infused PLA? Don't have ABS and I'm doing the bed mod so I figured why not do this at the same time?

Some people say they printed this in PLA and it works fine for them. I suspect that carbon filled PLA will be more temperature resistant, so it could only help make it better.

Are nylon m3 lock nuts required for the clamp?

I only have regular M3 nuts on hand. :(

It will work without the locking nuts. Just keep an eye on them that they don't loosen up over time.

Thank you for the great design. I installed it and it is working great. The only problem I had was that the screws were a little short so I had to get some 16mm screws. Other than that it installed pretty easily.

Just finished this up and everything fits perfectly. I have a question about the part fan, though. What needs to change to get control of it? I hardwired the extruder fan and wired the part cooling fan to the fan output on the board. I don't know what to change in the firmware so I can control as a parts fan. It's coming on as if it's still the extruder fan. Thanks.

I made a timer circuit to control the hot end cooling fan that comes on when the heater starts and shuts off after 2 minutes after the heater is off. I explain it on my hackaday.io project page: https://hackaday.io/project/14823-monoprice-select-mini-maximum-3d-printer-mods/log/48494-what-to-do-if-youre-not-a-fan-of-constantly-running-fans

I hardwired the fan that is on the extruder. I'm not worried about that. I'm wondering how I get control of the former extruder fan so I can control as a parts fan.

Thanks for the work on this.This build looks AWESOME!!! I am going to definitely try this out.

Just wanted to mention that on my Mini the bosses on the carrier are larger in dia at the base, just a MM or two, and the step extends about 5MM from the base, so this bracket requires a bit of tweaking to make it seat completely otherwise it runs into the lip and sits too far out. For now I just manually tweaked mine so I can get the printer running but I plan on getting some measurements and making modifications to the file so I can print another one. I suspect that the design of my carrier is the most current revision so I will share my revisions once I get around to it, I am guessing that others will run into the same problem so it might save them a headache.

Someone did a remix of this to adapt it for the newer mini with the thicker bosses.

Yep, and it is a good fit for the newer units, but thanks for the original version. Only proper design available IMO. Thank you for the work.

Can you post your cad files for this? The STL files are so complex that remixing is really challenging...

Comments deleted.
Jan 5, 2017 - Modified Jan 6, 2017

I'm in the process of making this, did you use the factory screws? I ordered a set of assorted bolts and nuts for the gantry support mod as well so if not I should have plenty of choices but if you can narrow it down id appreciate it. edit gonna try to print it on abs once my e3d v6 gets here.....currently printed in pla....hope she makes it through it but idk

I think they were 13mm long. The factory screws work for the lower part, but the clamp part that holds the hot end on need to be a little longer.

Wow, love it! I didn't see the deep groove in the bracket at first glance, but it's inspired. The bracket sinks so deeply into the rail mount. My print fit like a glove and is way more secure than my old v3 E3D mount.

Thanks for the great feedback! You're too kind!

Does anyone have any tips for printing the Fan_Shroud_clamp? For some reason when it starts printing the overhangs on the latter part of the print the edges start curling upward. :(

Are you using the heated bed and ABS? More bed temperature can help.

What length of screws should be used to hold the bracket onto the gantry? I'd assumed the stock screws (which formerly attached to square nuts in the stock heat sink) would be fine, but mine are slightly too short.

Also: How did you leave the gantry guard off? What are you connected the X endstop to? It's normally attached to the end of the guard just inside the tower.

I suspect there have been some changes to the design of the printer since yours was made =/

I think I used 12 or 13mm long screws. I had a pack of assorted sizes, and picked the ones that fit best. I think longer ones would protrude out the back and hit the existing plastic piece.

earlier versions of the printer had the endstop attached to a separate bracket, on newer ones its attached directly to the shroud. there was a bracket posted on here to allow it to be mounted the same as the earlier ones and as such remove the shroud permanently, but i dont have the link saved, hopefully you can find it with a bit of searching

Would it be possible for you to post either the cad files for the part cooling fan mount, or a version without the LED holes? I'm putting this on my printer, but I don't plan on adding lights and I wouldn't want air getting out where it's not supposed to.
That said, this is a fantastic looking mount. Minimal offset is key, and the removable part cooling fan is ingenious. Can't wait to get it up and running!

what size are the fans?

Can you go into a little more detail about the fan and LED wiring?

The fan that goes on the main body of the mount and cools the aluminum fins of the hot end is wired directly to the 12V supply input to the control board inside. When the switch is turned on, the fan comes on. The LEDs are wired with the Anode (longer lead) to + and the Cathode (short lead) to -. Each LED has to have a 1Kohm current limit resistor between one of the legs and the power supply. It doesn't matter which lead you connect the resistor in series with. The LEDs are both connected to the same +12V that powers the main fan described above. The existing fan from the stock unit (the one connected to the plug on the control board and controlled by the slicer software) is moved to the lower fan position, because this fan is used to cool the plastic rapidly as it comes out of the nozzle. The slicer software has settings that can be tuned to increase or decrease the fan speed as more cooling is demanded or less cooling is demanded.

What wattage of resistor did you use?

For the LEDs? Each one has a 1/4W resistor in series to drop the current through the LED. The LEDs only draw a few milliamps, so these resistors are probably a lot more wattage than needed. It's hard to find thru-hole resistors smaller than 1/4W these days. Everything is surface mount.

Did you need to change a setting to get the layer fan working properly? I left it connected to the board but was unable to turn it off via the slicer. It just runs full speed just like the heatbreak fan.

Not sure if it's because the genuine E3D V6 has a bigger heatsink or if there are a few different versions of the stock carrier block, but I had to trim a notch on the bottom lip of the carrier for the heatsink to clear. That lip also caused the heat sink clamp to need a bit of material removed where it butts up against it, without doing both the clamp can't tighten all the way down and the hot end sits slightly skewed forward, messing with the zero offset. I also noticed the heatsink is butted up against the nuts that secure the extruder mount to the carrier on my setup. Other than those two issues though the design is fantastic!

The heatsink does contact the nuts because that was the farthest back I could possibly position the hot end. My goal was to really try and get it in the same location as the stock nozzle, so I made it touching the nuts to minimize the offset. As for the other issues, I have a genuine E3Dv6 on my other printer (Rostock Max V2) and the cheap clone was the same size as that. The only thing I can think of is I know E3D changed the V6 to use a cartridge style thermistor a couple of months ago, and perhaps that changed the shape of the heater block? Does yours have the cartridge thermistor?

I just checked your assembly pictures and noticed that the extruder mount on yours doesn't sit in nearly as deep as mine does. The lower lip on the carrier block I mentioned is flush with the lowest part of the heatsink cutout on yours, it stuck out about 2mm on my unit causing the issue with the heatsink.

Nov 1, 2016 - Modified Nov 1, 2016

Mine is the old style heater block, I reused the original thermistor and heater cartridge. My issue was part of the heat sink and the lower part of the shroud/clamp bumping into a lip built into the stock carrier block.

I've noticed this before on another adaptor where I had to trim 5mm off the bottom so I'm thinking there may be a few variants of the carrier block. I've already noticed the x rod shroud, axis limit switch mounting on both X and Z and the gantry tower panels are ever so slightly different from my first batch and the replacement I got.

I like the design of your part cooling nozzle. The fact that you are using it with an un-insulated heater block means you likely designed the nozzle to put more air where it needs to go instead of onto the heater block. I was using another design and had to tweak a lot of the output path with kapton to fix PID issues, and that was with an insulator on the block. I can't wait to print and try this version. Thanks for sharing!

Thanks for the comment. You are correct. I created the fan nozzle so that it blows a portion of the air straight down toward the top of the printed part, but there is a jet of air that is cut off just at the tip of the nozzle. No air should blow on the nozzle or heater block and it should only be cooling the plastic that was freshly extruded. I've seen much better prints with narrow walls and small tall features like swords or antennas pointing up. It also helps with support. I expect it is good for bridging, but I have not tested this yet. I was going to use the stock insulator, but it fell apart when I took it off the printer, so I skipped it.

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