Drylin Style Bushing RJ4JP-01-08 RJ4JP-01-10 (LM8UU and LM10UU direct replacement)

by stevehlau Nov 5, 2016
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He impreso en PLA, el archivo esta bastante bien diseñado, la cuestión es que hay que aumentar sus dimensiones 0,5 mm en cualquiera de sus ejes x ó y, para que quede perfectamente acoplado en la varilla de 8 mm, también hay que reducir el bloque donde va alojado dicho buje en aproximadamente 1,0 mm en el eje x o z.
A ver, es probable que el PLA no sea el material mas adecuado para hacer este diseño, la fricción que ejerce una maquina, como por ejemplo la Anet 8, que tiene dimensiones relativamente pequeñas, haya calentamiento en estos bujes, ya que el movimiento es lineal y el calentamiento posiblemente suceda en verano, como es mi caso, que se alcanzan temperaturas de mas de 40 grados centígrados, pero ahora en invierno, el calentamiento es mínimo, además esta contrastado con otros usuarios que han utilizado PLA para fabricarlos y el resultado es mas que satisfactorio.
Muchas gracias por compartir este diseño.

PD. En la impresión 3D hay que realizar muchas pruebas hasta conseguir el resultado que se busca.

A waste of time, PLA is not suitable for this purpose !
Your V2 version is just a bit elastic and therefore compensates for the incorrect sizes, avoiding binding.
Surface finish is unsuitable too. Will wear out quickly leading to excessive play.
The proper way is to use the proper material for ex. Igus filament, eventually Nylon, have the hole undersized and ream it to get the right surface finish and size.
And if you go with Igus filament, you can make the bearing smaller and easier to integrate in parts like carriage. Reduce size and weight.
In short, this is a bad copy of the Igus stl files. Will be worse than the Chinese SC8UU or bronze bushings.

FDM 3D printing is all about waste of time. None of the filament is suitable for such bushing unless you mold the plastic because it gives you a smooth surface. Therefore, IGUS filament is a waste of money as well. Just buy the bushings from them instead of printing it.

In other words, metal bushings or bearings are the way to go and will withstand the high heat from friction between the contact surface.

I use Igus filament and it works very well. As I said, just a matter to finish them PROPERLY by using a reamer for example. The surface quality is quite good and provided you get a tight fit, you can "burnish" the surface with the smooth rod.
I did my own because it was a funny waste of time that turned out to be useful. I can make them in the size and shape I want (round, flat, V, lead screw nut ...) and integrate them in the parts which can be smaller, lighter.

I even replaced the ball bearings of the idlers pulleys with Igus bushing. Can't believe the junk Chinese dare to put on the market !

OK, skills and tools are required and when I see how most put together their machine !

Comments deleted.

Please can you make 10mm version with the same cool design? (LM10UU)

There you have it. I just uploaded the 10mm version as request.