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Extruder Cooling Duct for the Anet A8 Printer

by Leo_N, published

Extruder Cooling Duct for the Anet A8 Printer by Leo_N Nov 6, 2016

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Summary

05.02.2017 - ATTENTION: I no longer recommend this cooler!

Use this version instead: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2086191


I've been printing all kinds of coolers for my Anet A8 printer. Either some are too clunky, too heavy or some don't fit because they are too low or too high. With others the air for cooling is not being drawn to the ideal area on the object. Most of the ones I've tested are designs I made myself.
At the end of the day I have found that the cooler I designed for download here suits my needs the best. It has some similarities with this design which rightly so is the most downloaded version as I post this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1620630
However it didn't satisfy all my needs. The most important reason to design my own was that I have a different filament extruder height. Because of this I decided to design 6 coolers for different heights. They are 25.5mm, 24.5mm, 23.5mm, 22.5mm, 21.5mm and 20.5mm. You will need to measure the height from the bottom of the fan to the bottom of the extruder nozzle. See picture marked with "X". Then subtract at least 1mm to chose which cooler you want to print accordingly.
This cooler also has an opening for clearance of the heater cables.

Attention:

  • The heater block is not centered on the ring. That is intentional! However it is important that the nozzle be in the center of the ring for even distribution of the air.
  • It is recommended that the cooler be printed in ABS or PETG as these filaments are more heat resistant. However I have mine printed in PLA without any issues. When printing ABS or high temp filaments I just remove the cooler. You normally don't print with the fan on for high temp filaments.

Please let me know if you have a problem with the design so I can improve it if necessary.

Also please post a picture with comments if you have made one.

Thanks.

Leo

Print Settings

Printer:

Anet A8

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

0.2

Infill:

100%


Notes:

The 3D print was made with PLA at 35mm/s with a 0.8mm shell thickness and 0.8mm top / bottom thick closures.

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The upper thread of my extruder broke off and I needed a more stubby fan that wasn't going to get torn off. This was exactly what I needed, great idea.

Sorry, but after all you,ve tested. Wich is the one you prefer. Ian nos ussing your mistral and very Happy with It.
Regards

My recommendation is Mistral 2.1a

Jun 12, 2017 - Modified Jun 12, 2017

hey man,

loving the design but the neck is too short for my extruder setup( horizontally, not vertically), can you upload/send ma an editable file?

thanks!

Email?

sent via PM

Jan 31, 2017 - Modified Jan 31, 2017

Hi, a technical question about the air flow. I have tested other similar designs, and I have created a method of testing the air flow comeing out. Almost all of the designs I haved tested failed in creating a real circular air flow. I have not tested yours yet, but so far looks promissing about this. I would like to know if you have tested the air flow direction, if you can confirm that the air comes out evenly from all holes. Also and most important, since you are the designer: In your picture you show than the cooling fuct should be mounted in a way that there is 1 mm of difference between the noozle tip and the base of the duct, this is the way you have tested that the air flow is directed to the noozle tip and surrounding areas?
Just as an example, the link provided to the other circular disign fails about this . It directs air directly to the noozle but in a very un even way and DIRECTLY to the noozle. It makes the tip of the noozle to cool down A LOT, and I was able to create a clog printing PET because with the fan turned at 100%, the tip of noozle was cooled down to below 220 degreed, and that made pet flow to be so hard that back presure was created.

Finally a refreshing post by someone thinking more deeply into the matter :-)

To answer your question about testing airflow: Yes and No. I don't have the proper equipment to measure with smoke however I did do tests with water. Here is an example: http://www.leo.nutz.de/images/3D_Printing/Forums/Extruder_Cooling_Duct_Water_Test_Leo.jpg
The 1mm advisory is to make sure users don't mount it higher to avoid unnecessary air blowing on the nozzle/heater block. You will never be able to fully avoid it though.

I have been working on a new cooling duct which as it stands right now is much more efficient then this version. It has already been tested by a very respectable Anet User. I'm still working on some minor improvements however if you wish to test it let me know.

Sure, i would like to test your new design. And i will sendyou pics of the test of actual design. I actually dont have an anet. I have a prusa and e3d v5, but i managed to adapt your duct to it
Will you send me yournew design by email?

I'm trying to print one for my Anet A6 and after two hours and ten minutes of printing I realized it won't work on my printer because the distance from the fan to the extruder block is less than the A8 and I can't seem to find how to remix this design so if you could please design one for the A6. The hight is fine I just need about 3/8th of distance to fit the back of the circle hits the extruder block so it won't slide into the fan. Thanks

I sure there are cooling ducts on Thingiverse that will suite your needs.

How about trying this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1996843

Anet A6 Adjustable Fan
by jadames
Comments deleted.

I printed one then was going to share the next day but it is too close to my heat block and it warped and hit the print :( . I keep seeing people with what looks like aluminum foil on the top of the other coolers but can't confirm what exactly it is. Love this design but need to find a way to keep the heat off it so it won't warp. Used PLA which is one problem :\ . Does anyone know if metal tape or foil or anything else is good to use to keep the heat off it?

Can confirm warping, thought it was just me. 4 fans later, 8-9 hours after printing and it's already warped opposite of the mouth side.

Thanks for the info. Then it would be best to use ABS as filament.

You are the first to mention warping. I also haven't seen a bracket covered with foil probably because it will not work. Heat will still get through to the plastic. It would be very much help if you could make some pictures of your setup and send them to [email protected] What temperatures are you running the printer with? Thanks.

love the Design!
Could you make a Version without the cutout in the ring? :)

I don't think that is necessary unless you insist.
Check out this similar cooler designed as a closed ring version: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1620630

Hesine M-505, Anet A8 - Center Nozzle Fan
by Arjjck

Information: why do you design with open ring version? (not closed)...

Nov 25, 2016 - Modified Nov 25, 2016
Leo_N - in reply to Alex76

Because the heater cables have to pass through the ring.
Also the ring will deform in the area where it would touch the heater cables. That happened to me and that is why I made a cooler with an opening.
The opening does not negatively effect the cooling.

thanks

This fits exactly my needs, thanks for linking :)

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