Wanhao D6 Left Fan Mount With Slide On Nozzle - Top Fixing

by JohnBeardon, published

Wanhao D6 Left Fan Mount With Slide On Nozzle - Top Fixing by JohnBeardon Nov 7, 2016


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Fusion 360

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Having tried and designed several dual fan mounting systems for the Wanhao D6, I came to the conclusion that all of them have their own problems and having to re-print the whole thing just to make small adjustments (or if the thing started to deform) was a pain. In my view the stock, right hand cooler isn't actually bad, it's just the lack of left and cooling that lets the printer down.

I've taken a different approach, retaining the stock cooling and designed a mount that is fixed using the unused M3 tapped holes in the head block. This provides a significantly more stable platform on which to mount the additional 40mm fan. The design also separates the mount from the fan shroud/nozzle so you can try different designs of nozzle or just re-print that part should the nozzle become deformed. The mount also allows for height adjustment so differing nozzle heights can be catered for.

The mount worked great. Rock solid and with zero deformation. I was however still having problems with the fan nozzle deforming when printing ABS. All the left hand side fan mounts suffer from this issue. They are fine when printing PLA, PETG and other filaments that extrude with a hot end temp of 200° C or under and a bed temperature of 60° C or less. When you ramp that up to 230/100° C the nozzles just start to get soft and deform, sometimes to the extent that the nozzle starts hitting the print with disastrous results.
It’s generally accepted that cooling isn’t required with ABS, so why not get the ‘warpy’ component out of the way? Obviously, having to undo bolts to remove the nozzle each time is a right old faff (believe me, after switching filament about 5 times in a week and doing this each time, I know!) so I have designed a nozzle to work with this mount that simply slides on and off. You just need to mount the fan with the two rear bolts only and slip the mount on from the front.

After some people reported issues with this mount fouling the left hand rods and preventing homing, I have modified the mount to remove additional material and increase clearance. I've included 2 STL's for the new mount, one with supports included, the other without.

Print Settings


Wanhao Duplicator 6










Print with the base (fan mount plate) on the build plate.
Supports required for the mounting arms.
I removed the automatically generated supports from the screw mounting slots. The screw slots will probably need some filing - I made them quite tight.
Print in PETG or ABS.

Print with the base on the build plate. Supports required. Try and make sure the slide on 'ears' are supported as they need to be quite accurate. Removing supports from the nozzle opening can be a pain. Be patient to avoid damage!
Print in PETG or ABS.

You will need 4 x 5mm M3 Machine Screws to fix the mount to the block and 3 x 20mm M3 Machine Screws (2 if using the slide on nozzle) with nuts to mount the nozzle and fan. I've also used nylon washers but those are optional. If using the slide on nozzle, mount the bolts with the heads on the underside. The nozzle has clearance intended for the bolt heads and may not clear nuts (if you were to insert the bolts from the top).

You will also (obviously) need an additional 40mm fan and if this is the first mount you have created, do yourself a favour and replace the stock one at the same time with a ball-bearing fan. You will either need a 'Y' fan lead adapter or some soldering skills. The fans are wired in parallel but you MUST make sure the polarity is correct as it is reversed on the stock fan. There are more detailed wiring instructions available, check out the D6 Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/470637449795481/

When fitting the mount, assemble the whole thing first and hand tighten the mounting screws. I would suggest using a steel rule or other straight edge to get the bottom level with the existing right hand nozzle.

Some people have reported issues slicing the slide on nozzle with Cura. I have no idea why this would be as it slices without any problems in S3D. To help out, I have included a PETG GCode file for the nozzle that has been tested on the D6.

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i have probelm when connect in parallel stock fun e noctua fun, the printer make me error, any solution?
what do you mean when you said connect to serial? i have connect positive wire of the stock fun with negative noctua and at the end connect negative stock fun and positive noctua in the printer?


Noctua fans are either 5 volts or 12 volts. The fan supply is 24 volts. Others have used 2 x 12 volt Noctuas wired in series although it is not a configuration I would recommend. You CANNOT use a 12 volt Noctua together with the stock fan.
I've attached a wiring diagram which hopefully will help.

I ended up with a small split near the back on the nozzle. I'm not sure why, as I'm completely new to this.
Also ended up with some printer issues on one of the supports for the nozzle. It appears that will go away once I cut the support away.

Thank you for posting the model. I'm hoping to continue with printing the mount within the next day or two. Perhaps someone can review my "I Made One" settings and give me some pointers?

I've had a look at your print settings. Couple of things. Most of the time, no cooling is required with ABS. It will de-stabilise temperature and cause shrinkage. The wall where you have the problem is quite thin, so shrinkage could be causing this split. I also print these at 0.2 resultion, there is no need to go any finer. For ABS, I would also print with 3 or 4 shells (outlines) and 3 or 4 top and bottom layers.

Overall, it looks like a good print but I would point at the cooling causing the split.

Wow, thank you for taking the time to look and respond, much appreciated. I'll turn off cooling for the next round, as well as changing the resolution and outlines. Happy new year!

How is the cooling performance with this compared to stock?

Much better. As mentioned several times, it's the cooling solution I keep going back to. While I have no scientific air flow data, cooling is much more even. It's a very poplular option with users in the D6 Facebook group.

Thanks homie. fist bump

Thank you very much for this design! One of the coolest things is that your design is very forgiving even when printing with pour extrusion settings. I am using it for about a week and it works like a charm. I used PLA to print the fan mount and then added some thermal protection to the nozzle with 3M double sided tape and aluminum foil. Plus, the hotend on my printer has thermal insulation, so the fan nozzle stays relatively cold. I haven't noticed any signs of deformation even after 1 hour at 210° C extruder temp with fans off. I typically print at 205-210/100° C with fans 100%, which is far less stressful. Using hotend insulation is a must to prevent hotend cooling caused by additional air flow.

Glad you like it! I keep going back to this one, although my fan bearings are on their way out so I need to get better ones.
Thanks for taking the time to provide the feedback!

Thank you for this design, I have tested many others. Your is the most simple, easy to install, light. It's a good compromise

I use it since 7 march 2017, PLA printed 100% infill, no deforming. (Most of my prints are made max 210°/65°).

Installed with 2 fans Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX and Silicon boot on nozzle

Many thanks for your feedback. Like you, I have tried many designs including some of the more recent ones for blower fans but I keep going back to this one. Interesting feedback regarding PLA by the way. I'd be interested to know how you have connected the Noctua fans as the only ones I could find were 12volt.

I use standard Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX 12V and... They are compatible with printer in 24V (connected in series), I print evrey day with this fans since 16 May 2017.

Link on your country : https://www.amazon.co.uk/noctua-NF-A4X10-FLX-Noctua-NF-A4x10/dp/B009LEJ6RY


may you help me to connect the fun? i connect it in parallel but ptinter make me error in the printing?

That is really interesting. I've been concerned about connecting 12volt fans in series as they are PWM fans. Will be giving it a go after your observations! Thanks again.

Any fan reccomendations? Should i replace them with matching ones?

I used some cheapo ones that came in a pack of 4 from Amazon. They lasted about a month before the sleeve bearings started getting noisy. Just try and find ball bearing 24v 40x40x10 fans. Worth replacing the stock fan at the same time because it also has crappy bearings.

Yes indeed, my Maker Ultimate arrived late yesterday and I had already printed this mount in advance.
I also had to take a Dremel to mine, I took out about a 2mm half moon chunk on the left front and left rear corners. No problem to do so, it would have been easier if it was not as tight up against the rods.
Thanks John for a great design.

I've now created an amended version of the mount that shouldn't interfere with the with the top rails. Bit busy at the moment so will get it uploaded as soon as I can.

Comments deleted.

I just got my new D6 a few days ago. I had the same issue with the top left corner of the bracket coming real-close to touching the rods. This happens when the head is positioned home. I submitted a pic showing how close it was in my make. Some Dremel sanding fixed this; no biggie. Thanks John for a great design!

Hi Bob - Thanks for letting me know about this. There appear to be some marked differences between D6's - possibly between the Mark1 and 2. The end stop switch seems to be in a different place on some models. DarthDadio had the same problem and (in a way) I am glad that he is not the only one as I was thinking it was an issue with his machine.

I'll amend the design to form a cut- out that should clear the rods. Cheers!

Comments deleted.

I actually fixed the issue by shaving off the corner. I will take pictures when I get home this evening to give you and idea of my issue. Essentially by prints always start by home the print head to the front left of the printer. This is when the issue occurs.

Thanks, I would appreciate it. I realise the the D6 has some 'variances' and what works on mine may not be the same for others. If I can amend the design to compensate, I will.


Thanks Darth. This is very strange. My x-axis limit switch fires 2mm before the top corner of the mount would contact the side rails. That seems more than a manufacturing variance! Has your printer been modified or has the limit switch shifted?

No modifications and I haven't moved the switch.

Very very odd. I've contact 2 other people who are using this mount and neither of their heads are trying to move that far left. Both are hitting the limit switch before the mount hits the rails.

Trying this design but it causing a homing issue. The print head cannot travel all the way to the front corner. The top corner of the bracket stops the sideways motion before the stop switch can be triggered in the back.

Curious. I've been using this design for about 6 weeks now with no problems. Is there any chance you could take some photos of where the issue is being caused so I can try and replicate - if they cannot be posted here, email john at ashweb dot eu