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eXzez

Flexi - Solder help

by eXzez Nov 8, 2016
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can you use pctpe for the flexible filament?

Hi, i did not use this material so far so i can not say that it works, but what i have read from the Manufacturer i think it can be use.
The only thing you must eventually adjust is the infill of the flexible parts dependent how soft this material iss.
More softer material needs a higher infill and more stiffer material needs lower infill.

Try a test print of one joint and one sphere and check it before you print all.

Hope it helps ;)

Thanks for the model. Slightly changed the flexi cylinder, so that it tightens the sphere of the lever more tightly

Thanks for such an awesome design. Looking forward to using it for my soldering work!

Thank you sephora99, hope you found it usefull!

does the base really need to be printed in flexible filament? i don't wanna waste any if i don't have to since its expensive

The result of printing the base in non flexible filament is that the plug dimensions on the base for the spoolholder and the rest of the mounted parts are to small.
All this parts do not fit correctly because the base idea was that the flexible base mounts presses the respective hard part´s.
Remember my slogan says nothing more then a pair of loomband. That means no Glue needed.

But it is possible to remix the file and get them right to print. Or you grind the mounts with some sandpaper to make them fit after printing.

Hope it helps so far.

i love the way you even display the best print orientation etc, awesome work

Thanks my friend,
I wanted to make it as simple and understandable as possible. So that everyone can get a successful 3D print.

I have checked the meshes and the files updated. Now they works also in Simplify 3d & hopefully in any other Slicer.
Please note that Simplify 3d scale the file "Cylinder-joint.stl" wrong at import! To resolve this problem go to the rescale tab and press reset scale. Now you have the right scale for proper use.
Don´t know whats wrong with this prog. ;)

Sorry for the issues but in Craftware i have no gaps seen. Looks like that Craftware have a better auto correction as Simplify 3d and forgive Mesh mistakes much more.

Anyway thank you wookie_666 for the hint about the gaps!

No worries. I quickly designed my own pegs and flexy tubes anway to get mine printed. But thanks for the design. it works great, and the use of TPU with PLA makes the arms flexible, and stiff at the same time.

your flex join and cylinder join have issues printing.
there is a gap about half way up when it slices.

Thanx for the info !

Personally i have no issues in Craftware so far, but i will take a look at the mesh if there is an error or not.
If I find an error, I will update the files.

Tried a few times to get the flexible knuckles created in TPU. Cant seem to get the top to stick to the bottom section. Tried 100% fan, and then 30%. I never had trouble with bigger parts but looks like I have more tuning to figure it out running at 50% infill.

Thats because there is an error in the mesh when slicing with simplify 3d

Hey lamgimp,
I am curious if you were able to get your TPU to work for this project? I have some Hatchbox TPU that I am going to try.

Hey; I didnt try again. It will work I just had some issues with settings. I havn't tried since due to building a ton of quad parts. If I do work on it again I will let you know.

Hi lamgimp,

by my self i have never processed any TPU filament. In case of that my knowledge about this material is limited to that i have read on some product description.
But anyway i wanna try to help you best i can.

First here is a link for proper startup settings and infos about TPU based Filaments.
https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/172062855-what-is-the-difference-between-tpe-and-tpu-flexible-filament

Have you problems wit the liability on the headbed or have you problems inside the printing object? (filament layer adhesion)
What layer height, speed, & temps you have used?

Try some of the following things....
Layer height @ 0,1mm, If the layer became to hot & cooling with fan sucks, acclerating the printspeed can help to avoid overheating them. If the filament layer adhesion iss to bad, lower the fanspeed/printspeed and/or increase the print temp.

For the top & bottom layer don´t use concentric, my printer do not like this method. Sure concentric are mostly faster but needs more accurate printersetup and looks not so good like parralel.
Printings @ 0,1 mm need more top & bottom layer to avoid holes. I personally prefer min. 3 bottom layer & min. 5 top layer for proper results.
For Flexifill i have use 50% infill (squaregrid), Filaflex is more flexible and the infill must be higher. Something around 60 to 75% just worked fine for me. It depends on the material fleixibility you use. More flexible more infill density, less flexible lower infill density.
Tiny parts are always harder to print on 3d printer. Any printer differ from the other and so it´s sometimes a try and faulty job to find the right settings for your own setup.

I hope some of my words can help you to get better results. Let me know if things works and post the working settings with TPU for the Community.

Happy printing ;)

Edit:
Another way to get better cooling to the layers is to print multiple tiny parts. If you print only one tiny part as single it is much harder to become the right cooling for the layer. At multiple part printing you give each layer of any tiny part more time too cool down while the extruder move from one object to the next and comes back after finishing all the other Objects layer to start the next layer.

Comments deleted.

Thanx, I'm glad you like it!