Mini NES Pi 3 Case (Customizable)
by LKM, published
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This Raspberry Pi 3 NES case...
- Is visually as close as possible to a real NES
- Fits a Raspberry Pi 3
- Has plenty of space in the case for additional parts
- Is made in OpenSCAD and customizable
- Is easily assembled and disassembled without screws (exception: the Pi itself is screwed to the bottom section of the case)
- Provides simple access to all ports
- Can be printed and assembled very easily (arguably, this one is a slight miss :-)
Please watch this video showing tips for printing, and how to assemble the pieces:
Picking a Version: Vents
There are two versions of the vents on the top part.
- Square vents are closer to how the original NES looked, but a bit harder to print, since the height of the first layer needs to be perfect for the model's details to be visible
- Rounded vents are easier to print, and look a bit more modern
See the "round vs square" image to see the difference.
Picking a Version: Raspberry Pi Orientation
There are three different versions of this case's top and bottom parts.
- If you need access to all ports, and want to be able to quickly replace the MicroSD card, print the "upside down pi" versions of the top and bottom parts.
- If you want a cleaner version of the case without the the ports in the back, print the versions of the top and bottom parts without "upside down pi" in their name; this version doesn't provide access to the MicroSD card, the ethernet port, and two of the USB ports, but the back looks a bit prettier.
- If you want the cleanest possible case, go with the "sideways" versions of the top and bottom parts. These move HDMI, audio, and power to the back, and don't expose the SD card, Ethernet, or USB ports (although there is room inside the case to plug something into the USB ports).
If you're unsure, print the "upside down pi" versions of the top and bottom parts.
The Raspberry Pi uses M2.5 screw holes on its PCB. However, I've used M3 screws to screw the Pi in place. The reason for this is that the screws are threaded into printed plastic, so it's not possible to torque them tightly. By screwing M3 screws into the PCB's M2.5 screw holes, the screws hold the Pi in place perfectly, even if the screws aren't torqued into the printed plastic.
Having said that, you might not want to do this, since there is a chance that you might harm your Pi by screwing M3 screws into its M2.5 holes. Therefore, there's a variable in the OpenSCAD file where you can change the screw diameter the case uses. If you want to use M2.5 screws, open the OpenSCAD file, change the screw_size variable to the value you want, and render the bottom part of the case.
Unfortunately, the Thingiverse Customizer seems to be unable to render this OpenSCAD file. Therefore, to customize it, download nespi.scad and open it in OpenSCAD. This will allow you to change the text on the lid, and make some other changes to the model.
Small Build Plate
If your printer has a small build plate, and the model is too wide to fit on it, you can download the OpenSCAD file. There's a width parameter inside the file that's not visible in the Customizer. However, after you've changed the width, the inserts of the feet may overlap with the black ribbons. You can either not use feet, or just glue the feet on slightly offset, instead of inside the inserts.
Working Buttons and LED
By default, this model doesn't have working buttons, or a working LED. However, ElTacoLoco created a button and LED holder that allows you to make the LED and the buttons functional. Check it out here:
Original Prusa i3 MK2
Print all of the STLs with individual models once, except for the feet (four times) and the buttons (twice).
Print without support; the model has built-in supports that can be removed after printing. If you don't have a good part cooling fan, the built-in supports may fuse with the printed part; in this case, edit the OpenSCAD file to remove the built-in supports, or increase the margin between the supports and the printed parts.
I printed with 15% infill, 3 bottom layers, 4 top layers, 3 shells.
When printing the top part, make sure that the width of the first layer is such that you don't end up with slits between the air vents. You can do that by changing the layer width on the first layer, or changing the number of shells.
If you want your final print to look like a real NES, print each part using the color indicated in its name. For the light gray, I used E3D light gray Edge, which was the best fit for the NES's color I could find. For the dark gray, any average gray PLA should do fine.
The feet should be printed with flexible filament.
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Mini NES Pi 3 Case (Customizable) by LKM is licensed under the Creative Commons - Public Domain Dedication license.
What does this mean?
- Remixing or Changing this Thing is allowed.
- Commercial use is allowed.
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