Loading

Tronxy X3 Supercooler - hot end fan shrouds

by idig3d, published

Tronxy X3 Supercooler - hot end fan shrouds by idig3d Nov 21, 2016

Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

9636Views 1219Downloads Found in 3D Printer Parts

Summary

My stock built Tronxy X3 printer's hot end could not go above 205ºC. The stock design cools the heater block too much. I wanted to printer higher temp >220ºC filaments and could not with the stock printer. So here is my solution.

It reuses the screws from the hot end radiator, but they only work if you remove the washers.

It's designed for left and right 30x30x10mm fans (12v) but you could get by with just one. If you add the left one, then you need to use my custom x stop.
Custom x Endstop: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1906501

Wire the 30mm fans in parallel -- and added my own y-connector.

If this is helpful, a tip would be nice. At least a like and show your makes.

Assembly video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMM67JGe3qQ

Please note, this is not compatible with the auto leveling sensor. If I get enough requests, I may figure something out. ;)

Print Settings

Printer:

Tronxy X3

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

0.15-0.25mm

Infill:

20%


Notes:

3 shells or outlines.

Print one in PLA and then use it to get to higher temps and then reprint in ABS, ASA, or PETG.

The heating element wires get warm and will warp a PLA version, but so far, my ABS shows no issues after many hours of printing.

Don't over-tighten the screws mounting the fans or you risk stripping the screw holes o the shrouds.

Post-Printing

For PETG, I've been running the part cooling fans at 25% and they seem to work well.

How I Designed This

As usual, my gateway drug of choice is Onshape.

I started the design on my iPad and then switched to my desktop since I have a bit finer control with my mouse and a bit faster--but not as comfy as designing on the couch with my dog at my side.

More from 3D Printer Parts

view more

All Apps

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

Printed like a charm but problems here. I have 40mm fans only :D

I tried to use a converter but guess what. It did not work as intended as it was funnel shape and I copuld not fit everything there...

Gods...

Ouh and plastic on bottom I feel like is a little too thin.

I wanted a light solution and in old R/C terms, "I build to fly not crash." I stated in the summary is it is for 30x30x10 fans. Is it perfect? Nope. Yep thin, but if you dial in your layer adhesion (I print temperature towers for most filaments for my machines) should be strong enough. My final one had held up for over 1600 hours of print time. I initially printed in PLA. Used that so I could get the hot end temp higher and reprinted in ABS. Rethinking i, I could have tinsnipped out a soda can to make an air diverted to block the fan from cooling the heater block.

I started reworking it with blower fans, but ran into too many other things that needed work.

Glad to see you were able to remix it. Cheers.

I don't know about stock configuration but this make the heater block touch the X carriage (power lost).
Also, I cannot get the desired temp as TRONXY always keep it 1-2ºC below. It happens with stock cooler (which I though was cause by over cooling heater block) but it does happens with his coller too.
Comments would be appreciated.

do a pid tune for the temp problem. and I have this on my printer but modified for auto level. it sounds like you removed the spacers behind the hotend. you need to leave those brass nuts there.

Just did it twice. Get it right the 2nd time.
Thanks.

Thanks for helping clarify this. My spacers were in so tight I never thought of removing them. The spacers are needed for better airflow.

As I mentioned in my write up, my printer could not go over 205C without the shroud. It is now possible for me to regularly print PETG AT 235-240C.

I mounted hot end backwards :( ....

My extruder is off by around 25 degrees. Not sure whats up with mine

I managed to fit the auto level sensor perfectly by only using one fan side.

Hey just wondering if you would let me adapt your design for a 40mm fan on the side and a 50mm fan on the front. Those were the fans that came stock and I realised after printing that this design is a tad small haha. Or could you point me in the direction to purchase the fans you have mounted?

unless you bought a modified unit the stock fan is 40mm with no part cooling. you can get fans on ebay but sometimes you need to switch the pins in the plug as some are wired backwards. I recommend usning a 30mm x 20 or 25mm thick for cooling as they have more air flow.

If you have time, it would be great to have one for the auto level

I also would like a autolevel mount for the left side.

But thank you for all the mods you have made. They truly upgrade the Tronxy to a pretty decent little printer.

Awesome I would also love one allowing Auto Leveling to be added Thank You !

I would like to see one with the auto leveling still intact. I would tip for this being added. you have a great design.

I also think that this would work great but need one that will allow the auto leveling added.
Thanks

I would like to see one too. This one works a lot better then stock one.
Thanks Tom

Hi, can you make the too 30 mm fans in 40mm? Thank you.

May I ask how you power the two new fans?

Run two 12v 30mm fans in parallel off the open fan plug on the controller board.

Can you please discuss the connectors that you have running those to the Controller Board? They look like XH2.54-2P. Are these two 30mmx30mm fans running off of that one open fan plug?

I just used the connectors I had on hand--and pretty sure they are the connectors you listed above. Wired in piggybacked parallel. And yes, 30mm fans. Eventually would like to redo with a blower fan. But probably will drop in a Titan direct drive.

They tend to stay cool and stick around even when things get heated. ;)

Top