Chevy Camaro LS3 V8 Engine - Scale Working Model

by ericthepoolboy Nov 23, 2016
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

Can you make A carburetor intake manifold and a carburetor for this?

j'ai commandé le kit de pieces non imprimés avec le lien pour l'international (je vis en france) mais je viens de voir que 3D Printed Engines m'a remboursé mon achat ;( n'y a t'il pas un autre moyen d'avoir ces pieces ?

One thing i noticed in the pictures for the Cam assembly was that Cam_Bearing_Surface_2_Scaled did not look like the STL provided in the files, and after seeing how the the cam gear set screw(item#24 - M3 8mm Set Screw) and how it didn't line up with the hole on Cam_Bearing_Surface_2, I realized I had to remodeled it. so i included the .f3d project file from fusion360(im a noob so my workflow is probably all out of wack, but), also the STL. The reason I included the Fusion360 file is just in case anybody needs to adjust the sketch. I adjusted the size for countersunk hex nut so it has a fits a little tighter, still haven't tested/printed it yet, but i will today and reply to this post weather its dimensions are acceptable to complete the cam assembly

i should've made the inscribed polygon's radius(slot for the hex nut) bigger than 3.10mm.... she was tight, so I adjusted the radius to 3.2 and included the STL with a couple screenshots to help explain what an inscribed polygon is

Eric, love and appreciate all of the hard work you put into this, and my group of detailers at the office can't wait to see this thing working, but it seems to me that the critical dimension of 175.5mm on Pg.35 should actually be 160.5mm. totally possible i might be missing something. i've included a dimensioned metric export from navisworks where i took actual dimensions of the STL's.... things aren't adding up, please advise

Yes, the 175.5mm is an error. That's the total length of the cam from front face to the rear face. I'll correct and update the instructions.

right on!, thank you

i believe you accidentally added the total length of 1 section(there are 4) of Cam Lobes which equals 27.55mm, instead of adding the overall dimension of surface 1 and 2 which would be 11.5317mm

146.662mm+27.55mm = 174.212mm (when adding a section of 4 lobes instead of surface 1+2)
146.662mm+11.5317mm+2.267mm = 160.4607mm (previous critical dimension of 146.662 + surface 1+2 + TOP extrusion of Cam gear)

although my calculations aren't dead nut(174.212 should actually be 175.5) this is the only conclusion i could come up with.

just for the hell of it i made a decimal inch view which doesn't include some of the notes from the metric view i made, but thought it might be useful for some people that only have standard unit calipers, probably shouldn't have but w/e. i wanna see this thing moving!

oh and by the way, when i ordered my non-printed parts from maker-RX for the engine, i received them in a week(im in california). As for the engine stand, it took about 2.5 weeks. totally worth the wait. trying to source the valve springs is a B. i've learned that this ls3 model a test of patience, the build time is probably a month if you want to do it right while having a day to day job+too many other hobbies.

Comments deleted.

Hey I'm having a heck of a time trying to find the springs for the valves. Has anyone had luck?

After hand making the springs for the flathead, I decided this time to just buy the hardware kit linked above. What I did for the flathead was print a mandrel with threads, spaced along the shaft, ran it in a drill and used the same spool of welding wire I had bought for the 22RE engine build. It was a pain to be honest. I recommend just buying the hardware kit at this point.

Wow. You're my hero! This is one awesome bit of work mate. Truly impressive.

Comments deleted.

Awesome, you did a ton of work and continue to help people with their interpretation of how 3d works, Im laughing at the negative (some) comments. You just handed them months of your work, awesome work I might add and they are bitching at you. Please ignore the unhelpful ones and keep up the good work. I'm not good enough yet to print this and expect it to come out perfect, but I will be trying it as a learning experience, and will gain a ton from what you have done and provided to all of us. Thanks again!

Is there a version of this that isn't a working model and doesnt require the kit?

I have to say this is the most amazing 3d printed item I have ever seen!

Hi Eric,

Awesome stuff, very impressed with your amazing work and ethic of providing all this to the community to use, I really admire that!
How you got everything to fit so well is really a testament to your skill.
Just some feedback on the rocker arms from my experience.
I had trouble printing them at first as they tended to split when I tried to clean them up.
I tried to print 20 at the time, that didn't work but when i did them one by one the were much stronger and worked fine (support everywhere with brim)
I printed the arms at 105% and the pins at 100% then they fit just right otherwise the pins were too big.
If i made the pins smaller they didn't work when I drilled them for a 3mm clearance hole.
I hope this can help someone else.
The other problem I had was the headers were too thin and crumbled easily.
I'll work on finding settings that works for my printer (Ender3, Cura) but hey, that's half the fun.
Again, I am really impressed at how this is turning out, just incredible, makes me want to learn more about my machine and slicer to tweak things so they look and work great.
I was really surprised at how the block turned out, VERY solid and well defined.
I printed the oil pan without support thinking it would fail with such a large horizontal area but it bridged just fine, I'm glad I tried that before turning on support as that would have doubled the print time and added to the filament used.
Your detailed instructions are also very much appreciated, it makes things so much easier.
I bought your hardware kit as after pricing the bits alone I found that your price is a good deal, thank you again!
After I'm done with the LS3 I'll definitely try another of your projects, thank you and please keep up the great work you are doing.
Anyone that complains about some minor issues that they are too lazy to try and resolve themselves should try doing this from scratch and understand what it means to be appreciative.
Some spoiled brats out there.
Please know that 99.9 % of us are grateful for your generosity.

All the best Eric,


Glad you're enjoying the model. The most common printing problems with the rockers and the headers is that they have very thin perimeters. If your print settings are off then it's common for the slicer to print two thin walls with a gap in the middle. Sometimes you have to play with the nozzle setting, overlap setting, thin wall setting, etc. Simplify3D allows you to preview the g-code so you can see exactly how the wall will print. Or if you're using Cura, you can use repetier to view the G code file. Looking over the g-code before printing can save you a lot of time.

Hi Eric. I just wanted to start off by saying that your models are awesome! The amount of skill that takes to makes something like this is incredible. Thank you very much for the time you have invested.
I have a question about the rocker arms on this model. The assembly picture shows the bottom of the rocker open so that the bolt can pass through into the head. After printing them, they came out solid with two slots. Are the slots made to be cut out with a die grinder, or is there an error in the part?

The older rocker arm had "support" built into it as i was never really able to get my slicer to properly add support to it. The ideal was that you would just take pliers of a small flat head and pop the plastic out between the two slots and clean it is up with a razor blade. People found this frustrating so I made the current version one with no supports.

Where did you guys mount the speed control pcb?
Was wire included in the kit? If so l didn’t get any.
Where did you mount the female jacks?
I’ll appreciate any help you can give.

I drilled a hole in the side of the oil pan on the same side that the starter is on. Hot glued the speed controller in, one dc jack on the side of the oil pan that goes to the input power on the speed controller and the DC pigtail out of a hole in the oil pan and into the dc jack in the starter cover. There's not bare wire in the kit, just the pigtail. Too many different ways to mount the controller and it all depends on prefrance. Many people choose to mount all the electronics off of the stand.

Eric I really appreciate your response.
What about polarity? Will I try the speed controller if polarity is wrong?
On another note; how does your stand attach to this engine? What points on the block?
Off topic I know, but I’ve asked on the stand panel to no avail.
Thanks again.

The polarity going into the speed controller matters. It's marked on t he bottom of the board. You wont fry it if you hook it up backwards, it just wont work. The LED on the board will power up if the polarity is correct.

The engine stand attaches to the to bottom holes on the left and right of the bell housing surface and the two holes at the top, the two that are just below the very top hole in the center. If that makes sense.
You can use inserts glued into the block. Just make sure they are in there good. You can through bolt the lower holes if you want.

Just want to say THANKS for page 42 of your assembly instructions. Your metric measurements do not tally with your Imperial units for the pushrod/followers.
So for anyone in the real world who uses metric, you'll, like me, be searching for more piano wire and potentially balls. Reprinting 16 cam followers is no biggy but having to now try to find the hardware is gonna be a naus.
Ordering replacement parts from your Maker-RX affiliation isn't going to happen either, 4 weeks for delivery is equally as ridiculous.
Before you reply with "Check measurements before you cut anything", remember YOU put the measurements on the instructions. If you wanted us to enter design mode and measure part sizes ourselves you should have omitted ALL measurements.
This model has, with your affiliation with Maker-RX, become commercial, so mistakes like this should have been proof-read out.

You sound bitter. I guess I shouldn’t have produced the more detailed assembly instructions and just left the four original drawings. But I thought I was being helpful. And i’m sorry that I live in a country that uses a bastardized measurement system of metric and standard. I tried to use all metric but that proved almost impossible.
As for replacement parts, have you even tried contacting MakerRx? Or contacting me? My email is printed directly on the label of the hardware kit. I would have been happy to send you replacement parts. As for four weeks delivery time, that has to be an embellishment, and shipping speed to another country is out of my control.
As for this model, it is not commercial. It is still open source, the files and parts list are still shared for anyone to go out and by their own parts. As for the hardware kit, that part is commercial, but I stand behind that with support.
Remember that I produce all of the models and instructions myself. I try to make them as detailed and error free as possible, but mistakes happen. I rely on feedback from others to improve and correct any mistakes that I might miss.

Bitter? Yes.
You use THREE units of measurement in your drawings (Check drill sizes). Why you would do that I cannot fathom, and you use them in random ways.

4 weeks an embellishment ?? Let's see here..
V8 kit ordered Nov 5. Arrived December 6th. So actually you're correct, I UNDER estimated THAT one.
I have the Wankel Kit "on the way", ordered 22nd November. heck only knows when that arrives.
It's like they pay extra for the slowest possible postal method.

I'm in Canada, Once the V8 kit arrived in Canada it was 2 days to get to me. So the "other country" card is non admissible.

Right now I an editing the STL file for the rockers because you didn't open up the bottom of the arm for the stud to go through. There are multiple tweaks required to make the thing go together.

Editing and tweaking files is fine though, that's part of the fun. All I'm saying is that once somebody starts earning money from a project it's different, it's time to take ownership.
Once you released drawings which were incorrect you start costing people money.

You are bitching about delivery times during Canada's Postal strike and during the busiest shipping time of year. You would have known it would take a long time. Even Canada post says things are months behind. Don't blame the guy that gave away his design that took him hundreds of hours of work for something you know is out of his control. The hardware kit was produced because people like yourself were too lazy to find the parts themselves and wanted him to supply everything for them because all the work he did already on the model wasn't enough. Oh and you guys also want it for direct from China prices with free overnight delivery. Show some respect for the guy and all the hard work he has done and all the help he gives people.

Also the rockers are supposed to be that way. It needs to be cut later since it acts as support. It is in the assembly video and mentioned other places. It is also strange how you are the only one having such difficulties, are you mentally challenged?

I would suggest you never download any free models again and only make new models yourself so you have someone worth blaming to blame.

hahaha here we go. One of Eric's buddies I assume.
Well, if you had bothered to read past the first comment you would see that the item took 2 days to arrive once it got to Canada. The rest of the delay was due to your beloved USPS coupled with the cheapest ground route option.
i bought the kit because I wanted to put a few bucks in Erics pocket.
Both these points have been covered in this thread already which is funny because now I would draw your attention to your question to me. "Are you mentally challenged?"

The rocker issue has been solved with a little redesign, no biggy, just a little more fun to the mix. I tried trimming Erics rocker arms but the part was just too fragile to get a decent success rate without wrecking it.

Who wanted it free from China? Maybe you're confusing this thread with another one. Oh well, check the tightness of your helmet and chive-on.

Actually I am a fellow Canadian and your attitude makes us look bad. We are known as the nice people of the world. I do not believe that it was USPS but they are probably also busy with it being the holidays. I do know for sure that Canada post is really slow and really far behind. It is currently taking more than 2 weeks to get something shipped from one side of Canada to the other and that is using Canada posts fasted expedited service (they suspended all their on time guarantees).

I am not friends with Eric and in fact I disagree with him on a few things like being able to sell models made from his design. The law says we can not sell his files due to the license but anything we make using said software we can sell. This can be seen by all software written using strictly licensed operating systems like Windows that can still be sold since the license of the software used to create something does not transfer to what is made using said software. When someone sells a finished model they are selling the material and the labour to produce the physical model. ( I don't sell anything because I hate dealing with righteous costumers that expect fast, cheap and perfect when they can only really have two of those. )

"Both these points have been covered in this thread already which is funny because now I would draw your attention to your question to me. "Are you mentally challenged?""

Both what points? You only mentioned a single thing before this statement and it was about the shipping and the strike had not yet been mentioned.

I didn't say you want it for free. Just that you wanted it cheap and fast which is why you bought it from him and didn't self source like I did and many other people that did not have the issues you seem to be having. You seem to be very hateful and want someone to blame for your own inability to build something from a kit like a child does.

As for the rockers, if you could not cut them without breaking then you are clearly having interlayer adhesion issues. You should be able to handle the parts without breaking them.

Have a nice life and please stop making Canadians look bad.

P.S. the question about mentally challenged was not meant as an insult but rather an actual question about your mental state and abilities.

I'm not sure what point you're trying to get across. Or if you're just venting. You continue to say that i don't support or take ownership of my models or hardware kits but how would you know? You decided to put my models and hardware kit on blast before even contacting me for support or problems.
As for shipping, anything shipped out of the US is unjustifiably expensive for some reason unless you ship in volume. Any faster shipping speed than first class would cost almost as much as the kit itself. And the efficiency of the US postal system is a joke, your order spent over three weeks in transit.
As for units of measurements for drill bits, metric drill bits are uncommon. We use fractional drill bits and when those sizes are limited, we use numbered and lettered drill bit sizes. I didn't come up with the measurement system.
If you need support or replacement parts you can email me directly or PM me.

You ask if I have a point, and you question my contention that you need to take ownership of your creation [especially when you are making money off it].
During these brief exchanges of rhetoric, you have neither conceded that there is a glaring error in your measurements [page 42 in this case] or offered even a remote attempt at humility by apologizing.

Quite the contrary, you have assumed some level of high ground and even stoop to questioning my statements about Post times.

Your choice of measurement units, while jumbled, is not in question, the fact that you screwed up values IS. 3.35" (a metric inch is itself a joke) does NOT equal 54mm.

I didn't HAVE to download your files - True. I didn't HAVE to put a few bucks in your pocket by buying hardware from Maker-RX - True. But I did.

You're welcome

I'm trying to help you man, but it seems as though you don't want it. I'm sorry that I made a mistake in the instructions, it happens and it will probably happen in the future. I corrected that error in the instructions and updated them. As well as uploaded the revised rocker arm file. You're still saying that I need to take ownership of my work but you already jumped to the conclusion that I don't or wouldn't in your first post.
With all my models and hardware kits, I quickly correct any errors or problems that others may have.

If you don't want my help or some replacement parts. Or if you are truly unhappy with the hardware kit or model. Send me your paypal address and I will give you a refund for the kit.

You ask if I have a point, and you question my contention that you need to take ownership of your creation [especially when you are making money off it].
During these brief exchanges of rhetoric, you have neither conceded that there is a glaring error in your measurements [page 42 in this case] or offered even a remote attempt at humility bu apologizing.

Quite the contrary, you have assumed some level of high ground and even stoop to questioning my statements about Post times.

Your choice of measurement units, while jumbled, is not in question, the fact that you screwed up values IS. 3.35" (a metric inch is itself a joke) does NOT equal 54mm.

I didn't HAVE to download your files - True. I didn't HAVE to put a few bucks in your pocket by buying hardware from Maker-RX - True. But I did.

You're welcome

Thank you sooooo much for posting these files. I will have so much fun wit these <3


Could you re-upload the "Cam Bearing Surface 1" model? I am looking to print the engine but cannot seem to find that file among the other STLs.

I downloaded this package about 2 years ago, and just realized I printed 5 of "Cam bearing Surface 2" and "Cam bearing surface 3" The old directions didn't call out Cam bearing Surface 1. I'm glad I saw your post so I can update my growing pile of printed parts!!

Comments deleted.

Hey Eric, Big fan of your models. The lS3 was the reason I bought my first printer. After a few test prints the block was my first real print. Question, Would it be possible to get you to post dimensions from the centerline of the crank to the mounting holes on back of the LS3 and the Flathead? I want to laser cut a bracket to bolt directly to the engine. This would be part of an all metal stand for the engines. I have made several of the scale engine stands and they have all failed. Thanks

There are drawings with dimensions in the engine stand instructions for the engine stand plates. I can work on making some drawings of the bell housing flange though.
You've made several of my scaled engine stands and they failed? I have several printed that hole my engines and they've taken a beating and I have yet to have one fail.

Thanks for the reply. I probably didn't have enough infill. I used PLA at 20% infill. Bryan at Boca Bearings had one fail also. I just want to make a metal stand that has a smaller envelope. I have a place to have things laser cut but it's expensive and I have to get it right the first time. I had some plates cut for the scale stand when none were available. They cost me $28 each. I just looked at the latest engine stand download. I never saw the drawings. I was using the old one. I want to make a bigger plate with the holes on the same centers as the bell housing.

Can someone post some instructions or a guide on how to assemble the cams? Including the rockers? I have the rest of the V8 built and I don't really know much about engines (one of the reasons I am doing this, to learn). But I cannot seem to see how to assemble the valves and little pieces with the springs. I have purchased the hardware kit, so I should have everything.

I just finished making more detailed instructions for the LS3. You can find them with the other files. There are some updated parts that I haven't uploaded yet but that shouldn't make a difference.

172 HOURS!!! my gosh am i gonna need an lot of filament

I see two files for the complete block in the file section but they both look the same. I was hoping one would have supports built in relieving us to print with supports created by the slicer, which pushes up the print time from 2 days to over 4.
In the "Old files" zip file I see the block is split into two pieces both with and without supports versions. Can I/we use those two halves with the components not in the zip file?
It's very confusing and given the amount of time and material involved I'd rather get it right the first time :).

The two current files for the block are basically the same. One has a thin first layer of material to prevent your slicer from putting support in certain places. The other file has no supports and is for those who have slicers that are capable of manual support placement.

But for most slicers, printing the file with the “brim” and with supports touching build plate only works best. I should have updated instructions uploaded in the next couple of days.

Thanks Eric.
I'm slowly printing the ancillary parts right now but want to be sure of which block to print.
So the files in the "Old files" zip file are to be totally ignored or can I print that version of the block, in two halves, and then add the ancillaries outside the zip file?

Wow, just Wow. You sir are a master !! I bow down before you.

Any chance a shaft and pully out the front to power water pump, alternator, etc could be added?

No license on it? I have some people that want me to print and build for them. That would be sweet to make a few bucks

Are there any wiring diagrams or installation instructions for the speed controller and DC motor? Majority of questions have been answered reading through comments except this

I will add a visual schematic to the instructions. There is a schematic in the mazda rotary instructions that show you how to wire it up. You just have to ignore the extra parts. And one of the two smaller terminals on the DC jack are the negative terminals, I can never remember which one so I just solder them together. And the motor should rotate clockwise when looking at the crank at the front of the engine. If it rotates the wrong way, reverse the polarity at the motor.

I'm on the same stage of the wiring. Did you figure it out?

yea it's pretty straight forward. I had to order a power supply because for some reason the kit I had didn't include the power supply. No biggie I had a few laying around that would work and even than they're a whole $5 and I'm not gonna get all butt hurt over something so small.

Anyway once I looked up the starter I was able to figure it out. Your starter should signify which lead is positive. I've attached a picture of my speed controller. Notice the 2 negative terminals are soldered together. Biggest problem was figuring out where to mount the controller so it's supported enough but also has the clearance. I had to use a heat gun and patience to form the inside for my controller.

Thank you so much for the extra guidance. Your explanation of the wiring makes much more sense. I thought it was strange to have 2 negative terminals on the barrels, but okay. The photo was also very helpful. Thanks!

Sorry your kit was missing the power supply, i'd like to make it up to you. Please pm me.

Thanks for a quick reply

Cant wait to start printing this. Whats the recommended filament for it? ABS?

PLA would probably be the easiest

you wouldnt happen to have the crankshaft and camshaft as stl? I wish to print the Whole thing instead of assemble

I do not. Besides, you wouldn't be able to install the roller bearings if you printed it in one piece

The m3 x 6mm hex screws on the parts list. What style head did you use for these? Should they all be the SHCS style?

the m3 x 6mm hex screws are hex head screws. but you can use SHCS if you want.

It just cranks and cranks and wont start?Just like my last chevy? lmao. jk but Seriously tho. Very cool model!

HI! Im printing the engine. Question about electronics, i want to buy from makerx page but it doesnt seem to ship to argentina. Any other way to get the parts?

I added a link for international shipping in the summary.

Hello @all,
I want to built a motor, too.
But it is not very clear how to print the motor block. I both files (EngineBlock-2-_Scaled and EngineBlock-_Scaled) there are no supports for the overhanging parts included (I switched in Ultimaker Cura to the plane view and cant see any supports).
Please, can somebody describe how I must print the motor block (printer Anet A8). I use Ultimaker Cura 3.2.1 (resp. 3.4.1). Are there any special setting for the supports in Cura?
For my Anet A8 I use
0.2 mm @ 0.4 nozzle
40 mm/s printing speed
80 mm/s moving speed
70°C bed temp
195 °C nozzle/hot end temp

Print with support touching build plate. It all depends on your printer but if your A8 is set up properly with a part cooling fan then you should be able to have the support over hang angle at 80 degrees. Those settings are fine, although a little slow.
The engine block files are the same model. One model just has an initial layer that prevents support material from being generated in certain spots where it's not necessary. The other model is for if you're using a slicer where you can manual add/delete supports.

I have the same problem here

can you make a torque converter model that can function like the real thing

Making this and was wondering if theres a play by play for the build. I have most of it figured out just with basic knowledge and PDF's but wondering about a few things. Like there are instructions for 1mm magnets but my kit only came with 2x4mm

When I first uploaded this engine, it used 3x1mm disc magnets for the valley plate. But handling the 3mm magnets is a pain. I have since updated the STLs. So now the valley plate uses 4 4x2mm disc magnets. I guess I didn't update one of the PDFs though.

for fun could this model be cut down to a V-twin engine?

Getting ready to print this on my Maker Select V2 with a 200mm x 200mm bed. I cannot seem to get the oil pan to fit in the printable area in Cura, even though the block fits without issue. Anyone else run into this?

i am currently printing this amazing engine but i have a question. is'nt there a crancshaft pulley?i think it should really finisch it.

Started printing engine block. 100+ hours on Anet A8, 0.2mm layer @45mm/s.
What a hell of a project, my best congrats to you for designing and releasing this to us!

May I have some infos about a full or partial hardware kit? I live in italy, so I have to take in account shipping, customs and so on.


Since you are printing on Anet A8 too, are you able to answer AlBundy1's Question at the top about the supportsettings in cura,
related to the engine block?
Would really help me out and i think AlBundy1 too :)

Shoot me an email at harrell.eric@gmail.com. The LS3 kit would be $86 + $25 shipping (USD).

What % of support did you use? and what pattern? I want to do the same as you did, so I know my part comes out perfectly, especially since they are so big and take so much time. I would hate to waste it all due to bad supports, etc

Standard pattern, 1 solid base layer, 1.5mm Extra Inflation Distance, 40% support density, brim with 10 perimeters. I also manually bring the nozzle closer to the bed than the initial later thickness so that the first layer squished down for better adhesion. But not so squished that the nozzle drags of gets caught on it.

I am having a problem with how the rocker arm attaches. How do they mount with only an opening in the top?

On the underside of the rocker arm, there should be to small gaps. Remove the material between them and file the surfaces flat. It should fit over the rocker rail loosely

Thank you, that makes sense.

Those are the original headers from a long time ago. A new design was uploaded.

Im having trouble putting my engine together. The screw to connect the piston the connecting rod doesnt go through the hole. I have to widen the hole to get the screw through, but the piston head fits perfectly in the block. Please help. Im using the kit from the website.

You have to drill out the holes. Holes that small normally print smaller on most printers.

Any update on the engine stand? or at least the dimensions so I can make one?

Thanks again for the model.

Look at my other things. all the files and parts are listed.

Comments deleted.

Hi I wanted to know do you have to print the engine block with support does it matter ?

Yes. I used the "Engine Block 2 Scaled" file and printed it with supports touching build plate only and it worked perfectly. Took about 3 and a half days.

which support settings did you use? support angle, placement etc.

Quick question. Do we just print the same cylinder head twice? I noticed they are almost symmetrical but not exactly. There is one screw hole that is different on one side. Do we print the second one mirrored or something?


There should only be on cylinder head. They are the same for either side.

I must be missing something. Which engine block file is the one with build in supports? I thought it was "engine block 2" but when I load that into Cura or Slic3r, I see just a brim type thing, but no built in supports. What am I missing?

great design, BTW! Thanks!

You need to print engine block 2 with support touching build plate. The first layer "Brim Thing" you see it to prevent the slicer from putting support where it's not needed. If the brim wasn't there Cura adds all kinds of supports that just become a pain to print.

That makes total sense. Thanks!

you forgot to put oil in it....

What did you use to ream the Cam bearing holes in the block to 21mm?

A rolled up full sheet of 220 grit sand paper

Is the engine stand for sale yet?

I'm looking for the right steel ball bearings (used in the lifters), does anyone have the
exact dimensions. Does anyone have these?


Where do the balls go?
I don’t see any explanation anywhere.
Is there a pdf re lifter assembling?

I just got my kit, and they are 1/4 inch steel balls.

and the carburetor is from someone to this engine?

there is no carburetor on a fuel injected engine

Is it possible to Simplify3D or in some other program to divide the finished stl object into two or three parts so that you can then glue them together and then some objects are great for printing, thank you in advance.

you can use plane cut in Meshmixer

What files have changed?

Any chance you could make bell housings to adapt all of your motors to your transmission?

Comments deleted.

ispossible take the non printabl parts from to europe?

I'm building one of these for my best friend, leaving it as a kit for him to assemble, as he is a car mechanic, and I'm sure he'll enjoy putting it together :-) I'm going to assemble the crankshaft and camshaft before I hand it over, and do most of the M3 tapping that is needed.
Just wondered if anyone has done a carb to fit this? Failing that, can anyone point me to any pictures/drawings of the carb that is supposed to go on this motor? Being in the UK, we don't see many of these engines, so I haven't seen them in detail!

And many thanks for your work, ericthepoolboy!

There is a 1/12 scale version of this engine on Thingiverse. Select the following files.
Throttle_body_for_air_filter.stl (scale to 200)
LS3_motor_throttle_body_valve.stl (scale to 210) I think. May have to play with it. 200 isn't big enough
KN_airfilter.stl (scale to 200)
For some reason I can't post the files

Thanks, I'll grab those :-)

No carburetor on this engine. It would have a throttle body, fuel injected.

Yes, thanks. someone else also pointed this out to me :-) I should have realised, we're not in the 1970's anymore, LOL


As you can see from the design, this is a modern version of the LS3 with and EFI plenum. If you want an old school with a down draft carb, you'll need a different intake manifold and different valley plate from what Eric has.

Perhaps you're looking for the throttle body and air filter that go on the front of the intake plenum? Here are two that I think will work, but you'll need to simplify the TB to get it to print well. You can also Google "chevy LS3 throttle body" and you'll get a lot of images of the TB and it's associated solenoid and gear housing.


If you're looking for stls on old school down draft manifold and carb, maybe someone else can help, I couldn't find any. I just did a Google search of Chevy LS carburetor and tons of images come up.

I know that's not much help, but maybe it get's you more info than you had...

Thanks for the links and info. Of course, I'd forgotten it was a modern engine and would be fuel injected! I'll probably model the throttle body and air filter that you pointed out, thanks.
I lived in the US for a few years ('75 to '78) and I remember seeing the downdraft intake manifold for a pair of Holley(sp?) 4 barrel carbs. Didn't understand much about engines back then But they sure were impressive :-)

what parts do i need that aren't printable?

They are in the BOM that Eric has attached to the files. All are available via Chinese web stores, but if you want to make it easy on yourself, order a kit from Eric's partner https://www.makerrx.com/products/mrx1

I ordered two kits from them and they are about the same price as buying them yourself (maybe even a bit cheaper considering shipping).

I made the 1/12 scale version and redesigned it to use 623 bearings and 1.5mm bolts. see video here.


You're a maniac! That is cool! The parts are so small on Eric's version that I can barely assemble it - I can't imagine them smaller. Nice job.

For others reading through looking for tips - I used my soldering iron with a flat iron tip (I think it's meant for woodworking) and used the heated flat iron to "cut" through the material of the rocker arm. Then I used an xacto knife to cut the melted material + remaining "support" plastic away.

Here's the xacto knife I used - http://cdn.dick-blick.com/items/574/12/57412-1005-1-2ww-m.jpg

The bronze tip on the bottom left that looks like a flat iron is the tip I used on the soldering iron to "cut" a slot out of the material, made the xacto knife's work a lot easier and I didn't bust any rocker arms: https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1wIb2QFXXXXX.XpXXq6xXFXXXz/24pcs-font-b-Woodburning-b-font-Pyrogarphy-Tool-Set-Electric-Soldering-Iron-font-b-Pen-b.jpg

Are there any additional instructions anywhere? I see the PDFs in the files section, but I'm not finding any instructions on how to assemble the hardware for the heads... or the lifters... etc? I'm also confused about the valve stems - the hardward PDF file says to smooth top of threads to a rounded point but the only pictures I can find of the rockers assembled in the head shows the spring keeper with an m3 nut in it. Is the spring keeper screwed into the valve stem or is the nut just used to hold the valve stem in place?

The m3 nut is screwed onto the valve stem. The rounded end of the screw should protrude past the nut and the rocker arm should push on it once assembled.

Hello ericthepoolboy,
I have most of the engine printed and it has gone well. But I did run into a problem today with the timing belt gears. The Crank gear and the Cam gear are the problems. It prints the body of the gears but not the teeth. Maybe I have corrupted files or I have something set wrong. If you have any ideas, please let me know.

Try slicing with cura. Or try changing your nozzle setting size to .35mm. Use repitier or simplyfy3d to view the tool path before you print.

Sorry for posting it here and in the support group, but my camshaft appears to be too short for the engine block yet I printed everything at the normal scale? Do the parts have to be printed at different scales than 100%? Really wish there were more thorough assembly instructions.


It looks like your Z axis is off. You might need to calibrate your Z axis or it could be a problem with your initial layer. Remember that your printer prints at X layer height so that could mean that your part could be off +/- .1mm or more. If your initial layer height isn't proper then your print could be off another -.1mm or more. So add up all those errors over 28 parts and you can have a cam shaft that's 5mm too short. If you can't get the height of each part right you can try printing the cam parts on a raft. The final height of each part should be higher than the required length and you can just file off the excess. An easy way to check your Z axis is to use your slicer to check the z axis print height and compare that to the final part. See what your slicer says the engine block height should be and measure.

I also noticed my hardware kit is missing the 24mm shcs and the pushrod 3mm rods (mentioned previously in a different comment)

The 24mm SHCS are cut down from the 25mm. The 3mm x 65mm rods are cut down from the 3mm x 200mm rods that I need to send you.

Sorry - I see that now in the PDF file -- that's what I get for viewing on my cell phone and not seeing the right hand column. My bad! I stayed up until 3am working on the bottom end and have the rotating crank and piston assembly together. :) :) Now just have to clearance out the cam bearing journals so I can slide the cam in.

Thank you sir -- I re-printed with raft and the camshaft is now the proper length. https://goo.gl/photos/Ve51gQZuK8FmCr8f7

Also, all dimension in the drawings are in inches.

How can I get one???? Must have for the shop!!!

Is there a parts list ? I prefer to source out my own non printed parts as I am not in the USA and shipping and $ exchange rates are to expensive .
Please provide , thanks

Look in the list of files... There is already one included.

Sorry I missed seeing them , my bad , thank you.

Can you use magnets 1/4 diameter by 1/16 thick?

One quick note about the piston connecting rod bearing caps - the STL is in the wrong orientation.

They are in the orientation that I printed them in.

If you print the engine block in halves, do you glue them together when you are done? I'm wondering how you intended to attach them.
I was going to print this as a whole engine block but wanted the layers to match with cylinders. Thanks

I would flat sand both haves and superglue them together

Comments deleted.

Hi I'm trying to assemble my model but it looks like the new file for crankshaft #7 is missing the number, the timing marks, and the relief for the shcs head. Will there be an update for the model or should i just drill out the shcs relief and move on?

first of all, great work again, nicely done!

second quesiton, am I the only one with a problem with the rocker arm? there seems to be a hole missing in the bottom.. i can insert the pin but the hole in the bottom is missing..

Remove the material between the vertical slots using a razor blade or flat head etc. File the surface smooth and test fit it to the rocker rail

Has anyone printed this on an SLA printer? I have both an Ultimaker 2+ as well as a FormLabs Form 2. Obviously the Form 2 gives much better results for finish, detail, etc., but the bed is not large enough. I printed the block from their clear material at 40% scale, and it looks amazing. But that's not going to work... no hardware, bearing options etc.

I really wanted a clear block, so I'm printing the full block in clear polycarbonate on the ultimaker at 53.33% scale. That way I can use M1.6 hardware. If you choose to do this, the 6701 crank bearings will not work. You'll need to use R168ZZ bearings instead.

EDIT: I should add that I really appreciate the work that went in to modeling this. Thank you for putting in the work and posting it for everyone to use!

Is there anyway the hardware kit can be shiped to australia

I see there is a stand hardware kit up now. https://www.makerrx.com/collections/projectkits/products/mrx4. Also i am printing this stand for now. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2343042

3D Printed Rotating LS3 Engine Display Stand

I have the latest files and Crankshaft_7_Scaled will not slice with Slic3r properly. It starts at layer 8.65.

Can someone slice Crankshaft_7_Scaled.stl? Slic3r Prusa edition does not slice as the object has errors. Also Netfab wont repair the stl to reimport to Slic3r. I am stuck at the moment because i can get this one stl to slice.

Try the new file. I have no idea why it has errors. Netfabb says it still has errors and it crashes Simplify3D. But it doesn't have an error in Cura or Repetier.

Okay that one almost works. The issue with that one is that it has a blank layers at 6.05, 6.25, and 6.45. On that note i was able to import the original STL into Meshmixer and make it a solid then export to and STL. It then sliced no problem with Slic3r. I can send you that file if you like.

Hey ericthepoolboy i'm wondering what type of M3 threaded inserts were used for the LS3 engine. e.g. the height of the insert.

Any potential issues printing this with a 0.6mm nozzle with 0.6mm layer width? I'll keep the layer height at 0.2mm.

And Eric, is there any chance you could add a COLOUR column to the printed part list please? Just so that we can print it in exactly the same colours as you have in the pics.


You can see all the different colors from the assembly video. The main visible parts are
Valve cover - Red
Heads - Silver
Block - light grey
Timing cover - silver
Oil pan, headers, intake - Black

I started playing around with different colors for the cam, valves, and rockers to distinguish intake and exhuast.

What might be nice would be something that indicates what items should be the same color, or if you want it to be instructional what you should have as different colors. I've spent a lot of time turning wrenches so what you said about different colors for cam, valves, and rockers makes sense, but for someone who this may be the closest they've ever gotten to building an engine they might not know that relationship.

I've started putting together an excel sheet to help with keeping track of what colors should go on what parts (for my own print) and might add a drop down option so you can choose which "style" you'd like. Maybe different color schemes?

Also, I got my hardware kit in the mail the other day. WAY ABOVE EXPECTATIONS. I've ordered similar kits before and usually it's just a bubble wrap bag full of smaller bags with a BOM. Shipping it with the plastic case is a small but extremely helpful touch.

Dosent look like it, just printing mine now 0.6mm knozell at 0.2mm laer and looks good ; )

How much filament does this use?

We are interested in a stand as well! Your model is REALLY REALLY cool too!

Has anyone successfully scaled this on a LulzBot Mini? Print bed is 152x152x158 and it hadnt even occurred to me to keep the dimensions in-tact , as in Cura I've just been clicking "Max" to resize it to the bed....(which Im guessing means valves, cams etc will not work...)

So, support or no support on the intake?

I am having problems with the Intake Manifold, it crashes the printer at the same spot, every time. Anyone know if there is another model of it or what I might do to rectify this?

The crank assembly PDF is sort of confusing, maybe listing the part numbers as the same as the item number.

FWIW, I tried something which, if it works, makes building up the crank and cam a little simpler.

Using the crank as an example, after printing the parts in PLA I built it up dry, getting all the marks lined up and the screws well tightened. At this point I measured all the spacings then trial-mounted and rotated it in the block so I could find and eliminate runout and interferences. Then, without taking it apart, I "solvent welded" it by "injecting" MEK with a hypodermic glue applicator at each spot where component faces joined.

I can hear the screams - acetone and MEK work on ABS, not PLA you dummy! But it does work... sorta. If you apply one of them to PLA and clamp the parts the resulting joint is pretty strong. The $64 question is, as I used it did enough MEK make it into the joints to do a good job? I dunno. At the moment, the whole bottom end is assembled, the "starter motor" is turning the flywheel, the cam is in place and the crank is driving the cam. Everything works and nothing has slipped. However, there's no valve train load on the cam yet so I guess we'll see.

If anyone is interested I'll report back once the heads are built and working.

For those who are dying for a stand, the downsized LS3 published by Novel_Mutations http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1996991 includes one. It's way simple and nowhere near as cool as ETPB's rotating stand but scaled up to 200% and printed it holds your engine up off the table. Avoid teaching your family New Words by gluing it together.

Smaller LS3 V8 Engine - Working Model

I'm sure this has been asked what size printer bed will this fit on? I have a Anet A8

It will all fit on the A8, thats what I am printing it on.

1: How many spools of filament did it use
2: can this be printed on Anet a8
3: approximately how many hours is the print time

hello please read as all the info you asked is in the description.

Eric, do you plan on releasing the engine stand?

The flathead and the rotary were at a tie last week so I decided to do the flat head. Next, the rotary.


Hello Eric, Thanks again for all your hard work. I am just curious if you have made any progress on the flathead or rotary since posting this picture back in March.

Flathead and rotary are done. Just need to finish instructions and kits at this point. Hoping a week for the flathead and three for the rotary.

That is awesome to hear.

Have you ever considered doing a marine engine like a volvo penta GXi 5.7 (V8) or a similar mercery. It would be awesome with a matching shield and driver side! Btw love your work!

almost done with your first one and its awesome. Cant wait to get this one done!

Very nice. Since it's a flathead it may be a good project for lost PLA casting and making an actual working engine.

will you ever release the files for the engine stand?

Any one else having issue slicing the Exhaust headers? I am getting a few chamber that seem to be solid filled. Also the walls of the headers only seem to slice if i set the layer height to .15 instead of the standard .2 for all other parts.

Just for awareness i finally got around to this again. The files i had were old. The latest code package slices and print fine. 10 hours in on the engine block right now but all other parts are printed and ready for assembly.

Make sure you have the most recent files. The old ones had problems printing.

Didn't have a problem printed them at 0.2 using S3D.

I just printed the headers and didn't have an issue. I also could have gotten lucky haha.

hmm you didnt see any issues in slicing them? What slicer did you use?

Cura. 2.3.1 on my ultimaker 2.

Eric, Where do you buy the springs from? I'm creating my own 4-cylinder engine based on General Motors 2.5 liter (151 cid) engine used in most FWD cars made in 1980s. The size of the springs that I need are 7/32" diameter and 11/16" length. The ones from Harbor Freight are too strong.

All the springs are custom made as I was unable to find any that would work properly.

How do you make your own springs?

on a lathe with a mandrel (metal rod) and a custom guide. You can do it on a drill press too, it just takes some trial and error to get a spring that's the right size. You can find youtube videos of how to do it.

I'm printing the engine block now and I'm so stoked to get it put together and I'm not even close too having all parts done.

I need a bigger printer! This model is awesome. Looking forward to building one down the road with I have resources up to the task.

any chance for a S70B56?? :)

rocker_arm_pin_scaled.stl is dropping on teh build plate in S3D with a dimension of X:158.06 Y:158.06 Z:225.81mm for some reason. All other thus far have been fine.

What are the dimensions of the pin so I can scale it back down and print it out?


Planning on using this for a school project, contact me at tmanchu2002@gmail.com as I have some important questions

Will this work in my G-Wiz?

Any chance I could get these files as .sldprt files rather than .stl? It would be greatly appreciated.

HA! That would allow people to tweak his work and pass it off as their own. My friend deals in custom car parts and he gets asked for the .DXF all the time

Come on guys vote 2jz!

Please help me decide which engine to do next..
I'm leaning towards the Porsche Four cam, but would like to get some input.
Keep in mind that the inline 6 cylinders will most likely
not be able to be printed in one piece on most printers.


Personally, the Harley or Ford would be great. Where does one come across the blueprints to model something like this? I would love to model some engines in Solidworks.

Pretty awesome ! Love it, will be my first print on my printer im ordering month end which is next week heheheh !! thumbs up x10000

is it the same scale as the other engines?

how much filament does this model use?

I was wondering if anyone else was having issues with the cam gear and the crankshaft gear alignment? I've assembled the crankshaft and the camshaft per the assembly instructions, but when installed into the block the cam gear is much further out of the block than the crank gear.

Both first bearing journals (closest to the timing cover) are essentially in the same plane in the block, but the distance from the timing gears to the first bearing on the crank and the cam are very different.

Are all the cam lobes lined up with their corresponding lifter holes? That's the most important. Make sure to check your dimensions of the assembled camshaft also.

Yep, measurements are good, sighted down the lifter holes and the corresponding lobes are below. The gear on the camshaft sits about a quarter inch further out from the first bearing than the crank gear does.

Let me see if I can put the pictures somewhere I can link them.


Looking straight down, camshaft is in alignment with lifter bores.

After reprinting and rebuilding the camshaft for the third time and meticulously measuring the distances, the only solution I found was to grind down he surfaces between the cam gear and the "cam bearing surface 2". Now the cam gear is in alignment and so are the cam lobes.

Am i missing something? How does the valve covers attach to the heads? I see holes for magnets on the valve covers, but nothing on the heads. Anyone else run into this issue?

No magnets on the valve covers, just four SHCS that locate it on top of the head. It's just held on by gravity. The 4 screws just keep it centered on the head, nothing more.

Any plans to do more parts for this motor like you have the Toyota? Tranny, Drive line, rear end stuff like that.... also if you get bored would love to see a 6.6 Duramax

Here is the Air Intake I printed with Cura added supports. I think the Filament was bad as it performed very poorly. I switched to different filament for the engine block and that came out great.

Is everyone else printing the air intake with support like I did. I tried without support but the Flange where air filter bolts to wouldnt print correctly due to the large overhang. So I added supports with Cura and it came out as shown.

Printed at .2 layer height.

Any one have better success wit hair intake? Please share any helpful info and or settings that I can adjust to get a better result.

Looks good to me. I'll mess around with the intake and put support under the small section where the throttle body mounts. When I print it, I just let it print in mid air in that section and then just trim it off when it's done.

what kind of filaments are you using for the parts

The Black Filament used for the Air Intake was Straight from ultimaker PLA. It didn't seem to work well at all. I will get new Black PLA and see if next print is better.

I Printed the Engine block with Eric's Built in supports, layer at .2, 20% Infill Grid, print speee 60 mmm/s, Cooling Fan at 55% after 3 layer. It took approx 80 hours. There was a little stringing on the sides where parts overhang 90 deg. I think turning the fan to 100% would help with this and cool the material coming out faster preventing less droop and stringing. Other than that, it look absolutely amazing. Thanks for posting and supporting this Eric.

Can you contact me on how much this would cost, I dont have a printer.

Possibly about $12.00 in ABS Fillament but at least two weeks of printing and maybe 10 hours assembly plus extras. Some where between $200.00 - $500.00 Cheers Jace

About $60 from JUST the filament. hundreds from online printers.

Can you contact me on how much this would cost, I dont have a printer.

Printing the second cylinder head now, planning on printing the engine block over the weekend. The detail is fantastic. I printed the heads at .1mm layer height, but am going to shift over to .2mm layer for the block. Cura estimated a little over 2 days.

I want this. I don't have a printer. Can you contact me with a price on a complete package. All the pieces and parts.

Aawsum thank you for another great engine model eric. I have printed the 22re for myself. And i am also printing the camaro for a friend. I have 2 suggestions for you for engines for this year thats if you are up for it. Toyota lexus v8 and a toyota 7mge that would be nice

One thing is for sure.... The HARDWARE KITS Eric sells are absolutely worth it. Well beyond my expectations. I was looking on Amazon for magnets, an to my surprise, those where included also. I paid the money and got the DC Motor, Speed Control and power supply. Worth every penny. The kits come in a nice little hard case. All parts are in small baggies and labeled including magnets, push rods, springs, and bearings. Im stoked on the attention to detail. I imagine the parts could be found cheaper, but having a complete set up as finally packaged as the ones from Eric seem to be worth every penny and certainly worth no having the worries of not getting something right on your own. Way to go Eric, I was not expecting these to be so sweet. I can only imagine what the stands will be like when they arrive :) Thanks again.

Pics of Parts Kits exactly as it arrived from Eric

photo IMG_6303_zpskwrutbnl.jpgphoto IMG_6304_zpsbxfpickh.jpgphoto IMG_6306_zpslnqmp8wu.jpg

Guess there's been some cost cutting since February, mine came in a USPS box and I don't have multiple threaded rods, just one rod about 198-200mm long.

Certain rods and fasteners need to be cut to length. There should be 6 3mm rods in the kit. If you are missing them, I will send them out this week.

Hi Eric - yes please, I only had one really long rod. I paid via paypal, 3D Prints by Meissenation.

Looking great!! Already planned on getting this kit from eric when all print work is done, now i'm certain of it!

For my first one, I did the McMaster thing, and you end up with tons of extra this and that. OK if you're going to build a bunch of them over time, or you just so happen to like M3 screws and nuts. So yah, the hardware kit is well worth it.

Can I buy the whole kit from you if I don't have a 3d printer?

I had asked Eric if it would be ok if I produce printed parts kits for this. Last we left it was for me to actually print a set and figure out my costs and asking price.

I believe Eric has plans of his own to build a print farm to be able to print these, but he can speak to that himself.

If there's interest, you should send Eric a message. If there's tons more than he's willing to do on his own, I can jump in and provide kits of printed parts. I have a rack of printers, so each kit takes about as long as the longest part to print, which is roughly 3 days.

does anybody know how long to cut the push rods?

The length of the push rods depends on so many different factors. the best way to figure out the length is to cut one to the length stated in the parts list and install it. Making sure that the cam timing is perfect and that there is no binding anywhere else. If the the head lifts while rotating the motor then the push rod is too long. Shorten it in half mm increments.

Think you could make a powerstroke?

Hi Eric,

Do you post the hardware kits internationally? I live in NSW Australia

Yes, shipping internationally would be $25 for one complete kit.

Hi Eric,
I have the monoprice clone of the Prusa I3 printer that you specified in the print settings. After Cura slices either the engine blocks with and without supports the estimated time is 5 days and 9 hours. How did you get your printer to do it in 72 hours? And did it print better with or without supports?

I printed the engine block 20% fill on a MakerGear M2 in 28 hours in solutech silver pla (Amazon). It looks incredible. This is the file with supports, I did not add any supports, but if printing again, I would manually add supports only under the large outside horizontal ribs (4 plcs) and in the center of the camshaft bore ends (2plcs). Everything else printed perfectly. This is far and away the most incredible thing that has ever come off my printer. Thank you for sharing.

What are your speed and infill settings?

60mm/s and 50% infill

cut it down to %20 infill. I printed the engine block at 50mm/s, 20% infill.

I am getting a estimated build time of 6 days. Using Cura Ultimaker 2+ .4 nozzle.

I have support set at 63 deg overhang, zig zag, density at 15%.

Print speed is 60mm/s, infill density 20%, layer height .1mm

We need to print with support right?

Any tips or reasons why mine is 6 days or how to get it done in less time?

print stl file with built in support. No added supports unless you can add them manually with your slicer.
Layer height of .2mm should be sufficient.

with or without supports?

I would print the STL that has built in supports for the mains only.

I love this design! Estoy fabricando todas las partes del motor para luego montarlo. Se tarda bastante en hacerlo pero es impresionante el diseño y los detalles. He fabricado también un soporte en acero para sostenerlo. Buen aporte. Un saludo

How do you guys print the piston heads? Do you print it upside down with top down onto print bed? If so, do you use supports? I was going to do this but thought support would take away smooth finish where the recess is in top of head? Any tips or pics how you print and support settings would be appreciated.

i printed mine just as is in the STL file, with the face that mates with the block down. This side needs to be very smooth to mate with the block properly.

Hi Eric,
Thanks for the response. However the drivers side valve cover is still to small. The passengers side seems as though it is the correct size but the other is not. Am I the only one who has this issue? if you load both valve covers the drivers side is not the right size. Please let me know

Try the newest files. No idea why the old ones were scaled like that.

ok I took the parts and dragged them onto my Z18 build plate and the size of the engine block and the heads look ok. But the passenger and drivers valve covers are completely different sizes. Is anyone noticing this also?

Ok I really need someone's help. I am 20 hours into a 48 hour engine print and this engine does not look the correct size. I have already printed out the drivers and passengers side valve covers and one is much larger that the other. Can someone send me some updated files, as I really feel something is wrong. Please help.

The valve cover files are updated as of yesterday. Not sure how the old file got resized.

Hi Eric ,

I would be interested in the engine stand if you decide to make them. Also i cant thank you enough for this model and the hardware kit was a great investment .

I would also like a stand, or the plans to build one would be good too

I just printed out both the Drivers side and Passengers side valve covers; however the one side (Drivers side) is much smaller than the other side. I didn't change the files I just printed them as they were. I'd Appreciate any help. Thanks

There was an old file for the valve cover that never got deleted, not sure why it's a different size though. Download the most current files.

I remember the old Revel visible V8 kit, that thing was great! now i can print this with the heads and block made from clear ABS and give it an acetone bath maybe? VERY cool project. I will look forward to printing this model and making it later when i'm more experienced.

so where is the video?

click on the second picture

I'm having trouble printing the valve covers. no matter what slicer I use, I always come up with square holes in the cover right above the bottom lip. Has anyone had a similar problem? One of the covers has three holes and the other comes up with one in the center.

I had a similar issue when printing my smaller scale version. I made that wall a little thicker in my remix http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1996991 . If you use them just be sure to scale them 200% since mine is half scale.

Smaller LS3 V8 Engine - Working Model

I sent Eric an email, and while eagerly awaiting a response, I'll scale up your remix and see how it goes. Thanks, Novel!

Updated with a thicker wall. The old one slices fine for me in cura, with a .4mm nozzle setting


I was having the same problem with the valve covers (even with Cura and .4mm settings). Anyway, thank you for uploading the passenger side it looks like it will work! However, I get three holes on the drivers side, can you update and upload that file? I appreciate all the hard work, you have made some unbelievable models here. It has inspired me to do one of my own.... I will upload to Thingiverse when I'm complete, I really understand now the time it has taken you. I have completed a design on an engine stand, when I get the build complete I will upload the design and pictures.

Would it be possible for you to upload the step files? Using this for a school project, thanks.

I formed a support group for anybody that has questions about printing and assembling my engines.

Update the exhaust manifolds/headers. Should print better than the old ones.

I can confirm they print well Eric. Thank you for repairing the files.


Could you upload them? The latest exhaust headers are marked as being updated November 23, 2016

Updated, I guess i forgot to save when I uploaded them.

Comments deleted.

Hi all ,

 If you plan on printing and building this project i highly suggest buying the hardware kit from Eric .

This kit has every nut , bolt and screw you will need , i had him include in my kit the motor , control board and power supply .
This is well worth every penny , everything is bagged and tagged , first class all the way. Just waiting on filament for the block.

Thank You , Eric

can anybody point me to where to get the 3mm wide timing belt? I just assumed it was the same as the belt I had leftover from the subaru engine. It is not.

Aliexpress has most things

Happy new year everybody :P

Here's a pic of my latest print. Oh yeah, it failed. Again.

And it's stuck to the print bed. Again.

Luckily i now can replace the bed in about 5 minutes, so the glass bed is in the freezer now. (gotta be carefull with that one to get it off later.)

I've got my other laptop here now so i hope that will allow me to use S3D to run the printer.

How do you add the pictures in the post? I want to share too :)

exclamation mark, [smile] and then the url of the jpg within ()

What is the minimum bed size to print this? Will a lulzbot mini do it?

Some parts, like the engine block, are big. 161x182x112mm. So that won't go in your printer.

You could of course, like some others have done, scale it down so it fits, and make it a static model. Check the remixes some have made. There's also a working model that's scaled down :)

Comments deleted.


This just happened.


Could not get my print off. Have taken out my bed and it's in the fridge now, hoping that will help to get it loose. At least now i can also install my glass bed, which i had since i bought the printer just never felt like installing it.

It looks really good though :p

Had it in the freezer for a couple of hours, still had to use a couple of pretty hard whacks with a hammer to free it from the printbed O.O I was afraid to break it but it's rock solid :D

It came out pretty well, have a look for yourself:

In some pics it looks kind of warped but it is not. Just an effect from the close up i guess. I printed this on a XYZ Da Vinci Pro 1.0, with Real Filaments Satin Silver PLA on .2 with 20% infill on 210 degrees celsius and bed on 60.

@ericthepoolboy, any suggestions for the clean up?

Looks Great, I Just finished my Cylinder heads too!

I got tired of larger prints sticking to the bed, so on advice I found from another build on this site, I forked out ~$10 for a Japanese Spatula (actually, this one from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WG14FC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

It works wonders... catch an edge, twist, and Pop! off it comes. Best part is that the spatula doesn't mar the board surface, which you risk with larger tools (like chisels).

One of those is an absolute necessity. They work great when printing on any surface. They can also be found under "3D Print Removal Tool" on amazon. I also use a small drywall taping knife for larger prints. I print with a brim and just give it a good smack on one of the corners.

I use a set of small wood carving chisels. They have a nice sharp tip and they have many different contours so you can get into just about anywhere. I use a small hot air blower set to about 190 C to hit the surface after wards to make the surface color uniform.

I want to buy one!!!!!
(don't have a 3-D printer)
i also want to buy all the other things you've designed!
Keep it up!!!

Crazy!! Thaks for sharing this amazing project!

This is awesome! Definitely will be getting one....can or would you do other motors? Like possibly an h22a4?

This is awesome! Definitely will be getting one....can or would you do other motors? Like possibly an h22a4?

you are simply a myth !!!! compliments

you are simply a myth !!!! compliments

you are simply a myth !!!! compliments

you are simply a myth !!!! compliments

you are simply a myth !!!! compliments

you are simply a myth !!!! compliments

you are simply a myth !!!! compliments

Comments deleted.

Ericthepoolboy is a crazy guy !

What an amazing Project

terrible, i must print it..................

Now... this just ain't funny.....

Gotta print some other project now for a friend first then back to the engine parts.

For those who don't have holes in some of the prints, check if you've got something like "merge all outlines into a single solid model' option on. This has to be disabled.

Besides that, i'm having my printer run 24/7 haha, now printing the engine block (with supports) on 0,2, 20% infill. Installed a fresh printhead for the job as i've printed a lot of bronze/copper/alu filaments with my old one, wanted to be sure to get the best results. I'm using REAL PLA SATIN SILVER for the 'aluminium' engine parts. The engine block is about 1/5th done, looks really nice with this filament, so i might be doing the valve covers en rocker arms and pins again in the same filament. It seems to be a bit smoother then the ABS/PLA's i've used so far so this might cut down on post processing time, but most importantly, it looks awesome :)

I just made this picture and it has warped :( Now i'm in doubt whether i should continue or cancel the print.
Links to larger images:

As it's the underside of the block, and backside of the engine, i think it'll work out. The only thing that needs to be attached to the bottom would be the oil pan.

Well i guess it doesn't matter anymore now :(

had to cancel the print and take it out...

That silver looks awesome. Do you know of a supplier that ships to the states?

Yea it looks realy nice, i can make some more pics of it if you'd like?

Their website is www.real-filament.com

It's a dutch company, not sure if they have dealers in the US but it's nearly 2017 so everything should be possible right? :)

i think you can order it right here:

(Same company that makes the filament!)

Well dont give up , just keep in mind how much work Eric invested.I am having just as much enjoyment printing this as i am building my LS3 427 stroker

Give up?? NEVERRR!!! ;) I started printing the cylinder heads now, waiting for more filament to come in :) Wasn't sure there was enough left on the reel.

Thanks for all the great models. I am printing this now and I have found that the exhaust headers have some issues. From what I can see the walls of the parts that are thin walled are less than 0.5mm thick (can't print at full scale never mind smaller). Also parts of the headers are solids not thin walled. Thanks again for the amazing models.

EDIT: Also I just noticed that the intake is not sitting flat on the build surface. It looks to be tilted at 1.3 degrees (front is up).
EDIT 2: Now that I am printing the final parts I keep running into issues. The current issue is the rockers do not have a hole in the bottom to allow the bolt to go into the rocker rail. You also mention removing support from them but there does not appear to be any built in support and until there is a hole in the bottom I can not see them needing support.

Yes exactly. Left exhaust header has 2 pipes solid, right does have one solid pipe. Repairing in netfabb didn't help.

Intake manifold has been repaired already, re-download the repaired version unless you can lay-flat it.

Rocker arms doesn't have the hole, which I just realised after printing all 16 (17) of them :) And yes, even I was wondering why should I use support as mentioned in pdf. :)

You can see what it's supposed to look like. Here is the underside of an actual rocker arm.

Access forbiden.

The support material for the rocker arms needs to be removed with a razor blade to separate the layers. On the underside of the rocker you'll see two narrow slots. Remove the material between. There should be a square hole. The exhuast manifolds print fine in Cura. I'll look at them later and see about modifying them.


Something like this? Because there is no hole in the actall stl file. Bottom side is solid and thus there is no need for support as stated in comment above. Sorry if Iam missing something. :)

Yes, there should be two gaps on the vertical wall. All material between the gaps should be removed. Look at the rocker arm in the thingiverse viewer. It shows the gap. Some slicers might not recognize it as a gap and just skip over it.

Found an easier way to remove the rocker arm "support:"

Clamp each rocker arm upside down in a vise. If you have a machinist's vise for a home drill press that works great. Then, working freehand with a fine razor saw like the one that comes with the X-Acto miter box, slice down twice until you reach the slots. You can eyeball where to cut - the opening you create should be a bit wider than 4.5mm. Cleanup the rough edges with an X-Acto knife and file, open up the hole and de-burr it up with a 6mm drill. The first few rockers take about 3-5 min.; after that it goes quicker.

BTW, I reprinted the rocker pins with an OD of 5.93mm. Using Simplify3D and my Prusa MK2, the orig. file produced pins that required a LOT of sanding or opening up the rocker hole to 1/4" and then some.

Now I do understand what do you mean. I will try it on my rocker arms, but I doubt it will get delaminated without braking, since there is no interface layers like on the real support matterial. I suppose you could increase the distances between the actual part and the support, so razor blade delaminates exactly the layer you want to. Or actualy leave it blank and print with real support and just file the hole square. I don't know, but this way it is "complicated. :)

I tried to design this part with support and without support. With support designed in to the part, my slicer did not proper print it. Printing the part without built in support and allowing the slicer to add support, caused more problems also. The size of the hole needs to be the same as the mounting surface on the rocker rail, printing with support will cause that distance to be smaller and it also cause the first couple layers of the inner circle to not print properly. I will upload a part file without support later, but printing the current part and using a razor blade to break off the "support" is what i found to work best. It probably wont break off at the exact layer but you would just use the razor blade to cut off the layers.

Eric could you repair the exhaust manifold files?

I made new ones. I'm test printing them now.

Eric, did you manage to fix the EXHAUST manifolds? I would like to print them. :)

New ones are uploaded. They are names LS3 Header. The old ones are deleted. The wall are 1.2mm thick so either printing with a .4mm nozzle or enabling thin wall detection would be wise. Print with support touching buildplate and support for anything other 75 degree angle.

Comments deleted.
Comments deleted.

If someone has one laying around that the want to give me to reverse engineer.

You are the man! Thanks for uploading a split version of the engine block. I am still going to try to squeeze it onto my Flashforge Creator Pro with the new glass bed upgrade that I did. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1127638 I just printed the corners and installed the bed last night and it makes use of the full travel of the x and y axes. Definitely recommend for anyone with a Flashforge, now to see if I can fit this block on there...

Extended Glass Mount for Flashforge Creator Pro
by Bassna

this is amazing!!!! I really want to print one, but my print bed is only 8x8x7. i have checked most of the parts, but is there any print i would not be able to print?

Amazing work. Loved watching the video!

I reaaalllllly love this 'thing', thing of beauty if you ask me :P

However, i've tried to start the print, and i've started the intake manifold multiple times already, but everytime it fails miserably. It starts with a small piece but in the end my whole extruder is clogged up from the outside with a 4cm diameter plastic ball :S

Any idea why this is happening? After i've cleaned it up again, print anything else, everything works perfectly with smooth prints as a result.

nvm, just found the same as the post below :P

Comments deleted.

@ericthepoolboy: Eric, please, rotate the Intake manifold so it lays flat. P.M.

Also, Oil pan is not laying flat as well. There is some rectangle which is 0.1mm lower than perimeter of the pan.

I thought I had fixed those. I'll fix them and upload new files later today. But if you can't wait, some slicer have a "lay flat" option under the rotate option. I know cura does.

Eric I know. Thing is I slice these in new standalone Slic3er Prusa edition which has this new "ensure vertical thickness" option. This option helps to provent "holes" on vertical surfaces (oil pan, intake manifold etc.). This standalone Slic3r doesn't have "lay flat option" like Repetier host which I use on standart basis. Thanks for you attention :)

updated the files

I just started to print the updated version of intake manifold. On the header, there is a place which is entirely in the "air" and thus cannot be printed without support (as stated in pdf). If possible, fix the shape of the intake header or place some "hardcoded" support pillar under it.

Comments deleted.
Comments deleted.

had that problem also, but there is a lay flat option in my slicer that solved it.

I want to build a special engine using alternative fuel and need assistance with the engineering. If anyone wants to know more about the project or wants to help, reply to this message.

Hareware kits are available. $52 for all the fasteners, bearings, rods, springs, and the belt. Fasteners and rods will have to be cut to length as indicated in the parts list. I also have the 500 rpm motors for $17, speed controller for $6, 12v power supply for $4. Everything should all fit in a flat rate envelope so $6.95 for shipping in the US. I'm still working on setting up a website to sell them but you can PayPal me at ericthepoolboy@gmail.com

Is it possible for me to buy the springs and the belt only?

Yes, $20 shipped in the US for the belt and 16 springs.

How much is shipping (for just the hardware kit) to the UK mate?

EDIT - Also are you doing hardware kits for your other designs?

I believe priority shipping to the UK would be $35. I will be selling kits for my other models as well. The Subaru kit will be priced at $50. Just waiting on more parts right but shouldn't be too long.

Cool. I'll be in touch in the new year.

By the way is there no other shipping alternative to the UK?

I wish there was. I don't think there is a cheaper alternative but I will keep looking as I would like to offer this kit to as many people as possible and shipping from the US to other countries is always expensive.

Update: so First class international is $22 for 2lbs. The kit for this engine with motor and speed controller is just under 2lbs. Shipping for 2 kits (4 lbs) would be $34.

I forgot to ask one more thing - does the power supply work with 230V as well?

Yes, but it has a US plug on it.

I have a Monoprice Select Mini printer, which has a very small build volume. I'd have to slice the engine block into 4 parts if I wanted to print it full scale on my printer.

Do you think I'd be able to assemble this at 0.6 scale? I'm guessing I could go down to M2 screws instead of M3 for most of the project, but I'm not sure if I'll be able to find scaled-down versions of the other hardware parts.

Got any thoughts on this wacky idea of mine?

Is your hardware kit complete including the motor, timing belt etc? I would like to buy one from you to complete this build.


The kit I have received from him includes the timing belt, but you can purchase the motor, ESC, and psu from him separately. I've got my kit now, he has it packaged in a stack-on plastic compartment organizer. Pretty awesome to have the organizer too.

This is the message he has posted above and elsewhere -

Hareware kits are available. $52 for all the fasteners, bearings, rods, springs, and the belt. Fasteners and rods will have to be cut to length as indicated in the parts list. I also have the 500 rpm motors for $17, speed controller for $6, 12v power supply for $4. Everything should all fit in a flat rate envelope so $6.95 for shipping in the US. I'm still working on setting up a website to sell them but you can PayPal me at ericthepoolboy@gmail.com

I noticed after the original post. I have a hardware kit plus everything else that should be arriving today! Thanks.

what motor did you use for the movement of the engine?

doesnt the camaro have the lt engine?

Comments deleted.

I have a 2014 Camaro SS 1LE with the LS3. 2010-2015 have the LS3 (manual trans) and L99 (automatic trans) and LSA (ZL1). The 2016 Camaros have the LT engine series.

Comments deleted.

It depends what year and kind of camaro, for example a 98 ss camaro has an ls engine.

It depends what year and kind of camaro, for example a 98 ss camaro has an ls engine.

Comments deleted.

This is amazing! I have been waiting for a quality v8 to print! I do have one request, Is there any way that you could somehow split the block into a glue together 2 piece design? I am using a flashforge creator pro and the block is just a hair too big for me to print :(

Can't you just scale it down like in cura

Id rather not scale it down because I plan on assembling the whole model and the hardware, bearings, motor etc. would no longer work. I think I will go the route of printing in two pieces

Use meshmixer. It is free and works well. Here is a guide on how to split.

It depends on the program you use to put the design into code for the printer but you could slide half of the design out of the virtual plate so it doesn't print that part and then later flip it so the other half is out.

I downloaded the trial version of Netfabb and I am able to section cut and save it out as two different stls. The bummer is theres really no awesome spot to split it without going right through the cylinder bores or main journals.... we will see how it goes when I get more silver filament. Right now I'm printing the intake manifold, so far so good except for the lower right of the throttle body flange. It says print with no support, but I did notice that that is impossible to do properly without a support under that part

Yes, there's one little spot on the intake manifold that prints in air but you can just trim that little piece later. If you printed with support on most slicers it would put support everywhere you don't want it.

That's nuts! Nice job! I don't think my rep rap would last a 72 hour print!

Any interest in selling an assembled unit? Or a complete kit to build up?

Comments deleted.
Comments deleted.

WOW! This is amazing! As someone who regularly builds LS engines, I gotta say you did an amazing job with accuracy!

But now you've got me thinking, wonder how much compression the Taulman 910 could handle with this build, Couple 3D printed piston rings, and a mist spray system and this could be a TRULY working model. :D

Matti Holtzberg - Polimotor... you might find that interesting :-)

Good Job Eric made it on the main page

Comments deleted.

If you've got the time, you should make an 4 rotor.

Please make the f20c honda!

This is awesome, thank you for sharing all your hard work

This is awesome, thank you for sharing all your hard work

This is perfection. I wouldn't be surprised to see you come up with an entirely different way to build an internal combustion engine, drawing on your experience from the other work you've done.

could you post a video of you putting the cam shaft and crank shaft together we are building this for a school project

I don't have a video of the assembly process for either. The drawings show how they go together. I used an Epoxy to assemble the camshaft in sections, making sure each piece was properly aligned and at the right distance before the epoxy set. The crankshaft was assembled without epoxy and test fitted with all the mains tightened down and the pistons installed to make sure there was no interference. the disassembled, glued and reassemble, and re test fitted.

Once again Eric proves he is Da Man .... Da Motor Modeling Man

Toyota motors and transmissions, Chevy V-8s ,,,,,, Cripes I'm going to have all 3 of my printers working 16 hour shifts from now until June ......

awesome printing one now

Contact me with a link or something I can use to purchase the kit from you, will be building motor within a week. A rough price would be great, I live in bemidji MN

Very cool! Do you think it would be possible to forge the parts out of aluminum and make an actual working engine?

You can do lost PLA casting. I just don't have a foundry. If anybody is up to the challenge though...

This is something I would love to see :D
from print to working metal.... that would be something very cool.

Amazing work! I'm curious about your process of designing the moving parts. Do you make a lot of trial prints of portions of the engine to test fit and function? How did you find the right amount of clearance to give parts so they don't bind up (the pistons in the cylinders, for instance)?

Everything is designed in CAD as one assembly. Clearances are just standardized now from all my past motors and transmissions. Most parts are only printed once if you can believe that.

LS power! Nice job. Cammed LS1 in an 02 SS over here..405whp

That is absolutely fantastic. Great job...

If I may ask, approximately what scale is this engine? I'd love to print it as a non-working model for use in 1/24 and 1/25 scale model cars and trucks. I love your work! All of your engines and transmissions are beautiful. There wouldn't happen to be a transmission to back this masterpiece in the works would there? Thank you!

Hmm, not a bad idea. I have many 1/24's that could use this. Let me know how it turns out. And of course, if you make it work, toss me the STL's, lol.

how big is the engine block (Length by width by height)

Looks like the version in the stl files for the block are right just under
x-161mm y-182mm z-112mm

Is it possible to get one of the hardware kits all the way to new zealand? if so how much will it cost?

I'm working on getting more materials from suppliers but right now the kits will probably be priced at $52 US. That includes all the bearings, fasteners, springs, belt, and magnets. You will need to cut and grind the rods/fasteners to size as noted in the parts list.
I have the DC motors and soon the speed controllers available for $17 for the motor and $6 for the speed controller.
Just from looking at the post office website, shipping would be $35 for a small flat rate priority box to New Zealand..

I am interested in the kit including the motor and controller. Can you Payhpal invoice me for the total cost @ wurth1@cox.net?? Great work.

Does it fit the trans?

No, but if somebody has a tremec 6 speed laying around or the CAD files, I can add it to the list.

What exactly would you need to do a tremec or 4L80? There are half a dozen of each at my shop at any given moment, not to mention a hundred other engine/trans combos from the early 1900's up Figured maybe I could lend a hand.

Thinking of printing these in a non-functioning smaller scale (no internals) to give to some of my customers. I've done probably 16 or so LS swaps this year, and 3 Z06 supercharged LT4 swaps, some of them in half million dollar+ cars. Figured it would be a good gesture to my customers.

Ideally I would like the whole transmission. I'm not sure i would attempt an automatic transmission at this time just due to the how they work with fluid and the clutches and planetary gears are hidden anyways. Wouldn't mind doing a flathead V8 in the future....

If you were closer I could provide you with all sorts of stuff for modeling. I work at one of the biggest auto restoration shops in the country (if you watch the Velocity channel, you might have seen me / my shop) unfortunately shipping a trans cross country to be pulled apart for modeling just isn't an option. I'd like to see a flathead done too, and I happen to have an old flathead Cadi rotting away behind the shop.

So you work for Fantomworks? That '65 C10 build was pretty badass. I'm building a 66 at the moment.

Where do you get the screws to assemble the engine?

I buy in bulk and in a large assortment as I don't know what size screw I need till after I model everything. I will be selling complete hardware kits for all my models shortly.

I personally get everything from McMaster Carr here in the states. Been buying their hardware for RC and other projects for ten plus years.

And here I am almost finished with the EJ205......

This is now added as well. I am glad I bought so much hardware for the first engine. I might have some similar bearings and nuts to use now!!!

That engine stand though, NEED that!

Yeah, the engine stand is what makes it look great. I chuckled a little when I mounted the V8 to it for the first time just because of how realistic it made it look. I'm working on getting prices for materials and some laser cut parts for it right now.

Oooh, metal too!!!! Hmmmm. I was wondering how that could be printed and strong - can't.....

Yeah, metal. All welded up. I tried to figure out a way to make it printable but it just wasn't practical since the engine ways a good 5 pounds and that much weight cantilevering off a printed part would be disastrous.

looks like the rocker arms need to be modified because there is no hole for where the m3 screw goes thru the bottom portion on the arm to secure to the head

The material that you see on the rocker arm needs to be removed after printing, Trying to print support in that small of a section would prove to be difficult.

awesome job. what printer and size print bed did you use

220mm x 220mm x200mm

Comments deleted.

Please let me know as soon as you have the hardware kits available, I would like to buy one. Thank you!

I'll work on a total later today. Still waiting on some parts.

Please let me know as well. Might have a few holiday dollars left to put towards a hardware kit.

Thank you, I am also interested in the engine stand, just add me to the list!

Outstanding! I can't wait till I have the time to print this! Do you have instructions on how to make the engine stand?

I don't at the moment. I was planning on possibly selling them. Making only one of them is a pain. I'm getting together material prices and laser cut pieces for it right now.

Also I'm having trouble finding valve springs. Where did you get them? Or make them?

Comments deleted.

I was going to print the engine but I found out that the engine block is too big for my 3D printer. Its build volume is 235 mm X 145 mm X 150 mm. I could use Netfabb to cut the engine block in half lengthwise, print both parts, and cement the parts together but I'm not sure if this will work. Any suggestions?

You could possibly cut it in half but the cam is held in place by a "press fit". So if you glue it together then the cam might split it apart if the fit is too tight or it my slide around if its too loose. I'll take a look at the block and see if there anyway I can modify it to cut it in half and have it screw together instead of gluing.

Status on modified engine block?

Cutting it in half and attaching it with screws doesn't look like it would be practical. The holes and fasteners would end up in weird location. Your best bet it to cut it down the middle, print, then flat sand gluing surface, and use a quality super glue. Should be string enough considering the surface area to be glued.

Eric, Can you make a single cylinder engine that is powered by compressed air no one has made one by a 3d print and I'm after one thanks

Eric, Can you make a single cylinder engine that is powered by compressed air no one has made one by a 3d print and I'm after one thanks

And made TO SCALE!? Damn.. you da man, Eric.

I'm Impressed, and the Engine Stand, I love it.

Very nice! But too nice for my notebook... :D I think it will be impossible to print it, cause this mine s**tbook can't even run the visualisation of sliced block :D

You continue to amaze everyone. well done as usual.

wooow, very very wooow

Impressive, thanks for sharing this with us!