Han Solo Blaster DL-44

by PortedtoReality, published

Han Solo Blaster DL-44 by PortedtoReality Nov 25, 2016

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Test-fit before gluing. Assembly guide may have wrong order of steps, so use it just to understand orientation and what goes where. Feel free to post and share your finished prints with the rest of us!

Updated pictures to include printed and painted DL-44 by BobaMaker. Check him out! https://www.thingiverse.com/BobaMaker/about

Some users give useful tips in the comments. Printing handles vertically give better finish. Support is recommended for Parts 20, 21, 29, and 32. Part 11 (grip pin) might be 4 mm too long. Part 18 (crossbar pin) may be too thin. A quick fix for these pins is sanding or adding tape.


This is a 3D-printable replica of Han Solo’s DL-44 Heavy Blaster from Star Wars: A New Hope. Through my extensive research and effort, this is the most accurate 3D-printable DL-44 replica designed for ease of print and fine detail. In the images above is a comparison between this 3D printed design and one of the few existing reference materials for the screen-used DL-44.

The stl files are already oriented correctly, but make sure to download and read the included ‘3Dprinted_dl44_assemblyGuide .pdf’ for all the print settings and assembly instructions. For those of you who do not own a 3D printer, check out local printing services near you through 3D Hubs.


-Accurate replica of Han Solo’s DL-44 from Star Wars: A New Hope

-Visual Assembly Guide PDF containing full print settings and assembly instructions IKEA-style

-Designed for ease of printing and painting

-Seamless design – no need for body filler or putty to cover up seam lines!

-Working Trigger (rubberband mechanism) as seen in this gif: http://imgur.com/DbCOpMu

-Interior space for embedded electronics

Print Settings

Printer Brand:








Most at 0.1 mm layer height




Print Settings:

  • Default speed (60 mm/s)

  • 205C hotend temperature, 60 bed temperature using Hatchbox PLA (Black)

  • 37 files

  • 80+ hours (on Ultimaker 2 200 x 200 x 200 mm bed)

  • Some support for a few parts (check in assembly guide)


Some acrylic paint and foam brush was used to give the final print some color.

How I Designed This

The screen-used DL-44 was built using many World War 2 components like the Mauser C96 “Bolo” variant, German Hensoldt & Wetzlar Ziel Dialyth 3x sniper scope, and MG81 aircraft-mounted machine gun flash hider. All of these real-world components are rare and cost thousands of dollars and inaccessible to many of us, so I poured hundreds of hours to capture accurate details on Google, AskMisterScience’s extensive guide on Mauser C-96s, and the Replica Prop Forum.

The parts press-fit together and are cleverly designed in Autodesk Fusion 360 to be seamless without the use of body filler. Superglue (cyanoacrylate) will ensure the prop stays in one piece, especially for cosplay purposes. This model also comes with a working trigger mechanism that uses a standard rubberband.

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Your paint Job is so perfect! and the weathering is awesome!

Everyone says to print the handle grips vertically, but I think I prefer the layer pattern when I print them horizontally.
This is a first test of Hatchbox wood PLA and some Minwax red mahogany stain. I like the layer effect, it looks like woodgrain to me.

Printing handle grips vertically makes them smoother, but I have to agree that the woodgrain-like effect on your horizontally printed handles look amazing!

I downloaded this last weekend and I've been in the process of printing it for the past eight days (almost there!). So far this has been an absolutely amazing print, certainly the most impressive and well though out ones I've done to date.

My only criticism is that file 33_hammer mechanism needs to be renamed to 32_hammer mechanism....because I'm an idiot...and thought the file was missing...

A big thanks to PortedToReality for taking the time to research, draw this up, post it, edit it and curate it!

Are the crossbar pins too small for anyone else? I printed mine and they don't fit snugly with the spacers and aren't long enough to reach the thumbnuts.

Yeah, you might have to play with the scale, sanding, or filling. I think the width depends on the over/under extrusion of any one printer. So, some users might find parts fit very snugly while others might find parts fit very loosely.

My make. Painting isn’t done yet. I had a guy print it for me, so I’m not sure what printer he used. Most of it was printed on FDM but a few of the smaller parts were printed on SLA for detail.

Did you glue in the sightleaf or no?

Superglued and super happy with it.

tysm can't wait to finish it!

is the numbered aim..thingy (sightleaf) on the receiver supposed to easily fall out? should I glue it?

Yeah, I superglued it. I have no idea how the sightleaf fits on the real Mauser.

alright nice, did the same already, did I tell you what an amazing file this is btw, this is actually like, seriously amazing like change my life amazing.

Lol i asked the same thing the other day, but I have not gotten a reply back.

Not sure if this has been brought to your attention or if I'm just dumb, but part 2 does need support at least in the way its orientated for me. Otherwise fantastic model, but what parts should be glued and what shouldn't, should part 3 and 4 be glued onto the barrel, or does it need to slide. Thank you so much.

This model is absolutely amazing. I only have a few more parts to print before I upload my completed make. Thank you so much!

Comments deleted.

First, I want to address the op with a big thank you for sharing such an accurate piece freely with the Thingiverse community. Gives people a much cheaper alternative than trying to piece one together. Second, lets address laws regarding replicas. United States federal law, only states that a replica/imitation firearm must be SOLD with an orange tip from the distributor. Legally, you can purchase the new tip at the SAME STORE, and put it on the firearm IN THE STORE, and you and the seller are both still on the right side of the law so long as it was sold separately. There is no law in the United States requiring you to paint your tip orange. For Christ sake the second amendment allows you to carry a REAL firearm, not just a 3D printed toy. Now, if you use it in the commiting of a crime, you will be charged with an "armed" felony as if it were a real gun. This is the only hang up. You can also by law MAKE your own real firearm in the United States... Now, as con rules go, each is set up by it's own staff and has it's own rules, but I don't recall ever seeing a single Han Solo cosplay that had an orange tip. They may be out there, but I've not seen them.

Forgot to mention point of view... This comes from an obscene amount of research before heavily modifying my own airsoft guns to look like they have actually been in active duty in the Middle East, and from knowing someone who is personally doing time for armed robbery at the end of an airsoft gun.

I am a California-based cosplay enthusiast and want to print parts 10 through 37 through a California-based 3DHubs service. What are California laws regarding 3D printing cosplay weaponry via 3DHubs? I want to finish my project but don't want to break the law. I don't have a 3D printer at home.

If in public, I think the laws are pretty much the same as Airsoft replica gun laws in California -- just tell you to color the tip of the gun orange. You can print whatever you want through 3DHubs as the printer providers are basically independent contractors (printing hobbyists like the rest of us). As always, check your comic convention rules before bringing any cosplay weapons to the event. I'm not lawyer and don't really do cosplay, so you might want to ask friendly cosplayers near you. Have fun!

3DHubs states that "For imitation/non-functional weapons used as props for costumes or cosplay it is the responsibility of the Hub/Manufacturing Partner and Customer to judge whether the weapon breaches local legislation. Under Dutch law it is illegal to own/possess/use/manufacture imitation/non-functional weapons without the required licenses." I'm definitely not the only cosplayer who has had this question so I am hoping that for a Los Angeles-based Hub it is fine to print the remaining pieces.

That statement is there for liability reasons so 3DHubs doesn't get sued -- same concept as to why California labels everything that causes cancer.

I'm in the middle of making this at the moment. Just wanted to say this is one of the best models I've come across. Many thanks for making it available.

I made a small change to part 16 to:

  1. Add a tab to the top side front of the trigger.
  2. Add two pins to seat a microswitch on; hence the tab above
  3. Shaved a bit off the front to allow more room for electronics in the front of gun.

Parts 15 and 16 are labelled the wrong way round in the build guide by the way.

I'll add an "I made one" once I have completed the build.



Hey! You're welcome. I'm glad you liked the model. If you want, you could share that part 16 that you modified as a 'Remix' so others can use it too. Thanks!

Anyone have dimensions on this? Custom making a holster for it.

Is there a reference for installing the rubber band for the trigger, it’s still printing so I haven’t gotten there yet, just need an idea when it gets finished

There's a picture in the guide.

Comments deleted.

Je viens de voir sur Ebay cette personne qui vend des impressions 3D avec vos plans et notice de montage. Je ne sais pas si vous êtes la même personne mais je préfère vous alerter.

I just saw on Ebay this person who sells 3D prints with your plans and assembly instructions. I do not know if you are the same person but I prefer to alert you.



Thanks for notiying me. I DO NOT profit from this design and I DO NOT sell printed products. And I DO NOT want anyone to be selling this for profit. This design is FREE -- please, go ahead and print this for yourself, your friends, and your family and share in the exciting hobby that is 3D printing. However, please DO NOT SELL this design and please don't take credit for work that is not your own. I know there are over a dozen people selling these dozens across eBay and Etsy, and there is no way for me to track and shut them down. However, I am happy to know that the rest of you are enjoying my FREE design and sharing it with your friends. Happy printing, everybody! :)

Comments deleted.

You are very welcome :)

What kind of filament do you recommend to have something nice and solid-feeling?

PLA is the easiest to print (less warping) and is pretty durable. However, if you really want your model to shine, you have to sand, use filler, paint, and seal it to look amazing as some of models that other users have made. I think if you want it to feel heavy and solid-feeling, you'd have to put some weights in this or brush it in resin. Also, superglue does a good job of making everything less wobbly.

Thanks! Much obliged.

I note that you said you designed this In Fusion 360. Would you be willing to share the Fusion Fd3 file? I would love to take a look at the assembled model, and make a few tweaks of my own... cause I cant leave anything well enough alone. Plus I have a CNC Mill and lathe, and I kinda wanna make the flash from metal.

I'm really digging this model. Awesome work. However, I did have some issues. Firstly the sight leaf and sight knob. It was really difficult getting the knob on, so I thought it might be a good idea to consider making the sight leaf and sight knob one part instead of two. The other problem is the grip pin. I found that it's too long. Aside from that, really great work.

Thanks for pointing that out. The design was modeled to have tight tolerances because it's easier to sand down parts rather than account for all the different variances across printers. I did consider making the sight leaf and sight knob as one part, but print quality may be compromised. I'm really just a newbie to 3D modeling, and I haven't really touched it much in the past year or two -- I may not even have time anymore because of school. Glad you enjoyed this!

So I'm downloading this print and while doing so I noticed that number 13 was missing. Am I missing something there or is that how its supposed to be?

I miscounted and accidentally skipped 13.

are the print dimensions for each piece available? I got a XYZ DaVinci jr for christmas and it can only print 5.9 x 5.9 x 5.9 inch pieces

You'll be able to print every piece. The scope can be printed in two parts instead of one (print 23_scopeA and 23_scopeB instead of 23_scope)

Thanks I enjoyed making it

The scope frame overlaps the grill. Is it supposed to cant outward and sit on top? The picture makes it seem that way. If that is the case is the back of the frame supposed to be moved out to even the 2 ends?

There's a gap between the scope frame and the grill because of the slight tapering of the receiver (the receiver gets slightly thinner as you move from the trigger to the front of the receiver). So, the scope frame is held by the pins through the receiver and sits on top/in front of the grill. If I remember correctly, the scope frame doesn't need to be in contact/glued to the grill.

Hi! Firstly, thank you so much for putting the effort in to building this.

On to the problem I've encountered: When attempting to slide the top receiver (part 1) onto the lower receiver (part 9) while the trigger mech is installed (parts 15, 16, 17), the top receiver can't slide all the way in.

I've looked inside while attempting to do the assembly and it appears the top part of the trigger mech is stopping the middle bar of the top receiver from fulling sliding forward. It's approx 2mm to high.

I've also had a look at the made pages here and I've noticed a lot of people who've had this problem and haven't noticed. It's why their hammers are always stuck in the half cocked position, because the top receiver is 1cm further back than it should be.

I had to shave my trigger mechanism down to get the slide to move up enough.

Thanks for pointing this out! I'll try and fix that in the coming months when I return to this hobby.

This is awesome! Where did you find the dimensions for all the parts? What software did you create it in?

Thanks! Dimensions were from all over the place. Some from forums like the Replica Prop Forum and a few firearms forums. Everything was modeled in Autodesk Fusion 360, which is free and easy to learn.There are plenty of tutorials on YouTube if you want to get started modeling. This was one of my first real projects, so I'm still very much a beginner.

you mean the fusion 360 free trial? pretty sure you pay for that.

Fusion 360 is free for students, educators, and enthusiasts (what we are categorized as). It is also free if you run a small business that makes less than $100,000. You can see how to activate the free license here:


oh, well thank you very much my good man.

Comments deleted.

is it just me or does the sight not fit onto the b arrel very well?

Mine was friction fit, but it came loose after awhile. I just superglued it.

like the bit with the weird slider

I just wanted to write and thank you for the most amazing model, and above all for the priceless assembly guide! It's people like you that make 3D printing fun for people like me! :)

There have been a few mentions of parts being the wrong size (grip pins) and the trigger assembly not fitting for some reason, etc, and all those apply for me too. - But I'd also like to add, that the orientation of part 36, or "thumbnut middle" isn't optimal. Flipping it over (180 degrees) gives a nice flat bottom with a small hole that tapers in a smart way to allow printing without supports. - The original way ends up with a messy hollow area.

Oh, and I'll second using rafts for the grill and the scope clips!

I'll have to give printing the handles vertically a shot, as I was unhappy with the surface quality on my first attempt.

Thanks Hoffa!

This was one of my earliest projects, and I'm a total beginner when it comes to 3D modeling and 3D printing. I'm sure there are several errors in this project, but I think people generally find their way around them like you are. At the moment, I'm busy with school and life, so I haven't had much time for this hobby, but hopefully in a few months I'll be back at it again.

Several others have printed handles vertically, and it will definitely give you a better surface finish, but I was worried with some beginners that might have trouble with it falling over because of the small surface area to the print bed.

Good luck on the print, and I hope this inspires you to create more stuff!

Fixes for the parts table in the assembly manual:

Part 21. Magazine_Floorplate - Support YES (required for the T-section)
Part 32. Hammer_Mechanism - Support YES (required for the two T-sections on the sides)

Part fixes required:

Part 11. Part is approx 4 mm too long.
Part 18. Parts are too thin. The one that goes in the back is too long because it bumps into part 32.

Thanks for finding these fixes! I added them to the notes above.

Thanks for the great model! Is it just me, or the grill fins on the model seem to be a tad too long?

I spent a long time examining references for the grill fins, and I think this is as close as it gets. But if they're too long for your preferences, it may be possible to sand them down.

What an absolutely beautifully designed model! Thank you so much for this, it's been a joy to print. The only problem I have run into is part 11, the Grip_Pin. It seems to be too long, causing the left and right grips to not seat properly on the receiver. Is this a problem others have experienced or am I just missing something? Thanks again, I'll be sure to post my print when I'm done!

Yes, they are too long. Just cut off 4 mm of each. I also found the part 18 (crossbar pin) too be too long (the one that goes in the back) and too thin.

Hey there! I just wanted to say I have always wanted this iconic prop from Star Wars and when I got my 3d printer, the DL-44 was something I knew I had to print. I spent some time looking at the files, looking at the details, the quality of build, and out of all the blasters like this on Thingiverse, I don't think the quality of this build can be matched. You did a great job, and I am still working on the paint job on mine, but it was a super easy print, a super easy build, and other than some tweaking for the length of the posts for the scope mount, and 16 hours of sanding the PLA. I love this model. Thank you so much for sharing this beautiful work.

Thanks! I'm confident that this is the most accurate 3D-printable DL-44 to date. The hardcore Star Wars fan might notice that it's extremely accurate, but it's still missing some details. However, these details are difficult to print: most notably the sight greeblies (too fragile and kept breaking), markings on the scope (many variants to the WWI German scope, and they won't appear well unless you use a resin printer), reticule and lens for the scope, and maybe some other small details that will just forever be a mystery because of the lack of good reference photos. Anyway, I hope you post your finished model when you're done! I love seeing how amazing some people paint and weather their props!

You are very welcome, and I concur! Sure, there were a few things missing like you mentioned. I would be tempted to try and to engrave the markings on the scope because I do not have a resin printer, and when I build another one of these a little down the road, I already have a few ideas to fake optics, and I may want to take advantage of what looks like some really clever design on your part to add lights and sound. I swear an LED will fit right in the flash suppressor and has a clear line all the way to the main body. This first one will probably end up in a shadow box I am working on for some of the iconic weapons from the films, and I am planning to display this one with the Princess Leia Defender Sporting Blaster from April Storm. I hope you don't mind, I have spent a LOT of time looking at the models for this, and have learned so much I want to apply to my own designs. I hope to finish the paint this week, and I will be glad to have my print on display with the others.

Ah yes! I'd like to see someone put in electronics -- I'm pretty sure I modeled enough space in the receiver and magazine chamber for you to put an an Arduino microcontroller, Li-Po battery, speakers, and possibly a laser/LED. In previous versions of the model, I had some space in the grip as well, but I had issues with the grip cracking when waving the model around. I really hope to embed light and sound in my next blaster!

This is my first independent 3D print. I have a couple pieces left to print, but I definitely learned a lot in the process. I highly recommend using a raft to print a few of the pieces like the scope clips and grill (or any other part that needs supports for that matter). I printed the barrel with no supports and it turned out just fine. I'll post pics when I get it assembled and painted. Thanks for posting this. I can't wait for the next project.

How did you go about painting this? Especially the flash suppressor, which has such fine little grooves

I would sand all the rough edges and prime the entire thing with gesso first. Then spray/hand paint the parts in colours that you want. For weathering I would dry brush silver for scratches. for dirt and grime weathering I would use either chalk dust (or weathering powder) or ink washes, with dry brush touch ups.

The flash hider is just printed in silver with some black acrylic painted on with a foam brush and wiped away to fill in the little grooves. If you want a more metallic look, you can get some Rub n Buff compound to give your filament a metallic sheen or look into Alcad's airbrush paints. I don't have any good experience painting, so you might want to Google weathering/painting tutorials.

What is the empty "slot" or "groove" on the back of "09_receiver_v4". I've printed all of the pieces, including 09_receiver and 09_receiver_v4 to ensure that I had the right one, but nothing seems to complete this section

On the 'real' pistol, it was for a butt stock. It would slide into the pistol grip and allow a shoulder brace to steady the pistol.

If you're talking about the groove/slot between the wood grips of the handle, it's there on the real Mauser C96 that Han Solo's Blaster is based off of. I have no idea what function it has.


At 13:30 in this video he has the full mauser with stock/case. And shows how it is assembled. Its a great video for replica makers.

The mystery groove explained


Wasn't happy with the surface finish quality of the rib detail on the grips after many attempts at printing them in the supplied orientation. Finally decided to stand them upright with minimal custom supports (thank you, Simplify3D) with much better results.

Good tip, I too was unhappy with the orig result. I tried upright and now they look much better.

Cool! I'm glad it worked out for you. I was considering orienting it vertically, but I was worried some people might have their print falling down. Also, if you sand the grips, they come out smooth in the end anyway.

Some would have trouble, I'm sure. Horizontal, it seemed like no matter what I did with temp and speed (in Cura and S3D), I'd end up with stringing and melty patches along the upper crest of the curve. Sanding took care of some of it, but then I lost some ridge height too. I also had to do some digging to get warts out of the grooves. Whatever works!

Awesome model!
I got my printer 3 days ago and this is my first "project" on it.
One thing I encountered is the orientation of the 05_boltStop. I use simplify3d and when I load the boltStop it is balance on the "curved" side thus not sticking on my board.
I turned it -90 on x axis and it works fine now.

So far great work on this blaster. Everything is printing beautifully.
My machine Prusa i3 Mk2. One note is on the scope(23). For me it comes in on its side(horizontally). Of course not an ideal orientation to print. Easy enough fix to rotate it, but sadly to tall(216mm) for my machine(200mm). Might be a good idea to have an alternate version that is split with the seam hidden under one of the scope mounts.
Thanks again

Glad you liked it! Thanks for catching that! I didn't even know the scope was oriented horizontally! Making an alternate version of the scope is definitely a good idea. I'll work on that this weekend. It'll be nice to see a picture of how your print comes out, and if you do some paint/weathering on it as well.

Yeah so I rebuilt the scope in fusion 360 and split it just before the second mount hole and this allows the seam to be hidden under the mount. I have already printed it and it works out perfectly. And yes I will definitely be fully completing this with paint/weathering and posting here the results. Thanks again for the great work, you saved me a lot of time.

Wadoman1, do you have the stl files for the split scope?

wanting to reprint mine vertially for a better finish.

I do have the .stl files.
I just published the files on here.

Really nice looking replica. I'm having trouble fitting what you call the barrel to receiver v3 (was the same on v2) the groove in the "barrel" isn't large enough to accept the receiver (z axis). I've filed away the excess on my v2 but it was still a tight fit and then had the trouble with the trigger not fitting and was hoping v3 might be better but seems the same size.

I wanted mine to be a snug fit, but it's good to know how it prints on other people's printers. I'll work on some changes -- I'll probably change the tolerance to 0.3 or 0.4 mm between the barrel and receiver in a way that's hopefully not loose.

Fantastic! Really is a great model. I've already made my barrel adapter to flash suppressor fit but that was a very tight fit on my print as well. I ended up chucking it up in my lathe and turning it down 20-30 thousandths.

I looked back at my files and saw that the barrel and receiver were definitely problematic. However, the barrel adapter and flash hider should fit fine (I've printed flash hiders and barrel adapters recently). Do 0.2 tolerances work for press-fit parts for you? And 0.3 tolerances for sliding parts? I thought these were the "standard" tolerances and would work fine, but maybe this standard changed?

I'm pretty new to 3d printing so not sure what the usual tolerance should be. I've just had to do a lot of drilling and filing to get parts to fit. Seems like if I'm glueing them anyway I'd rather have them too loose than too tight. Might be I'm just getting poor print quality and making things tight.

Ah, the usual tolerance is 0.2 mm for press-fit and 0.3 mm for sliding parts. If your parts come out "fuzzy," you'll need a looser tolerance or just drill, file, and sand like you are doing now. The end product will be worth it :D

ok, thanks for the responses.

this was a really tight fit for me, even after filing the crap out of the slots on the barrel for more than 30 minutes

This looks amazing. I'm going to start printing it up tomorrow. I've made two other DL-44 models, but this looks like the kind of challenge and detail I have wanted.

This is pretty accurate down to "Replica Prop Forum" precision unlike the model that you downloaded and painted (but that model is definitely easier to print). I got ahold of exact measurements from an existing Mauser C96 and MG42 flash hider, and I think I have a close estimate for the Hensoldt Wetzler German scope based on pictures. However, a thing to keep in mind is that there were different manufacturers for Mauser C96s (Chinese and Russian primarily), and it seems there were several variants of MG42 flash hiders throughout World War II. Basically, this is the most accurate you can get in short of having your hands on the real hero prop.

It's also not that difficult to print besides the grill, but that can be printed at a slower speed as indicated in my visual assembly guide. I'm not the best painter, but based on your work, I really hope you can show all of us a professional paint job :D

this is incredible, starting to print now, thank you

Thanks! Also, I just updated the receiver model to have added strength and the "mystery disc" detail - it's labeled 09_receiver_v2.stl and is also included in the dl44_stl.zip file, so make sure you print the better version :D

Hi, is the mystery disc meant to be not all the way round?


repaired the file with https://makeprintable.com

:-| My bad.

I checked when I sliced the file that there was enough material - it's possible that my slicer settings made it come out okay, but everyone's slicer settings are different.

To make this easily printable across different slicer settings, I edited the file by giving the receiver more thickness to fix this, and re-uploaded it as 09_receiver_v2.stl

Thanks for catching this mistake.

Hi, part 11, the grip pin seems to be about 3mm -3.5mm too long

Hmm... Is it possible that your grip pin doesn't fit far enough into each grip? May take a little bit of force.

the pins are all the way in, i put them into the grip handle first and then the receiver on top and then the next grip handle.

I'll take a look at it this weekend, but for now you can just snip the grip pins or change the scale of it (it serves as a structural part, so it won't affect the appearance of the final product). Thanks for helping me catch these errors to make the piece more printable for everybody! :D

trimming the pins down worked for me. Onto the next issue, the trigger mechanism doesn't fit in the receiver, unless I'm doing something wrong?


Ah I should check that :(
The mechanism probably fit the original receiver.stl instead of receiver_v2.stl.

EDIT: I'd probably pause on the printing of the receiver/trigger area and go for the other parts like the scope. I'll fix this up, but I'll probably have to change the receiver file yet again.

all good, can't wait to have it all printed out

thanks, downloading it now :)

Amazing work!
Very inspiring,..