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PortedtoReality

Han Solo Blaster DL-44

by PortedtoReality Nov 25, 2016
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How hard would you say the assembly is? I’m sure I could figure it out but just wanted to know what u guys think. It would also help me greatly to include a time estimate for the assembly. Thank you

Terrific model. Has anyone yet tried to print only the pieces needed to add onto a replica Mauser, like a Denix or Airsoft?

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I must say that this is an awesome model! Kudos to you and the design! Top Notch! I do find it bad that people would try to profit from your design. I hope that people see the error of their ways.

Anyway, I just printed this off of my new I3 MK3S and was one of my first projects and it came out great!

Keep up the good work!

Great model, coming along nicely except for the flash hider, i keep having what seems to be either under extrusion or z scarring on the back end (rear of printer) of the top half. Im using Cura with a Prusa Mk2s. I thought it was my settings but a friend also tried printing it and had the same issue. Anyone else experiencing this? solutions?

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Has anyone added lights/sounds to this build? I'm thinking about using the electronics from this https://www.facebook.com/notes/star-wars-blaster-build-group/dl-44-resource-list/659000260928996 build and stuff them in to the print. I'm wondering if anyone else has done it and if it all fits?

I should also say, this is the greatest 3D print ever created, thank you! I'm waiting for the Greedo Killer version!

Great job mate this is awesome !!

Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed it!

Please anyone, I am brand new to 3D printing and I need a guide to teach me what I need to know so I can start printing my Star Wars armor and weapons. If anyone has the time to chat with me about anything they know it would be greatly appreciated. I know absolutely nothing and just got my first printrbot play. Please contact me at 7708567712. I do not know how to message on here. May the force be with you.

YouTube is your best friend. Just google some basics on how to get started and you're good to go! There'll be some obstacles and troubleshooting along the way, but in the end it'll all be worth it!

This is the most oustanding and amazing model of the DL-44 blaster i have come across. It was a joy to print, and the way everything fits together is unbelievable, a master class in 3D modeling. I hope in the future you will consider other blasters from the Star Wars Universe.

Do anyone tried to put a 18650 battery in the flashider? Seems like the only place to fit. Or any other ideo how to power an arduiono mini and some neopixel?

There's some space in the receiver and in the handle. I hollowed out as much as I can, and I think you might have to use an Arduino Mini or possibly even a Nano.

What orientation for the grill? That's my next part to print, but wouldn't it come out better to print vertically with supports too? In it's current orientation the print layering is really obvious, like printing a cylinder on its side or a sphere.

I think printing in its current orientation with a raft could help and at a SLOWER speed. Printing vertically with supports was really troublesome for me because the fins in the grill tore off with the supports but it could work for you. Let me know if it works out! Good luck!

Really cool, dude! Just started printing the first few pieces. Thank you for giving out your hundreds of hours of work and research for free. I can really appreciate that!

Enjoy! Feel free to share pictures your finished print when you're done!

For anyone who has successfully printed the grill, did you use a raft or print directly on the plate? Ive tried a raft but where the model contacted the raft was awfully distorted. Wasn't sure if it would stick without a raft though. Thanks

I just printed directly on plate in its current orientation.I think printing in its current orientation with a raft could help and at a SLOWER speed might work. You could also try printing at a 45 degree angle with supports or even vertically, but I haven't tried those. Let me know what works for you, and good luck!

I love this model so much. While building I was amazed by the detail and how the pieces fit together so perfectly. it's truly a work of art. Any chance you could post a version of this as a Mauser 96 replica? It looks like you would just need to post a new barral, the rest of the model would just work! Thank you very much for all your hard work on this!

Do i miss something? Like how to assemble it?

You did miss it, theres a pdf in the files section for assembly.

Hi. I have just finished my build.wow!! Like other comments I also had an issue with the build,but I changed mine loads.
I also didn't follow the rules on the look. This is only my second build,and my third attempt at using an airbrush. Everyone went for the normal look,I wanted mine to look like a 41 year old gun. I'm so damn pleased! I'm disabled, and building this has actually made me see that I do still have a few skills after breaking my back. Thanks to you all.

Hey stormtrooper72! I'm glad you enjoyed it! I hope to pick up some airbrush skills sometime in the near future because of how realistic the paint can get, especially with metal paints like those from Alcad (they actually have real metal flakes in their paints). Feel free to share pictures of your work - I always enjoy seeing how great everyone's model came out to be!

I'm confused by the installation of the Crossbar_Pin.

1st, are they supposed to go through the holes of the Receiver? Because the Hammer_Mechanism blocks one of the holes and the hole closest to the barrel has nothing to stop the Crossbar_Pin from falling through.

2nd, are the Crossbar_Pins diameter larger than the Crossbar_Spacer hole? As my spacers wont fit over the pins as depicted in the diagram.

Did you use the spacers? I went a bit wrong with my build also. I had more issues making the trigger housing fit. Kept snapping the elastic band. Great piece when finished though. I'm so pleased with mine.
Regards
Michael

I ended up using this trigger mechanism and a spring from a pen, more durable than the elastic over time:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3188568
That said, I had to file some of the upper barrell part that slides on from the back in order to get enough clearance to get it on. The original design is good, but this worked better for my purposes. other than that, the build was awesome

DL44 Trigger + misc upgrades/corrections

Wow!! My trigger didn't look like that,that's fantastic!

it works well but like I said, needs some filing to get things to fit..the maker mentions it in his instructions :)

I trimmed mine theyre too long as is

Yeah they're too long. My bad.

No worries! rest of the build is awesome

planning on spray painting, sanding, and giving it the worn look too. That said, would printing in .2 instead of .1mm layer height be fine because I plan on addressing minor detail flaws with the finishing work?

0.2 mm layer should be fine. I can tell the difference between 0.2 and 0.1 mm with raw prints, but I think after sanding and priming it'll be the same. You just save more time and sand paper if you print 0.1 mm to begin with.

Has anyone weighted this at all? I would like to give it some weight but Im not sure what to use or where to add it. The only open areas I can thjnk of are inside the scope and in the front half of the receiver where its empty but I worry it will feel off balance. Any suggestions?

Scope is really heavy. So it will feel off balance. You can add weights in the grip and receiver. You can get an estimate weight based on your density and volume calculations of all the parts in Simplify3D

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Enjoy! Feel free to share your finished model!

This is a very cool model and I am having fun putting it together. I printed it at 0.12mm layer height, so it took a total of 35+ hours to print, but the modeling it amazing!

Just a note to those looking at the photos for assembly guidance. It appears that the model assembled by BobaMaker is incorrect. As you look down the length of the blaster, the scope mount should stick out, opposite side of the barrel. In the attached photo, it's obvious that BobaMaker has connected the scope mount on the "inboard" of the scope frame. That is, he's put the scope closer to the barrel than it should be. If you do that, the scope mount will interfere with the top of the barrel and not sit horizontal. The photo and drawing in the PDF make it clear, but I was relying heavily on BobaMaker's photos at first. Luckily, I caught it before I started the glue-up.

Argh! I totallu glued the scope mount to the bottom bracket the wrong way. Its super tight. Guess I am reprinting those two parts tonight! Haha

Can I make from this files mauser c96?

How do you put it together?

There's a pdf file in the download section. It kind of shows you how parts fit together - but be sure everything fits before gluing stuff together with superglue (and the order of how things fit might not be correct in the pdf).

bonjour, super création, je suis en cours de fabrication. je rencontre un tout petit soucis avec le slicer s3d, il me fait un décalage sur le corps. j'ai essayé deux fois et toujours le problème.
d'autre personne ont rencontrées le probleme?
merci

Hello, great creation, I am in the process of manufacturing. I encounter a little trouble with the slicer s3d, it makes me a shift on the body. I tried twice and always the problem.
other people have encountered the problem?
thank you

I used Simplify3D to slice, and I have no problems.

Just gotta make all those attachment from "Solo" now!!! that'd be sick

is there a video on how to assemble it? im not the best at putting things together :P

It'd be great if someone were to make a video! I kind of stopped 3D printing altogether because I'm busy, but hopefully someone will make a video! Also, the pdf file in the downloads section shows how parts fit together.

This is such a great model, but I have a request. Will you also model the C96 with its original barrel, and with no holes in the front of the magwell and lower frame as well as no mystery disc?

That way, we'll all have a beautiful C96 base that we can print out, and we can do GK, ESB and ROTJ versions as well!

Anyone else having issues slicing the grill (part 20_grill)? I've tried multiple slicers and keep getting gaps in the walls. See attached photo for reference.

I simply used cura 0.1 settings with support.

Hi, I printed everything out and it seems that my whole gun is somehow mirrored compared to the one in the picture and guide. If I look down the scope, it's on the left side of the gun instead of the right like in the images. Does anyone know if the design got updated or if it's something I might of done. Thanks.

What slicer are you using? Cura does have a mirror function you might have accidentally used.

I was using sli3r, and I've never seen/used a mirror setting on that.

Hi guys which stand are you using with this model?

Would this work on a Monoprice mini-delta?

It looks like it, but the build area is ~110x120mm only. From looking at the parts it looks like most are smaller than that but I can't quite tell.

could you upload files with built in removable support?

Awesome build log! I'm glad you enjoyed this!

Awesome work. im going to start printing this soon. Where did you get the stand for it from? is this one of your STL files?

Not one of my STL files. I think maybe BobaMaker modeled it himself? Or it's floating around Thingiverse elsewhere?

My blaster is nearly finished. One change I made was in the trigger assembly. I went with a spring instead of a rubber band.

I did a spring as well, the trigger assembly could use a little modification. As it stands there's no clearance for either, and the trigger could either slowly chop away a rubber band, or get worn away by a spring. Perhaps a slot with a pin through it?

I'm looking at modifying it because I gutted a toy DL-44 (white and orange) to get the electronics from it so this one will make the blaster sound. I'm brand new at Fusion 360 so I'm not quite sure how to modify the body and trigger to fit the battery case and the tiny circuit card and speaker, but I think I can make it physically fit

Your paint Job is so perfect! and the weathering is awesome!

Everyone says to print the handle grips vertically, but I think I prefer the layer pattern when I print them horizontally.
This is a first test of Hatchbox wood PLA and some Minwax red mahogany stain. I like the layer effect, it looks like woodgrain to me.

Edit: Added photo of stained Hatchbox Wood PLA stained with Minwax Polyshades Oil Stain - Dark Mahogany.

Printing handle grips vertically makes them smoother, but I have to agree that the woodgrain-like effect on your horizontally printed handles look amazing!

This really does look great. Well done.

I downloaded this last weekend and I've been in the process of printing it for the past eight days (almost there!). So far this has been an absolutely amazing print, certainly the most impressive and well though out ones I've done to date.

My only criticism is that file 33_hammer mechanism needs to be renamed to 32_hammer mechanism....because I'm an idiot...and thought the file was missing...

A big thanks to PortedToReality for taking the time to research, draw this up, post it, edit it and curate it!

Are the crossbar pins too small for anyone else? I printed mine and they don't fit snugly with the spacers and aren't long enough to reach the thumbnuts.

Yeah, you might have to play with the scale, sanding, or filling. I think the width depends on the over/under extrusion of any one printer. So, some users might find parts fit very snugly while others might find parts fit very loosely.

My make. Painting isn’t done yet. I had a guy print it for me, so I’m not sure what printer he used. Most of it was printed on FDM but a few of the smaller parts were printed on SLA for detail.

Did you glue in the sightleaf or no?

Superglued and super happy with it.

tysm can't wait to finish it!

is the numbered aim..thingy (sightleaf) on the receiver supposed to easily fall out? should I glue it?

Yeah, I superglued it. I have no idea how the sightleaf fits on the real Mauser.

In the real Mauser C96 tangent sight there is a spring (sight spring) underneath the sight leaf up near the pivot ear. That applied the back pressure to stop the sight from flopping around.

The fact that they thought you could accurately hit something at 1000 meters with a pistol (even with the attached rifle stock) is pretty hilarious.

alright nice, did the same already, did I tell you what an amazing file this is btw, this is actually like, seriously amazing like change my life amazing.

Lol i asked the same thing the other day, but I have not gotten a reply back.

Not sure if this has been brought to your attention or if I'm just dumb, but part 2 does need support at least in the way its orientated for me. Otherwise fantastic model, but what parts should be glued and what shouldn't, should part 3 and 4 be glued onto the barrel, or does it need to slide. Thank you so much.

This model is absolutely amazing. I only have a few more parts to print before I upload my completed make. Thank you so much!

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First, I want to address the op with a big thank you for sharing such an accurate piece freely with the Thingiverse community. Gives people a much cheaper alternative than trying to piece one together. Second, lets address laws regarding replicas. United States federal law, only states that a replica/imitation firearm must be SOLD with an orange tip from the distributor. Legally, you can purchase the new tip at the SAME STORE, and put it on the firearm IN THE STORE, and you and the seller are both still on the right side of the law so long as it was sold separately. There is no law in the United States requiring you to paint your tip orange. For Christ sake the second amendment allows you to carry a REAL firearm, not just a 3D printed toy. Now, if you use it in the commiting of a crime, you will be charged with an "armed" felony as if it were a real gun. This is the only hang up. You can also by law MAKE your own real firearm in the United States... Now, as con rules go, each is set up by it's own staff and has it's own rules, but I don't recall ever seeing a single Han Solo cosplay that had an orange tip. They may be out there, but I've not seen them.

Forgot to mention point of view... This comes from an obscene amount of research before heavily modifying my own airsoft guns to look like they have actually been in active duty in the Middle East, and from knowing someone who is personally doing time for armed robbery at the end of an airsoft gun.

I am a California-based cosplay enthusiast and want to print parts 10 through 37 through a California-based 3DHubs service. What are California laws regarding 3D printing cosplay weaponry via 3DHubs? I want to finish my project but don't want to break the law. I don't have a 3D printer at home.

If in public, I think the laws are pretty much the same as Airsoft replica gun laws in California -- just tell you to color the tip of the gun orange. You can print whatever you want through 3DHubs as the printer providers are basically independent contractors (printing hobbyists like the rest of us). As always, check your comic convention rules before bringing any cosplay weapons to the event. I'm not lawyer and don't really do cosplay, so you might want to ask friendly cosplayers near you. Have fun!

3DHubs states that "For imitation/non-functional weapons used as props for costumes or cosplay it is the responsibility of the Hub/Manufacturing Partner and Customer to judge whether the weapon breaches local legislation. Under Dutch law it is illegal to own/possess/use/manufacture imitation/non-functional weapons without the required licenses." I'm definitely not the only cosplayer who has had this question so I am hoping that for a Los Angeles-based Hub it is fine to print the remaining pieces.

That statement is there for liability reasons so 3DHubs doesn't get sued -- same concept as to why California labels everything that causes cancer.

Hi
I'm in the middle of making this at the moment. Just wanted to say this is one of the best models I've come across. Many thanks for making it available.

I made a small change to part 16 to:

  1. Add a tab to the top side front of the trigger.
  2. Add two pins to seat a microswitch on; hence the tab above
  3. Shaved a bit off the front to allow more room for electronics in the front of gun.

Parts 15 and 16 are labelled the wrong way round in the build guide by the way.

I'll add an "I made one" once I have completed the build.

Thanks.

Nick.

Nick,

Are your modded parts available?

Thanks!
David

Hi

I'd completely forgotten about this.

I've uploaded it for you.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3037571

Nick.

DL44 Trigger Assembly

Hey! You're welcome. I'm glad you liked the model. If you want, you could share that part 16 that you modified as a 'Remix' so others can use it too. Thanks!

Anyone have dimensions on this? Custom making a holster for it.

Is there a reference for installing the rubber band for the trigger, it’s still printing so I haven’t gotten there yet, just need an idea when it gets finished

There's a picture in the guide.

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bonjour,
Je viens de voir sur Ebay cette personne qui vend des impressions 3D avec vos plans et notice de montage. Je ne sais pas si vous êtes la même personne mais je préfère vous alerter.


Hello,
I just saw on Ebay this person who sells 3D prints with your plans and assembly instructions. I do not know if you are the same person but I prefer to alert you.

https://www.ebay.fr/itm/KIT-STARWARS-HAN-SOLO-DL-44-37-PIECES-BLASTER-1-1-IMPRESSION-3D-PLA-COSPLAY-PROP-/273020350378?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

Hello,

Thanks for notiying me. I DO NOT profit from this design and I DO NOT sell printed products. And I DO NOT want anyone to be selling this for profit. This design is FREE -- please, go ahead and print this for yourself, your friends, and your family and share in the exciting hobby that is 3D printing. However, please DO NOT SELL this design and please don't take credit for work that is not your own. I know there are over a dozen people selling these dozens across eBay and Etsy, and there is no way for me to track and shut them down. However, I am happy to know that the rest of you are enjoying my FREE design and sharing it with your friends. Happy printing, everybody! :)

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You are very welcome :)

What kind of filament do you recommend to have something nice and solid-feeling?

PLA is the easiest to print (less warping) and is pretty durable. However, if you really want your model to shine, you have to sand, use filler, paint, and seal it to look amazing as some of models that other users have made. I think if you want it to feel heavy and solid-feeling, you'd have to put some weights in this or brush it in resin. Also, superglue does a good job of making everything less wobbly.

Thanks! Much obliged.

I note that you said you designed this In Fusion 360. Would you be willing to share the Fusion Fd3 file? I would love to take a look at the assembled model, and make a few tweaks of my own... cause I cant leave anything well enough alone. Plus I have a CNC Mill and lathe, and I kinda wanna make the flash from metal.

I'm really digging this model. Awesome work. However, I did have some issues. Firstly the sight leaf and sight knob. It was really difficult getting the knob on, so I thought it might be a good idea to consider making the sight leaf and sight knob one part instead of two. The other problem is the grip pin. I found that it's too long. Aside from that, really great work.

Thanks for pointing that out. The design was modeled to have tight tolerances because it's easier to sand down parts rather than account for all the different variances across printers. I did consider making the sight leaf and sight knob as one part, but print quality may be compromised. I'm really just a newbie to 3D modeling, and I haven't really touched it much in the past year or two -- I may not even have time anymore because of school. Glad you enjoyed this!

Dude, if this is "newbie" work, then I'd really like to see when you get good at it! This is seriously good work.

So I'm downloading this print and while doing so I noticed that number 13 was missing. Am I missing something there or is that how its supposed to be?

I miscounted and accidentally skipped 13.

are the print dimensions for each piece available? I got a XYZ DaVinci jr for christmas and it can only print 5.9 x 5.9 x 5.9 inch pieces

You'll be able to print every piece. The scope can be printed in two parts instead of one (print 23_scopeA and 23_scopeB instead of 23_scope)

Thanks I enjoyed making it

The scope frame overlaps the grill. Is it supposed to cant outward and sit on top? The picture makes it seem that way. If that is the case is the back of the frame supposed to be moved out to even the 2 ends?

There's a gap between the scope frame and the grill because of the slight tapering of the receiver (the receiver gets slightly thinner as you move from the trigger to the front of the receiver). So, the scope frame is held by the pins through the receiver and sits on top/in front of the grill. If I remember correctly, the scope frame doesn't need to be in contact/glued to the grill.

Hi! Firstly, thank you so much for putting the effort in to building this.

On to the problem I've encountered: When attempting to slide the top receiver (part 1) onto the lower receiver (part 9) while the trigger mech is installed (parts 15, 16, 17), the top receiver can't slide all the way in.

I've looked inside while attempting to do the assembly and it appears the top part of the trigger mech is stopping the middle bar of the top receiver from fulling sliding forward. It's approx 2mm to high.

I've also had a look at the made pages here and I've noticed a lot of people who've had this problem and haven't noticed. It's why their hammers are always stuck in the half cocked position, because the top receiver is 1cm further back than it should be.

I had to shave my trigger mechanism down to get the slide to move up enough.

Thanks for pointing this out! I'll try and fix that in the coming months when I return to this hobby.

This is awesome! Where did you find the dimensions for all the parts? What software did you create it in?

Thanks! Dimensions were from all over the place. Some from forums like the Replica Prop Forum and a few firearms forums. Everything was modeled in Autodesk Fusion 360, which is free and easy to learn.There are plenty of tutorials on YouTube if you want to get started modeling. This was one of my first real projects, so I'm still very much a beginner.

you mean the fusion 360 free trial? pretty sure you pay for that.

Fusion 360 is free for students, educators, and enthusiasts (what we are categorized as). It is also free if you run a small business that makes less than $100,000. You can see how to activate the free license here:

https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/How-to-activate-start-up-or-educational-licensing-for-Fusion-360.html

oh, well thank you very much my good man.

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is it just me or does the sight not fit onto the b arrel very well?

Mine was friction fit, but it came loose after awhile. I just superglued it.

like the bit with the weird slider

I just wanted to write and thank you for the most amazing model, and above all for the priceless assembly guide! It's people like you that make 3D printing fun for people like me! :)

There have been a few mentions of parts being the wrong size (grip pins) and the trigger assembly not fitting for some reason, etc, and all those apply for me too. - But I'd also like to add, that the orientation of part 36, or "thumbnut middle" isn't optimal. Flipping it over (180 degrees) gives a nice flat bottom with a small hole that tapers in a smart way to allow printing without supports. - The original way ends up with a messy hollow area.

Oh, and I'll second using rafts for the grill and the scope clips!

I'll have to give printing the handles vertically a shot, as I was unhappy with the surface quality on my first attempt.

Thanks Hoffa!

This was one of my earliest projects, and I'm a total beginner when it comes to 3D modeling and 3D printing. I'm sure there are several errors in this project, but I think people generally find their way around them like you are. At the moment, I'm busy with school and life, so I haven't had much time for this hobby, but hopefully in a few months I'll be back at it again.

Several others have printed handles vertically, and it will definitely give you a better surface finish, but I was worried with some beginners that might have trouble with it falling over because of the small surface area to the print bed.

Good luck on the print, and I hope this inspires you to create more stuff!

Fixes for the parts table in the assembly manual:

Part 21. Magazine_Floorplate - Support YES (required for the T-section)
Part 32. Hammer_Mechanism - Support YES (required for the two T-sections on the sides)

Part fixes required:

Part 11. Part is approx 4 mm too long.
Part 18. Parts are too thin. The one that goes in the back is too long because it bumps into part 32.

Thanks for finding these fixes! I added them to the notes above.

Thanks for the great model! Is it just me, or the grill fins on the model seem to be a tad too long?

I spent a long time examining references for the grill fins, and I think this is as close as it gets. But if they're too long for your preferences, it may be possible to sand them down.

What an absolutely beautifully designed model! Thank you so much for this, it's been a joy to print. The only problem I have run into is part 11, the Grip_Pin. It seems to be too long, causing the left and right grips to not seat properly on the receiver. Is this a problem others have experienced or am I just missing something? Thanks again, I'll be sure to post my print when I'm done!

Yes, they are too long. Just cut off 4 mm of each. I also found the part 18 (crossbar pin) too be too long (the one that goes in the back) and too thin.

Hey there! I just wanted to say I have always wanted this iconic prop from Star Wars and when I got my 3d printer, the DL-44 was something I knew I had to print. I spent some time looking at the files, looking at the details, the quality of build, and out of all the blasters like this on Thingiverse, I don't think the quality of this build can be matched. You did a great job, and I am still working on the paint job on mine, but it was a super easy print, a super easy build, and other than some tweaking for the length of the posts for the scope mount, and 16 hours of sanding the PLA. I love this model. Thank you so much for sharing this beautiful work.

Thanks! I'm confident that this is the most accurate 3D-printable DL-44 to date. The hardcore Star Wars fan might notice that it's extremely accurate, but it's still missing some details. However, these details are difficult to print: most notably the sight greeblies (too fragile and kept breaking), markings on the scope (many variants to the WWI German scope, and they won't appear well unless you use a resin printer), reticule and lens for the scope, and maybe some other small details that will just forever be a mystery because of the lack of good reference photos. Anyway, I hope you post your finished model when you're done! I love seeing how amazing some people paint and weather their props!

You are very welcome, and I concur! Sure, there were a few things missing like you mentioned. I would be tempted to try and to engrave the markings on the scope because I do not have a resin printer, and when I build another one of these a little down the road, I already have a few ideas to fake optics, and I may want to take advantage of what looks like some really clever design on your part to add lights and sound. I swear an LED will fit right in the flash suppressor and has a clear line all the way to the main body. This first one will probably end up in a shadow box I am working on for some of the iconic weapons from the films, and I am planning to display this one with the Princess Leia Defender Sporting Blaster from April Storm. I hope you don't mind, I have spent a LOT of time looking at the models for this, and have learned so much I want to apply to my own designs. I hope to finish the paint this week, and I will be glad to have my print on display with the others.

Ah yes! I'd like to see someone put in electronics -- I'm pretty sure I modeled enough space in the receiver and magazine chamber for you to put an an Arduino microcontroller, Li-Po battery, speakers, and possibly a laser/LED. In previous versions of the model, I had some space in the grip as well, but I had issues with the grip cracking when waving the model around. I really hope to embed light and sound in my next blaster!

This is my first independent 3D print. I have a couple pieces left to print, but I definitely learned a lot in the process. I highly recommend using a raft to print a few of the pieces like the scope clips and grill (or any other part that needs supports for that matter). I printed the barrel with no supports and it turned out just fine. I'll post pics when I get it assembled and painted. Thanks for posting this. I can't wait for the next project.

How did you go about painting this? Especially the flash suppressor, which has such fine little grooves

I would sand all the rough edges and prime the entire thing with gesso first. Then spray/hand paint the parts in colours that you want. For weathering I would dry brush silver for scratches. for dirt and grime weathering I would use either chalk dust (or weathering powder) or ink washes, with dry brush touch ups.

The flash hider is just printed in silver with some black acrylic painted on with a foam brush and wiped away to fill in the little grooves. If you want a more metallic look, you can get some Rub n Buff compound to give your filament a metallic sheen or look into Alcad's airbrush paints. I don't have any good experience painting, so you might want to Google weathering/painting tutorials.

What is the empty "slot" or "groove" on the back of "09_receiver_v4". I've printed all of the pieces, including 09_receiver and 09_receiver_v4 to ensure that I had the right one, but nothing seems to complete this section

On the 'real' pistol, it was for a butt stock. It would slide into the pistol grip and allow a shoulder brace to steady the pistol.

If you're talking about the groove/slot between the wood grips of the handle, it's there on the real Mauser C96 that Han Solo's Blaster is based off of. I have no idea what function it has.

http://www.deactivated-guns.co.uk/images/uploads/1C96/1c96-031249_4.jpg

At 13:30 in this video he has the full mauser with stock/case. And shows how it is assembled. Its a great video for replica makers.

The mystery groove explained

https://youtu.be/AsyY6RZDM9I

Wasn't happy with the surface finish quality of the rib detail on the grips after many attempts at printing them in the supplied orientation. Finally decided to stand them upright with minimal custom supports (thank you, Simplify3D) with much better results.

Good tip, I too was unhappy with the orig result. I tried upright and now they look much better.

Cool! I'm glad it worked out for you. I was considering orienting it vertically, but I was worried some people might have their print falling down. Also, if you sand the grips, they come out smooth in the end anyway.

Some would have trouble, I'm sure. Horizontal, it seemed like no matter what I did with temp and speed (in Cura and S3D), I'd end up with stringing and melty patches along the upper crest of the curve. Sanding took care of some of it, but then I lost some ridge height too. I also had to do some digging to get warts out of the grooves. Whatever works!

Awesome model!
I got my printer 3 days ago and this is my first "project" on it.
One thing I encountered is the orientation of the 05_boltStop. I use simplify3d and when I load the boltStop it is balance on the "curved" side thus not sticking on my board.
I turned it -90 on x axis and it works fine now.

So far great work on this blaster. Everything is printing beautifully.
My machine Prusa i3 Mk2. One note is on the scope(23). For me it comes in on its side(horizontally). Of course not an ideal orientation to print. Easy enough fix to rotate it, but sadly to tall(216mm) for my machine(200mm). Might be a good idea to have an alternate version that is split with the seam hidden under one of the scope mounts.
Thanks again

Glad you liked it! Thanks for catching that! I didn't even know the scope was oriented horizontally! Making an alternate version of the scope is definitely a good idea. I'll work on that this weekend. It'll be nice to see a picture of how your print comes out, and if you do some paint/weathering on it as well.

Yeah so I rebuilt the scope in fusion 360 and split it just before the second mount hole and this allows the seam to be hidden under the mount. I have already printed it and it works out perfectly. And yes I will definitely be fully completing this with paint/weathering and posting here the results. Thanks again for the great work, you saved me a lot of time.

Wadoman1, do you have the stl files for the split scope?

wanting to reprint mine vertially for a better finish.

I do have the .stl files.
I just published the files on here.

Really nice looking replica. I'm having trouble fitting what you call the barrel to receiver v3 (was the same on v2) the groove in the "barrel" isn't large enough to accept the receiver (z axis). I've filed away the excess on my v2 but it was still a tight fit and then had the trouble with the trigger not fitting and was hoping v3 might be better but seems the same size.

I wanted mine to be a snug fit, but it's good to know how it prints on other people's printers. I'll work on some changes -- I'll probably change the tolerance to 0.3 or 0.4 mm between the barrel and receiver in a way that's hopefully not loose.

Fantastic! Really is a great model. I've already made my barrel adapter to flash suppressor fit but that was a very tight fit on my print as well. I ended up chucking it up in my lathe and turning it down 20-30 thousandths.

I looked back at my files and saw that the barrel and receiver were definitely problematic. However, the barrel adapter and flash hider should fit fine (I've printed flash hiders and barrel adapters recently). Do 0.2 tolerances work for press-fit parts for you? And 0.3 tolerances for sliding parts? I thought these were the "standard" tolerances and would work fine, but maybe this standard changed?

I'm pretty new to 3d printing so not sure what the usual tolerance should be. I've just had to do a lot of drilling and filing to get parts to fit. Seems like if I'm glueing them anyway I'd rather have them too loose than too tight. Might be I'm just getting poor print quality and making things tight.

Ah, the usual tolerance is 0.2 mm for press-fit and 0.3 mm for sliding parts. If your parts come out "fuzzy," you'll need a looser tolerance or just drill, file, and sand like you are doing now. The end product will be worth it :D

ok, thanks for the responses.

this was a really tight fit for me, even after filing the crap out of the slots on the barrel for more than 30 minutes

This looks amazing. I'm going to start printing it up tomorrow. I've made two other DL-44 models, but this looks like the kind of challenge and detail I have wanted.

This is pretty accurate down to "Replica Prop Forum" precision unlike the model that you downloaded and painted (but that model is definitely easier to print). I got ahold of exact measurements from an existing Mauser C96 and MG42 flash hider, and I think I have a close estimate for the Hensoldt Wetzler German scope based on pictures. However, a thing to keep in mind is that there were different manufacturers for Mauser C96s (Chinese and Russian primarily), and it seems there were several variants of MG42 flash hiders throughout World War II. Basically, this is the most accurate you can get in short of having your hands on the real hero prop.

It's also not that difficult to print besides the grill, but that can be printed at a slower speed as indicated in my visual assembly guide. I'm not the best painter, but based on your work, I really hope you can show all of us a professional paint job :D

this is incredible, starting to print now, thank you

Thanks! Also, I just updated the receiver model to have added strength and the "mystery disc" detail - it's labeled 09_receiver_v2.stl and is also included in the dl44_stl.zip file, so make sure you print the better version :D

Hi, is the mystery disc meant to be not all the way round?
http://imgur.com/XMedscB
http://imgur.com/ZKh4aAR

edit;

repaired the file with https://makeprintable.com

:-| My bad.

I checked when I sliced the file that there was enough material - it's possible that my slicer settings made it come out okay, but everyone's slicer settings are different.

To make this easily printable across different slicer settings, I edited the file by giving the receiver more thickness to fix this, and re-uploaded it as 09_receiver_v2.stl

Thanks for catching this mistake.

Hi, part 11, the grip pin seems to be about 3mm -3.5mm too long

Hmm... Is it possible that your grip pin doesn't fit far enough into each grip? May take a little bit of force.

the pins are all the way in, i put them into the grip handle first and then the receiver on top and then the next grip handle.

I'll take a look at it this weekend, but for now you can just snip the grip pins or change the scale of it (it serves as a structural part, so it won't affect the appearance of the final product). Thanks for helping me catch these errors to make the piece more printable for everybody! :D

trimming the pins down worked for me. Onto the next issue, the trigger mechanism doesn't fit in the receiver, unless I'm doing something wrong?

http://imgur.com/xV45FHo

Ah I should check that :(
The mechanism probably fit the original receiver.stl instead of receiver_v2.stl.

EDIT: I'd probably pause on the printing of the receiver/trigger area and go for the other parts like the scope. I'll fix this up, but I'll probably have to change the receiver file yet again.

all good, can't wait to have it all printed out

thanks, downloading it now :)

Amazing work!
Very inspiring,..