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Leo_N

Anet A8 X-Carriage Mounts

by Leo_N Nov 28, 2016
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Sorry i don't get it, how this disc think will help align the threaded rod ? can someone explain it to me ?

Comments deleted.

thank you so much !

This moddel no longer fits the new Anet A8s, the space between the rods is incorrect. This moddel works,
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2745187.

AM8 X Axis Holders

Why do you say that?

Because the space between the rods has changed in the last years. So instead of people printing this and it not fitting use a more recent one which fits better.

What are the dimensions on your A8?

would love to have the file modded so I could use zyltech antibacklash nuts on it, anyway of doing that? thanks Kevin H

i feel like there sould be a warning, or at least a size indication
the mounts printed are way too narrow, they look exactly the same as the old ones just the rods are slightly more appart in the stock mount, printed this and checkedm it didnt fit at all, the ZX joiner i printed is 2-3mm too close and the rods will be more close than they should, my bearings cant move that much so its a wasted print, shoulda put a warning on that as ive seen in the comments its happened many times, and its way too much work to import it into fusion to check dimensions, i expected it to work as its for the anet a8, who woulda thought there were different spacings for them
basically any way to re-use the parts? drilling them out is not an option as theres not much material left on that side, truly a shame to have wasted 120g of plastic on this and it not working, and its frustrating as your models work so well on my anet but this one didnt

id love it if there was a revision (of the v1) with a 54.2mm spacing as thats the spacing (outer edge to outer edge) of the rods (around 46.2 centre to centre i think) on this version of the a8
cause its the only thing and editing the stl with fusion is almost impossible, but you have the original sketches so you can just change a dimension (if youre working with fusion360)
the design is amazing and the rest of the parts should work but the rod spacing doesnt, and theres no space to "shrink" the carriage to make it fit, its about 2mm off

or perhaps i could get the original sketch (if fusion) and re-make it with the correct sizes, maybe even make it parametric (i dont know the exact dimensions of everything, and theres no easy way to measure the stl in fusion
i have the skill to re-make it but measuring the parts from my printer will take many iterations, your parts are perfectly dialed in (it seems) and thats some amazing work, only need to adjust the spacing to 54.2mm

or perhaps i could get the original sketch (if fusion) and re-make it with the correct sizes, maybe even make it parametric (i dont know the exact dimensions of everything, and theres no easy way to measure the stl in fusion
i have the skill to re-make it but measuring the parts from my printer will take many iterations, your parts are perfectly dialed in (it seems) and thats some amazing work, only need to adjust the spacing to 54.2

Please read the "Summery" carefully.

I've added a picture to show the distance of the two guide rods with these brackets but I really don't think it will help much.

I've 31 recorded makes and who knows how many more who didn't post. No complaints from them....

hi there. I measured my A8, which, i think, is a 2016 or 2017 model. it has just about 46.2mm spacing in the rods.

I'm designing a remix with 46.2mm rod spacing.

i had a problem with the stock ones that came with the printer, the right side "squished" the rods together causing drag at the right end, is this solved in this design? if so i cant wait to print them, as thats a main problem i have right now, the rods arent perfectly parallel and vary the load on the bearings

Both sides have the same dimensions so the rods will be parallel. This assumes of course that the rods themselves are not bent.

nice! thanks for the quick reply too!
theyre probably not bent, just the plastic part was crap to begin with but this should fix it, theyre straight but just not parallel
will try it out!

hi Leo, I printed them the PLA are perfect but I do not find myself with the distance of the holes and bring me a narrowing on the sides of the X bars that do not slide the cart! How can I solve? thank you

Try loosening the 3 linear bearings on the extruder bracket and then re-tightening them.

ok I try, even if they have no movement because I have a carriage printed for e3dv6

Can anybody help me out modifying these to fit my bigger threaded rod nuts? They are of such great quality, that I`d love to use them... They have a diameter of 26mm for the holder-screw-drillings

What type of bearings do these use? The balls fell out of my stock one and they don't slide great, so I will probably just need to buy new ones to use with these. Thanks for making them!

igus drylin for weight reduction. you can also print bushings, people have really good success with that.

I have some from Igus, the 8mm RJ4JP ones. They work great :)

If printing these parts in ABS did you find that you needed any size compensation for shrink?

Mine are printed in PLA so I can't comment on ABS.

Ok, thanks. We'll see how it goes. Any shrink may be negligible.

i printed everything, but i have an issue, i have problems with the smallest bearings and the entrance for the screw on the tenssioner itself...compatibility issues, and downloading a sketch for gt2 2mm pulley its sized 20mm height...so what type of pulley did you use? it seems to be small bearing like?

I used GT2 16 teeth 3mm hole pulleys with bearing which I got from eBay.

Do you think it's possible to enlarge holes to fit lm10uu bearings? (19mm outer diameter)

my carriages not line in AM8. Any idea what can be happening? my guides shaft z has 436mm

It looks to me as if the shafts are not completely inserted. Make sure the walls of the holes inside the carriages are clean. I would also recommend you slightly bevel the shaft ends.

Of course the assumption is that your printer has the SAME dimensions as the Anet A8!

Leo, I check and rods are fully inserted. to work out with the project am8 fitting Rod would have to be more background as marked in the picture below. already tried everything is this would be the only way to work out. you think?

The rod must tough the side of the left black line. Same goes for the other carriage.

I roughly measured my rods inside to inside. Are you close to the measurement?

Sorry for taking the time to respond, my measurements on the AM8 are different

Comments deleted.

They won`t fit on an AM8. I have the same issue. They will be about 5-6mm to wide

Comments deleted.

Please i possible to send step file of these models? or upload step files here?

Does anyone have these parts with the correct distance between rods for the tronxy p802ma?

So I'm looking at photo 3 and 5 on the slide and noticed 3 don't have that rectangle hole above and below the middle cut out. What was the purpose for that? I think it weakens the bottom part of the top 8mm hole.

In Photo 3 you are seeing the tensioner mounted to the carriage mount. Photo 5 shows the tensioner only. Two different items with different purposes.

See the attached photo to clarify what I'm asking about.

OK.

You will have to ask Anet. The first Anet versions of the printed carriage mounts came with those slots.I put them in my design for compatibility.

Before you download and print this, check the distance between the x axis smooth rods that you have, and compare it to the values for this. I found that there was a 1.75mm difference between this mount and the anet supplied mounts. This means that the x axis bearings will bind due to the holes in the extruder mount not being the correct distance. It may be that Anet drill and print the parts bespoke to each printer... which also means the tolerances can be large between different printers.
You may have to make 4 of the x axis bearing holes on the extruder mount more oval or slotted to accommodate the different distance.

woops, too late, but why is this? shouldnt it fit the anet? ive printed them out and i was sure it would fit, apparentrly nope and ive wasted 100g of plastic and 6hs or print time

Does this fit the AM8 rebuild? I'm currently getting Z axis binding and I can't figure out why.

From I can tell is that the AM8 has a leadscrew to smooth rod spacing of 22.2mm while this holder is spaced to be 22mm. It's a small difference but I do not think it will cause any issue.

Can I use only carriage mounts without belt tensioner??

Yes, you can.

Can you remove the depreciated files?

Which files do you consider depreciated?

I printed these and i have a slight problem. The spacing between the 2 rods at each end is 53.11mm (outside to outside) but when the carriage is in the middle it measures 53.6mm. This make the carriage very tight to move on each end. Is this because the parts did not print right or is my print head mount bearings too far a part?
EDIT: So on the ends that makes it 45.2mm center to center. I'll try and adjust the bearing blocks on the hot end mount. I think it makes sense to do that when the carriage is all they way left or right?

Yes, you will need to readjust the bearing blocks. But do the adjustment only where the carriage will actually get to.

Comments deleted.

OK, I am the idiot one! How do you get the bearings( from the stock brackets ) - into the printed brackets?

About resistance, is PLA enough or ABS is required?

PLA is fine unless you want to put the printer into an enclosure. Then use ABS.

Has anyone had an issue where the distance from the T8 lead screw and the smooth rod on the carriage is 1mm less than the distance from the smooth rod hole in the acrylic and the T8 coupler? Making it so that my whole carriage can't glide smoothly.

Have anyone tested those on AM8 ?i guess they will work but asking to be sure

UPDATE.

I must have done something wrong, because the print is just a hair off in, well, everything. I had to go back to the old parts, and ruined bearings in the process. I regret trying....

I'm trying now. I'm hitting a snag, with the stepper motor side being a bit off. It's making it too tight travel in the z axis. I may have to drill some....carefully. had a bearing ball fall out, so I'll have to replace that. Luckily, um replacing the x and y with ingus, so I'll cobble something together.

Forgot to reply , they dont find the AM8 mounts

Did you mean fit? I'm encountering a z axis bind. Not sure if it's just that the mount doesnt work for this or if I've done something wrong on my end.

Yes they bind threaded rod to smooth rod dimentions are different from the older A8 printers(which AM8 i based)

Hello

Thx a lot for your Upload. Works Perfect.
I have a Question, can u make the screw hole 18mm?
I can't change it. And my new screw nut is 18mm. Can u help me Please.

What is the best way to print them? Like in the STL-file or do I have to rotate them?

Look at the last two pictures in the slideshow...

Those are Z carriages, not idlers.
The idler is the pulley that is inside the right carriage.

Took nearly a year for someone to notice it. You win a free virtual beer from yours truly :-)

Mmmm.... beer...
I'm actually about half way through printing your front panel brace... 9 hours so far... it says another 7.5 to go, but hard to say.

Help I printed these of for my Anet A8
Took my printer to bits only to find that the spacing between the threaded rod and smooth rod was misalignment by 0.5cm has anyone else had this issue and if so how did you work round it thanks in advance but great design thanks

Thank you very much for these models. My printer is so much more solid now. The cheap white z idlers that came with the A8 never felt right and the x guide rods slipped at least 3 or 4 mil on the rods so everything was getting way out of wack. Your idlers are 100 times better especially with the x-axis tensioner. Love it. You say these are not a must print, but I respectfully disagree. Every A8 should have these idlers.

I'm glad to read you find them useful :-)

ive got a very new version of the a8 which has slightly updated adler mounts but its causing me agro with the e3d x carriage , is this the size mount for the older pre 2017 model ?? if so these may do the trick for me as the holes for the x carriage bars are closer together than what mine would be in the older style

I don't know if the newer printers are different but I doubt it.

My idlers have a distance of 45mm (center from rod to rod).

Outer to outer the new ones are 55mm , they are a new injection modded design and from research are a slightly different size although it's not much it's enough to stop some x carriages fitting

Nice! Do you think it is better to use 2 little bearing or only one big in the center?

Two small ones as far apart as possible would be the best solution.

Leo I'm in the middle of assembling with the new idlers but when I put the right idler on the verticle smooth rod on the right is too far out by just a few mm. I've checked to make sure that both of the X horizontal rods are fully inserted. I also noticed that the 2 holes for the rods don't go all the way through on the right idler like the originals did. Should I drill them all the way through to get it to fit? The printer is well dialed in amd all the parts came out perfect so I'm at a bit of a loss here. Oh and the rods are exactly the size you indicated.

I had exactly the same problem, I just drilled the left idler a few mm deeper and all is good. The rods not going all the way through the right idler is fine, if you use the belt tensioner the screws rest on the ends of the rods putting all the belt tension strain on the left idler and not on any of the vertical rods.

Yup I did exactly the same thing. I have the "2017" version of the Anet A8 and you know they like to make little design changes lol but thanks for letting me know I'm not the only one. At the moment I'm using my old tensoner but I'll br printing the one listed here

If your rods are exactly as I described then you most likely have debris in the holes so that the rods are not going all the way to the end of the idlers. Did you bevel / burry the edges of the rods before inserting them into the idlers like I described?
I any case you can use a clean 8mm drill to clean up the holes. Remember you want a tight fit so the rods don't have any movement.
That the holes don't go through is by design. That is one of the main points for designing these. That way people can't press the idlers close together otherwise too may forces act on the guide rods.

Leo I'll check for debris in the holes but both rods extend exactly the same length and the rods were already beveled. Before assembly I ran a drill bit in and didn't really get anything out of them but I didn't really examine them. Ok I'll pull everything apart and let you know. Thanks for the quick reply!

I made a tool for these to make bearing install super easy. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2430285 Thanks Leo!

PLONK the Plucky Little Bearing Tool

Fantastic! :-)

Thank you very much for you work. It came out of the printer without support (haven't expected this ;-) )
8mm holes only needed a little drilling.
Now riding my Z axis smoothly on Igus bushings (2 on each side). This was not possible with the stock idlers, because the bushings jammed on the rods. Wobbling is significantly better now.
This was one of the last tweaks on my to do list and now my A8 is getting to play in the pro league :->

Glad to read. Enjoy.

Now I wanted to add the tensioner, but the legs/rods break easily when printing them with the legs upwards. Any recommendation how to make them sturdier ? Tried settings: 0.2 and 0.28, Infill 25, PLA at 200 and 210/60 with full fan. It might be a cooling problem, because they always break around 3 mm above the "ground". I use the mistral duct and normally don't have any problems. Concentric thin and tall structures tend to break easily, but maybe you have more experience than me ;-)

I really don't know where to help. Normally with PLA you need some force to snap them off. Maybe a filament quality problem?

^^ My extruder lever is worn out and the extruder doesn't feed constantly anymore.... Glump, verreckts ;-)

After fixing it came out great ;-)

Leo - I consider "beefing up" an AM8 upgrade, and thereby using 12mm smooth rods instead of 8mm.
That will of course also require modifications to the Z axis motor mounts and Y axis rod holders - but these are not as complex as the X idlers...
What did you use for designing the idlers? Will it be possible to request the original files to use as inspiration for a new design?

I do my designs with 123D Design. You are free to use the .stl files.

Leo my apologies. I quite looking at the pictures when I got to the ones of the tensioner since I have one that already works. I usually pride myself in reading all details and even studing every comment to try and not ask stupid questions but in this case I goofed..... sorry my friend...

No problem :-)

In this case it was so obvious that I had to rant.

Leo since you are not using any supports to print these could you please describe the orientation that you used to print the idlers?
BTW I've used many of your items and they are always great!!

RANT ON
It's frustrating because I try to put as much detail to my descriptions as possible and post pictures that should make things clear :-/
RANT OFF

Look at the last picture. You will see it stating how the idler is positioned on the build plate :-)

Enjoy!

The X-Idler_bolt_Tool - what is that being used for (where) ? The disc is more or less obvious, it can be seen on the photos ;-)

It is used to press the LM8LUU bearing deeper into each idler so they are centered in each idler. Leo recommends this in his instructions, I think it may help.

Hello Leo_N so I am a little confused by all the files list and which ones to print for my needs so here is what I printed :

X-Idler_bolt_Tool
X-Idler_Disc
X_Idler_Left Channel
X_Idler_Right_Tensioner
X_Idler_Right_V1.1

I have a factory Anet setup and have not changed any of the belts or pulley's I am printing new ones because I have to break my plastic injected ones to disassemble my printer and install igus bearings

do I have all the correct files? and also can I use igus bearings in these pieces over the stock rollers?

thank you for your time

From my experience you will need the X-Idler_bolt_Tool, X_Idler_Right_Tensioner, X_Idler_Right_V1.1 and X_Idler_Left_V1.1. You may need two if the X-Idler_Disc if you have problem with lead screw alignment or binding. The X-Idler_bolt_Tool is used to put the right and left linear bearings to the center of each idler. This makes thing work much better.

do you know the difference between X_Idler_Left_V1.1 and X_Idler_Left Channel?

all I can see is different endstop location and the channel for the wires

but they still function the same correct?

Well said PapaJohn,

@Daltoncnc:
That is correct. Version 1.1 has the endstop location on top. Another version of the idler has a channel for wires.
The difference of the X_Idler_Right and X_Idler_Right_V1.1 is only cosmetic.
You're safe with whatever version you print. It's just a matter of reference in what you need.

X_Idler_Right and X_Idler_Right_V1.1 look the same?

Okay thanks Leo last question do you have experience on putting the igus bearings in the mounts you created?

No because I do not recommend putting igus bearings on the x-idlers. One of the main reasons is that igus bearings are not designed to be press fitted.
Using the igus with the bearing mounts found on the heat bed and/or the extruder carriage is ok.

Hi Leo,
sorry to say, but Igus bearings are designed to be Installed by force fitting. ( http://www.igus.eu/wpck/2293/drylin_r_rjm_01?C=DE&L=en ).

By the way, your designes are really great. As I have one of the older Anets I have the problem with the wrong distance between smooth and threaded rod. Until today I use zip-ties instead of screws to eliminate the problem. Tomorrw I'll give your idlers a try.

I'm sorry Moo.... Those are different ones, not the ones we use with our printer.

Thanks for the compliments and good luck with the printed idlers.

thank you Leo for this great work.
What should be the distance between the 2 x rods? (From inner to inner Diameter)

Thank you :)

My idlers have 45mm.

okay but you measured from rod midpoint to rod midpoint right? cause i can't measure this i measured the inner diamater distance (36.6mm)

Yes, mid point to mid point.

thank you Leo :) i hope they will work on my am8. My original a8 idlers have 46-47 :D

Hi, did you reduced the Z wobble??? or you end up ussing somethig like this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1858459 ?
regards

Anti Z Wobble for Anet A8
by saschai

I don't have any problems with my printer. As far as I'm concerned your mod link would worsen the print quality.

That is quite weird that on my anet A8 i have distance between x linear rod 46 mm but your model has 45. On your printer X carriage is moving smoothly on whole range from left to right? Becouse when my distance is 46 mm the linear rod starts to woble in (to 45 mm distance) because of the linear bearing which has 46 mm distance.

Multak, it is quite possible that yours is 46mm. The original idlers aren't the best of quality and deviations are probable.
I and many others have no problems with the idlers. You can adjust the distance by resetting the bearing blocks mounted on the extruder carriage.

i tried to redrill the holes to oval shape but it doesent work and now it is unusefull :D I change distance of your model to 46 mm. Soon my printing finish and i will test it and give feedback.
Btw. I hate make solid from STL :D

Why so complicated!? Just readjust the extruder bearing blocks.

It spent more time than retight the srews but result is pretty much good. It is moving smoothly and finally it is much more rigid than was. So i am satisfied. Thank you for your advices.

https://ctrlv.cz/FMd9
https://ctrlv.cz/j3qi

Most important thing is: If you are happy then we are happy :-)

PS: Pictures don't show up :-/

Try it now. Pictures are not so perfect maybe internet dont want to share them with other becouse of that :D

http://imgur.com/a/LX49Z
http://imgur.com/uKngHBF

I can see those :-)

Do you mean that readjustment of the bearings which are atached to prefabricated threated holes help to shift them about 1 mm? However last printed mount is damaged so i have to print another one. Next time i will try this.

I know, but readjust means replace upper with lower or drill new mount holes?

Readjust means loosen the screws, move the blocks accordingly and then retighten the screws.

that make sense. I did not realize it :-/ but still i think 1 mm for readjustment is too much maybe not

My original poorly printed white idlers that came with my printer were not a perfect match, they are about 0.5mm different between the right and left sides. I think you would find them different between printers from Anet and others. Just loosen the screws, move the carriage back and forth by hand then tighten them up again. The original linear bearings are generally forgiving because they are loose fits anyway. I just put Igus LM8UU plastic bearings in mine and had to adjust the blocks to get easy travel.

Comments deleted.

I finally got around to printing and installing your right belt tensioner. It works really well, I really like the fact that the adjustments screws put pressure on the rods instead of the right idler. I just upgraded my printer the the AM8 - Metal Frame for Anet A8. I have been using your X-Idler Mounts for several months now. The total combination of your mounts, belt tensioner and the AM8 frame make the A8 a really fantastic printer. I am now able to print on blue tape without using a glue stick with great results.

That's great to read. I'm glad everything is working as you want it to!

Hi Leo, how wide is the space in your x tensioner for GT2 16/20T idlers? I recently bought some for 6mm belts and their total width is 11mm (too wide for the space in the stock x-axis idler mount), so I'm looking for a tensioner that will take them. Thanks.

I've uploaded a tensioner for you with 11.4mm width. That should fit your pulley. Give it a try.

You, sir, are a legend. Thank you so much, I shall give it a try and let you know.

I'm confused on whether or not to use this modification or use the stock, what are the benefits?

Stick with the stock idlers if they are reasonably well printed, not too deformed and your threaded rods aren't out of line.

hi leo, how much infill do you print for your mods?

That always depends on what I'm printing. But most of the time I use 15 - 25%..

Thanks for quick reply :) So, 15-25% infill is basically strong enough to print braces etc? Ok i'll test that

Hey Leo, do you happen to know the size bearing for these? I printed your idlers and they came out amazing, my stock bearings however did not like the switch xD

Not at hand however these idlers were designed for use with the stock bearings. I'm using stock myself.

Does anyone use this with AM8 frame? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2263216
How long should the x-rods be there, 436 mm? Since the idlers are closed, there is no space for adjustment if the rods are to long.

AM8 - Metal Frame for Anet A8

i am not sure of the length but i use this with am8 on my anet a8 and it works great

What's the purpose of the side cuts you added to the X tensioners? Thanks

They have been put there to relieve stress to the area around the hole when the rods are pressed in place. At least that is my guess as I just copied the idea from the original idlers.

I'm talking about the "X idler Right Tensioner" and the 9.4 version not the idler itself. There are relief cuts where the adjustment bolts go through on yours that are not present on the original design.

Oh my, I guess I need to pay more attention when reading :-)

Don't laugh... it gives the tensioner character but foremost the print is cleaner :-)

Hi Leo,
thanks for the design!
Because there are several X carriage on thingiverse, whats the distance between the two X rods (center to center of the rods)? There is one carriage for E3D Bowden which offers 45.0, 45.5, 45.75 and 46.0mm.
Thanks!

All I can say is that my A8 came with 45.0mm.

Hi Leo,

Would it be possible to widen the hole on the X_Idler_Right_Tensioner_Leo.stl to 8.8mm to fit a 20 tooth idler pulley?

Done. Let me know if it works!

I have printed it with fast and slow settings but the pulley still isnt fitting into the part. the diameter of the pulley is 8.75mm. The printed part is still measuring the same diameter as the original tensioner

Diameter or width? I set the width to 8.8mm as you requested.

Sorry about that, I meant width is 8.75mm. the printed part only seems to measure 8.45mm so the pulley still isnt fitting

I've now uploaded a version with 9.0mm width.

I´ll give that a print now and let you know how it goes

I've ordered some pulleys for myself. According to the ones I'm going to be getting the total width is 9mm. So ideally the width on the tensioner should be 9.4mm. I will have to change to file accordingly.

Are you sure yours have a smaller width?

I printed the 9mm version and did a little bit of sanding inside and it fits perfect

So in other words you have 9mm width pulleys.

I've updated the file to 9.4mm width.

Seems like it, I'll print the new one and test it to let you know

I printed the 9.4mm version and it fits in there perfect with enough room

Thanks for the confirmation.

What is the bolt tool and idler disc for?

Description can be found in the "Summary".

These are great, mine came with the injection molded ones which you would figure should be superior but no, these are much smoother.

Will a metal pulley fit inside the tensioner? I have one coming in the mail but I printed the tensioner already and hope there's enough room.

Just let me know if the pulley doesn't fit. I can change the tensioner to make it fit.

Which X Carrier should i Print, for ur Idler?
Because the distance of the rods with original Idlers differs in about 2.5 mm to ur great 1.1 Version.

If both your rods are 436mm or less then you can use any of the versions. If the rods are greater than 436mm then you will have to look elsewhere on Thingiverse to print idlers.

The distance between the rods are 2mm less than original.
Original distance: 46mm (center to center)
good working distance: 45mm
your distance: 44mm
I print the left idler with channel and the extruder can't even reach the endstop, because he spread the rods.

My idlers have a distance of 45mm!

i checked the stl, your right.
Might be a shrink-problem with ABS?

my solution: drilled bigger holes (9mm) and tape one half of the rods that it fits tightly.
No the best, but worked for me. The original Idler lost his shape at 52°C roomtemperature.

Leo_N, I am printing a set of these now, I plan on replacing my right side idler pulley with a 20 tooth flanged aluminum ball bearing pulley. That pulley is 8.7mm where the 3mm bolt will pass through the bearings. Using netfabb I measured the with of the slot in X_Idler_Right_V1.1_Leo_N as 8.6mm, is that the correct width of the area where the idler pulley will be? I am printing with 4 solid top layers, 4 solid bottom layers and 4 outline/perimeter shells. Do you think this will give me enough material to remove .05mm from each side where pulley will be located. I am not currently planning on using a belt tension adjuster since I have that on the carriage. Thanks for making these available.

Yes, it is 8.6mm wide. You should have no problems with removing some of the material without hurting the integrity of the idler.
Alternatively I can make the change and send the modified file to you.

Thanks, please make the change and send the file to me. I was thinking 8.75mm or 8.8mm just to be safe.

OK, I've set it to 8.8 mm. Please respond via email to (deleted) and I'll send you the file.

Also THANK YOU very much!

Hi Leo_N,

Would it be possible to send me that file aswell as I was just going to modify it to fit and noticed someone has already requested this,
I will PM you my email address if you don´t mind sending me it :)

I sent a reply from my email.

I printed it this evening, all is well. I had to hit the area of the pulley with a file, it was just a little tight but I think that is calibration on my printer. I have not gotten it totally dialed in just yet.

Thanks for posting. Why did you print at .28 resolution instead of a number that is more directly related to your top/bottom layer thickness?

The Anet printer uses Nema 17 stepper motors (1.8°) and the thread pitch of the threaded rod is 8mm -> 1.8° / 360° * 8mm = 0.04mm.
So you would then use layer heights in 0.04- 0.08 - 0.12 - 0.16 - 0.20 - 0.24 - 0.28 .... steps.
For fine print quality I use 0.12, normal quality 0.20 and for draft 0.28.

Did not really plan on using them since I printed them to use as spares in case my stock pieces would break when disassembling the rods (which I have heard of) when chaning the X-carrige. They did not break.... but when swapping to the new carrige equiped with Igus bearings the stock pieces made the rods pinch the whole carrige, making it stuck. Pretty upset I thought the X-carrige was faulty... but then I tried the spare parts that I had printed.... and WOW!!! These are so much better. The X-carrige moves much easier, and I also tried the old carrige, and that also moved much easier. I guess my stock pieces were crap from the start, but the original bearing hid the troubles that became so very obvious with new bearings, Anyway, great design and flawless funtionality!

Leo could you modify the left idler and put a small little channel in there that allows the wire from the Z motor stop to effectively be hidden in there so the only place you see the wire is where it exits near the Z stepper. Basically you poke the wire in there and hold it it place with some hot glue. Just a thought :D

Thanks Leo. Just saw the new mods with a channel :D :D

Could you make a drawing and send it to me at removed. I'm still a bit confused as to what you have in mind.

Let me explain it a little more. I can't draw for shit. From the right hand side of the idler, create a small channel that fits the wire from the X Stop on the underneath of the idler that will follow the contour of the idler around the smooth rod. You can then tuck the wire in the channel. You may need to make the idler a little thicker to do so. The channel goes on the underneath from right to left hand side of the idler to allow the wire to come out near the stepper motor plug where it will be cable tied to the stepper motor cable and head to the controller. From the front you will see the wire go into the idler and on the left hand side exit the idler. It will neaten the whole thing up and there will be no possibility of a the cable being caught somewhere by mistake. Does that make sense?

Uploaded...

Let me think......... :-)

Done :-)

hi i have a question how its possible to print without support i have a problem in center linear bearing (the print was fine untill it reach the gap ) . I have filament floating at this spot

Hi, I've added two pictures on how the idlers should be placed on the heat bed for print. Did you print them in that manor?

Oh ...... Yes it's my fault thanks for your fast reply and sorry!!!!

No problem! :-)

Made these few days ago to replace the bad printed originals.
Well designed, good fit and with a real good belt tensioner.
Great upgrade for the A8

I'm happy that they fit your needs!

Comments deleted.

Nice copy, what fill density are the original printed ?

Nice copy, what fill density are the original printed ?

I don't know. I don't want to cut them open to find out.

Not new and adjustment not easy as you have to play with two screws. How do you measure the belt tension when adjusting ?
Better a simple U shape holding the pulley with one screw plus butterfly nut to hold and adjust.

I did not say it was new. I said I made the items for my needs.
Having 2 screws is easy to adjust. Why 2 screws? Because both screws press against the guide rods so no force is applied to the right idler which is important. That is why a U shape tension holder is not the best thing to do.
How do I adjust the belt tension? Look at the belt on the stepper motor shaft end. Now move the extruder back and forth. If the belt on the stepper motor side moves up or down then you need to tighten it. If it stays level then it is tight enough.

No, a U shape is better, simpler. The proper way to adjust the belt tension is to use a scale to measure the tension. Easy when you have only one screw, just attach the scale to the said screw and pull it to measure ! I adjust it to 26 N.

Whatever you think is fine with me just be careful with criticism if you don't understand physics.

You are also free to design your own solutions......

What ? I don't understand physics ?

SO a personal attack because I question your poor, unnecessary complicated, hard to adjust "thing" .
Obviously you don't even know how to properly adjust a belt tension !

See, this guy understands what I mean, although it could be made a lot simpler.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1921667

Oh, I see you picked up an ANET A8 which is a piece of junk hard to improve and not worth it anyway.
Nothing more to add.

My comments are just for beginners not to get fooled and waste their time.

Bye !

Improved Anet A8 RepRap X-Axis Belt Tensioner
by WedgeSD

Got to agree with leo , the two screws go on to the smooth rods ends and keeps the tension off your idler. which can case twists/bend where you don't want them.

Hey guy, I know that. What I said is that it requires TWO screws to adjust the belt tension while it could be made with only one screw to adjust. In fact some guy have done just that. I pointed to one.
You guys keep presenting the same "solution" over and over, not even looking at what has been done before. So some do it right, others, the majority keep coming with the same mistakes.
Gee, I wasted my time, this is such an old thread ! Anyway.