Loading
DrLex

Customizable Adjustable Glass Bed Bracket for FlashForge Creator Pro etc

by DrLex Dec 7, 2016
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

hello, an excellent job, I made a remix for the plates 310x310 mm cr10,
but I would like to know what variable should be played in the opencad file, so that the sides of the square are longer, or if you can include it in the customizable, for bun range, for example up to 50 mm side.
Thank you

Changing the side length was impossible because the SCAD file relies on an imported polyhedron of fixed size. I have now updated it with a larger base model and added code to chop parts off this model to obtain the desired length.

Mind that making the brackets much larger won't necessarily improve stability because the glass should really only be clamped at the corners.

ok,thanks

regards

Hey! Great job on the part, all works great! However, I was having pin stretching issues and decided to end them once and for all by making the metal screw. unfortunately, the plastic nut doesn't fit on the metal screw, and I can't find a way using the tools I have to directly measure the thread pitch and confirm this, but is there any chance the thread pitch is actually 1mm? comparing a printed pin sided by side with the metal pin, the metal pin gains 1/2 a thread over the course of 10 threads or so, which doesn't line up with the 20% difference between the two that I would have assumed from the pitch alone. Am I missing something really simple here?

The thread pitch on the regular pin models is 1.25mm, this corresponds to a coarse M8 thread. If your metal screw would have a fine thread pitch of 1mm, it would indeed need to gain 2 threads over 10 mm. I'm not sure what is going on here, maybe you printed the pin in ABS that shrinks a lot (but then the plastic pin would need to have a finer pitch)? You could mount the plastic pin + nut in a fixed jig and then measure how far the nut travels when turning it a specific number of times to measure the actual pitch, and do the same for the metal part.

If you can figure out the exact discrepancy between the printed thread and metal thread, you could print the nuts scaled in the Z direction by this factor to compensate for it.

I was unable to find what the issue was, and ended up using the metal pin to cut new threads into the plastic bolt, which I suspect shrunk during printing. All assembled now and working great. Thanks for the help!

Thanks, this thing is awesome! So much better than binder clips. I had to edit the SCAD file to allow for a smaller glass plate (200x213 glass on 214x214 build plate), but it worked beautifully after that.

Customiser not working, can't access files from thingiverse.

Hi, I really like this! I was just wondering what is the specs for the thread?

The answer is actually buried somewhere in the description: M8 x 1.25 for the fine thread. I don't know what the coarse thread is.

Thank you! I can't believe I missed that. I searched the description up and down and never saw that

I tried using the customizer but keeping having an error. .Here is the error I'm getting #<RuntimeError: Failed to get https://www.thingiverse.com/download:3944809 403.

Yes, I also see this and it happens with all customizers. You should report this to Thingiverse.

Thank you for your response. I did notified Thingiverse and I got response saying Yes I have a problem but that is all. I just sent another reponse to them. I hope they will fix the problem. I’m looking forward in getting your glass bed brackets.

I am getting those errors also.

What you can do, is download the latest development snapshot of OpenSCAD and open the .scad file from this thing in it. It has a customizer feature built-in (see the View menu). Or, you can just edit the values in the file itself. When ready, click the ‘Render’ button, then the ‘STL’ button.

I reported twice to Thingiverse but got only one response on the first one. All was written was that I had errors. Did you contact Thingiverse.? Just wondering.

Maybe i'm a special kind of stupid.
But how does it mount to the bed exactly?
Does it need to be a bed with countersunk holes?
Because if I chug a bolt down from the top of the bed, through the pin and then add a nyloc nut, then at the gap where the bed shoud fit, the bolt's head now collides with the edge.

You will need a countersunk hole and screw indeed, such that nothing sticks out above the bed.
An alternative would be to make a gap in the glass for the bolt head, but you probably don't want to try that unless you have experience with cutting glass.
Within a few days I'll make a diagram of how everything is supposed to be mounted, because I notice people are using this model for printers different from the FlashForge Creator Pro for which it was originally designed.

Okay. No i'd rather not do that. I think i'll just drill a countersunk hole in the bed instead.
Thank you for your reply!

I've had loads of issues with the silicon gaskets. When I finally got something that actually dried properly (and didn't tear apart when I pulled it out), it seems that the silicon is entirely too soft, and certainly not firm enough to hold a glass plate in place.

I wonder how things would work if I just printed a couple of ID 10mm, OD 14mm ,4mm high "square" rings using TPU. Any thoughts?

That is definitely worth a try, if it is flexible enough it should work. You may need to experiment a bit with the thickness of the ring, it shouldn't fill the gap entirely to allow it to deform while being compressed.
My molded rings work pretty well, they were also much softer when they came fresh out of the molds, but they obviously kept outgassing during the next few weeks because they got a lot stiffer and shrunk a bit as well. Due to the shrinkage, I should add mold for 4mm high rings, and drop the 3mm model because it is next to useless.

TPU printed at 0.2, 2 bottom layers, 3 top layers, 1 perimeter, 10% fill. The model was a quick tinkercad "ring" that was 4mm tall, 14mm OD and 11mm ID. It's kind of stiff, but I can't go lower than 1 perimeter (and the 10% infill is just so the top layer has something to rest on.) It does work, however. :)

I might try again with a slightly thinner "ring" (11.5 ID, 13.5 OD), to give it room to bulge, but that also leaves less room for infill. (Maybe I should modify the "nut" model to allow for a thicker gasket..hmm..)

Thank you!

Nice, I think it is safe to use 0% infill because the gap that has to be bridged for the first top infill layer is tiny anyway. I have some Ninjaflex samples lying around, I may try this myself.
In the meantime I have molded some new gaskets with the 4 mm high mold I recently added, and indeed it takes quite a while before the silicone cures. I think it is mandatory to place the molds in a very humid environment to let the rings cure in reasonable time, because silicone compound cures due to contact with water.

I tried about 5 different styles of glass bed clips/clamps/brackets since I got my Qidi Tech 1 and a borosilicate glass sheet to go with. I'd been using some small metal spring clamps (with insulated tips) up until now, they did sort of work but occasionally caused the nozzles to crash into them, and occasionally even popped off, ruining more than a couple of prints, so I'd pretty well stopped using the glass completely until I found these.

My glass is almost exactly the same size as my aluminium bed, and I measured both the aluminium and glass accurately and plugged the numbers in. On that first version, the 'lips' on the brackets came out way too big, I do not know why, and consequently didn't fit at all. I re-ran the customizer and added 2 or 3mm to the glass size, which pretty well removed the 'lips' completely (which is what was needed) and these now work brilliantly!

So don't know why the customiser didn't get this right with the glass size exactly the same as the bed size? Would be curious to find out. All in all though, these are the best thing I've come across so far and I can see myself using the glass often now particularly for ABS prints, and it's dead easy to take the brackets off (leaving the pins bolted in place with M3 nylocs, as suggested) for when I'm printing PLA on the blue pad, which is fine.

THANKS!

It is possible the bolts on your particular bed are positioned somewhat differently than on mine, after all it is a clone. Or maybe you did not need the ‘rear corner fix’ which is enabled by default (see the bottom of the thing description page). But since you're happy with your current print, I guess you no longer need to try fiddling with the options :)

Well the gaskets didn't work... 24 hours layer and the silicone hadn't even begun to set so all I got was a gummy mess.

I did use low-modulus silicone though, not the stuff that smells like vinegar - I wonder if the cure time is different or something. What did you use again? I don't see how much air can get to it to cure once they're clamped together anyway!

I used cheap house brand generic silicone from a local store, of the ‘neutral’ kind (the one that smells like some kind of solvent). Not sure what is the modulus rating of this stuff. Low modulus might be too flexible for this application, although you could compensate for it by making custom gaskets that are thicker.

Silicone cures due to exposure to humidity, so you can try placing the filled mold inside a damp environment. It doesn't need to be soaked, just sealing it in a plastic bag with a few drops of water should be sufficient to cause it to cure quicker. I recommend to leave the gaskets alone for an additional 24 hours after removing them from the molds, to allow them to outgas and become more stiff.

If you want to further improve curing, you can make your own mold with more or larger vent channels. Use the customizable mold maker with rounded square shape, inner diameter of 10 mm, and outer 14.1 mm. As for the thickness, you may want to use 4mm instead of 3.5mm, especially when using low modulus silicone, because I have noticed that even 3.5mm doesn't offer an awful lot of springiness after the gaskets have cured and shrunk a little. (I need to update the thing page some day…)

Customizable Gasket Mold Maker
by DrLex

The glass ive ordered is 232 x 154mm and my bed is 230 x 150mm will this bracket take up that much slack?

Yes, if you enter those values in Customizer, you'll get brackets that will fit.

Hello,
thank You for the nice work. In my case the only problem is the length of the pins. My glass is little bit larger and the customized version only adjusts the form of the corners, not the length of the pins :-(

I have added new ‘XL’ pins that are about 6mm longer, if that isn't enough then you should try to find a better matching glass plate, because making the pins any longer will greatly increase the risk that they will bend.

HI and thanks for this! :)
I've got a ffcp 2016 with blue sticker removed as I hated it.. got two glass sheets from same firm.. weirdly one has rounded off corners other doesnt, Bed 153x232 by my amateurish measuring lol and glass is 153x235 (rounded corner glass) so oeverhangs slightly at sides. Can I use this bracket? Cheers.

Yes, you can. If you want to mount the brackets on the front right and rear left, customize them with a ‘Tab Width Left’ of 0mm, and a ‘Tab Width Right’ of 1.5mm. If you want them on the front left and rear right, swap those two values.
I'll try to update the customizer one of these days so you only need to fill in your bed and glass dimensions, and it will either do the rest or say it won't work, instead of having to do all the calculations yourself.

Nope, do you intend to use those to improve heat transfer to the glass? I'm not sure if it will make a big difference.

Someone on a Facebook group uses it to secure the glass! I've ordered one I'll post back.

The sheet I posted above is a huge success. I have no brackets holding the glass whatsoever!

Hello,
is this one good for a 10x9 or (255mmx230mm) gas bed?
if not dose someone have a solution for my FFCP2016 and 10x9 gas bed?

No, you cannot mount a glass plate that large with these clips. In fact you'll have a hard time mounting it in any way, and there is no real point in using such a large plate to begin with. The nozzles cannot go beyond the original 230x155 bed by more than a few millimeters, so you won't gain much printing volume. These clips are optimal for a glass plate that is nearly the same size as the aluminium bed.

I printed this out, and I'm seeing a problem. My glass is not really held in place (because the clips don't reach it) and it lifts up during printing. That my be just because I'm using plexi glass instead of tempered, but if you know the solution please help me.

I've replaced the plexi glass with tempered glass, but now the problem is that I don't get good adhesion in the middle because there glue on there, and the clips still don't hold it in place. I think it's just a little bit too big so that one of the clips is not on the bed. Any suggestions on that?

If there is any residue on the glass, remove it with acetone. Less sticky greasy stuff can be easily removed with isopropanol.
I'm not sure I understand what you mean with ‘one of the clips is not on the bed’. A photo would help.

If you do want to try to go on with the plexiglass, it does have the advantage that you can tool and sand it. To make the brackets really grab the plate from above, bevel the edges of the plates (sand off about 3/4 of a millimeter off the edges at a 45° angle), and customize the brackets with the ‘extra ridges’ enabled. This will cause them to grab those beveled edges and clamp down the plate. However, the plexi may still have enough force due to thermal expansion, that it will lift the brackets, so I would again recommend to use real glass instead.

Have you merely printed the default STL models, or created custom ones with the Customizer button? I'm just wondering because if you have created custom models according to the instructions, and use them according to the instructions, then they should fit and grab the plate. I'm starting to suspect that quite a few Thingiverse users don't even realize that Customizer exists…

Plexiglass seems like a bad choice for a print bed. It will flex when heated, because one side will be considerably warmer than the other one, which probably explains why it lifts. Also, it is by far not as resistant to wear as glass, and some filaments may fuse with it. You definitely should get a glass plate. Borosilicate is not essential, but recommended nonetheless.

Thank you for posting this along with the scad file. Superior design compared to all other clips I've found, including my own remix of another. Too many good prints ruined by a small shift in the glass bed.

Hey guys how to you set the home plate so the nozzle dont hit the glass? I saw other kits have stepper additions for the back, but is there a way to reset where the plate goes in the program itself? If so to what hight. I bought the glass part from flashforge direct as I had credit there

Thank you

You need a shim to raise the Z axis endstop position, like this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1886458 (if you have an older version of the FFCP and this model doesn't fit, try one of the original designs this one was remixed from).

Z-Axis shim spacer for 2016 FlashForge Creator Pro (for glass bed, customizable)
by DrLex

Thank you for the reply! this is the glass I have, can't seem to find a file for the same size?

http://www.flashforge-usa.com/shop/borosilicate-glass.html

I have just added a 6 mm version which is about the same thickness as those plates.

Hi sorry to bother again, but was wondering if you had to change any settings in heat etc when adding the glass plate? and if so does it matter what thickness?

Seems stuff is sticking alot less printing with ABS and using gluestick as people indicated

The thicker the glass, the more it will isolate the heat. I'm afraid 1/4 inch (±6 mm) may be too thick. Glass is not a good thermal conductor. With a 3 mm plate, I already lose about 15°C on the surface when heating the bed to 110°C, but 95°C is still OK to get good adhesion with hairspray.
You can try a few things:

  • Try hairspray/3DLac instead of glue stick. Make sure to clean the glass well before applying it.
  • Increase the bed temperature. However, if you use printed brackets to clamp the glass, and heat the bed far above 110°C, the brackets could start deforming rapidly.
  • Seal your enclosure as much as possible, for instance use this plug for the door (or tape if you don't have any flexible filament to print this), and this insert to reduce the gap in the hood. Also, do not enable the fan unless necessary.
  • Find thinner glass.
Flashforge Creator Pro 2016 Door Handle Draft/Warp Stopper
FlashForge Creator Pro hood insert 2.0
by DrLex

You are the best! thank you so much

I have a glass 220x220.
What items I need printer?

These clips are only suitable for glass plates that aren't larger or smaller than the printing bed by more than about 1 cm. If you have a Creator Pro and want to use your 220x220 plates with it, then these clips are of no use. Otherwise, if you have a printer with a bed of approximately 220x220 and screws on the corners, then just follow the instructions in the Thing Details.

" If you have a Creator Pro, then these clips are of no use."

Huh? Why? The headline for the part is 'Customizable Adjustable Glass Bed Bracket for FlashForge Creator Pro etc'

The brackets I have now for my 6.3mm glass plate are pretty unsatisfactory so I was going to give these a try until I read this comment.

You should read things in context: that was a reply to someone who said he has glass plates of 220x220mm. These brackets are for plates roughly the same size as the 230x155mm FFCP bed. 220x220 is way too different, therefore for this person these brackets are of no use (I updated the reply to avoid further confusion). The difference between bed and glass plate should not be larger than about 10 mm in either dimension to use these brackets.

Ah, sorry -- I did miss the context. Now these are my next-up project to print!

I'm having trouble with the nuts slipping on the pins. Printing in PETG, most of my other prints are pretty accurate in terms of dimensions (nut holes etc are spot on). Any tips?

Coarser thread versions of the nuts and pins are now available (I used the same ones as Lochemage's remix).

I wouldn't recommend PETG if you're going to heat the bed above 75°C. If that's not the case, then print at the lowest temperature that produces a strong result, and provide ample cooling during printing to prevent details from melting into each other. You could try to print the pins in upright position as well, but that will require a good raft.
Somewhere in the coming weeks I'll try to add an alternative set of pins and nuts with coarser threads that are easier to print.

Thanks that would be helpful. For now I printed the bolts scaled down to 96% which seems to have done the job. Regards temps the PETG doesn't melt until around 180'C and I rarely go above 80'c on the heat-bed so I'll give it a go and see how they stand up.

Ayyyy I wanted to say thank you. The plate holder is the only thing I still argue with on the FFC so I'll slap these in next week and see how it is.

Will not hold the glass properly against the base plate ! it will lift it as you tighten the screw.
Here is one that does: In fact,
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1947870

Glass Holder for prusai3 or similar 3D printers
by Forc3D

If the brackets are printed with a correct bed size such that they have no vertical play, and the nuts are not over-tightened, then the plate won't lift. The screws should only be tightened just to the point where the plate can no longer move, otherwise the tension in the plastic will cause it to deform from the heat anyway.
Any design that clamps down the plate from above will need to have stuff sticking out above the plate, with a risk that the nozzles will crash into it.

Not at all, it will lift the glass plate because the part will give ! Others here have made similar holder, I told them and after having measured with shims, they saw the problem.
You should use a slanted contact surface against the glass edge that will force down the glass.
Anyway spring steel is better for this usage..
For example a U shape pinching the glass plate and base made out of steel shim or spring wire is more secure, the printed surface lost is minimal if one make it thin enough.

If this is such an obvious problem, I would have expected it to be reported in the comments of the two original Things of which this is a remix, which exist for almost a year now. I find none, only things like “works great”.

This remix has a more central position for the screw and nut with respect to the bracket than the original designs. This makes it even less likely that it will start to tilt upwards. Moreover, my instructions clearly state not to tighten the screws any more than is required to secure the plate. If anyone wants to turn the knobs until everything starts to bulge, then it is user error.

I have already done a 3-hour ABS print at 110°C with these brackets, and the plate didn't move in any direction. The only caveat is that the bed has a much larger thermal expansion than borosilicate glass, therefore it is important to preheat first and check that everything is tight before starting the print. Bed levelling should be done with the bed preheated — this is true even without a glass plate as I have learnt from months of working with BuildTak. I even did the test of preheating to 110°C, tightening the nuts, and then letting it cool back down all the way to 15°C, which is about the worst case of additional stress imposed on the brackets due to thermal contraction. Nothing happened, nothing lifted.

I don't care about a few mm of lost space due to a clip on the glass, I just don't want to constantly remind myself that there are things sticking out above the build surface and I might crash into them if I would modify my pre-print or bed levelling procedures.

Anyway, I have added an option to the customizer to extend the model with an extra ridge at the top edge of the tabs, that could offer some extra downwards clamping force, especially if the glass plate has rounded edges.

"Anyway, I have added an option to the customizer to extend the model with an extra ridge at the top edge of the tabs, that could offer some extra downwards clamping force, especially if the glass plate has rounded edges."

OK, as you do what I suggested.

Just noticed this guy proposed the same thing as you but earlier.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1940192

Flashforge Creator Pro Glass Adjustable Bed Bracket with bolt action and duplo threads

“Just noticed this guy proposed the same thing as you but earlier.”
Explain.

Good stuff Doc! Hopefully this works on my PowerSpec Ultra, I think it has the same bed size.