STEP Calibration Piece (X, Y and Z axis)

by voltivo Dec 4, 2013
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Great test print.Thanks!

I got 100.02 and 100.01 and 50.05, so my Ender-3 Pro is in pretty good shape, and I won't be adding any calibration codes.


The X- and Y- arms are not square to each other. I already knew this trying to print a "center finder" thing a few weeks ago.

Question: is there any calibration to improve the squareness between the X and Y axis? I did try moving the two Ender-3 "towers," to move one forward slightly in order to change the X axis relative to the Y axis, but that failed to improve anything.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Perfect little piece. Kudos to the creator.

Don't worry about the length of the arms, it's 100 mm on X and Y. The 5 mm more you see on the slicer is due to the notch at the end of X and Y that protrudes to the side on the opposite axis.

Had the glad surprise that my Ender 3 didn't need calibration on the axis, I got 100.06, 100.02 and 50.04 (X,Y,Z).

Works just great - Thank you!

This shows as 105x105x50 in S3D. I didn't bother to print as that seems very inaccurate.

It shows 105x105x50mm because that are the dimensions (the arms are 5mm).
This model work fine for calibration :)!

yah i see that also

ya wish it had labels

there is no way to tell x from y after you get it off mark it or make the x and y ends differnt

Write X, Y and Z on your model before you remove it from your bed. Simples!

Try to figure this out with a Delta Printer....
I will just use the scaling factors in Cura.
I just mark it with a Sharpie.

Thanks for this, I was able to make adjustments to my X/Y/Z very easily with this.

Hey guys,

does Cura also tell you that the size of the model is 105 x 105 x 50?

I like yours the best so far, of the calibration widgets I've found! The 20x20x20mm cube is just not enough data. A few over extruded lines, or a too 'smushed' first layer can give a ~1% error with the 20mm cube. I also like that you show the simple expected / measured * old_steps_mm = new_steps_per_mm formula. It's amazing how complicated some folks on here make it! haha

That same 1% extrusion error would only result in about a 0.2% error on this calibration widget! Of course, filling your entire printable x, y and z might be most accurate (if your issues are only linear ones) but I think this is quite adequate!

great tool i did a z axis adjustment for wobbling and i needs to did a calibration after the pring the z axis measures 49,76 so almost perfect

I've been looking all over but I cannot figure out where to adjust the steps in my Monoprice Select v2 printer. Any advice?

There SHOULD be a way on the Configuration Menu on the printer, but there's NOT. Since Monoprice refuses to even acknowledge any requests that they release the Firmware, you can't modify the configuration.h file you'll hear mentioned about on the Web, which would be the "normal" way it's done.

HOWEVER, all is not lost! You can set it via at least two free programs, MatterControl or Repetier-Host. I've used both, MatterControl is pretty, and a bit easier to use, but I keep finding myself coming back to Repetier-Host, it lets you do more, and allows you to use multiple slicers. MatterControl SAYS they do, but it doesn't really work, you can only use theirs, and it's a work in progress.

The way you use Repetier-Host (a free download) is you hook it up to your PC via USB. It's MUCH better than swapping SD cards! It even shows your ETE (Estimated Time to End) on the Printer's display, as well as your PC's screen, giving you minutes rater than some stupid "progress bar" that you have to perform calculus to figure when it's going to be done. LOL!

You even get a live display of exactly what it's doing in real time, shows the hotend movement, layers, the whole enchilada. You can PAUSE, move the carriage, move it back, resume, etc., and it has a G Code editor that lets you save a screwed up print. Gives you on screen controls for X, Y, Z, and Extruder. Drop dead simple to extrude 100mm for an extruder steps test.

NOTE: There's a KNOWN problem on the MP Select v2 (mine's a v2.1, same problem). The USB setting must be 115500 in the program and on the printer. On the printer, it's the 1st Configuration item - General, 1st listed item. Disconnect USB. Change to 115500, Go BACK. Scroll to "Save to EEPROM" & SAVE it. Count to 10, then power cycle the printer. NOW hookup the USB, and load the Repetier-Host program. Top Left click CONNECT. You're now controlling the printer.

This ~assumes~ you configured the printer right during the Repetier-Host setup. If not, (in Repetier-Host) go to Config Menu -> Printer Settings to fix it.

I'd explain more, but it's covered in a number of posts, and I haven't the time right now. Once you setup it's a GREAT program that's used by LOTS of people so there's plenty of online help to setup the USB or any other usage issues.

After you have it setup, in Repetier-Host you go to the Config Menu -> Firmware EEPROM Configuration. It may be greyed out, if so, wait a couple mins and try again. That pops up a Window that will let you get to the Steps per MM settings (as well as a bunch of others). If you put in a value, when you hit "OK" the data is saved to the printer and the Window closes. Just for fun, I use the "Send a G-Code" box, top right, in Manual Control Tab to send an M500 to be sure it's permanently saved. Over cautious, but that's the Engineer in me. :-)

Two Tips: 1. EXPORT THE SETTINGS FIRST so you have a fallback if you scr*w up. I also write down any changes on a post it note on the printer with the date and before / after settings.

  1. DON'T use this "thing" printout for measurements!!! Nor should you use the cubes some print for a check. They're FINE, to CHECK things, but there's so many factors at work here in 3D printer land, that printouts are NOT reliable for measurement.

If you want to check your X & Y do so by measuring the ACTUAL MOVEMENT OF THE CARRIAGE OR BED with a calipers after moving a known amount, like 100mm (Repetier-Host Manual Control makes that dead simple). Like any measurement, do it at least twice, three times and average results is better. THEN you can use this lovely thing to check the measurements FOR THAT FILAMENT, AT THAT TEMP, FROM THAT NOZZLE, etc, if you get my drift. Don't adjust your printer to a printout, adjust to a standard, THEN adjust the printout.

Gots to run, Wife is calling me... Coming Dear! LOL. I don't get to the Forums often, so apologies if you ask a followup Q it may be a while, but there's lots of helpful folks here!

All the Best, PuterPro

be aware that your also including any error cause by filament thickness.
A good way to factor that out is to measure from the same side of the calibration print.
spin it around, use the 'depth stick' on the back of it to measure from the right edge to right edge.
This helps seperate out the 'trace width' from the 'steps per mm' calibrations.
important because the 'trace width' seem to varry depending on temperature and the plastics thermal properties (and tip wear, but I dont think that ever really happens)

Comments deleted.

Maybe an upgrade with the letters imprinted in the tabs or arms so people won't get confused...pretty cool design

Definitely need to print mine...I think I have maybe a very miniscule 1-2% deviation at most...but that's enough to make parts not fit together properly.


On Slic3r 1.2.9 (OSX), show 105mm x 105mm x 50mm

My slicer (cura, repetier host, S3D) show 105,105,50mm :S

Because the actual model dimensions actually are 105x105 due to the tabs at the end ;)
However each "arm" is 100mm long.

@ofueckert ow, that was tricky! you saved my calibration, thanks!

me too, in cura 2.4 (OS X) is 105x105x50

I just opened this in my cad software, its 100x100x50.

hi how do I find my original steps ?

oK MY spmm WHERE 83, 83, 3080/1.25,153 after a re calculation after I installed Z constraints it was {80.27, 80.27, 3152.5/1.25,141} really some difference. though I think the Z is wrong I added the 3080/1.25 instead of Just the 3080 and got 2525.42 I thought that was wrong so I did it again without the /1.25 and got 3152.5 as a Z steps Value I am currently trying that out Hope it is closer to 15mm Cube then x15.74y15.56 x12.52 mm

Just a small correction, the E-steps are the steps/mm for the extruder(s), the parameters you are calibrating with this print are not the E-steps, but the X,Y and Z steps/mm

You are right of course! Good catch. I updated the descriptions.