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mirox3m

X3uder - OS 12VDC RepRap Filament extruder

by mirox3m Dec 6, 2013
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what is inside that bearing plate? what bearings do u use?

There is nothing in the plate itself, just the 3d printed part, but with more perimeters in order to be stronger. The bearing that is needed is called "thrust ball bearing": https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thrust_bearing

Ю хэв бьютифул инглиш. Майби беттер спик ин Рашн? Бекоз онли рашен пипл кэн андерстанд йу.

Who cares about russian language and rashka?!

Hi,

I noticed you instruction is a bit confusing, example

"The aluminum flange is 65 mm dia, 8 mm long, 1/2 int. thread."

  1. what does 1/2 int mean? half an inch?
  2. how did you taps the 20mm thread for the heater block?
  3. where can we get the motor?
  4. software configuration?

Hi,

Yes, you are right. I'll have to update it to be a bit more clear.
The issue is that you can use 1/2 internal diameter (in inches) (normally used for plumbing products, even in EU) or metric (20 mm), depending on what kind of pipe/auger combination you can source. If you make it all metric, then instead of 1/2" use 20 mm.

noted thanks, here in my country even thought we use metric but our plumbing products still use imperial measurement :), what about the other 3 question :)

thanks!

  1. They were made on lathe, since I could not find appropriate consumer taps in Bulgaria.
  2. Motor is tricky. I recently found some in Aliexpress - about 70 USD.
  3. No configuration is needed if you use RepRap controller. Just specify temp, and PID tune. In case you use for both the 3D printer and X3uder, then save your PID parameters so that you can change them easily.

thanks i guess making myself a tap is not an option then, are you able to sell the heater block alone? else going back to thermocouple and pid controller then

Unfortunately, I stopped making them more than year ago since I am a bit busy :(

ah ok no worries I think I can find someone to cnc 1 for me here :)

well i guess filastruder motor are a better option else i might visit my local junkyard for wiper motor or use nema23 :)

No, only what is in the description and in "Instructions" :(

Any links for a motor?

how you did to heat? what did you use?

As I mentioned in the description: "It uses 2 x 40 watt 12 volt heating cartridges."

I would like buy one of these but seems unavailable. If u can please email me at [email protected] , might buy two

What size hole did you use to get 3mm filament? Is it just a 3mm hole or did you have to go smaller to counter expansion?

It actually depends on the material that you're using . With the LG natural ABS I use 3 mm nozzle and the filment comes as 2.8 mm. With a different material I use 2.5 mm nozzle in order to produce 2.9 mm filament.

HI..
Just to let you know I recivied my kit, Thanks.
I noticed that http://www.filastruder.comhttp://www.filastruder.com is selling a BETA geared motor for 50% off http://www.filastruder.com/products/gearmotorhttp://www.filastruder.com/pro...
make sure you choice "BETA MOTOR" (I ordered one to try)

What benefit will the fan guild V2 give us ????
Also what spacing should the fan guild be from the end of the barrel ?

Thanks, can't wait to test drive.

Seems that my previous reply was lost?!

  1. This motor seems very powerful so everything should be tightened very well. They are aiming to increase the production rate.
  2. The v2 guide is higher, which provides more freedom for adjustment of the top rail before it touches the FAN.
  3. I haven't measured the distance. Try to position it so that you have room for adjustment and the FAN is angled away from the nozzle.

I presume that the auger is a 16mm drill?

Is it also possible ( I presume yes ) to make 3mm PLA filament with your machine?

Can the kit still be ordered in the E emakershop? ( because it says sold out)

Yes, in my case it is 16mm, but the general idea is that it has to be measured and fit the ID of the barrel. These augers are usually 16mm just for the front 10-20 mm and thinner for the remaining part that you are going to use.
I don't list it now since I don't have motors. I have to order min 100pcs and they are quite expensive and heavy.

Ok, and how about selling ( temporary ) a kit without motor?
I probably can purchase a motor locally ...

I can make one in several days and the price would be - 75$ which is the price of the motor.

If you find similar motors online, please let me know so that I post the link for other users.

Hi Miroslav,

I certainly will let you know as soon as I find the motors.

How do I order the X3truder kit?
I also wanted to order a Melzi v2.0 all-in-one controller, so if you make a kit without motor for the X3truder then I can order both via the Eemaker shop, if not , I open for sugestions :-)

Best regards

Marc

could you please send me an email to mirox3m (at) gmail com

What's the length of the tube, and the length of the auger? How big is the cut into the tube for the hopper?

Happy new year! Thanks for reminding me to update it. The instructions are updated and I am adding some pics from making one X3uder.

YALFE V2 - YET ANOTHER LYMAN'S FILAMENT EXTRUDER V2
by Cos
LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER V3
by hlyman

What temperature are you using to extrude this abs , Thx

195 C, 210 on thermistor

hello

I am interested in buying your extruder filament

how much is the shipping cost if you send them to Israel, where I buy and how I use paypal

I wish I had this filament guide before I went vertical.

I see that there is no thermal break between the hot end and the hopper area, have you experienced issues with the heat traveling up and clogging the bit after 5 or 6 hours of running? Also, how long have you had it running at one time?

This is a design idea taken from Filastruder. I had no problems "with heat traveling". I've rum it for maximum 6-7 hours. The hopper I use (the red one) is PLA and there is no sign of melting on it, which happens at 6-70C.

oh, ok, with earlier filament extruders, I saw alot of people run into that issue and was curious about that. Maybe it's due to the tube being stainless steel. Also, what's the loud screeching sound in your video?

Due to similar concerns I made the barrel 2cm longer, so I understand your point. The screeching sound is not as loud as it seems in the video and is due to bad machining of auger's tail on my side. The one in the kit I offer on emaker is made by the professional who made all other parts.

I bought 2 pcs from an alibaba chinese trader as samples that ended about 90$ each. Problem is they require minimum of 200 pcs order. Filastruder is selling their motors if you are from US. It would be nice to find a place where anyone can buy them.

What motor are you using? Can you give a link to the source of it?

I am making 3mm filament which ends 2.8 to 2.95, but that was before I PIDtuned the Melzi board :) At that time the temp was floating 2-3 degrees up and down, after PIDtuning it is "floating" +/- 0.1

What are the tolerances +/- you are getting with the extruded filament?

I am making 3mm filament which ends 2.8 to 2.95, but that was before I PIDtuned the Melzi board :) At that time the temp was floating 2-3 degrees up and down, after PIDtuning it is "floating" +/- 0.1