1200 x 1200 Large scale DIY 3D printer - Sub33D v3.07

by sschm9, published

1200 x 1200 Large scale DIY 3D printer - Sub33D v3.07 by sschm9 Dec 18, 2016
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Please check out the Build progress and test print preview video:

There is a playlist of full build progress updates and test print videos:

800mm Ledgend of Zelda Master Sword test print:

T-Rex skull test print:

You can also check us out on Facebook:

Filament for the printer is created on our own modified Lyman / Mulier version 5 Filament Extruder:

This printer was designed to print very large scale using recycled ABS plastic (we also recycle, shred and produce recycled ABS filament).
Most of the other very large scale printers out there tend to print in PLA which is a lot less problematic at large scale.

Main features:

  • Build volume 1200mm x 1200mm x 600mm
  • H bot layout with fixed heat-bed (4 x z-axis motors to move the light weight H frame rather than the insanely heavy heat-bed)
  • 1mm nozzle, double volcano extruder hot end to increase flow rate (80W total heater power)
  • 2400W heatbed using 4 x 230V 600W 400mm x 400mm silicone heating pads (controlled with 25A solid state relay)
  • 2 x Recycled Nema23 stepper motors for y-axis, driven by single 5A TB600 CNC type stepper driver
  • 4 x Recycled Nema23 stepper motors for z-axis, driven by single 5A TB600 CNC type stepper driver
  • 1 x Recycled Nema23 stepper motor for x-axis, driven by standard DRV8825 2.5A stepper driver
  • 1 x Recycled Nema17 stepper motor for extruder, driven by standard DRV8825 2.5A stepper driver
  • Modified Ultimaker 1.5.7 PCB main board
  • 4 x 150W IR heaters to reduce heat-bed deformation and maintain consistent heat on printed ABS parts.
  • Designed in Sketchup Make 2017, design file included in downloads (Sub33D v3.07.09.skp)
  • Frame built from 50mm x 50mm x 2mm box section aluminium
  • Total build cost is close to $2000 AUD, aproximately add another $500 AUD if your not using recycled components.
  • Marlin-RC firmware also included in downloads (Marlin-RC.zip)

If anyone is thinking to build something like this I would recommend using a 12mm heat-bed plate (rather than 6mm) as the aluminium plate deforms up to 5mm when heated to 90 deg C, I am using 9 x 9 point auto-bed leveling to pick up the deformation shape).
Also the 400mm x 400m 600W silicone heaters are a little small as the distance between them causes around a 10 deg C difference on the heat-bed surface between the heaters and above them).

I'm Currently building a new dual 100mm stack extruder with 8 x 40W heater cartridges to allow for a 4 x increase in flow rate over the current design, as the printing speed at this volume is way to slow, once this is done I will share some more of the design details.

Special thanks to Substation33 for all the support and recycled materials.

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What kind of power supply did you use? Volts? Amps? Thanks!!!

Hi there, I'm currently in the process of building a 3d printer for a stem competition with dimensions of 400mm by 800mm by 800mm (LxWxH) build volume. no I'm slightly confused how you managed to use an ultimate board with nema 23 stepper motors. this question may have already been asked but, how did you manage to do that, did you need to change the software, what stepper drivers did you use. would it be possible if you could upload pictures of the wiring and the boards to possibly help?


Dear sir, I am facing difficulty with adding TB6600 stepper driver. Here in your video I see that you have used TB6600 stepper motor driver and done some modification in the wiring(Here is your file).
Please sir, I am not getting why and how you have added some additional wire?
I will be grateful to you if you give me details of the wireing diagram where you have done some modification.
Please sir,................ I will be really grateful to you.

Comments deleted.

Would v-slot work as easy replcement?
I got some 20x20 and 20x40 so i would like to know if it can

can cad file work in autodesk inventor?

(i solved this myself, did it in cad)

Hello sschm9.
Awesome build, well done!

I'm looking for more information on your heated bed. I have a 600mm³ printer with a dual zone heated bed and a bang-bang controller. This of course is causing z-banding.
I would like to change it to pPID control and would do so using an identical design to your machine.
I can't find enough detailed information on how to parallel wire the two silicone heaters and properly ground everything.

I wonder if you could point me in the right direction?
[email protected]
Thank you

I am assuming your heaters are mains voltage 110 or 230VAC etc?
My 4 x 600W heaters are 220VAC (around 2.5A each) and are simply wired in parallel and then connected to the load side of the 25A solid state relay (10A load)
I have also earthed the heat bed for safety and used high temperature silicone mains wire due to the high temps.

Hope this helps.

Hi, just to double check with you also.
If I use 4 x https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/electronics/48-heated-bed-mk2b.html (to get 40cm3 work space) and Makeboard (uses Ramps pinout). Would a 12v50a sufice to not burn everything around? I am also not sure if the Makeboard board can handle all 4 heated beds at once (I guess here the SSR saves the day).
I have a clue how to wire everything, I am just scared not to fck things up. hehe.
The rest of the printer uses Nema 17 stepper motors and classic build for which I use a 12v20a power supply - included 1x 200x200 Heated bed.


Hey :)
great Job.
Do you know how can I open the skp file of the printer on Solidworks?
Do you it is possible?
Thank you

Not directly, but you can export the 3D printer model from Sketchup as an STL (you need load the STL extension) and then import that into Solidworks

what did it actually cost to build?

Around $2000 AUD, possibly add another ~$500 AUD if you're not using recycled components.

Is there a complete kit for this printer?

Wiring, frame, controller, monitor, etc??

I have not really considered this as yet, maybe with a future version.

hello sir,

i have started making this printer , first to learn, i am new to to electronics , it would be helpful if i can have the wiring diagram

[email protected]


Hopefully when I get back to this project I will send more details (once I finish the new extruder design/build)

Dear respected sir, Hope you are in good health with success and happiness. I am sorry for taking your valuable time.
I'm working on my 3D printer where I gonna use Nema 23 stepper motor. Therefore I need high power stepper motor driver. Please could you help me how to replace small stepper driver to high power stepper driver as like that you have done in your 3D printer? I will be grateful to you.

Do you know how to rewire nema 17 so they will run opposite direction from initial rotation?

Yes, you can reverse the polarity of the A+ A- and B+ B- wires

Do you have a material list and set of instructions? I never built a 3D printer and would feel more comfortable with instructions.


Hopefully when I get back to this project I will send more details (once I finish the new extruder design/build), although I would not recommend this as your first build.

I have the GT2560 controller and need the mating connectors for the board.... Do you have the p/n's for these items?

I also have splitters that allow me to drive a couple extra stepper motors, but need to know how these work with the board.

Is there information on these items?



I may be missing something, but cannot find a wiring diagram for the LCD display.... Where can I find this information?


question... I see there is quite a lot of stepper motors. does it matter if it is bipolar or not and if they have dampers or not. I seem to have been fortunate to get more than I need in stepper motors but not sure which ones to use. also would like to how you put all the hot pads together? That seems to be the most expensive item for me to buy. I am considering this board, I dont know if it is wise option: Panucatt Azteeg X3 PRO 3D Printer Controller. I would like to make a 2400l x 1200w x 800h so I can make some very long items. I started purchasing the motors already and several hotend and extruders. I would like not to cut my self off from future mods by being too cheap. I assume you are use the nema 23 for the vertical. would I need to go bigger on the stepper or can I use one in the middle? would nema 23 be too small for the other axis? I see you are using carriages with wheels instead bearing blocks.. would bearing blocks be okay? Also with such long length, what diameter rods would you use? Also, does your printer go out of level easy at that size? thanks for any help.

Most stepper drivers I have seen are bipolar not unipolar, unfortunately I have not had any experience with unipolar drivers, so can not offer any advice there.

The heat pads are 230V and all wired in parallel (yes expensive), they are controlled using a solid state relay which is controlled with the 12v heat bed wires from the main board.
if you plan on using PLA, you may not need to use a heated bed.

For a large 3D printer I would not recommend using rods, as they become very heavy compared to aluminium box section, more weight means higher torque/power to accelerate and de-accelerate the axles etc.
The Nema 23's are fine if you use aluminium box section, you may need to go larger if you plan on using rods (not sure on rod diameter, but guessing at least 16 to 20mm for this size build would be required for stiffness)

Bed leveling was difficult but still worked fine with this build, I ended using 9x9 proximity probe mesh to get a close enough shape of the bed which warps around 3 to 5mm in places when heated. I also use a 1mm first layer height.

not knowing much about steppers motors out there, I actually won a lot of recycled steppers in both 17 and 23 at a super reasonable price. so, I guess I will eventually be savvy on both types. The heating pads on the bigger sizes or custom made pads where extremely expensive. I am wondering it a long coil heater will work work? there are a lot reasonable heating strips out there I have found but I dont know if it would make the bed have cold and hot spots?

I was wondering why you chose boxed aluminum? Pricing that out with V-Slot, I see that there is not much of a difference in cost. Why did you not chose V-Slot?

3 to 5mm is a lot of warp. Too much for making what I want. I wonder if I reinforce the plate with T-slot or Wide Vertical brace if it would reduce the expansion? I have huge amounts of steppers motors now, I wounder if I can use some of them to compensate the expansion then I will have to set up sensors to measure them in real time so it may be over doing it.

though I need to print out meter plus prints, I think I will start with 1200mm one like what you did and get experience from that before trying to make what I need. also, I may need to go to multiple heads printing same print on the bed but it may be better to go with multiple printers. The weight consideration may go the other way with too many heads. but I guess bowden long distance will be the way to go to limit weight on the print head.

I should be starting of the frame soon, I will send pics as I go. Thanks so much

If the space between the strips is not too large then it should work fine, although keep in mind it's the uneven heating that can cause a lot of warping,

Here in Australia the box section was several times cheaper than the v-slot profiles, also the weight to stiffness ratio is better with the box section. If you can get the v-slot at a reasonable price then it's probably worth considering (would be a much simpler build/design)

I used 100x5mm angle around the edges and one brace through the middle to minimise warping, although I regret not using a 10 or 12mm thick plate to start with (6mm was too thin). Also the 9x9 proximity auto bed leveling mesh helped a lot with the warped bed (compensated for the warped shape)

Also, I want to be able to put a jig on the heater bed to tie existing parts to a 3d print, Printing in real time to a metal frame to make a monolithic print from several embedded pieces of metal. not sure if it can be done?

Also, do you know where to get a pellet extruder? Or how to make one? I image you can run a stepper motor to run the drive screw like a filament extruder but how can you regulate flow more precisely? Will you need to run a sensor to measure the flow? then you will need a controller to change screw rotation speed? I have heard of pellet extruders used in huge 3D printers that extrude up to 5 kilo per hour. Any ideas how to speed up printing without killing your quality of print?/

I have the frame made with V-Slot. I am not doing a box like what you did. Using 2060 to make a square 1500mm by 1000mm. The vertical is 500mm but I am running 4 nema 23 to slide the horizontal vertical arms down the 1500mm length. I will use 2 nema 23 for each length; one on both sides of the 1500mm rail. I ended getting some 3amp Nema 23. that will be total 12amps to slide my vertical rail on the 1500mm V-slot. One side will have a pair Nema23 in parallel and the other side will have them also but running the other direction. I am guessing for 12 amps, I need to add an extra stepper relay to add more power for the Nema 23? Not sure how to do this? Do you recommend a relay device that is sold on ebay? also, I will be running two more nema 23 for the vertical, using one on each arm to run a screw ball. Not sure if I should run a nema 23 for the Y or use nema 17, did you have heat problems on the "Y"? I also acquired some 40mm fans and heat sinks mount on the nema 23. I did see a video and I need to find it again that tells you how to config. steppers efficiently to reduce heat. I guess the tech was explaining that the right config. on the stepper will reduce heat to some extent.
I will upload pictures soon, I have lots of question.. especially on the bed. I am using a t-slot frame to support the bed but aluminum plate at heater is so expensive. I am thinking of laying a thinner aluminum sheet to the T-slot and running heating cable mounted on the aluminum plate. On Top of the plate, I was going to use a heavier sheet of glass.. the heat temper stuff.. starts with a B? Borislate? and between the glass and the aluminum plate use a heat transfer compound to even out the glass plate as much as possible. Do not know if this will work but a heating coil is far less expensive than the silicone heating pads. There is a silicone heating strip that is much cheaper but I dont want to spend 2800 usd on a custom silicone pad. I just need to have a big enough power supply to run a heater coil. if the heat is too uneven, I think I can run a radiator made of copper tubing to spread the heat more evenly like radiant floor heating? Inbetween the copper coils, I can use very find sand as a heat sink. it may take it a while to heat up but it will stay warm much longer. An oven coil will produce enough heat but It will need a system to make heat transfer even. Also, will need to setup temp. controller. I just hope the T-slot can hold the heating system from wrapping? I image the glass will be expensive. maybe I can get away with 1/2 thick plate of glass? I think the corning ware ceramic stove tops spread heat well?

I am thinking of running smoothie instead of ramp boards. not sure the way to go yet?

Thanks for your help

Printing out brackets for the Nema 23Steppers today. Here are progress shots

I am having a terrible time with config with firmware and the nema 23.

I finally got the TN6600 Stepper Drivers. Hope they work. I will try to use your example

It looks really nice and I was thinking about starting a build, any last minute suggested changes on the design or components? I probably will spend a little extra and buy preformed aluminum extrusions. Great job!

I went through the files and images, nice. Do you happen to have a bill of materials easier to work with than the SketchUp 3d file? Would help.

Cheers, a ton of people have been asking for the bill of materials, i will try to get one out in the next month or two

Thanks for getting back on this question. I will keep my eye open for it.

Looks like 2" x 2" frame but I can only get 0.125" (3.75mm not 2.03mm) wall thickness. All the STL files for corner joints would have to be updated for the added thickness. Is that correct or did I miss something on the 3d file.

Yes, you are correct, 3.75 should work fine (my frame is a mixture of 2 and 3mm)
If there is enough interest I may do a imperial version drawing

hello great design man looks great. ive been looking to make a larger printer to make modular dome shape portable habitats/pods/offgridd homes/cabbins etc i was wondering if your design could be modified to make a larger one say around 3mx3mx3m print area? i intend on building a structure/3d print studio out of cool room panels to put it in. Im confident with the building/electrical side of things but will need help with the tech hardware and programming even if its only being directed to the appropriate kit to buy i can figure out the. any help info and future communication greatly appreciated.

RIP3k watts when heating

This was designed to be scaled up and down, I am looking into building a 2400x1200 version next, just keep in mind if you are using ABS or other plastics that require a heated bed, it does use a lot of power (mine uses around 3000W when heating)
Please feel free to ask any questions regarding you build.

So question, instead of fitting IR heat lamps or what not to make your heat bed why not just create your own by using an aluminum top plate of sufficient thickness and then scavenging the windings of an old transformer? Should be plenty of cable of appropriate strength and those things can get pretty hot pretty quick. Just a thought that may make it easier to engineer.

Should also be consistent heat then across the whole surface with minimum adjustments.

That would probably work, but one of the reasons for the IR heat lamps is to also apply heating from the top down to keep the heat on the printed part even (there is already too much heat from the bottom up)

Duh, that makes sense now that I think about it :). So looking forward to seeing you finish this. Getting my CR-10 in a few weeks and after building a 3d scanner this is definitely a project I want to do as the idea of 3d printing say bookcases (like the cube stacking style not full height 6') or other furniture is really really attractive.

Though question, if you are having heat issues with the motors, or were prior to the heat sink upgrade, what do you predict the effect will be with heating the entire enclosure, and is there a method to further cool the motors with the higher ambient air temps?

This is Mechanical Engineering Student, who wants to make this large scale printer.
I have some curious things about this printer.
The mainboard used in this one is Arduino Mega, Ramps 1.4 combined.
What i want to ask is this : does the A4988 motor driver can endure the 4 nema stepper motors(in Z axis)?s

I have used a 5A CNC driver to drive the 4 x Z-axis motors connected in parallel, The A4988 driver is only good for around 2A max which would not be high enough to give enough torque with the Nema23 motors, however you could easily run several additional A4988 stepper drivers off the main board to drive each motor with 2A etc.

Dear sir, I am facing difficulty with adding TB6600 stepper driver. Here in your video I see that you have used TB6600 stepper motor driver and done some modification in the wiring(Here is your file).
Please sir, I am not getting why and how you have added some additional wire?
I will be grateful to you if you give me details of the wireing diagram where you have done some modification.
Please sir,................ I will be really grateful to you.

Thank you for your kind reply.

I found 4 stepper motors that have enough torque and current.

And I also bought another motor drivers for backup.

I think A4988 motor driver can handle the current of 4 nema 23 stepper motors.

Again, Thank you

Are there any special wiring requirements?

I have not yet put together a complete wiring diagram, but it's not very different to a standard 3D printer, I have tried to supply info/diagrams on the differences (CNC stepper wiring etc.)

is it possible to build this printer smaller? something like 600mmx600mmx600mm? what could be the changes?

I have already scaled down the design to this (may publish this in future if there is enough interest), If you give me your gmail address I can share the google drive folder with the design
It was a simple job of reducing frame member lengths etc

Could send it to me too? Please

Sure, if you can message me your gmail address I can share with you also

Hi I would like to build one . where did you get the build plate and other parts?


The build plate is half a 2400x1200x6mm sheet of aluminium (had to buy the whole sheet so was not cheap)
The bracing underneath is 50x100x5mm angle.

Does this print with good accuracy?
I would like to build something similar, but don't want to waste time and money if it is unlikely to be useful

Yes, it is surprisingly accurate, There are some ooze issues with the 1mm nozzle which I am not happy with yet.
I would recommend running off 24V to allow you to increase non print movement speeds to reduce ooze issues etc

please does anyone have the wiring diagram

I have not yet put together a complete wiring diagram, but it's not very different to a standard 3D printer, I have tried to supply info/diagrams on the differences (CNC stepper wiring etc.)

what is the thinkness of profiles in your project?

also if you can share freecad version of cad file it will be awesome.

Edit: i was saw profiles information on your description sorry about asking stupid question, however freecad version of cad file still be awesome for linux users.

Sorry I could not find an easy way to convert Sketchup to Freecad other than using STL component export/import, but this would be a big job.

Where did you get the double volcano hot end from? cant seem to find it online. Thanks again

It's simply 2 volcano's connected with a 6mm throat with a 3mm bore

Gday! any details on the black spacers around the screws on the carriages? made of rubber? where to buy? thanks for sharing your work btw. hope its still going strong

They are actually silicone/rubber bushes found inside most large multi function printers (they are on the 8 and 10mm rods that grip/feed the paper)
I use them as springs (which you could probably use to supplement), you could also look for a thick walled rubber hose?

Is there a list for all of the electronic components and non-printed components so I can have a parts list for the full assembly?

Sorry, still working on new Extruder etc, will supply more info in the future when more complete

Do you have a wiring diagram to wire every thing up? and what software did you use?

I have not yet put together a complete wiring diagram, but it's not very different to a standard 3D printer, I have tried to supply info/diagrams on the differences (CNC stepper wiring etc.)

The firmware is Marlin (supplied in the download), I usually use Repetier Host and Slic3r for slicing jobs etc.

Hi, Awesome Project !!-

How does it works the kinematic compatibility with marlin? is a XYZ printer? how does it works in marlin ?

It's a standard XYZ H-Bot type printer, so only some tuning in Marlin for appropriate acceleration settings, axis dimensions and autobed leveling setup etc

I'm not seeing the wiring schematic. Am I just blind or did Rikhard get the schematics on special request? If so how would I go about getting a copy for myself?

I think Rikhard was referring to the general wiring images (after the T-Rex image above), I have not yet put a full schematic together as it will change after the extruder upgrade. If you have any questions re wiring, please feel free to ask.

Oh ok thank you.

Super thanks for the wiring scheme. You where the only one who has it correct +++

Great work dude,, Thx for including the .Skp file so I can get a better look at your Design Style-

Great work!
I've been working on a modified version of your printer design and have finial gotten to the point of ordering parts. Would it be possible to get a parts list for your extruder design? I want to make sure I build it right the first time.


Brilliant work as always! What'd the final Z Resolution come out to?

Cheers, I usually print using half the layer height of the nozzle diameter (0.5mm layer height with 1mm nozzle), although I am printing the first layer at 200% (1mm layer height)

I have not tested printing at anything lower than 0.5mm layer height as yet but it should work fine (it would just be really slow)

The printers z resolution is just as insanely high as most non delta printers, with 1.25mm (thread pitch) / 3200 (steps per revolution) = 0.00039mm per step

When you say 3200 steps per rev, I assume you're talking about microstepping (1/16)? If I could get my hands on a .1125deg stepper my head might explode haha.

Hi, I am from Russia, and I want to make xxl printer like it this.

I want to know what are you use motherboard for this project. Maybe you can give me сonnection diagram. It's interesting

Thak you!

Hi, I used an Ultimaker v1.5.7 board because I liked the larger board and connector options for easier wiring, but a RAMPS 1.4 board would work just the same.

A lot of people have been asking for a wiring diagram, looks like I will need to make some time to get one drawn up :-)

If the aim was not to use recycled material, would not aluminium Profles work better?

Would have been easier, but more expensive, also I did use a fair amount of recycled aluminium in the frame and heatbed

Do you thing 45x45 mm aluminium profiles would suffice or do you think 65x65 would be better?

Both would work, although the 65mm would allow higher acceleration settings if you have enough torque available (45mm would be the cheaper/slower option)

would you suggest using the same profiles for all? or would it be better to have the frame in 65x65 and the head-holder (what is this part really called?) in 45x45? That would mean less mass to accelerate?

please provide wiring diagram

Ive been searching for months for my next large build.

found it. awesome work dude!

Cheers, please let me know if you need any info on have any questions

i like the size of this is there a clay printer one im interest on make one for myself

It would probably work fine with clay if you swapped out the extruder with a syringe type design for paste, maybe like this one:

Bowden style paste extruder

Hi I am from Germany and I am fascinated about your large scale printer.

You used the Ultimaker Board... is it possible to tell me the exactly way how you installed the 5A driver and the NEMA23 Stepper?
Maybe you have any serialnumbers for me.

For my exam I want to build also such a big printer.

Thank you for your help.

There are only 2 signals per driver you need to take from your Ramps (or what ever board you are using) to connect a stronger cnc type stepper driver, the P- (pulse negative or sometimes called step) and D- (direction negative) which usually control the small onboard 2.5A 3D printer stepper drivers

The E+ (enable positive) P+ (pulse positive) and D+ (direction positive) are all tied to +5V

Check out this image which shows how to connect cnc drivers to a Ramps 1.4 (what I found and used for reference):

Thank you for your very fast reply,

may have you some data from your stronger stepper driver? And maybe some data from your extra powersupply?

Here is a link to the 5A stepper drivers I have been using:

I used an old ATX Dell server power supply with 60A on the 12V rail (this powers all the stepper drivers and extruder heater etc), although I will be upgrading to a 24V supply in the future for faster non print movements (less time for extruder ooze)

Would be nice to know the watts on the psu. unless it doesnt batter. i have a psu and it has few connections on it because its old

Perfect. :)

Is it right that you finally using 7 NEMA23 Stepper? (4 Z / 2 Y / 1 Z) So I need also 7 stepperdriver?

7 Nema 23 stepper motors (4Z / 2Y / 1X), but only 3 drivers:
1 x 5A driver for the 4 z-axis stepper motors (all motors wired in parallel and driver set to 4A drive current, so each motor gets 1A)
1 x 5A driver for the 2 y-axis stepper motors (both motors wired in parallel and driver set to 4A so each motor gets 2A)
1 x 2.5A driver (standard 3D printer driver) for the single x-axis motor and driver set to around 1 to 1.5A

The extruder is just a nema17 also running off a standard 2.5A 3D printer driver


Hm, maybe a stupid question, but are your stepper motors all the same?

Or should I buy smaller for the z-axis?

Is it possible to fix 7 Stepper like: http://www.ebay.de/itm/262038499806

It would be better if they are all the same, the ones in your ebay link look perfect for all 7 mottors (plenty of torque etc)
You could use slightly shorter nema23 motors for the z-axis, but the ones in your ebay link would be better
Mine are different because they are recycled motors and it was hard to find a perfect match

Perfect. I have orderd these 7 motors now. Also the drivers are ordered. This takes a little time.

Thank you very much for your help. Is it possible to contact you if I start to fix the printer and I have any more questions?


I would be very interested to see how you go with your build, contact me any time if you have any questions etc

Hi, and greets from Germany. The Project is moving on, and i have a question. I have the ultimaker board v2.1.1. I am not sure how to connect the stepper Driver with the board. I Need the 5V signals but I am not sure how to connect?? May you can help me or send me a Picture at [email protected] If you use the Google search for this ultimaker board maybe you can mark the positon of Fixing the wire.

Thanks a lot and happy easter

Hi Miro

I have uploaded a few new images (after the T-rex skull image) which shows how to connect the CNC stepper drivers to the RAMPS board and a few images of how I modified my Ultimaker board for the CNC driver 5V, Direction and Step connections.
Hope this helps.

Since the bed is stationary, would you think it possible to use a different heat source like Warm up brand heated flooring? You can make it exactly the size you want. Take durock, thinset and screw to wood plywood. Run the warmup wire on top of that, don't forget to add and check heat sensor before going any further. Make a frame around this as a box 1" higher than the wire, mix and pack mud (1:3 ratio of portland cement to course sand) use very little water. You want the mud stronger than usual. Take some mud squeeze it, should stay together than bounce it off hand if it breaks in large chunks than it good. Take stick wider than box and run across to make perfectly flat. Let dry, than take kerabond and glue metal to the dimentions of wood frame to lock everything in place. Slip your machine over this square. I use metal bed with kapton tape and hairspray (aqua net). With the bed pre heated I spray it and then hit print. By the time the extruder heats up the hairspray is just the right tackiness. When the print is done you smack it with a scraper handle and it pops off. After the bed is half cooled down of course. This trick I haven't had ripped kapton, I've been using the same tape for over a year. Wipe the bed with a wet towel after a couple times cause you get build up. I hope this helps with your machine. This way should give you the most even distribution of controlled heat. You could even take and enclose the whole thing in plexiglass as well, drafts and people walking by can mess a print up as well.

Interesting idea for a heatbed, could be a great low cost option for a really large printer (something I am looking into)
The current printer is already enclosed and have just finished fitting 600W of IR heaters to heat from above (to stop taller printed parts from cooling/shrinking etc.), Thanks for you thoughts and comments.

I'm absolutely gob-smacked. O_0. Amazing work. BTW, where did you get those silicone heaters from?

Thanks:-), the heaters were found on www.aliexpress.com:

There are tons of different sizes/voltages etc (even can get them custom made)

This is really cool keep up the good work

Cheers, I had no idea it would generate so much interest (regret not recording more of the build process)

Comments deleted.

Need 3mm glass (1/8") and slather with ABS juice to get good adhesion (glass will also help even out the temperature fluctuations of the heaters), with large flat ABS prints you will need about 10-12 loops of brim around object to prevent warping/lifting.

Insane build!!!! Awesome!

Cheers, looked at using 6mm tempered glass but decided to stick with aluminium at the moment due to the proximity sensor issues and large thermal mass increase (may still implement in the future if the IR heating is not enough to solve the issues)

Actually started using ABS juice over plastic primer (plastic primer stays on the aluminium and the ABS juice bonds to that and the part), also using 40mm brims on the prints to keep them down

I meant 3mm 1/8" glass...6mm is almost 1/4" and I tried that on a smaller 220x220, nice thick glass, but a little too thick and very hard to heat, but it heated evenly for sure.

Yeah, glass doesn't work with auto-leveling bed, didn't see that part sorry.

Still a crazy HUGE build plate!

I'm using an 8mm proximity sensor so 3mm would be ok as long as the glass has a metal backing.
2 x 3mm sheets of glass with aluminium foil in between would probably work ok.
Other option would be to use a capacitive sensor and just glass.

Gives me something to think about and options to try, thanks for the comments.

Wow. This is the perfect combination of over exaggeration and genius :) Brilliant :)

Cheers, It's probably just that I have too much time, electricity and ABS plastic on my hands (also run a solar farm)