1200 x 1200 Large scale DIY 3D printer - Sub33D v3.07

by sschm9 Dec 18, 2016
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È da tempo che sto lavorando a un progetto simile, una stampante di grandi dimensioni con l'aggiunta del laser per incisioni, purtroppo non a disposizione molto denaro, devo comprare un po' per volta, per il piatto riscaldato avevo pensato di prendere una resistenza da una stufetta elettrica, con la vetroresina e fibra di vetro ci faccio la base, comunque ancora bravi, è bellissima, complimenti e grazie per averla pubblicato.

I intend to build a large printer based on your components using T slot extrusion for the frame. We have access to a large range of profile and accessories and my aim is to design a chassis and consolidate the parts information so that we are able to provide the components to people building their own machines. I presume that you are based in Brisbane and was wondering if you are interested in colaborating with us on this project?

I am not the maker, but perhaps I can still help you. I am also planning on making a large printer (over 100010001000mm building volume). I will be basing the hardware on the Bigrep one.2 and the electronics and software on this build. Since I am basing the hardware on the bigrep, I will be using much higher quality, stronger and more reliable components than in this build. You can read more about it on reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/bd0q3s/making_a_large_scale_3d_printer/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app.

Feel free to add comments on my reddit post.

Here I attached moter quotation file so please confirm which I used

I recommend these nema 23 motors:
(You will need 7 of them and I would pick the 56mm long ones)

I recommend this nema 17 motor:
(you will need 1 for the extruder. I bought the 48mm long one)

Hello brother
Nema 23 and 17 motor torque ?

Many peopel are confused in this project without perfect parts list so please we request you to provide us.

Hello Brother first of all a lots of thanks to you for buildup 1200 x 1200 Large scale DIY 3D printer - Sub33D v3.07
i am interested to develop same 3d printer for personal use so please help to buildup same as i already download DIY 3D printerproject from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1977727 i have a some question for you please help me or give download links to drastisolution@gmail.com
1) please describe aluminum frame cutting size
2) Particulate Nima23's Nime 17 Motor used for this projects
3) how i get designed PCB or download links
4) other related electronic parts or other parts list
5) program link

1200 x 1200 Large scale DIY 3D printer - Sub33D v3.07
by sschm9

Btw, PCBs are standard ones; Ultimaker main board and Arduino mega
(Also this is clearly in the description, so please read it better next time before asking questions)


The answers to pretty much all of your questions can be found in the description, download links, pictures and previous commends. Please have a closer look. Besides, an experienced 3D printer builder wouldn’t even need most of the info you are asking questions about. In case you don’t have much experience building printers, I strongly recommend NOT to build this one before you have built a few simpler printers.


I was wondering if you had any tips or tricks on how to cut the budget of this build? Some of my classmates and I were tasked with designing a large scale 3D printer and I stumbled across your design and thought we could use bits and parts of your design, but we are limited by our schools budget. Any answer would help and thanks for the inspiration!

Hi @Jmons18,

I have some experience with building 3D printers, so perhaps I can give you some useful information.

Regarding electronics, the printer will need at least one extruder, a mean board + arduino 2560, LCD screen, stepper drivers and motors to move the axis. Since you want to build a large scale printer, I strongly recommend using 4 nema 23 motors for the Z-axis, 2 for the Y-axis and 1 for the X-axis. A heated is optional if you only print in pla, but I strongly recommend it.
I ordered most parts of the extruder so far (except for screws and springs etc) and it cost me about $50. An Ultimaker main board + arduino mega 2560 clone are together about $22. I am not entirely sure about the costs for a LCD screen, but I think you can get one for $25 or less. The 2 small stepper drivers are about $5 together and the 2 big stepper drivers are $24 together. The 7 nema 23 motors are quit expensive; $25 each ($175 total). A 1200*1200mm heated bed is about $250, but you could skip this. Without a heated bed, this comes to about $300 (if ordered from china).
There are some more smal and basic electronic components you will need like lots of wiring (I assume your school already has this), end stops, and some more small and affordable components. The costs for these smaller things shouldn't be that high. Also adding fans to the motors would be a good idea (you can get them for about 1$ each from china).

You will also have to build a frame with moving axis. If you can pick all the aluminum parts somewhere up and recycle it, you will be able to cut a lot of costs. Other components you will need besides the aluminum framing are a massive plate or mirror for the bed, lots of screws, belts for the motors, bearings, massive screws for moving the Z-axis, etc. The frame with moving axis could be very expensive, but could be quit affordable too (depending on the parts you can already find around yourself).

Of course you will also need a power supply.

There is no doubt there are components I forgot to mention, but these are likely basic components you can get anywhere and for a reasonable price.

Also, I really hope you or your school already has a 3D printer. You will definitely need some custom components for a built like this. If you have to order these custom parts, it will be extremely expensive! So just print these custom parts with your own printer!

I hope this information gives you some more perspective. If not, could you tell us how big your budget is? Perhaps we can tell you wether it is big enough or not.


Thank you so much Lucas, this comment helped out a lot and I appreciate the information. I will update you on my classes progress!


I found this 1200*1200mm silicone heater;

Do you think this would be a good heat bed?

Great price for such a large silicone heater, keep in mind it's only 1200W (I'm using 2400W), although they should be able to increase the wattage if you ask them, also mounting your heat bed and adding a frame on a 1200 x 1200 aluminium bed may be difficult (slightly larger aluminium bed would solve this)

I noticed you are thinking about using a pallet extruder. You can buy one here:

In case you want something cheaper, you can try to make something like this yourself;

I recommend buying the one from Mahor since that one will work great for sure. You are not going to want to end up using a faulty extruder you made by yourself because the print quality will deteriorate a lot!

Thanks for the quick response.
The heat bed I found isn’t 1200W, but is 6000W!

I am planning on making this printer too, but perhaps I will create a 100010001000mm printing volume instead. I saw they have 1000*1000mm silicone heaters too on aliexpress.

For now, I ordered the components for the extruder (I love your extruder setup). I was only wondering what screws, bearings springs etc you used for it. I would really appreciate it if you could send me a short list!


No more updates? No more YouTube?

I have been working on other projects over the past year or so, but am looking at re-designing the extruder for direct pellet printing in the next few months, also getting back into producing hopefully better YouTube content ;-)

Thank you sir for everything. i have successfully used four motors using drivers in z axis. now the thing is to connect heaters because i m not getting silicon heater of this giant size.
So can i connect 9 mk2 heatbed by using two SSR 40DA solid state relays?
or now what to do because i have ten MK2 Dual power heat bed

Great to hear about your progress, I would love to see some photo's at some point.

I am guessing you will be running the heat bed off 240VAC and connecting the 9 or 10 MK2 heat beds in series using their 24V connection points (pins 2 and 3), controlling them with the solid state relay?

This should work fine to generate the heat required but please be very careful how you set this up as they are not insulated and could easily short out to the heat bed causing it to go live if not earthed properly and possibly electrocuting someone.

What are you planning to use to insulate them from the aluminium heat bed (the material would need to safely insulate 240VAC but still conduct heat)?

Also I am guessing you will be earthing/grounding the aluminium heat bed for safety, just in case one of the MK2 heat beds contacts the aluminium heat bed plate?

Sorry for so many questions, but in giving you advice I feel responsible to make sure it's done safely.



Thank you sir. but i m using 3 relays of ssr40da and connecting them to 3 beds per relay in 24v connection because when i m connecting one relay at 9 beds and 240v connections, it is getting shorting. So i m using it in parallel as 3bed per relay

So are you planning to use a 24VAC transformer or power supply? (the solid state relays will only work with AC)

Comments deleted.

Hello Sir,
Thank you for your reply. But it's to hard to solder at such complicated position on board. Is there any alternative option so that i can get step, en and dir output so that i can use my external stepper motor driver in order to lift four z axis motors?

also when i uploaded frimware in ultimaker my reprap full graphic controller stopped rotating. what may be the issue.
i fi change the board should i use Rumba board for high speed and performance from aliexpress or not or anything else?

If you are using the firmware I uploaded you may need to disable the discount smart controller (which I used on my build) and enable the full graphics controller in configuration.h


and enable:


you will also need to install U8glib to your ARDUINO library folder: http://code.google.com/p/u8glib/wiki/u8glib

As for the Rumba board I have no experience with it, although it looks like a great board and will probably be ok (it seems to have sockets for the stepper drivers which makes modification much easier)

An alternative would be to scrape away the silk screen on the Dir/Step tracks (exposing the copper track) and solder to that, there would be less risk of shorting between adjacent tracks/pins, although the tracks would be very thin and fairly fragile.

Otherwise you could look at buying a different non surface mount board eg, RAMPS 1.4 and a MEGA 2560 etc

thank you. once when i uploaded firmware to it my reprap encoder stopped rotating. what may be the issue?

Looking at the board layout and the schematic for your board: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1091_Main_board_v2.1.1_(x1)/Main%20Board%20V2.1.1.pdf

It is a surface mount PCB with the drivers soldered onto the board, Depending on your soldering skills? it may be tricky for you to solder to the A4988 driver or the MEGA2560 to access the DIR and Step signals (Step is Pin 6 and DIR is pin 9 on the A4988 drivers highlighted on the attached image), you may not need enable as you can hard wire the CNC drivers to always be enabled.

Hello Sir,
Thank you for your reply. But it's to hard to solder at such complicated position on board. Is there any alternative option so that i can get step, en and dir output so that i can use my external stepper motor driver in order to lift four z axis motors?

Hello sir!
How did your 5A driver Work with 4x2.8A Steppers in paralell. Wouldnt it overheat.

Not really, the driver is current limiting and was set to 4A, so each of the 4 motors only receives 1A max.
I also have fans running on the driver heat sinks to keep them cool.

Thank you very much

can i get full cad model please ?!

The project was designed using Sketchup make 2017, the CAD file is called Sub33D v3.07.09.skp (in Thing Files).

I have also just uploaded Sub33D v3.07.09.stl which is a common intermediate format used by Sketchup and other CAD formats (hopefully you can import and use this)

The project was designed using Sketchup make 2017, the CAD file is called Sub33D v3.07.09.skp (in Thing Files).
I have also just uploaded Sub33D v3.07.09.stl which is a common intermediate format used by Sketchup and other CAD formats (hopefully you can import and use this)

Any way i could get a step-by-step instructions for this, or at least a price guide?

I will be working on a part's price guide next (have had a lot of requests for this)
If I build another large scale printer, then I will put together a detailed build guide

its my email id hariprasad2901@gmail.com,

hello sir, I have completed the framework, but stop at the electronics area driving system, please help under finding the specifications of the pulley gear teeth and belt width and along info relative design data, to make printer.

I have created a more detailed wiring diagram for the stepper motors and heat bed and uploaded as:

The pulleys are all GT2 20 tooth 1/4" bore and the belt is standard GT2 6mm wide (same as most 3D printers)

Please let me know if yo need any more info etc.

What I'm always coming across, is people using these really large heatbeds.... but no one lists where they got them! I've been searching for over 2 years for a place that sells something larger than 200x300mm and can't find ANYTHING!

This is spectacular. You should be very proud. I'm trying to form a non-profit type of community focused group that can be replicated in other communities by following a simple plan. I've found every possible way to get going and maintain stable services for as little money as possible. I've done a lot of small campaigns and am starting on big, targeted assistance programs based around advantages of 3D printing.

I've been using a small farm of i3 v2s with a Rostock Max for longer object while I work on adapting the hypercube design to maximize print volume in less space. I'll probably continue on with shared-frame (side-by-side or top-and-bottom), but your design here is something else. The best way I've discovered so far to provide the greatest benefit to the most people is to target a specific population of people to understand their needs and develop print designs through interaction with groups of people in similar circumstances and building a printing/production format around the single advantage of 3D printing that benefits their group. For example, my first campaign dealt with elderly people who have difficulty with weak or unstable hands. The best way to benefit them was a band worn around their hand that is simple on the back of the hand but shaped to fill the recessed area in the center of the palm and tracked down the crease outlining the base muscle of the thumb to the middle of the wrist. This printed item allowed them to tuck tableware, pens, and similar things in so they wouldn't get dropped, but it also had a series of attachable pieces which would help open doorknobs and jars, or one that held a one way ratchet gear and took standard screwdriver hex bits- the one way gear eliminated the need for fingers to twist and you'd flip the tool over to go the other direction. There was even one which could hold a hand of cards either spaced out to be picked up or held against the table while lifting a corner for poker. The trick on this job was producing the base print for all residents but then deciding on a mix of attachments by observation of which ones got the most use or else could be needed by people at the same time. I'm nervous that I over-reached. I hope to come up with a standard kit of objects for kids with autism to use in therapy. The objects will be from the same file, but each kit will need different custom tweaks to avoid triggers.

After a project is done, the products remain available on request and I plan to market additional, more specialized prints to doctors, care facilities, and/or therapists to keep the door open. There is one group that is dear to me- wounded vets. I'm one myself, though its half of my liver missing instead of a limb. I've been tinkering with prosthetic designs and other things tailored to the disabilities of individual veterans. Regardless of what material you use- even the Taulman nylon I use for heavy duty pieces- can overcome the most frustrating point of failure, which is where pieces join together for no purpose other than print bed size limitations. Joints and points of articulation can be secured without trouble- it's the damn seams that get you. I got here from youtube and the first thing I saw after reading the 1200mm stat was a complete, shoulder to elbow or knee to ankle printed limb in one seamless piece. So, not only will this be the "impress the guests" centerpiece of the workshop, but it'll turn out the big parts of some of the most badass DIY limbs you can dream up. The only thing missing then will be a big enough electroplating tank for the matching nickel plated 1911 sidearm and lower leg that'll be first! Great work, man.

Functionally, do you have an approximate cost for the parts without cutting big corners? Also, I've been looking recently at the GR5 titanium and wrapped carbon fiber parts you can get on Banggood recently. Titanium is 30% ligher than stainless, has higher rigidity/tensile strength (except for torque) and much better thermal properties. Carbon fiber is just feather light and doesn't bend. Are there any areas you can think of where these properties would make a noticeable difference?

Thanks for the great message, I am not sure if this printer will be able to print the detail you require for the prosthetic's, sounds like a 600 x 600 or slightly larger v-slot design may be a better solution.

This printer was designed to print recycled ABS blends, but I guess it could work with Nylon

I am not really qualified to answer questions in regards to suitable materials for prosthetic's but if you use ABS then you may be able to resolve the inter part bonding issues by using an acetone ABS slurry which tends to weld the printed parts together.

I was wondering if you can make a list of all the parts.
So people that what to build can have a list.

I will do this next, as there have been a lot of requests for this

Hi, I am new to the Big 3D Printer Game, do I need separate drivers for nema 23 motors or can I connect them directly to a RUMBA board?

Yes, as the power/current draw is too high for the Y and Z axis drivers on the RUMBA board, the x-axis NEMA23 and extruder motors will work fine of the board

There is an image of the wiring (Sub33d_v3.07_stepper_and_heatbed_wiring_diagram_v1.00.zip), which can be used to connect many different 3D printer boards to external CNC type drivers, I used the RAMPS 1.4 in the wiring diagram as this seems to be one of the most common boards.

What kind of power supply did you use? Volts? Amps? Thanks!!!

I used an old server ATX power supply, which was around 1000W, although a 500W supply would have been fine.
Only the 12V output was used
The max current draw is the sum of the following:

  • 4 x z-axis Nema23's at 4A total
  • 2 x y-axis Nema23's at 4A total
  • 1 x x-axis Nema23 at 2A total
  • 1 x extruder Nema17 at 1.5A total
  • 2 x volcano hotend heaters at 6A total
  • several 12V fans, approx 2A total

Which comes to around 19.5A peak at 12V

Hello Brother

here you are describe Nima 23's and Nima17 Motor but in the market and online site have a lots of variety of motors so please tell us particular motor details with Walt vote and amp to buy for this projects or sent buying links

thanks brother

Hi there, I'm currently in the process of building a 3d printer for a stem competition with dimensions of 400mm by 800mm by 800mm (LxWxH) build volume. no I'm slightly confused how you managed to use an ultimate board with nema 23 stepper motors. this question may have already been asked but, how did you manage to do that, did you need to change the software, what stepper drivers did you use. would it be possible if you could upload pictures of the wiring and the boards to possibly help?


I have recently created a complete wiring diagram, which will hopefully answer a lot of questions:

Dear sir, I am facing difficulty with adding TB6600 stepper driver. Here in your video I see that you have used TB6600 stepper motor driver and done some modification in the wiring(Here is your file).
Please sir, I am not getting why and how you have added some additional wire?
I will be grateful to you if you give me details of the wireing diagram where you have done some modification.
Please sir,................ I will be really grateful to you.

Apologies for the late reply, I have not been active on Thingiverse for some time now.
The wires were added to get the stepper input signals to the connectors so they can be connected to the input of the external TB6600 drivers
I have also recently created a complete wiring diagram, which will hopefully answer a lot of questions:

Comments deleted.

Would v-slot work as easy replcement?
I got some 20x20 and 20x40 so i would like to know if it can

can cad file work in autodesk inventor?

(i solved this myself, did it in cad)

40x40 v-slot may work, but I think 20x20 or 20x40 may flex too much over the large spans.

Hello sschm9.
Awesome build, well done!

I'm looking for more information on your heated bed. I have a 600mm³ printer with a dual zone heated bed and a bang-bang controller. This of course is causing z-banding.
I would like to change it to pPID control and would do so using an identical design to your machine.
I can't find enough detailed information on how to parallel wire the two silicone heaters and properly ground everything.

I wonder if you could point me in the right direction?
Thank you

I am assuming your heaters are mains voltage 110 or 230VAC etc?
My 4 x 600W heaters are 220VAC (around 2.5A each) and are simply wired in parallel and then connected to the load side of the 25A solid state relay (10A load)
I have also earthed the heat bed for safety and used high temperature silicone mains wire due to the high temps.

Hope this helps.

Hi, just to double check with you also.
If I use 4 x https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/electronics/48-heated-bed-mk2b.html (to get 40cm3 work space) and Makeboard (uses Ramps pinout). Would a 12v50a sufice to not burn everything around? I am also not sure if the Makeboard board can handle all 4 heated beds at once (I guess here the SSR saves the day).
I have a clue how to wire everything, I am just scared not to fck things up. hehe.
The rest of the printer uses Nema 17 stepper motors and classic build for which I use a 12v20a power supply - included 1x 200x200 Heated bed.


Hey :)
great Job.
Do you know how can I open the skp file of the printer on Solidworks?
Do you it is possible?
Thank you

I have just uploaded Sub33D v3.07.09.stl if you are still interested, this seems to be a common intermediate format to go between Sketchup and Solidword
(apologies for the late reply, I have not been active on Thingiverse for some time now)

Not directly, but you can export the 3D printer model from Sketchup as an STL (you need load the STL extension) and then import that into Solidworks

what did it actually cost to build?

Around $2000 AUD, possibly add another ~$500 AUD if you're not using recycled components.

Is there a complete kit for this printer?

Wiring, frame, controller, monitor, etc??

I have not really considered this as yet, maybe with a future version.

hello sir,

i have started making this printer , first to learn, i am new to to electronics , it would be helpful if i can have the wiring diagram



Hopefully when I get back to this project I will send more details (once I finish the new extruder design/build)

Dear respected sir, Hope you are in good health with success and happiness. I am sorry for taking your valuable time.
I'm working on my 3D printer where I gonna use Nema 23 stepper motor. Therefore I need high power stepper motor driver. Please could you help me how to replace small stepper driver to high power stepper driver as like that you have done in your 3D printer? I will be grateful to you.

Do you know how to rewire nema 17 so they will run opposite direction from initial rotation?

Yes, you can reverse the polarity of the A+ A- and B+ B- wires

Do you have a material list and set of instructions? I never built a 3D printer and would feel more comfortable with instructions.


Hopefully when I get back to this project I will send more details (once I finish the new extruder design/build), although I would not recommend this as your first build.

I have the GT2560 controller and need the mating connectors for the board.... Do you have the p/n's for these items?

I also have splitters that allow me to drive a couple extra stepper motors, but need to know how these work with the board.

Is there information on these items?



I may be missing something, but cannot find a wiring diagram for the LCD display.... Where can I find this information?


question... I see there is quite a lot of stepper motors. does it matter if it is bipolar or not and if they have dampers or not. I seem to have been fortunate to get more than I need in stepper motors but not sure which ones to use. also would like to how you put all the hot pads together? That seems to be the most expensive item for me to buy. I am considering this board, I dont know if it is wise option: Panucatt Azteeg X3 PRO 3D Printer Controller. I would like to make a 2400l x 1200w x 800h so I can make some very long items. I started purchasing the motors already and several hotend and extruders. I would like not to cut my self off from future mods by being too cheap. I assume you are use the nema 23 for the vertical. would I need to go bigger on the stepper or can I use one in the middle? would nema 23 be too small for the other axis? I see you are using carriages with wheels instead bearing blocks.. would bearing blocks be okay? Also with such long length, what diameter rods would you use? Also, does your printer go out of level easy at that size? thanks for any help.

Most stepper drivers I have seen are bipolar not unipolar, unfortunately I have not had any experience with unipolar drivers, so can not offer any advice there.

The heat pads are 230V and all wired in parallel (yes expensive), they are controlled using a solid state relay which is controlled with the 12v heat bed wires from the main board.
if you plan on using PLA, you may not need to use a heated bed.

For a large 3D printer I would not recommend using rods, as they become very heavy compared to aluminium box section, more weight means higher torque/power to accelerate and de-accelerate the axles etc.
The Nema 23's are fine if you use aluminium box section, you may need to go larger if you plan on using rods (not sure on rod diameter, but guessing at least 16 to 20mm for this size build would be required for stiffness)

Bed leveling was difficult but still worked fine with this build, I ended using 9x9 proximity probe mesh to get a close enough shape of the bed which warps around 3 to 5mm in places when heated. I also use a 1mm first layer height.

not knowing much about steppers motors out there, I actually won a lot of recycled steppers in both 17 and 23 at a super reasonable price. so, I guess I will eventually be savvy on both types. The heating pads on the bigger sizes or custom made pads where extremely expensive. I am wondering it a long coil heater will work work? there are a lot reasonable heating strips out there I have found but I dont know if it would make the bed have cold and hot spots?

I was wondering why you chose boxed aluminum? Pricing that out with V-Slot, I see that there is not much of a difference in cost. Why did you not chose V-Slot?

3 to 5mm is a lot of warp. Too much for making what I want. I wonder if I reinforce the plate with T-slot or Wide Vertical brace if it would reduce the expansion? I have huge amounts of steppers motors now, I wounder if I can use some of them to compensate the expansion then I will have to set up sensors to measure them in real time so it may be over doing it.

though I need to print out meter plus prints, I think I will start with 1200mm one like what you did and get experience from that before trying to make what I need. also, I may need to go to multiple heads printing same print on the bed but it may be better to go with multiple printers. The weight consideration may go the other way with too many heads. but I guess bowden long distance will be the way to go to limit weight on the print head.

I should be starting of the frame soon, I will send pics as I go. Thanks so much

If the space between the strips is not too large then it should work fine, although keep in mind it's the uneven heating that can cause a lot of warping,

Here in Australia the box section was several times cheaper than the v-slot profiles, also the weight to stiffness ratio is better with the box section. If you can get the v-slot at a reasonable price then it's probably worth considering (would be a much simpler build/design)

I used 100x5mm angle around the edges and one brace through the middle to minimise warping, although I regret not using a 10 or 12mm thick plate to start with (6mm was too thin). Also the 9x9 proximity auto bed leveling mesh helped a lot with the warped bed (compensated for the warped shape)

Also, I want to be able to put a jig on the heater bed to tie existing parts to a 3d print, Printing in real time to a metal frame to make a monolithic print from several embedded pieces of metal. not sure if it can be done?

Also, do you know where to get a pellet extruder? Or how to make one? I image you can run a stepper motor to run the drive screw like a filament extruder but how can you regulate flow more precisely? Will you need to run a sensor to measure the flow? then you will need a controller to change screw rotation speed? I have heard of pellet extruders used in huge 3D printers that extrude up to 5 kilo per hour. Any ideas how to speed up printing without killing your quality of print?/

I have the frame made with V-Slot. I am not doing a box like what you did. Using 2060 to make a square 1500mm by 1000mm. The vertical is 500mm but I am running 4 nema 23 to slide the horizontal vertical arms down the 1500mm length. I will use 2 nema 23 for each length; one on both sides of the 1500mm rail. I ended getting some 3amp Nema 23. that will be total 12amps to slide my vertical rail on the 1500mm V-slot. One side will have a pair Nema23 in parallel and the other side will have them also but running the other direction. I am guessing for 12 amps, I need to add an extra stepper relay to add more power for the Nema 23? Not sure how to do this? Do you recommend a relay device that is sold on ebay? also, I will be running two more nema 23 for the vertical, using one on each arm to run a screw ball. Not sure if I should run a nema 23 for the Y or use nema 17, did you have heat problems on the "Y"? I also acquired some 40mm fans and heat sinks mount on the nema 23. I did see a video and I need to find it again that tells you how to config. steppers efficiently to reduce heat. I guess the tech was explaining that the right config. on the stepper will reduce heat to some extent.
I will upload pictures soon, I have lots of question.. especially on the bed. I am using a t-slot frame to support the bed but aluminum plate at heater is so expensive. I am thinking of laying a thinner aluminum sheet to the T-slot and running heating cable mounted on the aluminum plate. On Top of the plate, I was going to use a heavier sheet of glass.. the heat temper stuff.. starts with a B? Borislate? and between the glass and the aluminum plate use a heat transfer compound to even out the glass plate as much as possible. Do not know if this will work but a heating coil is far less expensive than the silicone heating pads. There is a silicone heating strip that is much cheaper but I dont want to spend 2800 usd on a custom silicone pad. I just need to have a big enough power supply to run a heater coil. if the heat is too uneven, I think I can run a radiator made of copper tubing to spread the heat more evenly like radiant floor heating? Inbetween the copper coils, I can use very find sand as a heat sink. it may take it a while to heat up but it will stay warm much longer. An oven coil will produce enough heat but It will need a system to make heat transfer even. Also, will need to setup temp. controller. I just hope the T-slot can hold the heating system from wrapping? I image the glass will be expensive. maybe I can get away with 1/2 thick plate of glass? I think the corning ware ceramic stove tops spread heat well?

I am thinking of running smoothie instead of ramp boards. not sure the way to go yet?

Thanks for your help

Printing out brackets for the Nema 23Steppers today. Here are progress shots

I am having a terrible time with config with firmware and the nema 23.

I finally got the TN6600 Stepper Drivers. Hope they work. I will try to use your example

It looks really nice and I was thinking about starting a build, any last minute suggested changes on the design or components? I probably will spend a little extra and buy preformed aluminum extrusions. Great job!

I went through the files and images, nice. Do you happen to have a bill of materials easier to work with than the SketchUp 3d file? Would help.

Cheers, a ton of people have been asking for the bill of materials, i will try to get one out in the next month or two

Thanks for getting back on this question. I will keep my eye open for it.

Looks like 2" x 2" frame but I can only get 0.125" (3.75mm not 2.03mm) wall thickness. All the STL files for corner joints would have to be updated for the added thickness. Is that correct or did I miss something on the 3d file.

Yes, you are correct, 3.75 should work fine (my frame is a mixture of 2 and 3mm)
If there is enough interest I may do a imperial version drawing

hello great design man looks great. ive been looking to make a larger printer to make modular dome shape portable habitats/pods/offgridd homes/cabbins etc i was wondering if your design could be modified to make a larger one say around 3mx3mx3m print area? i intend on building a structure/3d print studio out of cool room panels to put it in. Im confident with the building/electrical side of things but will need help with the tech hardware and programming even if its only being directed to the appropriate kit to buy i can figure out the. any help info and future communication greatly appreciated.

RIP3k watts when heating

This was designed to be scaled up and down, I am looking into building a 2400x1200 version next, just keep in mind if you are using ABS or other plastics that require a heated bed, it does use a lot of power (mine uses around 3000W when heating)
Please feel free to ask any questions regarding you build.

So question, instead of fitting IR heat lamps or what not to make your heat bed why not just create your own by using an aluminum top plate of sufficient thickness and then scavenging the windings of an old transformer? Should be plenty of cable of appropriate strength and those things can get pretty hot pretty quick. Just a thought that may make it easier to engineer.

Should also be consistent heat then across the whole surface with minimum adjustments.

That would probably work, but one of the reasons for the IR heat lamps is to also apply heating from the top down to keep the heat on the printed part even (there is already too much heat from the bottom up)

Duh, that makes sense now that I think about it :). So looking forward to seeing you finish this. Getting my CR-10 in a few weeks and after building a 3d scanner this is definitely a project I want to do as the idea of 3d printing say bookcases (like the cube stacking style not full height 6') or other furniture is really really attractive.

Though question, if you are having heat issues with the motors, or were prior to the heat sink upgrade, what do you predict the effect will be with heating the entire enclosure, and is there a method to further cool the motors with the higher ambient air temps?

This is Mechanical Engineering Student, who wants to make this large scale printer.
I have some curious things about this printer.
The mainboard used in this one is Arduino Mega, Ramps 1.4 combined.
What i want to ask is this : does the A4988 motor driver can endure the 4 nema stepper motors(in Z axis)?s

I have used a 5A CNC driver to drive the 4 x Z-axis motors connected in parallel, The A4988 driver is only good for around 2A max which would not be high enough to give enough torque with the Nema23 motors, however you could easily run several additional A4988 stepper drivers off the main board to drive each motor with 2A etc.

Dear sir, I am facing difficulty with adding TB6600 stepper driver. Here in your video I see that you have used TB6600 stepper motor driver and done some modification in the wiring(Here is your file).
Please sir, I am not getting why and how you have added some additional wire?
I will be grateful to you if you give me details of the wireing diagram where you have done some modification.
Please sir,................ I will be really grateful to you.

Thank you for your kind reply.

I found 4 stepper motors that have enough torque and current.

And I also bought another motor drivers for backup.

I think A4988 motor driver can handle the current of 4 nema 23 stepper motors.

Again, Thank you

Are there any special wiring requirements?

I have not yet put together a complete wiring diagram, but it's not very different to a standard 3D printer, I have tried to supply info/diagrams on the differences (CNC stepper wiring etc.)

is it possible to build this printer smaller? something like 600mmx600mmx600mm? what could be the changes?

I have already scaled down the design to this (may publish this in future if there is enough interest), If you give me your gmail address I can share the google drive folder with the design
It was a simple job of reducing frame member lengths etc

Could send it to me too? Please

Sure, if you can message me your gmail address I can share with you also

Hi I would like to build one . where did you get the build plate and other parts?


The build plate is half a 2400x1200x6mm sheet of aluminium (had to buy the whole sheet so was not cheap)
The bracing underneath is 50x100x5mm angle.

Does this print with good accuracy?
I would like to build something similar, but don't want to waste time and money if it is unlikely to be useful

Yes, it is surprisingly accurate, There are some ooze issues with the 1mm nozzle which I am not happy with yet.
I would recommend running off 24V to allow you to increase non print movement speeds to reduce ooze issues etc

please does anyone have the wiring diagram

I have not yet put together a complete wiring diagram, but it's not very different to a standard 3D printer, I have tried to supply info/diagrams on the differences (CNC stepper wiring etc.)

what is the thinkness of profiles in your project?

also if you can share freecad version of cad file it will be awesome.

Edit: i was saw profiles information on your description sorry about asking stupid question, however freecad version of cad file still be awesome for linux users.

Sorry I could not find an easy way to convert Sketchup to Freecad other than using STL component export/import, but this would be a big job.

Where did you get the double volcano hot end from? cant seem to find it online. Thanks again

It's simply 2 volcano's connected with a 6mm throat with a 3mm bore

Gday! any details on the black spacers around the screws on the carriages? made of rubber? where to buy? thanks for sharing your work btw. hope its still going strong

They are actually silicone/rubber bushes found inside most large multi function printers (they are on the 8 and 10mm rods that grip/feed the paper)
I use them as springs (which you could probably use to supplement), you could also look for a thick walled rubber hose?

Is there a list for all of the electronic components and non-printed components so I can have a parts list for the full assembly?

Sorry, still working on new Extruder etc, will supply more info in the future when more complete

Do you have a wiring diagram to wire every thing up? and what software did you use?

I have not yet put together a complete wiring diagram, but it's not very different to a standard 3D printer, I have tried to supply info/diagrams on the differences (CNC stepper wiring etc.)

The firmware is Marlin (supplied in the download), I usually use Repetier Host and Slic3r for slicing jobs etc.

Hi, Awesome Project !!-

How does it works the kinematic compatibility with marlin? is a XYZ printer? how does it works in marlin ?

It's a standard XYZ H-Bot type printer, so only some tuning in Marlin for appropriate acceleration settings, axis dimensions and autobed leveling setup etc

I'm not seeing the wiring schematic. Am I just blind or did Rikhard get the schematics on special request? If so how would I go about getting a copy for myself?

I think Rikhard was referring to the general wiring images (after the T-Rex image above), I have not yet put a full schematic together as it will change after the extruder upgrade. If you have any questions re wiring, please feel free to ask.

Oh ok thank you.

Super thanks for the wiring scheme. You where the only one who has it correct +++

Great work dude,, Thx for including the .Skp file so I can get a better look at your Design Style-

Great work!
I've been working on a modified version of your printer design and have finial gotten to the point of ordering parts. Would it be possible to get a parts list for your extruder design? I want to make sure I build it right the first time.


Brilliant work as always! What'd the final Z Resolution come out to?

Cheers, I usually print using half the layer height of the nozzle diameter (0.5mm layer height with 1mm nozzle), although I am printing the first layer at 200% (1mm layer height)

I have not tested printing at anything lower than 0.5mm layer height as yet but it should work fine (it would just be really slow)

The printers z resolution is just as insanely high as most non delta printers, with 1.25mm (thread pitch) / 3200 (steps per revolution) = 0.00039mm per step

When you say 3200 steps per rev, I assume you're talking about microstepping (1/16)? If I could get my hands on a .1125deg stepper my head might explode haha.

Hi, I am from Russia, and I want to make xxl printer like it this.

I want to know what are you use motherboard for this project. Maybe you can give me сonnection diagram. It's interesting

Thak you!

Hi, I used an Ultimaker v1.5.7 board because I liked the larger board and connector options for easier wiring, but a RAMPS 1.4 board would work just the same.

A lot of people have been asking for a wiring diagram, looks like I will need to make some time to get one drawn up :-)

If the aim was not to use recycled material, would not aluminium Profles work better?

Would have been easier, but more expensive, also I did use a fair amount of recycled aluminium in the frame and heatbed

Do you thing 45x45 mm aluminium profiles would suffice or do you think 65x65 would be better?

Both would work, although the 65mm would allow higher acceleration settings if you have enough torque available (45mm would be the cheaper/slower option)

would you suggest using the same profiles for all? or would it be better to have the frame in 65x65 and the head-holder (what is this part really called?) in 45x45? That would mean less mass to accelerate?

please provide wiring diagram

Ive been searching for months for my next large build.

found it. awesome work dude!

Cheers, please let me know if you need any info on have any questions

i like the size of this is there a clay printer one im interest on make one for myself

It would probably work fine with clay if you swapped out the extruder with a syringe type design for paste, maybe like this one:

Bowden style paste extruder

Hi I am from Germany and I am fascinated about your large scale printer.

You used the Ultimaker Board... is it possible to tell me the exactly way how you installed the 5A driver and the NEMA23 Stepper?
Maybe you have any serialnumbers for me.

For my exam I want to build also such a big printer.

Thank you for your help.

There are only 2 signals per driver you need to take from your Ramps (or what ever board you are using) to connect a stronger cnc type stepper driver, the P- (pulse negative or sometimes called step) and D- (direction negative) which usually control the small onboard 2.5A 3D printer stepper drivers

The E+ (enable positive) P+ (pulse positive) and D+ (direction positive) are all tied to +5V

Check out this image which shows how to connect cnc drivers to a Ramps 1.4 (what I found and used for reference):

Thank you for your very fast reply,

may have you some data from your stronger stepper driver? And maybe some data from your extra powersupply?

Here is a link to the 5A stepper drivers I have been using:

I used an old ATX Dell server power supply with 60A on the 12V rail (this powers all the stepper drivers and extruder heater etc), although I will be upgrading to a 24V supply in the future for faster non print movements (less time for extruder ooze)

Would be nice to know the watts on the psu. unless it doesnt batter. i have a psu and it has few connections on it because its old

Perfect. :)

Is it right that you finally using 7 NEMA23 Stepper? (4 Z / 2 Y / 1 Z) So I need also 7 stepperdriver?

7 Nema 23 stepper motors (4Z / 2Y / 1X), but only 3 drivers:
1 x 5A driver for the 4 z-axis stepper motors (all motors wired in parallel and driver set to 4A drive current, so each motor gets 1A)
1 x 5A driver for the 2 y-axis stepper motors (both motors wired in parallel and driver set to 4A so each motor gets 2A)
1 x 2.5A driver (standard 3D printer driver) for the single x-axis motor and driver set to around 1 to 1.5A

The extruder is just a nema17 also running off a standard 2.5A 3D printer driver


Hm, maybe a stupid question, but are your stepper motors all the same?

Or should I buy smaller for the z-axis?

Is it possible to fix 7 Stepper like: http://www.ebay.de/itm/262038499806

It would be better if they are all the same, the ones in your ebay link look perfect for all 7 mottors (plenty of torque etc)
You could use slightly shorter nema23 motors for the z-axis, but the ones in your ebay link would be better
Mine are different because they are recycled motors and it was hard to find a perfect match

Perfect. I have orderd these 7 motors now. Also the drivers are ordered. This takes a little time.

Thank you very much for your help. Is it possible to contact you if I start to fix the printer and I have any more questions?


I would be very interested to see how you go with your build, contact me any time if you have any questions etc

Hi, and greets from Germany. The Project is moving on, and i have a question. I have the ultimaker board v2.1.1. I am not sure how to connect the stepper Driver with the board. I Need the 5V signals but I am not sure how to connect?? May you can help me or send me a Picture at mircokretzschmar@icloud.com. If you use the Google search for this ultimaker board maybe you can mark the positon of Fixing the wire.

Thanks a lot and happy easter

Hi Miro

I have uploaded a few new images (after the T-rex skull image) which shows how to connect the CNC stepper drivers to the RAMPS board and a few images of how I modified my Ultimaker board for the CNC driver 5V, Direction and Step connections.
Hope this helps.

Since the bed is stationary, would you think it possible to use a different heat source like Warm up brand heated flooring? You can make it exactly the size you want. Take durock, thinset and screw to wood plywood. Run the warmup wire on top of that, don't forget to add and check heat sensor before going any further. Make a frame around this as a box 1" higher than the wire, mix and pack mud (1:3 ratio of portland cement to course sand) use very little water. You want the mud stronger than usual. Take some mud squeeze it, should stay together than bounce it off hand if it breaks in large chunks than it good. Take stick wider than box and run across to make perfectly flat. Let dry, than take kerabond and glue metal to the dimentions of wood frame to lock everything in place. Slip your machine over this square. I use metal bed with kapton tape and hairspray (aqua net). With the bed pre heated I spray it and then hit print. By the time the extruder heats up the hairspray is just the right tackiness. When the print is done you smack it with a scraper handle and it pops off. After the bed is half cooled down of course. This trick I haven't had ripped kapton, I've been using the same tape for over a year. Wipe the bed with a wet towel after a couple times cause you get build up. I hope this helps with your machine. This way should give you the most even distribution of controlled heat. You could even take and enclose the whole thing in plexiglass as well, drafts and people walking by can mess a print up as well.

Interesting idea for a heatbed, could be a great low cost option for a really large printer (something I am looking into)
The current printer is already enclosed and have just finished fitting 600W of IR heaters to heat from above (to stop taller printed parts from cooling/shrinking etc.), Thanks for you thoughts and comments.

I'm absolutely gob-smacked. O_0. Amazing work. BTW, where did you get those silicone heaters from?

Thanks:-), the heaters were found on www.aliexpress.com:

There are tons of different sizes/voltages etc (even can get them custom made)

This is really cool keep up the good work

Cheers, I had no idea it would generate so much interest (regret not recording more of the build process)

Comments deleted.

Need 3mm glass (1/8") and slather with ABS juice to get good adhesion (glass will also help even out the temperature fluctuations of the heaters), with large flat ABS prints you will need about 10-12 loops of brim around object to prevent warping/lifting.

Insane build!!!! Awesome!

Cheers, looked at using 6mm tempered glass but decided to stick with aluminium at the moment due to the proximity sensor issues and large thermal mass increase (may still implement in the future if the IR heating is not enough to solve the issues)

Actually started using ABS juice over plastic primer (plastic primer stays on the aluminium and the ABS juice bonds to that and the part), also using 40mm brims on the prints to keep them down

I meant 3mm 1/8" glass...6mm is almost 1/4" and I tried that on a smaller 220x220, nice thick glass, but a little too thick and very hard to heat, but it heated evenly for sure.

Yeah, glass doesn't work with auto-leveling bed, didn't see that part sorry.

Still a crazy HUGE build plate!

I'm using an 8mm proximity sensor so 3mm would be ok as long as the glass has a metal backing.
2 x 3mm sheets of glass with aluminium foil in between would probably work ok.
Other option would be to use a capacitive sensor and just glass.

Gives me something to think about and options to try, thanks for the comments.

Wow. This is the perfect combination of over exaggeration and genius :) Brilliant :)

Cheers, It's probably just that I have too much time, electricity and ABS plastic on my hands (also run a solar farm)