Printruder II

by Zaggo, published

Printruder II by Zaggo Mar 8, 2010


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After the success of my first printable extruder design (the Printruder, see http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:958 ), I wondered, if there would be an even simpler and better design for a Printruder.

This is what I came up with.

Please note, that there are two flavors of the main part ("Motor Block"):

  • Motorblock_v7_TimerBeltPulley.stl
    This design is for use with the standard timer belt pulley, which comes with the MakerBot Extruder MK3/MK4.
  • Motorblock_v7_WormGearPulley.stl
    This design is for use with a 10mm worm-gear style pulley

You only need one of both. Be sure to print the correct one!

The PCB holder parts are optional.

There's a post on my blog on this with more detailed information and step-by-step build instructions:

In order to mount the Printruder II in a MakerBot, you might want to print also a pair of Printable Extruder Holders: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1912


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Hi Zaggo,

Great work! I just assembled my printruder II but the 626 idler bearing doesn't fit into the standard MK4 pulley. I'd say it only works with a worm gear pulley...

Is there a way this could be adapted to a Nema 17 motor? Would you need to gear the stepper motor, like Wade's geared extruder, to make it strong enough? I think that would make this great design even better.

I guess if I'd redesign the Printruder II to contain a geared Nema 17 stepper motor, it would look like Wade's geared extruder anyway. So why not use Wade's design in the first place and just print some kind of holder parts to mount it in a MakerBot?

the tension system that you have is so much better.

you could use his motor mount and put it on the side or top of the extruder.

i am trying to figure out how to do 3d modeling... trying to do it but it will probably be a year or more before i can figure it out at the rate i am learning this stuff

Wade's Geared Extruder For MakerBot

Great design! My only problem was too many vertices on the screw holes - my Makerbot would use too much plastic, and eventually the printhead would jam. A couple of the skeinforge tricks didn't work. I ended up editing the piece in Sketchup to get rid of the extra edges, using hexagons instead of circles for the through-holes.

Looks wonderful, though I'm having a difficult time finding the actual differences between the timer and worm gear versions.

The filament channel is one millimeter more to the right (away from the timer wheel) in the timer belt version. The difference is not big. But I guess it's always a good idea to minimize the friction between filament and extruder...

What is a good fill setting for this? I am using 0.2

I printed mine with my default setting of 0.3, but 0.2 might be also ok.

Very slick, love the open face for quick access.

2ROBOTGUY one way to get the hand drawn look could be.. drawing it before modeling. ;-)


The motorblock looks very heavy.
How well does it print without warping?

mine started warping on the bottom left corner after layer 15-ish...
it eventualy got stuck outside the model and started banging into the screws from the build platform... reckon i'll be getting me a heated build platform aswell...

Check your raft settings. The size of this piece may be causing your raft multiplier to go beyond the build platform.

That's a guess on my part, I still haven't gotten around to building it myself.

bleh...read your post wrong, disregard. I thought I had deleted, but it's still here.

It prints without problems on a heated build platform. Can't say how it warps on a normal platform with raft, sorry.

"Not very well" has been my experience -- It warps badly enough to lift the whole raft within 2-3 layers, and the pathing skeinforge comes up with causes the extruder nozzle to get stuck in the holes.

This is my excuse for getting a heated build platform though...


You might want to look at SketchUp or Vectorworks -- they both have good hand-drawn effects if you set them up right.

It involves several steps with different commercial applications...