Foldable drone frame (wider body, higher ground clearence,bottom access plate) Remix

by mwilmar Dec 30, 2016
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

Really nice job but....After calculations only the hardware without the remote control without the gimbal and filament is almost 260$.A controller with servo cost around 120$ we go up to 360$... i don't think is worth but is very nice idea for parts.AGAIN nice job..

you dont need servo man..

what electronics did u use? or did u tear apart an original mavic. And rip out its soul? :D

I saw a 3000mah BL-53YH Battery for LG G3 which I think specs out as 1.6oz which would probably be a better battery choice for under $6 and a recharger for under $5. Should really increase the flight time.

Comments deleted.

what size screws should i use for the assembly?

check that on my instructables link...

Someone may have asked this already. But what is the assembled weight of this frame if printed to recommendation? Before motors etc fitted?

check that on my instructables link...

I started to slice the firs file: body_bottom_fix_gap.stl but I think the first 3 layers is not good, the slicers (slic3r, cura) does not make a support under that part. Can u somehow repair this to be flat the first layers?

Hello, very nice design! but....hard to print! Could you advice in wich position did you print the component? Thanks

just like shown in 3D files, but using a lot of support material

Can you give us more pictures with electronic/cable ?

once again for electronic, is really depend on what flight controller u use and peripheral u add on that configuration...

Yes, but for example, how did you run the engine cables through the chassis, or where did you put the ESC?

Please give me a setting gimbal mini for mavic in controller bgc

Can someone kindly give a rough estimate of the cost of parts to build one of these? I'd like to get an idea before I go balls deep with this project >:)

Thanks for your response. I have a 3D printer so I'm not concerned about cost to print, I was wondering about PARTS, like battery, motors, electronics, etc.
The price doesn't have to be exact but at least a ballpark so I can prepare for the build, thanks ahead

around $150 to $250 for standard setting (GPS, Motor, ESC, FC, power module, propeller, cable) not include Remote Control, battery, Camera & gimbal...
i prefer using small FC like Naze32 to save some space and weight, but u can try using others...

ucan calculate the cost using my printing statistic (look for my picture attachment) for raft calculation using this tools https://consumables.ic3dprinters.com/3d-printer-job-cost-calculator/

Hello, excuse me for my English but I use a translator.
I wanted to know how did you do to calibrate the engines with BGC?
I have a weight problem, the gimbal works badly because not enough weight on .camera FPV not heavy enough.

Thanks for your help.

I use Autodesk Inventor but it will not let me open the filei mapic_C_mode_V_10.max would it be available in DWG or CAT format?

i have upload the dwg files

I am noobs, before buying any
Is the taranis X7 compatible with the X4R
Thank you

How do i vote for you.. lol.. also i am happy to announce i have chosen your drone design to be my first do it urself drone from start 2 finish! I will update you if i need any further advice-- as your expertise can probably be of a major factor in the development of this project for me!

unfortunately the instructables.com contest has end for this one... but thanks anyway... and sure if u need any help, i will try to help u as i can...

Uauuuuu, great job!!!! Tks for sharing....

Can you possibly send me the CAD files? I'd like to set the STL files to a higher resolution...

i made it using 3D max, all files is in the .rar file...

Well in the rar-file there's only the assambly file. I need the single parts...

Great! but my gps must be oriented at 45 degrees. do you have the party?

Head cover GPS box - square shape - diamond orientation - for Foldable drone frame Mavic Clone

thank! it's good!

u can u use https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2660396
or perhaps other remix on thingiserve

Alternative head cover
by mwilmar

Will give this a crack after the holidays finished. Will salvage the parts from a bugs 2 or something similar which should provide all other necessary parts.

I'd like to help you miniaturize this for a 5" prop (instead of the Mavic 8") and reduce weight as much as possible. I saw a comment saying you were working on a smaller version on your Instructable, would you be interested in sharing your current progress so I can help?

my current progress is in https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2563498... i think this can be mount in this frame with a little mod on the head part...

Runcam Split gimbal arm...
by mwilmar

Hi, I imported the head_bottom_fix_gap and the the base is not perfectly flat. The front right side is a little higher and only starts printing at 0.4 (0.2 layer height).
Plane cutting the bottom by 0.2 fixes the problem.

Well, I am a complete noob in building a quadcopter. Can anyone help me with a list of parts needed and how to assemble it? I don't know which part is better than the other. I need list of all the parts that has to be ordered

well, it's all depend....depend on budged, needs and taste (8 bit, 32 bit, small modul, reliable module etc)...
there is a lot of drone tutorial on youtube from selecting, cabling, building and flying a drone...
my suggestion u can start with building a aerial drone, this drone is more stable and slower than acro or race drone so u can learn fly orientation and else with this drone...

So if I build an aerial drone, will I be able to use the same parts for this dji mavic clone?

for me, i use naze 32 for flight controller because it's compact... but not every one agree w me... :)


Having Issues printing the Battery cover clamp.

Well, it prints 100% perfect however the model has a hole between layers when printing so cant even take it off the bed without it breaking the raised part.

hmm... that's new... try using raft when u print it...

I will definitely go to Unstructable and vote for you.
That a very nice project.
What about printing with PETG ?
What about the Gimbal.


PS : It's too late for Unstructable but I clicked on Favorited
From my Unstructable account (https://www.instructables.com/id/Raquette-Drone-or-Racket-Racer/)

where are the gimbal files?

Anyone make this using peta. Wonder if it would be stronger but maybe to flexible

I Have exactly the same problem like him:
The Bottom Mesh needs to be deeper at point for the arms and the hole for the arms needs to be deeper to.

Sorry for bringing up two problems I am experiencing here however I think this needs to be discussed. I have printed the body_bottom three times, the last time was printed right side up just to make sure I did not have any issues induced by printing it upside down. The attached image shows the 2mm gap between the front of the body and the head_bottom piece. This gap is the result of the opening for the front arms not being tall enough for the 14mm arms. The other issue I have, which was solved with a file, is the 10mm diameter pin that mates with the body_bottom front arm mounting area is too long at 3.18mm for the 2.378mm deep recess it is supposed to fit into. The top pins fit into the head_top just fine as the recess there is deeper than the ones on the body_bottom. I have printed the 20mm test cube which came out to exactly 20mm when measured is all directions.

can u try using repetier host and slice it using cura... because i have no problem using this slicing tools....

i use marlin and cura
I will try

I make some change on head_bottom_fix_gap and Body_bottom_fix_gap

thanks fast reply. where can i Download These?

i already upload it... find it on thing files.... (*_fix_gap.stl)

I now made some measurements in the new and old files. At the Body_bottom_fix_mesh i cant find any changes.
The 10mm Pin for the Body_bottom_fix_mesh is 3,19mm hight but the hole is only 2,38mm deep (in both files old and new one). (see pic arm4 and arm)
The Pin for the head_bottom is 2,81mmm and the Hold in head_bottom is 3,49 THIS is perfekt

The second Problem:
The Original Arm is 14.19mm high (you can see at pic. arm3),
in the old files you have 11.27mm + 2,05mm = 13,32mm space for the arm (see pic old Maße 13,32mm)
in the new files you have 12,55mm + 2,05mm = 14,6mm space for the arm (see pic new Maße 14,6mm)

I hope you understand my problem. i wish i can edit the .stl file with solidworks at my own. But it doenst work for me. How do you created the 3D file?

http://abload.de/image.php?img=armyqq85.png http://abload.de/image.php?img=arm2urqsz.png http://abload.de/image.php?img=arm3vho8j.png http://abload.de/image.php?img=newmae146mmofpnb.png http://abload.de/image.php?img=oldmae1332mmybode.png

I use 3D max, and I have put this file in rar file

okay now i have 3d max and fusion 360
but i have no idea to edit the .max file

but i think u can check my new update for fix that... i think i already fix that...

sorry for being so irritating, but i really want to build your drone :D because its awesome

i checked your new files (see links of photos before) The head_bottom file before the update was alright. ONLY the Body_Bottom_Mesh has to be edit.
The support surface at the Body_Bottom_Mesh for the arms must be at 0.87mm lower. In addition, the pin hole with the diameter 10mm must be 3.5mm deep so that the pin of the 3.19mm HIGH is completely fit into the hole.

3D max is very confusing.

Comments deleted.

I tried to print the lock part. First I thought I had trouble it adhesion. But If you lock closely in Cura you can see the Locks arent on the bed! They are hovering about 0.12mm in the air. Could you please upload a new file?

I have to set the Z axis to -0.12mm. So 0.12mm are missing from the other two parts. But the Locks are working

How do you print the Rear Legs? As it comes or do you turn them 90° so they are flat on the bed?

well, i don't have that kind of problem before... but i think u can try using support material for that...
for the real arm i print it with the arm pivot facing up... because i using crappy z axis 3d printer... but that's makes it using a lot of support materials...

Great design, but where are the gimbal files?

and new version gimbal part still on testing...

Mavic Clone Mini Gimbal
by mwilmar

Does it works with ardupilot?

yes, but i thing it's too much consume space....

What do you suggest instead? Thanks

i prefer naze32, it's small good enough...

I think a pixhawk would be better than naze32...

It's depend on what prospective... If u want a compact fc than naze32 is better, but if u want a better functional and stability maybe pixhawk is better...

I would like to order this printed, but I wonder that I should print only file of mapic_C_mode_V_09.stl.

No, u have to print it part by part in order to make it fly... :)

Thank you.
Did you finsh to test mini gimbal?
I am waiting your new gimbal for printing.

not yet... some change has been made and need some more test

Did you finish testing gimbal?
I would like to print your new model.

currently i still building a new 3D printer for it... i hope it can help me testing and and finish this project... just wait some component i have ordered than i start print and testing it again...

Thank you.
I'm looking forward to your new gimbal for drone.

I am eagerly looking forward to your new gimbal.

Hi I was wondering if you can make a hole for a phantom 3 professional battery

I would like to but, I don't have one for test it...

Where do I download new file?

Great Clone, Do you have the files in step format by any chance . it is ti do some changes

I only have 3d max files...

Where are the gumball parts?

Found it. Lol

Comments deleted.

I had zero issues Troll.

work for DJI by any chance ? You lot troll all the other drone forums so I'm not surprised that someone's infiltrated this thread. The ZIP file is virus free people. I've downloaded and had it scanned by AVG. It's clean. Clone the Mavic :)

I got it yesterday. Virus free.

sorry for your computer, but i just share the ordinary 3D files to the thingiverse, even thingiverse generate the preview with no problem and thousand of other people download it with no problem too... are u sure that's from mine?

Hey. Please tell me how best to arrange the details on the printer's desk so that less plastic is spent on support.

Thank you.

Great work mwilmar.
I have printed and assemble this and am deciding which controller to fit. I would prefer to fit a Pixhawk with gps but space is tight. Has anyone assembled one of these with a Pixhawk?
It took a LOT of hand finishing to get everything to fit ok after printing and there is an enormous amount of support required for most parts. Many, like the "body plate", could easily be modified to reduce or eliminate the support required. I would like to do this if I could load the model into Onshape.
I have a couple of questions. the top of the "Body bottom fix mesh" is not quite flat and I have a couple of layers of support under one end. Is this intentional? I am tempted to print it with 0.6mm sunk into the bed to remove the support.
Also on the "Body bottom fix mesh", is there any particulay reason the "plate" was not incorporated into this part and print them as one?
I loaded both the stl's into TurboCad and assembled them to print but it really needs a new plate drawn and incorporated properly. I will do this soon and post it as a remix.
I also note the lack of holes for cable routing. I guess everyone must drill there own?
I am looking forward to flying this soon as I already have all the electronics, etc.
Regards Chris

Yea, a pixhawk would be much better. Did you ever remix it?

Is there an option to give a 10 45 props?

unfortunately this is only option i have...

Did you print the parts how they show with supports or another orientation?

it's depend on application u use to print this... u can add and remove the support or change the orientation of it...

have you thought of using the connex prosight here is a link http://www.getfpv.com/the-connex-prosight-hd-vision-kit.html then you could get a hd downlink while still getting the small camera

personally i don't know, that's a big equipment... i don't know how to manage the space for that...

Awesome! I don't see the files for the gimbal?

Nevermind, I found them!

Where could I see the file?

Look at his profile and under his other designs. There's one called mini gimbal.

Thank you.
I found it.
Should I print mapic_C_mode_V_09.stl file only?

No, you have to print the individual parts and assemble it. The mapic_C_mode_V_09.stl file is a full rendering of the entire assembled drone. I have printed all of the parts and assembled them. I have not yet installed the electronics or motors.

Thank you.
I will print except the mapic_C_mode_V_09.stl file.

To be honest, I'm not sure. I haven't printed it myself. I would send a personal message to the designer.

How big lipo can you fit in it to get the cover over it?

i think 3000amp 3s still fit...

Hi Wilmar. Like this design, good ideas. I printed this 3 Times on my ANET A8, Printing PLA @ 215 degrees 40mm/S Cura Slicer. But I am having issues with the front arms fitting properly in the body bottom and the head Bottom. Leaves a GAP. Any recommendation of print orientation? could you possibly make the recess holes a little deeper in the body bottom by 1mm & .5 in the head bottom.
Also the locks, increase diameter by 1mm. Have you given thought to route the wires in the Arms?

Comments deleted.

wow, how come u get infected? it all just 3d files here...
honestly i confuse... i hope it's all ok soon...

Hello Mwilmar I will try out your gcods and add a 11% more wide to the Mavic to SEE if my phantom 3 card will ditt in it.
This will be my Bigset 3D print so fare.
Thank for uploading this files.

good luck Trond Bergfald... many others waiting anyone can remix this for phantom... but i still don't have a time to do it... i hope u can fulfill that...

Just curious.... Where have you placed the ESCs?

all electronic except motors is inside the box... i use mini opto esc 20amp for it... or u can use 4 in 1 opto esc, it more compact for it...

Hi ,
I have some question.
what is the motor, propeller and battery you use for the drone ?
what is the max size for the propeller? and battery in the drone (in mm)?
and finaly what is the weight of the drone (without anything in but with your beautiful gimbal)?

thanks for your great job

Hi sebis, mwilmar explained everything already at http://www.instructables.com/id/Printable-Foldable-Quadcopter-DJI-Mavic-Clone-Fram/step12/

You can calculate the weight of the drone body by loading everything into your slicer (like cura) and looking at the filamant calculation :-)

Thanks for your link^^.
Just i don't see yhe information for the propeller.

for me, i use 9450 dji prop

Ok thanks so it's 9.4 x 5.0 right ?

@sebis, jep "DJI Propeller 9450" is like used in Phantom 3 and is 9.4 x 5.0

Is the camera in the gimbal a normal fpv camera?
Which motors are you using for the gimbal?

u can use usual FPV camera on it, but i design my gimbal for mobius or runcam hd action camera using extended cable...
and for the brushless motor i use 2804 rctimer http://rctimer.com/product-1029.html

Hello! grat job! I want to make one but I want to modify to use a SJ4000 camera. Where do you buy the elastic springs? Thanks a lot

it's coil:1mm, OD/ID:9/7mm, height 22mm 6laps... i think u can easily find it at 3D printer spare part store...

Thanks a lot!

Hi! nice design! i´m trying to make something foldable form my DJI F450. ¿Wouldit fit in this design?


yes, it should be...

hello man, i am also on my second print !!! i loved it very much !!! but cant get to fly... is there any PID special configs ??

i am using NAZE32 10DOF runing iNAV firmware, got one simple GPS ublox cheap chinese, 3dr radios for telemetry, and FlySky FSi6 controller !...
here is an video of my very first attempt: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVUixpaZNEY
i think i got to much noise inside the mavic, wirings needs to be more separate...

can you add me as a friend on facebook ??

i will never give it up until i got it flying beautyfully like yours !!! just need some help...

Ja kein Wunder Du hast Die Anordnung der Motore nicht richtig gemacht.2 Motore mit schwarzer Schraube, auf einer Seite. Das finde ich nicht OK! Rechts vorne Schwarz, links blank, hinten rechts blank und links schwarz. So sollte es funktionieren. Die Schrauben auf den Motoren sind ja einmal links und einmal mit rechts Gewinde versehen. Ebenso ist das mit der Drehrichtung.
Da muß Dein Copter immer Salto Mortale machen. Wie im Video.
LG Georgi

now when i want to fly, at least i check it with turn my drone facing all direction and see at my monitor is the compass and gyro reading was right or strange... if u see a little glitch on it (such as gyro some times jump up and down abnormally) don't fly it... fix it first...

hey... i have seen your video... did u test the gyro and compass before it fly? i have same situation before but i notice but i ignore that than it crash just like u... my compass going wild and i find out that my gyro & compass was broke... so i have to change the FC...

REALLY exited with this... When will the gimbal guide be available ? (And also, really good work men, this is truely amazing)

soon i hope, i still busy with my daughter school assignment... and i still do some prototyping of some of my new idea on it... so i need more time to finish it...

Vielen herzlichen Dank es hat geklappt. Der Boden ist auch schon gedruckt.

Hallo mwilmar
Toll, Super - der Ausdruck ist gut gelungen. Zwar hat das Teil noch einige kleine Fehler, aber das liegt vermutlich an meinem Drucker.
Nun hätte ich noch eine Bitte, ich hoffe Du empfindest das nicht als Unverschämtheit. Aber ich baue Dir jeden Drucker, nur mit der Software habe ich es nicht so gut.
Also meine Bitte ist folgende:
Die "Body _ plate.stl" hat an der Unterseite - Oberseite diese Nase zum einhängen in den Rumpf.
Kannst Du bitte diese Platte auch ohne dieser Nase als Datei einstellen?
Der Druck dieses Teiles wäre dann wesentlich einfacher und benötigt auch wesentlich weniger Material und Druckzeit!
Eine kleine Schraube ist da wesentlich billiger.
Wenn ich Dich noch einmal bitten dürfte! Im Voraus besten Dank falls Du Zeit dafür findest.
und beste Grüße

Ich drucke noch mit Windows Xp. Aber ja es funktioniert, der Drucker - selbst gebaut- hat bereits 24 % abgearbeitet. Schaut gut aus.
Nochmals Danke für die Änderungen!
LG Georgio- Ich bin übrigens aus AUSTRIA

Hallo Mwilmar

Also das Slicen funktionierte einmal! Vielen Dank. jetzt werde ich den Druck versuchen.
Danke und beste Grüße

hi georgio, nice to know u.... have a nice build...

Fix Body bottom mesh for Slic3r slicer engine...

@Frumentari, @TiE_Shepherd and other who use Slic3r for slicing it u can download it again...

YES!! I can't try it till I get back home, but looks like it opens just fine for me now. Thanks so much!! Hoping to get back to it next week!

Wow, great job. I'll try to reproduce one and post some result on facebook. Hope you help me.

Thank you

I have printed only few parts, but when I'll finish all the canopy, I'll publish here the result (With a special mention to your project :-) )
This is my FACEBOOK page https://www.facebook.com/friend3D/

nice... i hope my project can can inspired a lot of people...

nice... i hope my project can inspired a lot of people...

man, that is PERFECT !!

you have absolutely great design skills, i get to know about this early this morning and started to print it, finishing the second rear arm in an hour...
i am amazed !!!

where are you from ? my name is leonardo, i'm from Rio de Janeiro Brazil

After having some trouble with the "Body_Bottom" piece, it's the main part (using simplify3D to slice it, 0.3 nozzle, ABS, 60% infill)
It accuses that the piece is not manifold, when i start to print, it prints with missing angles... so i opened on 3D Builder from Windows 10, repaired, saved on .STL again and now seens to printing fine !!!

just in case someone else gets stucked with the same issue, that's how i solved!

I had/have the same issue. I tried to repair it in sketchup and slic3r and didn't have any luck. I guess cura is the solution, but I'm having trouble getting cura set up properly for my printer.

what trouble do u have with cura?

I might just not have everything set up correctly for my printer. I'm going to give it another shot this weekend when I get back home. I was having trouble with the first layer adhesion, which I don't usually have with slic3r.

still having problems with the Body_bottom piece...

have u try using cura engine for slicing it?
PS: I'm from Indonesia

i have fix it... download it again... Body_bottom_fix_mesh.stl

many thanks !!! here in brazil we say people like you are "pica das galáxias"

wich Design Software did you use to design this ?! will you provide the editable files ?

i use 3dmax... i just add the source, u can find at the .rar file...

Ja das kann alles sein und mit diesen Einstellungen habe ich kein Problem, Nur das Teil " Body_Botom.stl" ist nicht - manilfold. Und ich kann es auch nicht reparieren.
Was meinst Du dazu?
Yes that can be everything and with these settings I have no problem, Only the part "Body_Botom.stl" is not - manilfold. And I can not fix it either.
What do you think about?

try slicing it using cura engine...

Mit Cura will mein Drucker nicht arbeiten, Da bringt er keine Außenwände.
Kannst Du den Rumpf nicht so verbesseren , daß er auch mit SLIC3R funktioniert.?
Das wäre Super!
LG Georgio

try my new update... i have fix it...

i have fix it...

Hi, great project i tried to start printing this on my I3 pruse Anet A6 but it's not going like it should be with the arms.. What ( speed ) settings do you use on Cura ?

30mm - 40mm per second

Kannst Du bitte Deine Cura engin Einstellungen bezüglich der Dichte des Materials bekanntgeben?
Bei mir werden die Teile nur schwammig gedruckt, zwar ganz aber es ist alles sehr labil!
Danke Georgio

I use cura engine with 0,2mm nozzle, print in 0,2 thickness per layer using support material all over it, 100% infill for all arm and lock and rest of part are 50% infill with speed only 30mm/sec max... Using PLA and a lot of time of printing...hahahaha
That's my printer configuration... But honestly I don't think every printer will have the same configuration as me... I think If u have a better printer it could be faster than mine...

Amazing work!

I've been asking around for a transport box formed like the mavic seeing as the folded shape is so compact, even with the props on. But I'd need a scanner to get the proper shape as I suck big time at meshmixer. Seems as if you're almost there already though! Any plans for designing a Mavic shaped box?

What would be a good parts list for this project (motors, escs, flight controller, etc) and is there a problem with the motor place?

For me, I prefer 20A opto esc (is smaller than regular esc) 2212 motor, naze32, pdb + bec... That's the basic needs... And for the rear arm I just realized that there is a potentially weakness @ near motor mount because of cable hole, so I move the cable hole to the end of the arm...

Also what kind of flight times do you get with that setup?

Okay great I already have a spare naze32 and pdb w/ bec. Just need a few more escs and ill be set. Would you be able to clarify this weakness (like with a screen shot of where the weakness is on the part?) And will those motors fit without modification. Some comments have me confused.

Remove weakness spot near rear arm motor, separate all arm so it can print flat to the bed & i move other mod to remix....

Hey Thanks for that Nice Project, but the Motor place is for 22xx Motors to small. The Place is 25.35 but all 22xx Motors are have 27mm diameter

Could you please describe this problem more so that I might fix it.

u can remix it if u want too... This project is just a kind of proof of concept for me for now... maybe if i have another spare time i'll do that... but i can't promising u anything....

Just finish First version Mini Gimbal... still tweaking the BGC configuration...

Hello, nice project! Keep up the good work! One question, i have same qudrocopter (Freex), where you placed the motor controller? Is it all fit in???

i put it in the bottom compartment, but i replace the ESC using opto ESC 20A because it smaller... i use only one freex esc which have voltage sensor in it... the rest is the same old freeX...
PS: All fit in even when i put VTX and OSD in it...

Thanks for comment ;)

I know you are busy, what camera are you using for this project? I will want to use a small camera on this Mavic Clone as well.

i using runcam 2 with extended lens cable... it's good enough for me...

Item Name: Runcam 2 WiFi Camera
Angle of Field: FOV 120°
Photo Resolution: RunCam 2(4MP)
Video Resolution: 1440p@30fps / 1080p@60fps / 720p@120fps
Video Files: MOV
TV Output: NTSC / PAL
Interface: Micro USB
Max Micro SD Card Supported:64G(need class 6 or above)
Image Flip(Manual/Auto): 180° Rotation
Dimension: 66mm(L) 38mm(W) 21mm(H)
Battery Capacity: 850 mAh
USB Power Input: DC 5V-17V
Working Current: < 600 mAh
WiFi Transmission Distance: 10m
Net Weight: 49g(with battery) / 35g(without battery)

The lightest FPV HD camera
Support WiFi transmission,IOS and Android APP
Better Button Structure, New Touch Feeling
Anti-interference PCB can effectively reduce RF interference.
The bottom door keeps the micro SD card from popping out in crash.

hello, nice work on this for starts. I tried to cut the whole thing in half and extend it to find a dji phantom 3 board in it and a battery. i was unable to. i was wondering if there is any way you can send me the files of it spliced and widened??
thanks! looking forward to hearing from you

i really want to help you all, there is some request same with u... but i think i can't help u soon enough...
i have some idea for DJI battery and board but still have so much to do to make it real....

soon when i have the model, i will share it...


When I try to import the main body into Tinkercad for remixing, a lot of places are not as they should be. For one exmample, the holes for the rear arm pivots are full of small blocks and shapes. Is there something I'm doing wrong? When I import all the other parts, they look just fine and I can remix them as I need.

Thank you!

hello Kenneth,

for that i really hopping someone can helping me fix or remix it... i know it have a lot of defect on the polygon... i want to correct it soon but i don't have much time right now...

soon i have spare time i will fix this... at the moment my goal is just to print it...

Has anyone been able to fix or remix the body? I tried to use a couple plugins for sketchup to fix the polygons, but once I tried to load it into slic3r, I had the same issues the orginal copy has. I have cura, but haven't gotten it set up for my printer yet.

try using cura to slicing it...

a little update from gimbal project for Mavic Clone...

Nice approach!


Is the cover for the GPS supposed to be a separate part? I can find the head cover but not the cover for the GPS compartment if the files I downloaded from thingverse and sent to the 3D Hub for printing. If you can send that to me I would appreciate it or I can resend the files to the person who is going to print them.


check it again for head cover no box.stl

Thank you, now I have both head covers, I will send the new files to the person who is going to print them for me.

Thank you, sorry to keep bothering you with my questions.

for this remix i merge the GPS box with the head cover...
i do have the head cover only but let me try to find it first... i forget witch update i have that... hehehe

Is there a setup suggestion for motor, esc, propeller and battery with a long flight-time (~20min)?
Specially for propeller and battery the measures are important.
Thanks and @mwilmar "wow :-)"

i think 2212 motor with 20A ESC (try using small opto ESC) and 9045 standard DJI propeller is fine but u have to use a bigger battery... but if u use a bigger battery u have to user open battery cover... but honestly i don't know do it last until 20 min or not..


Open body cover for Foldable drone frame

​I have a problem with printing the newest version. What slicer do you use? It looks like S3D makes a 0,5 cm space between an arm and a "motor place". The yellow model seems OK.

I had the same problem with some parts, especially the body. It seems only Cura is able to slice it properly at the moment...

Last update :
"Fiixed body botom arm holes--> 9/1/17"

Thank you so much...

Hi again,

tested the slicing now in S3D, which still seems to close the holes for some reasons, but Cura seems to render it right now.
I'll try to modify the body bottom using Meshmixer (I can't afford 3DS max) in a way it prints faster by removing the 2 sonar knobs
and flattening the opposit side to remove the ripples, which slow down the printing process a lot. Might be a lot easier with 3DS though ...

Thanks so far, I'll keep you updated ...


P.S. I can't wait to see your gimbal solution. I've played around a bit with MeshMixer and was able to add a gimbal originally developed for a TBS discovery, which looks promising as it could carry a GoPro, but the process of getting there is very painful by just editing the STL files ...

my runcam extended cable and my gimbals motor just arrive last night.. i will working on gimbals soon enough... i home it's work... :)


I'm not able to print the body bottom part as the holes for the
front arms get closed all the time... Neither Cura nor S3D is
able to slice the part properly:(
Any chance to get a repaired stl?

Thanks & Regards


Mine did the same thing. I thought something was wrong with my SD card or something because I can see the holes clearly in my slicer but when it prints they close up. It was strange. I'm glad you fixed this mwilmar, I will print it again tonight. I will upload the arms I remixed that have nearly no supports. Thank you!

if u don't mind can u share the stl too... i want to learn too...

I just uploaded it. Here it is, don't laugh too much. Haha


Mavic by mwilmar rear arms w/ less supports
by Hyprmtr

I'm working on it now. They will be up soon. I'm new at this so give me little time. :)

fixed, download it again...

i'll fix it... wait...

i just put my 3Dmax files, feel free to use or modify it...
but after u modify it, i hope u share that too... hehehe... :)

Is it possible to export 3Dmax in some other format (.3ds) ? No other application can read .max format. .3ds it is possible to import to Sketchup.

i upload it... check in couples minute...

@mwilmar I'd really like to go through each of these parts with you and review ways to make them print with less supports. I've received several orders via 3D Hubs and the costs triple due to the amount of supports needed for printing.

A lot more people could use this and have it printed if we could cut down that number.

i think u could print rotate 180 degree upside down for body_cover_top, head_bottom.stl, and if your printer have precision Z axis for the arm i u could use F_arm_less_support.stl and R_arm_less_support.stl...

PS : my printer have issue on my Z axis that's why i make all arm axis facing up and use a lot of support...

We have over a dozen printers and no issues with precision. Just as an example could you make one side of r_arm flat so it can print directly on the bed?

do u mean like this files F_arm_less_support.stl and R_arm_less_support.stl...?
i just put that a minute ago...

Not quite. An actual slight design adjustment would be needed. https://puu.sh/tfu7t/8cef69ec1d.png Almost no supports needed.

Plate.stl has two tiny tabs or file errors causing it to want to print on a bridge (off the bed) https://puu.sh/tfubZ/43baaa4908.png

Head Cover has all sorts of neat angles that would be great for an injection molded part to look pretty. If the whole frame was on a flat plane the print would have smooth sides printed flat on glass https://puu.sh/tfued/d62b4d8dd0.png instead of printed that portion and those screw holes mid-air.

head_bottom has the same random angle leaving part of it off the print bed (yellow) causing the print to be sub-par quality vs having a flat footprint on the bed. https://puu.sh/tfujh/e6a6df30c1.png

I'm in the middle of printing these parts. I noticed a few of the parts were not flat on the table as well. I imported them to Tinkercad and made the adjustments myself to have them print flat. I also deleted the legs off of the front arms and printed them flat with the exception of the pivot pin which elevated the arm so some support was needed. The parts came out ok but, i'm not happy with the texture on the bottom where the part was supported. I'm going to up my support infill and reprint those parts.

I figured he has done the hard part for us and those small imperfections I can deal with. I am brand new to all of this(about a month in) so it took a lot of trial and error to get it.

hi Kenneth... that's is really great, i can't wait to see that...

wow thanks for the review bro... actually one of the intention when i share this is, i hoping someone with better skill of 3D print and modelling will kindly help me perfecting this project...
personally i just make this project for my self and the goal is just having fold able drone... with my sort experience of 3D print and 3D modeling it's far from prefect...

can u fix all of that..?

Unfortunately our skill is in 3D Printing. We can tell you down to the line width and height how to adjust models for print ability as we've printed tens of thousands of models. We outsource any complex modeling to others in order to maintain focus on printing and materials.

it's ok...thanks anyway... i will try to fix that later, meanwhile i still need to focusing in creating mini gimbal for this...
or maybe someone will remix this and perfecting it too...

Extended landing skirt are tested...

Comments deleted.

adding plugin extended landing skirt... but not tested yet...

mwilmar, can you provide the exteded landing skirts? To use the MavicClone with a gimbal safely I think they are really useful.
Did You try to print them with flexible PLA? Maybe landing shocks could be absorbed like this :-)

Thank You

Foldable drone frame (Mavic look like) Extended leg
by mwilmar

Thank you very much mwilmar, thanks for providing

Sorry, i just realize that no screw hole in the back arm after i print it... i just put the hole back on it...

Sorry, i just realize that no screw hole in the back arm after i print it... i just put the hole back on it...

Sorry, i just realize that no screw hole in the back arm after i print it... i just put the hole back on it...

Sorry, i just realize that no screw hole in the back arm after i print it... i just put the hole back on it...

So the gimbal is for this design? Will it carry a GoPro? I was thinking about using the open gimbal design, but I can't wait to see your design ...
Best Regards from Germany to Indonesia ...

no, i don't think gopro will fit in it... just like mavic, their gimbal is so small and carry only small camera... so i plan to use runcam or mobius camera with extended cable for the optic... therefore i can cut out the size and the weight for the gimbal because it's carry only the optic. The rest of the camera i can hide it in the head section of the drone....

greeting from indonesia for germany too...
these day some says "om telolet om..." :))

Hi.This design is so cool, I really love your work. Can I ask some questions? will the tarot gps will fit in the gps box? and the arm mechanism is it durable?

Waiting also for the gimbal project before I print this. Thank you very much for this design.

i'm afraid tarot gps not fit in GPS box because tarot GPS have diamond shape not box shape to maintain the front side of GPS in facing front...
the lock mechanism already have several modification until now... the last modification is adding bone (long screw) in the axis... and that's making the axis more durable enough for the rear arm lock mechanism...
for gimbal project i'm still waiting for the extended cable and maybe some testing using strom32 BGC gimbal...

Hello Mwilmar!

very nice job!

i make my first one and it works! looks great!

But i have only one problem : my chinese GPS (M8N) is diamond not square and so can't facing front...

i search a long time the good one but dont find it...can you give me the link to buy it for the one you use please?



Thanks for the reply sir.

for tarot GPS, i hope some one will remix it for you soon... because for now i'm still doing the gimbal project...

not if you use componets like small flight controllers i use naza m the gps some 2304 motors etc so everythign will fit

I mean like it lock mechanism and axis... I think it need to re adjust a little...

hey mwilmar.. i figured it out so im passing this knowledge on to you.. in repieter host you can scale it down.. click object placement tab... then click the thing that looks like a cone says scale.. x y z is all 1 so 1 to 1 scale aka full scale i did 0.5 dropped it down to 50% you can go lower.. it covers a 200 mmx 200 mm bed the size of a small 130 frame pretty cool i have yet to print it to see the actual size but its doable for people like me that have 250 size drones and want to do this to them

Yes, I think we can scale it down but some part have to scale down to the porpotional size depend to the function... I will try it next after finishing my gimbal project...

great design, printing it at the moment ... I've been waiting for something like this ...
Could you add the open top cover (like cover_b from your original design)?

Thanks for all your work.

Next I will, after I test it all...

i did just try to print one the top does not fit at all it sticks over both ends.. you could scale it down use a 3d program.. infact i might do that myself come to think of it its pretty cool thanks for creating it but just does not fit

sure, no problem... but if u don't mind take a look at my picture i just attach...
i'm using 200x200 bed too...

yea a 200 mm x200 mm printer it wont fit on it not even sideways though

wait, my printer is 200 x 200 but it's fit... just print it part by part not the whole thing together.... the biggest part is the bottom body, if that part fit than all fit...

could you possibly scale it down for say a 250 size frame i have 250 parts with dji stuff.. for me this is alittle much to print but cool

not for now i think, because it's taking some time to make that... not just simple scale it down... it have to be propositional size and shape all arm and body... and i don't have 250 so i can't test it....