Shendrones Goldberg

by andyshen Jan 3, 2017
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have you considered making a standard base with snap in, model specific mounting plates? I've got the Eachine e013 and would like to upgrade it to your frame. The mounts are a bit different as it only mounts with two holes and the front is about 1mm further toward the rear and the rear is more toward the middle. Rather then keeping designing mounts. You could post the file for the mounting plate allowing us to move the mounting points on the plate and not having to change anything else.

Can you make the inductrix version without the camera mount please!?

Thanks in advance

Wow, any chance to make this frame for the inducrix fpv +? I would love to test it at that size, and the inductrix + having double the flight time makes it an inductrix killer for me.

Hey! Thanks for the great 3d printed frame!

I'm thinking about why You cut ducts to stop "duct effect"?
As I understand, proper ducting increases efficiency and thrust. Goldberg ducts does not cover props and only work like a prop guards.

The Inductrix ducts aren't proper ducts either. I tested this and couldn't get any extra thrust out of a duct, so I just cut them down to be prop guards.

is it possible to make a loose bottom version to? because i have to use the loose top part because my motors wont fit in the normal version. but my motors dont fit in the bottom part to , the holes are just to small.

My PLA print has hole diameters at 5.3mm for the top and the bottom prints correctly. I'm going to try scaling it up.

I made this with Taulman 910 and it fly's well enough but is too flexible with the Nylon top and bottom... The PLA set I printed was pretty darn stellar though. I might put the PLA bottom on the Nylon top to see if that helps things. Good frame though for PLA or similar.

Is there a version for stock motors?

Stock motors? If you mean the Inductrix prop rotation, yes there is.

What infil is best? 100%?

It's so thin I doubt it even matters.


guys what slicer do u use for this print im interested. the slicer im using slice the STL in a sort of zzzzzzzzzzzzz pattern unlike others which id just solid lines?

FYI: I printed 2 in PETG. It works great and so far seems tougher than the E010 frame. I think it's much more stable than the E010 frame FOR SURE.

I will say, though, that I needed a little piece of foam to separate the FC from the bottom of the frame (not the pillars - the middle of the frame).

This may be because PETG is stiffer than PCTPE - I'm not sure. With PETG I'm not using the bottom bracket. Without that foam, there were intermittent oscillations.

I made this part: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2082357
to hold down the mullet mod camera down.

Tiny whoop Goldberg clip

im confused on which version, ill be using the Blade Inductrix 3-n-1 control unit, 6x15mm crazepony motors

Use the inductrix version, if the motors won't go in use the inductrix loose motors version.

thxs brother also If I may ask what is the best 1s for this(fitment wise/flight time)? link plz

Haven't heard of one that doesn't fit yet, I like the tiny whoop batteries, I use the power whoop connector, you lose less voltage with it. https://www.tinywhoop.com/collections/all/products/tiny-whoop-hv-1s-battery-powerwhoop-connector-type-for-tiny-whoop?variant=28499867585

where can I find the 3 blade props, I only found 4 bade

excellent site love it!!! thx you for the help

Andy thxs you design is top notch but im a newb, and WTF is a pillar and how would I add such a thing LOL. sry

It's just a vertical piece that sits off to the side that makes the hot end move away from the part you're printing. The top of the frame is so small the hot end will just melt it if there isn't a pillar.

Can one simply use "minimal layer time" option in the slicer to slow down layer advancement too quickly?

Or is it commonly thought to keep printing to "waste" time in order to keep filament flowing rather than dwell?

Which slicer do use I have Pango on the Trinus3d Printer this slicer Has no pilar?

Uploaded 'tower', you can use that.

Any setting recommendations for the Nylon? Im using robo r1+ at 240 degrees

Any luck? I'm loathe to give printing tips as my approach to printing is akin to throwing darts blindfolded.

Im trying the goldberg bottom on S3D now vs MatterControl which ive been using. It printed and all just with a lot of stringing and extra oozing. Its serviceable but not pretty. Im not really a dialing in expert.

Mess with retraction distance and speed. More retraction, faster.

A lot better with S3D, at least for the goldberg bottom. Too bad I just ran out of Nylon =X

OK, I think I figured out my problem. The loose motors version is only in the beta version. Any chance there is a loose motors version for the stock board? I am putting together a build that students will use for an fpv class I am teaching at a summer camp. They will build it and form race teams to compete against each other.

I'll get on that later today.

Thanks Andy. I have been following your work for a long time. We run with some of the same people, I was at the DJi offices a few weeks ago racing with Brian Walk and Steve Cohen. I look forward to meeting you sometime soon.

Cool! Uploaded a file, let me know how that works for you.

Everything fit perfect, thanks.

Trying to figure out if I did something wrong. I printed a goldberg frame and I moved everything into it. I am just printing with pla to test, will print with some ptcpe when it arrives. I printed the loose motors version because the motors fit better.
The problem is, it flies completely out of control. It hovers ok for a bit, then it will not climb at all and it goes any direction it wants. I have ss motors and the 205 tw batteries that have about 5 charges on them. Is the board bad? Are the batteries bad? Everything I hve read says the frame should work. Help here is appreciated.

Which board and which frame are you using?

I am experimenting right now. The stock frame was not flying well at all, but I think it might be a battery issue, I think they may be at the end of their life. I have the bee brain now, going to get it going with clean flight (still have to learn about that part).
The main idea is, I want the kids to put it together themselves, so that when the camp ends, they will know how to fix it.

Just wanted to say that your designs are gorgeous. I also find your blog posts re: the frame design to be fascinating; it's so much fun to read about the whole process and iterations that you go through.

I'm definitely going to give this a go - I'm so tired of glueing my whoop frames back together.

Thanks so much for all your hard work and documentation! look forward to seeing more!

What is the weight of that frame with Taulman 645 and/or PCTPE?

Great design, not sure what you mean by piller needed?

You need a vertical element next to it so that the hot end moves away from the cam mount, giving it time to cool. If you don't use a pillar (or print multiples) the cam mount ends up a gooey mess.

Nice, I used a small support for the battery holder as well so it didn't sag. I also scaled it up on the z axis 1 mm to allow for the slightly larger batteries.


Is there anyway to get a version for 7mm motors ?

Same size props? Motor size the only change?

55mm props would be perfect for 7mm, then we could use Hubsan props.

I printed it in pla, it looks and feels pretty good. The motors are just not quite fitting. I tried to modify it carefully with a dremel, no luck, printing another one now. I used Makerbot desktop and printed with standard settings for the most part.

Just saw that there is a loose motors version, I'll try it.

Do you guys 'flatten' the model to print it ? Curious why it is standing up by default as it says 'without support'. What settings for simpilfy 3D ? I flattened it and it seemed to slice it oddly (fail). Ordered some PCTPE and will report on how that goes later.

It's standing up 'cause that's how it imports into Thingiverse and I don't know how to turn it! Yes, flatten it.

Has anyone tried this with regular pla? Would it be too stiff?

ive printed it with pla and its is working well.

Nice, I have printed it with pla as well. So far, so good. I just have to try to fly it like a 10 year old to see how it holds up.

I would like to see this with8.5x20mm motors , swinging 55mm props, 20-30° cam tilt

1s or 2s? Do you have a link for a typical battery?

We have faith in you sir. You can do it!

Any 600-850 mah 1s.
Nanotech 600 or 850

I couldn't get this to print in Simplify 3D or Cura. Neither program would slice the model correctly ?? Sure would like to get it to print.

A bunch of use s3d, no problems. What's it doing?

When I import the stl file it looks just great. I then have to rotate it 270 degrees and drop to the table to get it right side up. Then when I have it prepared to print a lot of the model is missing. The rings are only 1/3 there and there's other missing stuff. I did run it through a couple of fixing programs and it's much better, but still the rings have two holes in them and the web connecting two of the FC supports are not there, leaving them free standing. Any ideas ??

I'm no expert on printing but what's your nozzle diameter?

Will it slice it correctly at .4? That's what I'm using.

Good thought. Just to try smaller numbers to see if it would effect the slicing, I tried nozzle sized down to 0.18 mm and filament size to 1.75 mm but the sliced model still had lots of missing parts. On a good note, I used Cura to slice and print the model and it worked pretty good. Only issue was that when the duct rings were printed, the printer first laid down a bunch of small dots (supports?? didn't have supports turned on) in the first layer, then with the second layer it started printing the duct rings. Also it didn't start printing the motor holding rings until the 3rd layer, which caused them to bridge, and bridging a circle was touch and go. Thanks for the response.

I am having the same issue with the dots on outer ring... which then creates an issue with the motor mounts. I am also using Cura, did you figure out this issue?

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10 degrees of tilt.

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What about some cam tilt? :) It makes me fly faster ;)

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Thanks for that awesome design! Loved the blogpost on it!

6mm motors.

Hi again Andy

Would it be easy to make a 8,5mm version also ? :)