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Open/Closed Sign

by Quintox303, published

Open/Closed Sign by Quintox303 Jan 4, 2017

Contents

Design Tools

Fusion 360

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Thing Statistics

14481Views 1896Downloads Found in Signs & Logos

Summary

Inspired by Ikeda Yosuke's open/close sign design which relies on gravity and relatively frictionless joints, I decided to design one using planetary gears to drive the movement of the letters. An animation of the transition can be seen here: https://youtu.be/TmrUlpgojlY
The model has now been updated to include the "d" in closed but the video is of an older version. Video of movement and assembly will be uploaded soon.

The gears are made to snap fit onto their respective axles, tolerances for rotational and press fit parts have been confirmed and should work well with a properly calibrated printer.

Updated 24/3/17:

  • D in "closed" has finally been added to the design. Using the joiner.stl piece, the letter d should lay perfectly over the top of the c and the l. First glue the joiner to your gear_right in the correct position and then glue it to your letter d to allow proper alignment.
  • Type has been refined a little bit, particularly on the letters e, d, c, and l.

Updated 11/2/17:

  • Registration points added for letters to attach to gears
  • Split base plate for smaller build platforms (minimum build size required 160 x 160 mm)
  • Refined font to remove sharp edges
  • E and S/N has been chamfered on the bottom edge to avoid catching
  • Planet gears and gear_left have been heightened by 1mm in order avoid contact with the axle
  • gear_left has modified gears to only allow rotation in the direction such that letters don't touch each other (idea by frankvdh)

Still To Come:

  • Hand crank and motorised version - will include instructions for electronics
  • Smaller base version similar to remix by hirorin
  • Standing base for desktop display
  • I will finally get around to printing it!

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I printed one at full size.

It's hard to align the letters. Also, it would be much easier to glue to letters on if the two small gears were slightly taller.

Finally, the back panel needs to be split in half for printers such as the Prusa i3 MK2

Thanks for making it :) I'll work on those suggestions. How did the snap fitting of the gears on their axles go? and do they spin freely?

The snap fitting worked fairly well. I printed with 3 perimeters so I think that made the pins have less give to them (i.e. more stiff).

Thats good to hear, I'm redesigning it right now to add some registration points for the letters and making those gears a bit taller too

I've built one now, 66% scale, with my D mod. It's pretty rough, but an almost working prototype.

Photos: https://www.dropbox.com/s/radvad64barvccl/20170126_090359.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/vea83ro4ybnyb1a/20170126_090445.jpg?dl=0

Some feedback:

  1. Correct positioning of the letters is difficult. Some alignment bumps in the gears, with corresponding holes in the backs of the letters, are really needed for this to be workable.

  2. Positioning of the E and S are critical. As the S spins, it can hit against the E in various places. I pruned off quite a bit of the S to get clearance, but that might just have been needed because I didn't have them positioned properly in the first place.

  3. My design for the D attachment wasn't strong enough. I added some hot glue, which holds the D nicely. Some care needed in the design of this so that the E doesn't hit it.

  4. I've broken both the E and S axles in the right main gear, but that could be because of the interference above. Gluing them back in almost the right place probably caused more of the interference. Maybe on a full-size one, the axles would be strong enough?

  5. The base was too big for my printer, so I cut it in half with a jigsaw-connector to join back together and maintain alignment. That's also why I trimmed the corners off.

  6. The open photo is taken at an angle to disguise the fact that the D/P doesn't line up well with the CL. ;)

  7. Do you want to make these mods to your model, or should I do it and share as a remix?

Hey, thanks for the feedback. I still haven't gotten around to printing one myself so I can't offer any help yet with getting yours to work, but you're right about needing some points for alignment. I've been pretty busy recently but I'm going to get back into the design soon. Thanks for printing it :P ill strengthen those axles too haha

Comments deleted.

Had a thought... this would be fun to combine with my http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1303826

Evolution Door
Comments deleted.

I was thinking. And this might have already been mentioned. But if you could attach "d" to the "e" and have it just slightly above the letters. It could be rigidly attached and in the "open" position it wolud cover and match the "p"

But when in the closed position because it followes the "e" you would have a "d" on the end. I think, lol

Uh, no, sorry. The "e" is in the same orientation in both "open" and "close"... in the end, it is just translated sideways (although the actual path is curved and there's I think a 360 degree rotation along the way). So if the "p" (or a "d" overlaying it) was attached rigidly to the "e" in the "open" position, it would still be a "p" before the "e" (overlaying the "s") in the "clospe" ;) position.

Is there a gear missing? A centered small gear for the right?

Haha oops! Yes, it was missing.. my apologies. It's uploaded now as "gear sun"

lol, no worries, I kept flipping the large right gear around in S3D in case I was missing it.

FYI: It fills a Folgertech FT5 build plate exactly. Just enough room to print the back piece, but just, lol

Oh sweet :) that's good to know. If you do print it, let me know how everything works lol like if there's enough space between the axles and the gears so that they can spin properly.. I'm still figuring Al that out

Beautifully done!

I've been dabbling with this idea (but using levers & weights to turn the e and n as per the original design) for some time, without actually solving it. Kudos to you!

Some suggestions...

  1. Make the LH gear teeth extend slightly beyond the end of the base, to make it slightly easier to turn.
  2. Only put teeth on bottom half the gears (when in the open position), so that it stops at the right places. Knurl the top half of the LH gear for finger grip
  3. Or fill in the gaps between a couple of teeth so that it stops in the right positions.
  4. I'd thought to have the 'd' slide out from inside the base, or from between the base and RH gear. But a gear to rotate it about 90 degrees should work.
  5. Another thought for the 'd' is to have it sit over the 'p' in the open position, and rotate into place attached to the RH gear.
  6. Would you share your Fusion360 source files?

Frank

Thanks for the suggestions :D I'll definitely be adding knurling and removing half of the gears to my to-do list. I have an idea for the d to be sliding out on a rack and pinion gear, which I'm sure I'd be able to do.. just haven't gotten around to it yet haha.I've uploaded a STEP file which you should be able to import into whichever cad program you'd like and edit it :)

Jan 6, 2017 - Modified Jan 6, 2017
frankvdh - in reply to Quintox303

Thanks for the STEP... I've been playing with it on OnShape.com. Here's a screenshot of my idea #5 for the D https://www.dropbox.com/s/dmb5x3fwl2f6pmb/Capture.PNG?dl=0

Another thought... it would probably be a good idea to chamfer/fillet the bottom edges of the letters and the top edges of the gears so that they don't catch on each other.

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