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Tiko Spool Holder

by walter, published

Tiko Spool Holder by walter Jan 6, 2017
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Filament spool holder for a Tiko, designed to fit in Tiko's spool holder cavity and work with standard spool sizes. There are two versions, the smaller version 84mm is pictured. This one was designed to be small enough to be printable on a Tiko, but large enough to work the the spool that comes with the Tiko. The larger version should work with the widest spools that I've seen (here's a list of spool dimensions - http://thrinter.com/empty-spool-weights/). You can also modify the design on Onshape

I find that most spool holder in this style work well until the spools are almost empty. When the filament is running out, especially with the lighter spools, the pull of the filament can knock the spool off the bearings. Usually the spool is light enough at that point that nothing bad happens, but it's worth keeping in mind if you use this spool holder.

Assembly requires some M5 screws, M5 washers, bearings, and ball-end hex wrenches. You can use different combinations of bearing sizes to match the filament spools you're using. Use the washers to prevent the bearings from binding on other parts.


  • The Tiko spool and an Atomic Filament spool are in the pictures.
  • I find 16mm bearings on the outside for the Tiko spool with 14mm bearings on inside seems good for most of the spools I use regularly, but haven't done much testing.
  • Use small washers between the plastic and bearings to keep them from binding.
  • There are some large printable washers to help align smaller spools, but I haven't needed them yet.
  • When spools are running low, they may not have enough weight to stay on the bearings.
  • This is a work in progress, and has not been tested very thoroughly and may change.

-- Eustathios

-- Atomic Filament Transparent Red PLA

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Walter, I really like this solution. So I would like to make some suggestion that may help. I am not mechanically inclined so take this with a grain of salt.

My suggestion may help with any size of spool and reduction is bearings. If a threaded rod is used across each of the spool stands with the bearings being able to move across the rods then any size spool could be used and you would not need two sizes of bearings. You would need some nuts on both sides to hold the rod and for each bearing. Not sure how this would work but may be worth thinking about it.

Thanks again for a good solution.

Hi, I'd like to know what program you used to model this? I've been trying to import it into onshape, but no luck yet.

It was made in Onshape and should be available publicly under the link in the summary (under Onshape).

If that isn't working, here's the Onshape link directly:

I think it should allow you to make a copy and modify it, but I've never actually tried modifying someone else's Onshape design so I'm not really sure.

How do you orient them so filament moves freely in to Bowden tube?

I have the inch or two of filament tube half way between the two sides of the spool holder and let the filament go wherever it wants. That seems to be working pretty well, there is very little resistance on the spool. I might put a hole through one of the spool holder to run the filament though if I figure out a good place for it, but will have to use it more to see where that would go.

I did order a longer feeder tube (hasn't arrived yet), I find it's awkward to try to load the filament with such a short tube. I'm usually holding a spool of filament with one hand and trying to load the filament with the other so I think a longer tube would help.

Sounds good. Where did you get longer tube?

I really like this design. Will try printing the large one tomorrow. Thanks!

What's the washer for? Also - great idea! From a fellow Tiko owner - thanks a bunch!
@jneilliii - I'm really enjoying mine, prints aren't perfect every time, but being my first printer I have no regrets on the purchase.

The washer is for alignment when using smaller spools, it can prevent the spools from sliding too far towards one side. Especially with the narrower spools, you want to make sure that one of the rims doesn't slide into the gap between the screws. I didn't use any since I've used different sized bearings to help center the spools and that's worked pretty well so far, but I think I'll need them later as I try out the narrower spools.

How has your printing experience been with the Tiko? I have one waiting in the office to pick up after getting back from vacation and have been seeing several videos of people having issues printing on it. I don't expect it to be as good as my Ord Bot Hadron, but was just curious.

I haven't had a chance to use it too much, but setup was very quick and easy, it's quiet, and very portable. There are a lot of things I like about it, especially for the price, but the print quality has been pretty bad on my first prints with the built in slicer. I'm hoping that things will get better though. With Tiko working on improvements and with many thousands of users out there, I'm pretty sure we'll figure out ways to get it working better soon.

When printing with Tiko, turn the temp to 200 and then click Manual Calibration, then skip. Less skips and no layer slips. Had several successful prints now.

I've only tried mine a couple of times. I'll have to try that method!