Anet A8 Bowden Extruder - The easy way

by Mafiatorte, published

Anet A8 Bowden Extruder - The easy way by Mafiatorte Jan 8, 2017


This is an all-in-one upgrade kit to get a bowden extruder for your anet a8. My target was to use as many parts as possible from the original kit, so most parts used for the upgrade are spare or original parts from the kit or parts you could print by yourself.

In addition you will need to M10 Push Fittings and some teflon tube which is available as a kit at Banggood:

The only other parts I added are some M3 and M4 nuts and washers.

The mounting adapter was taken from 3Dator´s Bowden Extruder
The motor block was customized from Lancervo21´s Anet A8 Bowden update
All screw threads were generated with Poor man´s openscad screw library

Print Settings


Anet A8




Print the pneumatic_adapter with 100% infill as this has to be pretty solid. The other parts were printed at 50% but less may be good as well.

The adapter has to be rotated by 180° before printing.


Step 1

Print all the Parts and make sure the all holes have the correct size. You may need to use a drill to make them wider, especially the one the filament will pass through.

After that, attach the push-in Fittings as shown in the pictures below.

Step 2

Disassemble the extruder, you will have to take it completly apart for the conversion. After that, begin with the reassembly as shown in the pictures.

For attaching the fan to the hotend I left out the heatsink as I don´t see it´s purpose anymore. As a spacer between the fan and the aluminium block my Anet A8 extruder lamp could be used. This is not the perfect solution but it does the job. As an alternative you could also use some nuts as spacers.


Make sure everything fits very tight

Step 3

Now we will start to assemble the extruder Motor.

All needed parts

How the mounting adapter is positioned

Add an additional M4 nut to the screw as spacer

assembly of the feeder block

should look like this

make sure the pinion gear is aligned correctly, put away the black part after that

now attach the feeder block to the motor. I originally wanted to use fitting screws but I could not find any so I used two washers

now attach the black part and mount the spring between both parts.

Step 4

Congrats, you´re almost done.

As I could not find an appropriate spot to mount the motor on the printer frame, I mounted the whole printer on a piece of wood and put the motor next to it.

Now you just have to attach the teflon tube and connect the motor to the mainboard again.

You may have noticed that the color of the adapter changed during assembly. The reason is pretty simple, the gray part was printed with 50% infill like the other but broke at one point during assembly so I had to print it again.

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Using the original motor block (metal) of the extruder to connect to the heatbreak is genius.

Anet should consider altering their design to this one.

Great build.

yes!!! I was wondering about the pneumatic adapter. I saw how big the e3d v6 fittings were and this solved it! Nice work

can this be used with the existing hotend on the A8?

Yes, only few additional parts are needed.

First off, thanks for the design. I appear to get smoother printing now.
I have a question though. What cooling nozzle do you use since this lowers the hotend by about 3-5mm?


how much were you able to increase your printing speed settings with this setup?

Today i switched to this solution with the original hotend but printings since now are of less quality?
I printed the same thing with the same PLA and same settings.
My tube is about 80 cm. 4mm outer and 2mm inner.
Is this because of the gap inside the tube from 1.75 mm PLA to 2 mm tube.

Any suggestion will ne welcome ...

Sorry to ask but what is the purpose of this part. I get the mouting bracket but the second part doesn't make any sense to me since the original metal already have holes for the push fittings.

Instead of that printed pneumatic adapter, I used a pc4-m6 adapter directly into the base acrylic bracket. the bottom acrylic part of the extruder assembly had m6 thread already, and the pc4-m6 has m6 thread at the bottom and inside 4m diameter for teflon tubing as well. so even simpler. I don't understand why you would use an m10 pneumatic fitting if you have to source one and then use an abs threaded part around heat.

I should also say this was a brilliant and simple idea of Mafiatorte's. I struggled with e3d clones for two weeks, constant jamming, wrong nozzle fan heights, auto level sensor height issues, and his idea was so simple, I had thought of this myself but when I saw his efforts and just put in that pc4-m6 pneumatic fitting and connected to my bowden tube that part has worked flawlessly ever since. ( albeit with many other non related issues ;D )

I did add two 6mm spacers as the creator suggested, to ensure the pneumatic fitting would stay cool, I don't know if it would have anyway without the fan I've never tried!

I just ordered this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EAIXE3C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
fingers crossed this will all work! Thank you both.

When I started this build I had no idea about teflon tubes and pneumatic fittings and what size I need for what. I just saw that 1m tube + two fittings kit from gearbest that I linked in the description. For me it was the easiest way to purchase this kit and print an adapter. I later looked for pc4-m6 fittings on amazon but could not find any.

From two months of experience with the printed adapter near the hotend I would say that there is nothing to worry about. I only broke one adapter during assembly because of stupidness, the one I have currently installed is even made from PLA and lasts for about two months now (sometimes even without the fan in place)

Thank you for the great instructions. Looks quite easy to rebuild.
Did you see any difference in printing quality?

I also may usa a M8 to M6 adpater in metal (standard part) cause i have no ABS filament. I think PLA wont last long.

I guess you could use any kind of adapter.

In my case, printing quality increased by a pretty large amount.

Can the pneumatic adapter be printed in PLA?
I would think this area is quite hot!

In fact the one in the picture was printed from PLA but I would recommend ABS for obvious reasons.

The Part definitively gets some heat but with the Fan in place I did not experience any problems. I have this design running for about 3 weeks now even with some pretty long prints and it still works like a charm.

This would be placed somewhere on the frame far away from the hotend, so it shouldn't get that hot?

Not according to the second picture (left to right)
I thought this was so that an M9 pneumatic coupler could be threaded right into the nozzle inlet.

That zone ought to get a lot of heat from the nozzle heater block!

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