Anet A8 Electronics Case (mainboard, octopi, step-down converter, relay and fan.)

by zadthebad, published

Anet A8 Electronics Case (mainboard, octopi, step-down converter, relay and fan.) by zadthebad Jan 11, 2017
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This is a remix/overhaul of a previous case for the Anet A8. i have cleaned up the cases mounting and other areas. changed the cable opening and moved a bit of the mounting locations. i have added a step-down converter mount and mounting location under the raspberry pis mounting location. the arrow on this mount goes with the arrow on the converter. I have also added fan mounting and covers. one set will work with the fans included mounting screws with 2 attaching the fan to the case and 2 attaching the cover to the fan. the other set needed a M3x25mm screws to go from the cover to the case cover with the fan wedged between.

EDIT: V8 i have added a hole on the bottom right of the case (when its standing up) for the left z axis motors wires.

Components recommended:

Other Anet A8 Items:

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How do I make this work with the Frame Stabilizer like this:
Any ideas?

Anet A8 Ultimate Frame Stabilizer - HEX REMIX
by AVall20

I have not used that stabilizer. I am currently in the middle of switching to the am8 frame. So i do ot plan to make any more modifications to his case.

That being said.. You can open this up in something like sketchup and edit the body so that there is space for the frame brace to be added to the frame and the case will fit round it.

Just printed and fitted, very nice work! However I am having a "minor" issue... with the case fitted, I have no room for the screws holding the z endstop block... how do you arranged yours?

I didnt think that unfortunately as i have mine setup with an auto level sensor.

That i would suggest it just take a pair of wire cutters and cut the spots for the bolts to pass threw. That part ot covered anyway so you will not see it.

Thats what i do when i need to add a new opening untill i edit ot and print a new one.

I ended up printing a different end stop for the z axis, this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1776429
Much better than the stock system.

BTW I printed both this case and the mosfet case, thank you very much for your designs!

Z Endstop Fine Adjustment Prusa i3 - Anet A8

Sorry for newbie question, but what do you guys manage to print this with? I've tried with ABS, and it keeps warping, even with 80C on bed. I didn't succeed with PLA either, warped as well, so before having another attempt I just wanted to know how it's done.


I printed it in pla with no heat on the bed with blue tape

Thank you, that information helped. I've used heated bed when printing in PLA, now it looks good with no heat and glue on the bed.

can anyone please tell which fan will fit the hole?

For the MP1584EN Step-down converter, can i cut down a micro usb cable and solder to the output and input from the 12V PSU?

cut a usb cable to size and solder the red and black to the output + and -.
then normal power cable going from the psu to the input of the converter.
tho make sure before you connect the pi that you use the screw potentiometer and adjust the vltage to 5v.

I'm currently using a step-down converter to power my pi...

But if I do this, I can't use my pi to shut down the PSU of the printer with the relais (therefore I would need a seperate power source for my pi), right? And just toggling the power of the main board is not the thing I want to achive...

What i had planned was to turn the power on and off by routing the 12v out to the main board. But that was before i started adding mosfets and whatnot. The other way is to just have it powered externally. Then route the 110v line threw the relay then back to the input of the power supply. Then it would kill the power when not in use.

I left it as is so people can do what they want. Like for me right now i dont use the relay since the printer is 5ft from my desk. Lol. So i just power it on and off as needed. And the pi just gets turned off too.

Thanks for the quick reply!
Think I'll go with an external supply for my PI then! ;-)

My plan:

  • Disassembling an old usb charger and supplying the obtained PCB with the 230V (EU) from right behind the printers main switch -> the output / converted 5V will power my PI
  • A parallel wire from the printers main switch will run through the relays and than back to the PSU

any chance you have some instructions on how the relay gets wired up? Also, why two channel vs one..are we turning something other than the printer on/off?

2 because you can wire up lights of you wanted. As for wiring if you go to the one i remixed theres a link there. I forgot to add it to my post

I have the same issue... i didn't find any link! help! Thank you!

OK, Maybe I'm stupid, or just missing it. How are you guys printing this on the Anet A8. The bed is not big enough. I load into Cura, and it will not fit. What gives, I would really like to do this.

Oh, and a VERY nice design.

Check your bed size settings. Make sure its ser to 220x220. This juat bearly fits. Also make sure you donot have brim or raft selected.

Also make sure to print at 100% infill.

This would be perfect if you could find a place for the MOSFET mod ;^)

Nice improvements, I could print this to replace the original from c_wolsey so I can power the PI directly from inside the case.
Are you sure the step down converter you linked is suitable to power a raspberry pi 3? Specs say "Output Current: 1.8 A typical (3.0 Max). " and the Pi 3 needs 2,5A.

id have to unsolder my part to get a readout.. :\
but heres a post on the official page.

their benching has the max draw at less than 1.8A. now it says that it does not take into consideration for additional devices. but since the mainboard is already powered. the only potential other item would be the fan. but considering there would be no peripherals attached or monitor it should be good.

But that being said. if need be i can design a mount for another stepdown at a later point.

Jan 23, 2017 - Modified Jan 23, 2017
papinist - in reply to zadthebad

Thanks for verifying! My only concern is if the power is enough for the Pi to drive the 2-relay board, but looking at the page you linked, I think it would work without issues.

im still waiting for mine to arrive :\

Its been running mine. Ill look at it again when i get home.

Looking great. Loving your improvements to my design.