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GregFrost

Customisable Latching Broom Holder

by GregFrost Jan 12, 2017
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Cant make a custom thing

Same here. Anyone has a solution for this?

Nice design, but what's the purpose of the hinge cones? They don't appear to provide any functionality other than weakening the hinge.

Makes a weak point allowing the hinge to break free from the layer below it so that it actuates properly but also avoids printing in mid air.

anyone else having trouble with the customizer? It seems there is a ASCII/UTF-8 conversion problem (maybe the (C) symbol.)
(OpenSCAD file works fine)

I printed one of the stock ones and it looks great! Going to tweak for some 1" nails I have a bunch of.

As others suggested, I spread some hot inside the "broom hole" to provide a grippy surface and prevent slipping. Worked great.

Printed great with white ABS. Use M3X20 button head bolts for the pins.

Nice design! I printed some of the 14.5mm versions to hold all my daughter's wands. I printed some simple 2mm rods to go with it. made the 2mm rods 20mm long. After inserting into the holes, I flush cut the tips using micro flush cutters. Keeps it all 3D printed. Broom holder works great!

What determines the "gripping" strength of this design? I can get it to hold some things, but the slightest little bump will cause it to slide down or even worse, the latch opens. My printer is calibrated, all the dimensions are square on. I printed in PETG which is a very dimensionally stable filament. It just doesn't "grip" hard enough and seems to come open pretty dang easy. It doesn't seem near as stiff as yours does in the video.

I wouldn’t expect it to grip a smooth rod to prevent it sliding down
You need to either mount it so the broom head rests on the top or the bottom of the handle rests on the ground (as is the case with the pool pole
If the holding strength is insufficient you can print a concave backing and mount that as a spacer
That will allow you to fine tune the grip and hold strength

I appreciate you including the openscad file for easy modifications. Printing now but I'm sure it will turn out great!

printed great on .2mm no support. I used finishing nails for the pins. Thanks for the design, so much neater than using nails to hold them up.

Comments deleted.

Customisable Latching Broom Holder is great, printed it added a twine braid to stop heavy item getting knocked out added to remixes.Thanks for great item.

I Love it, and haven't even printed it yet. I have a device similar in my old lunch pail from working in the factory daze, used it to hang my key ring so they weren't in my pocket while on the production floor.. Been keeping my eye out for just this type of file. My need is to mount these so when I do my Holiday Extravaganza setup I can run temporary cat5 cables through control stations, and then at tear down no more zip ties to cut off as i roll up the wiring. This would really be great if there was a little lip you could pull on to open with a flip of the finger. The lighting community could go nuts over this.. :)

Ok, I have to say this might be the most awesome thing I have ever printed on my Mono Select Mini, it works fantastic. I even had some nails that will work/fit perfect for the pins.

Great work!

This is awesome first time I used/seen the customizer, I'm printing these things for all the garden tools in the shed. Thanks for a well thought out perfectly executed design!

Thumbs up for the desgin! Works fine out of the box.

I use panheads. The $fn=8 for the cylinder to create the counterbore for the panhead makes it very difficult the screw the 2nd panhead in. I propose something like

$fn=mount_screw_counterbore_diameter*6

This way the counterbore becomes a cylinder with ~0.5mm segments.

About to print this out in PLA but I have a question about the parts in the hinges. There is empty gap there, should I use support material there? It seems like it is an overhang, how did this work for you?

Don't know if you printed but no support material needed.

I'm just wonder but instead of using metal pins can you not just print them?

You could if you thought they would be strong enough, but with a metal pin it is pretty much guaranteed to not break.

Plastic hinges are possible, but are probably a bit more bulky than you would want in this application.

I like the idea of a fully print-in-place design too.

Perhaps a cone style hinge would work for this design? If you were to remove the pin holes but leave the conical cuts in the underside faces of the hinges, translate the cut downwards by vertical_clearance and turn it into a solid extrusion on the topside faces. I've seen a few 3D printed designs use this type of hinge and they seem to work quite well.

I tried poking around in the scad file to see if it was possible but I've got very limited experience with it unfortunately.

Anyway, great design. Thanks for sharing!

Something seems off with customizer. The preview is blank for me.

I have just made some updates that improve the performance with customizer. The bottom layer inset is now optional and defaults to off (it uses projection cut and minkowski which are too slow for the customizer).

That looks great, and really useful! Right now pinting a test and most certainly wont be the last :)

Do you plan to enable the thingivese customizer?

Also, Is PLA "springy" enough?

PLA works fine. I tried the customiser but it times out on the preview which limits its utility. It does produce a customised model but it takes about 3 mins. I have enabled the customiser.

I have now improved it so that the first layer inset is disabled by default allowing the customizer to work without timing out.

Some more questions if you don't mind? :)

Why did you decide to have the holes not all the way though?

vertical_clearance is printer layer height + 0.01?

Do you have a rough range how exact the "boom_diameter" has to match the actual broom (o whatever?)

Holes don't go all the way through so that the hinge pin doesn't fall out.

I wanted at least one layer to be skipped. If you make the gap exactly a layer, and the to and bottom layer happen to coincide with sliced height, it might not leave a gap. I guess I could have calculated the height of the gap so that it straddled the sliced height, but you would need to know other slicer parameters such as the first layer height.

For the broom diameter, you can make it exact, or perhaps add 0.2mm. Doesn't really matter. To get the perfect fit, it may depend on how well calibrated your printer is.

Ok, I used M3 screws, so the falling out part didn't occur to me :) , petty obvious though .

I printed a 22mm one, and found that its better to undersize it than oversize it.

I have to say it again, great work with scad, gread model. thanks for sharing!