Crossbones Mask

by meatswets Jan 12, 2017
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What software was this helmet designed with? I normally use Solidworks and I wanted to make a few adjustments to this to get it to how I need it. I was wondering if you could send me a Solidworks compatible file so that I could edit it as needed.

I talked to the creator a while back, its Solidworks

I found an angle at which it takes less filament to print the back portion of the helmet if anybody needs it. It should be properly attached.

I seem to have an issue slicing the top piece. I am using Simplify 3D 4.01 and there are a few missing layers when I slice it.

hello has anyone reworked the files so the helmet is in quarters as they wont fit my print bed as they are can anyone help

If you let me know the size of the bed you have, I could break the model down for ya :)

About how long does it take to print out all of the pieces and is there a way to print some of the pieces together so I don't have to do as much gluing?

Dude... this is badass! I wish this was available Halloween 2016, I was Crossbones and my foam helmet is not the best.

Haha thx Kryptaos! Yeah big part of motivation for making mask model was seeing some of the lesser ones.

When I have enough time after building my Predator suit I will strongly, STRONGLY consider printing this. Two things that I really need to upgrade are my helmet and gauntlets, both are somewhat flimsy.

Hello, I'm pretty new in 3D printing and I would know how much meters of filament it would use to make this mask ? What's the best filament, ABS or PLA ? Thanx for the help. And I'm making a short movie with friends, if we put the credit author on our generic, it's ok for the CC ?

PLA is good for printing good-looking things and ABS is good for printing strong parts.

another good filament is PETG, if you know how to use it

Not sure about how many meters of Filament. What you can do is use a gcode viewer or analyzer (website of the one I use: gcode.ws) and that will tell you pretty accurately how much filament is needed :) I have personally only used PLA but I think the general consensus is that PLA is better for beginners, being more forgiving in terms of proper temp ranges and adhesion and all that good stuff.

About the CC, Yes! Thx for asking about credit. That's really cool. I'd really like to see the mask help you guys with the short movie. If at all possible please comment here when you guys are done with a link or something to the video. Best of luck!

Awesome model, in the process of printing mine now. Will be making a few changes in the coating process and painting it red to make a red hood helmet.

Thanks Dayne427! Please share anything/everything, would love to see! If you'd like the model sliced differently, I'd be happy to oblige :)

Do you think I would be able to print this on a monoprice mini? Build area is (120 x 120 x 120 mm) but I am pretty new to this and I don't really understand how to slice things down.

I was in your place a year ago so I'll give you some solid advice: Download meshmixer or NetFabb basic, both for free, and start learning how to chop up meshes for yourself. It will save you tons of time from having to ask people if stuff fits on your printer, and lets you chop stuff of up the way you desire instead of being dependent on other's takes on a chop.

Offhand I think you'll have some trouble with that small a build area and most masks or helmets unless they're ready-made for print on that small a machine. But, you can easily chop up the existing parts one more time each to make it all doable on your machine.

I should have checked for this update before I hit print overnight :) Well, I'll definitely let you know how the previous version prints! I wound up splitting it into a front and back half for my Ultimaker 2+. Will post the make as soon as done! BTW thanks for the work!

Hey thanks JimmyTime! FYI, I have printed the Mask top right portion and...wow, kinda too thick in the 1-2 o'clock fore-head area...probably overly thick everywhere. I'm planing to revisit the model for some tuning (when I find the time). Also I'd suggest a lower infill as that quarter of the mask took something like 20+ hours and (i'm guesstimating) over a third of my 1kg reel (i was over zealous and infilled @ 20%; way too much!) + a heartbreaking amount of support needed. Probably a much better way to split should be employed but my thoughts were overly focused on aesthetic. (You're my first comment ever! - why I wrote you a novel)

Anyways good luck with your print! Any ideas or suggestions you have I'd welcome.

Ha, don't worry, you wrote back to someone that likes to engage, so you're in luck :)

Yes I did note that it is a bit thick where you pointed out. But, I also tend to like that in the masks. For what I aim for (I intend from the start to paint/sand/prime/finish all my prints), I'd rather have a thicker mask/helmet so I can really lean into it for sanding and it's easier to handle. the Doctor Doom mask on Thingiverse is a great example of a pleasure to work with.

Given that, I'm printing ~15% infill, fast honeycomb, and it's not killing print time. Also I'm trying out 4 outer shells so I have plenty sturdiness to sand. I print at 0.3mm layer height since everything gets painted as well.

You might want to look into Simplify3D if you're frustrated like I was for supports. The granular control it's given me of supports has been my favorite thing since I got it for Christmas. I tend to not care how the finish of the back side of the masks come out, so I have S3D only put supports on the outer perimeter, and let the rest of the inside have sags and bridges that I come through and sand later. It's also helping me cut down print time drastically b/c of ~90% less supports being printed.

One final note for slicing is that I am starting to like the approach of slicing off the detail-centric front face for a single print, then dicing up the remainder as-needed with a little less care. The intent is to preserve all the details where it matters, and put the seams away from front-and-center.

Nice! Thanks for the tips JimmyTime! I will start playing around with different ways of slicing (was thinking a forehead to back-of-jaw diagonal cut would maybe cut down on supports.). Definitely will try more shells, higher layers. S3D I most likely will have to invest in, but later (so broke!)
Let me know what you think about the vertical column I put in the back and the strap strategy in general. I made it thinking an elastic strap would anchor with a loop there and attach to mask by Velcro (also made a recess area on mask cheek for the Velcro). I thought this the best way to go so put on/take off would be easy but I'm 2nd guessing now. Something like snowboard bindings would sure look better but difficult to remove, I think. I might make a hard frame for the elastic to thread through (mainly for looks).

Progress pics

Note - the filled gap is me and my printer's fault, nothing wrong at all with the model. I caught it running out of filament and only missed ~1 line, but it was enough to merit some plaster.




Thanks so much for sharing! Sweet! (So jazzed you're using my model!)

-Is this the V2 or V3 file?
-PLA print, sanded and coated? (what is the plaster?)
-How's the fit/scale? 100% scale right?
-Is that a Batman cowl to the left of last pic?