HTC Vive adapter for welding headgear
by aaronbarker, published
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Summary
I wanted a solution that didn't need additional hardware (bolts/screws) and could be 3d completely 3d printed. This meets that need. No extra hardware required, and can be connected in seconds without tools.
There is one set that are the same size as the original I remixed, and then I found that the length of those caused my headphones not to fit very well. I made a shorter set that have worked well to give more room for the headphones.
Video on how to use it: https://youtu.be/iACFQFvg000
Print Settings
Supports:
Yes
Resolution:
.2mm
Infill:
20
How I Designed This
Took the original file that I remixed into tinkercad and sliced it into the pieces I needed, and then added the new connection
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Just wanted to echo programmerq's comment. The bottom piece is not flat - it looks like the new section that was added to the original model pokes out slightly below the rest of it. This caused some problems for me as my slicer created a raft around that part and then printed the rest outside the raft.
For now I just opened the model in NetFabb and cut off the bottom so that it's flat. Thought you might want to know so you could update it!
Cheers.
Hi, Can't get the Miller here so i bought the 3M Speedglas 9100. Could you give me the cad files so i can adapt them for that model ? will post them afterwards.
I have also found these Earmuffs where you print the parts yourself (https://www.print.plus/diy-headphones-kit/). I will (if I get the step or Solidworks parts) merge it all for my 3M Speedglas 9100 headset. If anyone have the files please mail them to [email protected]
I could maybe do them myself, but if they are fittet it would be a waste og work.
I had some issues getting the short bottom sliced in both slic3r and cura. The bottom of this part isn't perfectly flat. I had to adjust the first layer thickness to be about .23 before it would register as the whole part needing a flat bottom. 0.2mm, 0.21mm, and 0.22mm would have the first layer be partial.
The other problem I had was that slic3r wanted to flatten the whole surface before the tab printed. As a result, the tab being printed on the flat layer would sheer right off with simple handling. I was able to get cura to generate infill that flowed from the main body of the part into the tab (two pass thickness on the shell, 40% infill)
Once printed, it seems to work quite well. I may try the not short version too.
Interesting. I am using s3d and it has worked fine. I have cura as well so will have to give that a try and see if I can reproduce the issues you are seeing. Thanks for the heads up.
I'm looking at doing this with my headset, I know this isn't related to the build but do you have any resources about how to connect the headset to this welding gear? What I'm curious about is how the cables are managed and that center connect is handled.
I haven't found a perfect cable management solution yet. I am actually using the original head mount (the elastic stuff) as the thing that holds the top of the headset to the welding gear, and then running the cable through the supports on that like it normally would go. This allows for some form of cable management, as well as adds padding under that top part so the welding gear doesn't push on the head so hard.
I then use the "arms" of the original headstrap that would go up to connect where these printed parts connect to the headset and wrap them around the sides of the welding gear. It is a bit messy as it is essentially using both headgear, but helps a bit with comfort and cable management. But like I said, it isn't perfect yet. I am on a trip so not able to post a photo of what I am talking about. Will try to do so when I get back.
I know others have run the cables along one of the sides with twist ties or velcro. I tried putting it to the side but didn't like the weight on just one side of the head, so went with the above mass of confusion.
Hope that somewhat helps.
Great job coming up with this screwless solution! For the files, so the bottom parts are interchangeable? For instance, if I were printing the short versions, I would print 2x short bottom, 1x short top left, 1x short top right?
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