Oldham coupler for TEVO Tarantula

by Elzariant Jan 16, 2017
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I printed the parts but the z nut plate (the part that is fixed at the frame) is too thick (6.6mm). The original has ~4.4mm.
When you insert the screws, there is only a few mm left to insert the t-nuts, the screw is only 10mm long. The t-nuts don't turn to thelock position inside the metal structure because of it.
Besides that, the holes to insert the screws are too tight...
The rest is perfect. I'll adjust the mentioned part and print it again to test it.

just wanted to thank and also say how amazingly concise and proffessional the notes are as well, amazing contribution. Do you have any links to posts of pics of how your printer is printing quality wise after all these mods?

Actually, I've designed all the mods in more the spirit of "I can do it" than "I want to improve the quality of my prints"

Wow this is great! worked perfectly the first time and immediately has a drastic improvement on my z-banding issues. Thank you!

You're welcome ;-)

Layer 0.3mm is fine. For all the other settings, that really depends on your printer and filament.

what is the best settings to print the oldham coupler?

In the manual it says that I need two closed loop belts. But I can only see one installed. Where is the second one needed?

That's what we call a typo mistake ;-) I've corrected the manual.

where can i buy the lock collars, 8 mm bore(14x8x7)

do I have to glue the parts?

Do I need the base part or will it work with just the oldham?

No you don't need anything except the oldham coupler itself.

My 3 parts go together in a very tight press fit... they are supposed to slide smoothly on each other, right?

why didn't you put in holes for screwing these brackets into a desk?

I've installed this on my tarantula, and it looks fine (see in the made section). However, now all my prints are 1-1.5mm shorter. always missing that height at the bottom. Any idea?

Hi, recalibrate printer bed and nozzle. This is called elephant foot effect. I have experienced this many times.make sure the 1st layer is thick enough and can stick on the bed. Or check your bed temperature.

So question.. does eliminating the wobble also remove the z-banding?

Comments deleted.

Is it just me or are the four holes in the bottom part a tad too big? Seems like a M3.5 screw would be just the right size to have the screws actually "grip" to the material. All the other dimensions of the printed parts seems to be correct.

I've corrected the 3rd part by adding clearance for M3 nuts.

You could have made it simpler and even better by doing as I did on my Geetech Al. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1830451
The X gantry must hang from the leadscrews/top bearing, and NO bearing at the bottom. Therefore the leadscrews will only exerts an up force on the gantry. By attaching the top and bottom of the leadscrew unless the leadscrews and Z rail are perfectly // (good luck to achieve that with this kind of machine) the leadscrews will exert a radial force that is in the X-Y plane.
Even if the leadscrews are bent, the radial force will be far less and should be contained by the Z rails.
A simple application of isostatism

Anyway, what you did is a big improvement compared to two Z motors and leadscrews which is a major design error plaguing the Prusa and repeated over and over except in the new Tevo Black Widow.

Prusa Z axis, so many problems yet one simple solution !